One more Dordogne Itinerary - day by day
Mar 5th, 2011, 04:16 PM
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 412
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
One more Dordogne Itinerary - day by day
Can you please help with another Dordogne itinerary? We will be spending two nights in Toulouse, two at Domaine de la Rhue, and then 6 nights in Sarlat. I received my maps from Amazon, I have Stu's itinerary, and I have read a zillion posts/trip reports on this area. My main question is: the places I have scheduled for Sunday and Monday...will they work? I am assuming these places are so small, that the focus is the scenery and not the shopping. So, I hope that these will work on the days I have worked out. We will arrive in Sarlat late Friday afternoon.
Saturday: Morning market in Sarlat. Ch. de Castlenaud. Ch. des Milandes w/ birds of prey show. La Roque Gageac with gabarre trip.
Sunday: Font de Gaume. I have tickets reserved for 11:00 a.m. but have not had to pay for them yet. Musee at Les Eyzies. La Roque St. Christophe. Maison Forte Reignac. St. Leon sur Vezere.
Monday: Lascaux II. St. Amand de Coly, St. Genies, Lacypierre, St. Crepin et Carlucet. Jardins d'Eyrignac.
Tuesday: Domme. Ch. de Beynac. Montpazier.
Wednesday: Morning market in Sarlat. Jardins de Marqueyssac. (I know! Be there by 11:30!!) Perhaps Hautfort.
Thursday: Head to Brive for train and 4 nights in Paris.
Does this plan make sense? I will gladly make any changes if you think I need them.
By the way, this part of our trip is September 9 - 15th.
Thank you so much!
Saturday: Morning market in Sarlat. Ch. de Castlenaud. Ch. des Milandes w/ birds of prey show. La Roque Gageac with gabarre trip.
Sunday: Font de Gaume. I have tickets reserved for 11:00 a.m. but have not had to pay for them yet. Musee at Les Eyzies. La Roque St. Christophe. Maison Forte Reignac. St. Leon sur Vezere.
Monday: Lascaux II. St. Amand de Coly, St. Genies, Lacypierre, St. Crepin et Carlucet. Jardins d'Eyrignac.
Tuesday: Domme. Ch. de Beynac. Montpazier.
Wednesday: Morning market in Sarlat. Jardins de Marqueyssac. (I know! Be there by 11:30!!) Perhaps Hautfort.
Thursday: Head to Brive for train and 4 nights in Paris.
Does this plan make sense? I will gladly make any changes if you think I need them.
By the way, this part of our trip is September 9 - 15th.
Thank you so much!
Mar 5th, 2011, 04:32 PM
#3
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 16,434
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
One more thought. I would return to Sarlat some other time (early evening - before dinner), so you can experience Sarlat without the market(s). I find the market "scene" to be distracting.
Stu Dudley
Stu Dudley
Mar 5th, 2011, 04:47 PM
#4
Original Poster
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 412
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks, Stu! You are so kind to share your expertise with us. I think you are right - I will be surprised if we do stay for the Wed morning market. We are staying at Les Cordeliers in Sarlat, so will have the evenings to enjoy the buildings without the market to distract our eyes. I wonder if it will be easy to get out of town Wednesday morning with the market going on...?? Hmmm...
Mar 5th, 2011, 06:56 PM
#6
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,214
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
We stayed in Sarlat several years ago, and I don't recall it being difficult to leave Sarlat on Wednesday morning (we weren't there on Saturday).
Your Saturday seems a bit busy. How long do you expect the gabarre trip to take? You may not be able to fit in all that you have in mind for that day. Also, check on the times for the falconry show, to make sure you don't miss them. When we were there, the show was in French. They did hand us printed scripts, and I understand enough French to generally follow, so it worked ok for us. It was fun - much better than birds of prey shows in the U.S., in that the bird lands on people's heads, etc.
Also, we planned a picnic for the day that we visited the Wednesday market. Of course, we couldn't resist, and bought enough food for lunch that day, and for plenty of snacks and for the train ride to Paris several days later.
DO NOT miss buying the chocolate-covered walnuts in Sarlat - we bought them at the market, but they might have been available other times. It's more like the walnuts are dusted with chocolate, so you still get the walnut flavor. They are one of the very few items that I haven't been able to find in the U.S.
Confirm the hours of the museum in les Eyzies; I only remember that we mis-timed things so that we were in town when it was closed.
Font du Gaume was amazing - we've taken that tour twice now.
A chateau (castle) that we really enjoyed, though it doesn't seem to be high on most lists, was Chateau Commarque. It's older, and more ruinous, but has some unique features; google it for more info.
Your Saturday seems a bit busy. How long do you expect the gabarre trip to take? You may not be able to fit in all that you have in mind for that day. Also, check on the times for the falconry show, to make sure you don't miss them. When we were there, the show was in French. They did hand us printed scripts, and I understand enough French to generally follow, so it worked ok for us. It was fun - much better than birds of prey shows in the U.S., in that the bird lands on people's heads, etc.
Also, we planned a picnic for the day that we visited the Wednesday market. Of course, we couldn't resist, and bought enough food for lunch that day, and for plenty of snacks and for the train ride to Paris several days later.
DO NOT miss buying the chocolate-covered walnuts in Sarlat - we bought them at the market, but they might have been available other times. It's more like the walnuts are dusted with chocolate, so you still get the walnut flavor. They are one of the very few items that I haven't been able to find in the U.S.
Confirm the hours of the museum in les Eyzies; I only remember that we mis-timed things so that we were in town when it was closed.
Font du Gaume was amazing - we've taken that tour twice now.
A chateau (castle) that we really enjoyed, though it doesn't seem to be high on most lists, was Chateau Commarque. It's older, and more ruinous, but has some unique features; google it for more info.
Mar 6th, 2011, 07:49 AM
#9
Original Poster
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 412
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks, Stu, St. Cirq, Lexma and Pavot. We will keep our plan as is. If something does not get checked off our list, we will just have to try again another year! I did look up the Chateau Commarque. Thank you! It does look interesting! I have been reading the Hennry II and Eleanor of Aquitaine trilogy by Sharon Penman. The books have really piqued my interest in castles. If anyone is interested, the books are: When Christ and his Angels Slept, Time and Chance, and Devil's Brood. They read like Ken Follet books. Hard to put down!
And I will certