puglia/basilicata 9 day itinerary - too little time?
Jun 10th, 2013, 07:05 PM
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puglia/basilicata 9 day itinerary - too little time?
We have 9 days/8 nights between arriving in Bari (from Croatia) and needing to be in Rome. This will be in Sept/Oct 2013. We plan to get a car.
Our proposed itinerary is:
2 nights Cisternino area -for exploring Val d'Itria, Alberobello, Locorotondo etc
2 nights Galatina area - for exploring the Salento and Lecce
2 nights Matera - maybe do sidetrip to Pietrapertosa to see Piccoli Appenini di Lucano
2 nights Acquafredda di Maratea - to see the dramatic coastline and if possible do some swimming
last day: big drive from Maratea to Rome on autostrada (via Michelin says ~5hrs)
We have read several of the trip reports from Franco and Ekscrunchy - lots of info thank you! - and realise that we are planning to cover a lot of ground. Are we crazy? BTW we have driven in Italy many times before (but up north) and speak a bit of Italian.
Also not sure of the best route between Matera and Acquafredda di Maratea, it looks like we may have to go south before heading west to the Tyrrhenian coast. Any ideas here?
We want to have a mix of seeing the sights in the towns/cities and enjoying the scenery of the coast and inland. This current itinerary is hedging our bets somewhat as we don't know what the weather will be like. If the weather is warm we'll most likely do hikes and swimming but if it's cool/wet we want to be near towns where we can visit churches and admire the architecture.
This plan is more rushed than our usual pace but there seems to be so many wonderful places to see down south and we don't know when we can get back. We would appreciate any suggestions or tips for this itinerary from you wonderful Fodorites with your wealth of experience.
Our proposed itinerary is:
2 nights Cisternino area -for exploring Val d'Itria, Alberobello, Locorotondo etc
2 nights Galatina area - for exploring the Salento and Lecce
2 nights Matera - maybe do sidetrip to Pietrapertosa to see Piccoli Appenini di Lucano
2 nights Acquafredda di Maratea - to see the dramatic coastline and if possible do some swimming
last day: big drive from Maratea to Rome on autostrada (via Michelin says ~5hrs)
We have read several of the trip reports from Franco and Ekscrunchy - lots of info thank you! - and realise that we are planning to cover a lot of ground. Are we crazy? BTW we have driven in Italy many times before (but up north) and speak a bit of Italian.
Also not sure of the best route between Matera and Acquafredda di Maratea, it looks like we may have to go south before heading west to the Tyrrhenian coast. Any ideas here?
We want to have a mix of seeing the sights in the towns/cities and enjoying the scenery of the coast and inland. This current itinerary is hedging our bets somewhat as we don't know what the weather will be like. If the weather is warm we'll most likely do hikes and swimming but if it's cool/wet we want to be near towns where we can visit churches and admire the architecture.
This plan is more rushed than our usual pace but there seems to be so many wonderful places to see down south and we don't know when we can get back. We would appreciate any suggestions or tips for this itinerary from you wonderful Fodorites with your wealth of experience.
Jun 10th, 2013, 07:44 PM
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cmb: I don't have much to offer, because I've only been to Matera, which I loved.
However, we are also planning a 9 day trip to Italy, with 4 stops. Like you, this is not our general style. Also like you, we're comfortable in Italy and have driven (and taken trains) many times.
We're covering short distances by direct train and car, and we are excited about it.
I'm thinking if we don't like moving so much, we just won't do it again. But why not try it if it sounds like fun? I'm thinking of it as a road trip with very cool stops.
However, we are also planning a 9 day trip to Italy, with 4 stops. Like you, this is not our general style. Also like you, we're comfortable in Italy and have driven (and taken trains) many times.
We're covering short distances by direct train and car, and we are excited about it.
I'm thinking if we don't like moving so much, we just won't do it again. But why not try it if it sounds like fun? I'm thinking of it as a road trip with very cool stops.
Jun 10th, 2013, 08:30 PM
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Glad to hear that Matera gets the thumbs up and that you're also planning a similar style of trip. I love the concept of "a road trip with very cool stops" and will definitely use it. We're excited too. Recession and all, it's still La Bella Italia!
Jun 10th, 2013, 09:09 PM
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we were in all those areas just over a year ago. i think it's do-able... but it will indeed be pretty rushed. in particular, there is just no easy and quick way to get to matera. also, we found the driving in the salento to be pretty easy-- but we were there before tourist season. (april-may) . we often commented that, with many shops closed and empty parking lots near the water, the roads must be completely different during high season. so it may be quite slow getting around.
still-- you won't be sorry to spend time there. it's just fantastic. link to my post if you want any other recommendations... we had the most amazing trip!
still-- you won't be sorry to spend time there. it's just fantastic. link to my post if you want any other recommendations... we had the most amazing trip!
Jun 11th, 2013, 10:47 PM
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kawh: have found your trip report and it's fantastic. Have bookmarked to mull over. I was hoping that late September early October would be out of season but hotel prices indicate it's at least mid-season so maybe traffic will be slow.
Should I cut the west coast/maratea from the mix and spend a day extra in puglia....if so, we could pick up and drop off hire car in bari and take train back to rome - less stress. But is the Basilicata coastline around Maratea unmissable?
Should I cut the west coast/maratea from the mix and spend a day extra in puglia....if so, we could pick up and drop off hire car in bari and take train back to rome - less stress. But is the Basilicata coastline around Maratea unmissable?
Jun 11th, 2013, 11:35 PM
#6
There is the fine greek temple on the coast at Maratea but the beech is nothing to write home about. I think its more like a 4 hour stop over.
You have missed out Gravina with their underground temples
You have missed out Gravina with their underground temples
Jun 12th, 2013, 01:20 AM
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We spent 7 nights in Puglia last June, here is our trip report:
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...m#last-comment
Driving on the highways was fine, it was driving in the towns where it was a bit crazy!
The only thing about a quick trip through Puglia is that the towns seriously close up for most of the afternoon. Like 12 - 4 they will be shut up tight so you will need to plan for that. Unless you go somewhere really touristy like Alberobello.
Enjoy!
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...m#last-comment
Driving on the highways was fine, it was driving in the towns where it was a bit crazy!
The only thing about a quick trip through Puglia is that the towns seriously close up for most of the afternoon. Like 12 - 4 they will be shut up tight so you will need to plan for that. Unless you go somewhere really touristy like Alberobello.
Enjoy!
Jun 12th, 2013, 03:47 AM
#8
as Jamikins says
I found the odd thing about a lot of the towns is that many are surrounded by horrible 1960s concrete communist type structures, but as you get into the middle you suddenly slip through a time warp and find a 1700s town centre with marble pavements and ancient duomo.
We even found a 1100s Norman castle built into a town centre with shops built up against it, so take a big breath and battle you way into them. Even Taranto on its central island, on the spine of the island and on the inland sea side of the island you come across a roman fountain (being used to support a fish market) and buildings that could have come out of Damascus, dirty (for sure) but holding so much history.
I found the odd thing about a lot of the towns is that many are surrounded by horrible 1960s concrete communist type structures, but as you get into the middle you suddenly slip through a time warp and find a 1700s town centre with marble pavements and ancient duomo.
We even found a 1100s Norman castle built into a town centre with shops built up against it, so take a big breath and battle you way into them. Even Taranto on its central island, on the spine of the island and on the inland sea side of the island you come across a roman fountain (being used to support a fish market) and buildings that could have come out of Damascus, dirty (for sure) but holding so much history.
Jun 12th, 2013, 05:32 AM
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Jamikins: I read your trip report - haven't laughed so much in ages! But it also gives a great feel for what's in store. Puglia sounds a bit like driving in Sicily and I know what you mean about towns shutting down for the afternoon - I'd just forgotten so will have to factor that in. Great photos too - but where is the guy in the orange shirt from the cruise ship tour?? I can't stand cruise ship tour groups either - move in mass and so frustrating.
Bilboburgler: interesting comments on the juxtaposition of beautiful old town centres surrounded by hideous modern buildings. I think it was Franco in his TR of Puglia where he even found a town where the food and the waiter's suit came from 1960's Bulgaria!
Where's the Gravina with underground temples? Is that in Matera?
It was actually Franco's TR that gave me the idea of Maratea/Acquafredda - it just looks so picturesque. We do love scenic coastal roads with high mountains coming down to the sea, which the Amalfi Coast has of course, but the number of people there these days is getting insane! Perhaps Maratea is going the same way?
Looked at train times from Bari to Rome and think none of them really suit our purposes so am sticking with plan A at this stage - perhaps reducing the last stop to one night - tho not a fan of one night stops.
Bilboburgler: interesting comments on the juxtaposition of beautiful old town centres surrounded by hideous modern buildings. I think it was Franco in his TR of Puglia where he even found a town where the food and the waiter's suit came from 1960's Bulgaria!
Where's the Gravina with underground temples? Is that in Matera?
It was actually Franco's TR that gave me the idea of Maratea/Acquafredda - it just looks so picturesque. We do love scenic coastal roads with high mountains coming down to the sea, which the Amalfi Coast has of course, but the number of people there these days is getting insane! Perhaps Maratea is going the same way?
Looked at train times from Bari to Rome and think none of them really suit our purposes so am sticking with plan A at this stage - perhaps reducing the last stop to one night - tho not a fan of one night stops.
Jun 12th, 2013, 10:27 AM
#10
Gravina, half way between Potenza and Bari
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gravina_in_Puglia
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gravina_in_Puglia
Jun 12th, 2013, 10:30 AM
#11
wow, I've just remembered two other things about Puglia,
1) The towns have strange brass maps (big, 2 metres x 2 metres) completely useless, never found anything on them
2) Tourist Information is normally placed in the cheapest building that is central to each town but has no business to fit in, so the d@@n things move every year and are a real battle to find.
So if you need local maps assume you are going to get nothing from local TI and then, if you do, it's a bonus
1) The towns have strange brass maps (big, 2 metres x 2 metres) completely useless, never found anything on them
2) Tourist Information is normally placed in the cheapest building that is central to each town but has no business to fit in, so the d@@n things move every year and are a real battle to find.
So if you need local maps assume you are going to get nothing from local TI and then, if you do, it's a bonus
Jun 12th, 2013, 09:31 PM
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thanks bilboburgler for the tips on town maps. sounds more and more like sicily. tourist information was never open - well not when we were there - and this was before satnav/gps so it was pretty tricky at times. i remember following signs for Noto's "centro" round and round for ages and having our first Big Argument. I do love having good maps and we had crap ones. yes - a woman who can read maps!
checked out gravina in puglia - looks amazing. found this link: http://www.italiavirtualtour.it/dettaglio.php?id=94709
but seeing as we'll be on a tight on time, maybe it's too similar to matera?
anyway more grist for the mill...
checked out gravina in puglia - looks amazing. found this link: http://www.italiavirtualtour.it/dettaglio.php?id=94709
but seeing as we'll be on a tight on time, maybe it's too similar to matera?
anyway more grist for the mill...
Jun 13th, 2013, 12:28 PM
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I think you are adding too many places. I would skip Lecce and the Salento and leave it for your next trip to Puglia. Add one night in Cisternino and one in Matera. From Matera you will have time to see Cracco, Bernalda, Pisticci, Ssenise etc.
I spent time in Maratea about two years ago (coupled with norothern Calabria and Cilento, and amalfi Coast)...gorgeous place, but unless you love the beach you can see the town in one night....beaches near there are marvelous!
I spent time in Maratea about two years ago (coupled with norothern Calabria and Cilento, and amalfi Coast)...gorgeous place, but unless you love the beach you can see the town in one night....beaches near there are marvelous!
Jun 13th, 2013, 02:37 PM
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Hey,CM.
My wife and I just returned from a two week trip around Puglia at the end of May. We dipped over to Matera for a couple of days, but that's as far west as we went. Our boundaries were Trani to the north and Matera to the west. We went all of the way down south to the tip of the heel. We had a terrific time. I am preparing to post a trip report soon. Feel free to ask me any specifics in the mean time. Happy planning!
Robbie
My wife and I just returned from a two week trip around Puglia at the end of May. We dipped over to Matera for a couple of days, but that's as far west as we went. Our boundaries were Trani to the north and Matera to the west. We went all of the way down south to the tip of the heel. We had a terrific time. I am preparing to post a trip report soon. Feel free to ask me any specifics in the mean time. Happy planning!
Robbie
Jun 13th, 2013, 09:50 PM
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thanks for all your responses and help!
ekscrunchy: we're planning to stay in acquafredda di maratea, at la casa di gelso b&b. really torn about not going down to lecce/salento. if anything i would consider cutting maratea but thought it would break up the journey north to rome.
robbie: did you base yourselves in one place or several as you travelled through puglia? how is the driving down to the tip of the heel? i'm trying to imagine what the landscape is like down there. not only if it's scenic but if it's very hilly and therefore takes time to get from place to place. i await your trip report with anticipation.
ekscrunchy: we're planning to stay in acquafredda di maratea, at la casa di gelso b&b. really torn about not going down to lecce/salento. if anything i would consider cutting maratea but thought it would break up the journey north to rome.
robbie: did you base yourselves in one place or several as you travelled through puglia? how is the driving down to the tip of the heel? i'm trying to imagine what the landscape is like down there. not only if it's scenic but if it's very hilly and therefore takes time to get from place to place. i await your trip report with anticipation.
Jun 15th, 2013, 03:18 AM
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Hey, CM.
On this trip we decided to jump around hotel-wise. We spent one or two nights in eight different hotels. We enjoyed it, although we did say that a two night minimum would have been better/easier.
Driving all over Puglia was very pleasant. When you get up into some of the old towns of course it's going to get tight street-wise. You learn early on and park accordingly when you arrive in towns. The day we drove to the tip, we started in Otranto and drove south along the coastal road hitting neat little Towns along the way. The views are absolutely gorgeous! High, high cliffs overlooking the blue Adriatic. The coastal road was two lanes, easy driving, especially since we saw very few other cars. FYI, we had a navigation system/GPS in the rental car. It made the trip so much easier. We were really glad to have it.
Still working on the TR. Real work keeps getting in the way! I'll hopefully post it soon.
Robbie
On this trip we decided to jump around hotel-wise. We spent one or two nights in eight different hotels. We enjoyed it, although we did say that a two night minimum would have been better/easier.
Driving all over Puglia was very pleasant. When you get up into some of the old towns of course it's going to get tight street-wise. You learn early on and park accordingly when you arrive in towns. The day we drove to the tip, we started in Otranto and drove south along the coastal road hitting neat little Towns along the way. The views are absolutely gorgeous! High, high cliffs overlooking the blue Adriatic. The coastal road was two lanes, easy driving, especially since we saw very few other cars. FYI, we had a navigation system/GPS in the rental car. It made the trip so much easier. We were really glad to have it.
Still working on the TR. Real work keeps getting in the way! I'll hopefully post it soon.
Robbie
Jun 15th, 2013, 05:32 AM
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I, for one, shall be eagerly looking forward to your trip report, Robbie. We will be in Puglia next year for about 9-10 days, arriving in Brindisi and leaving from Bari. We will only go as far as Matera.
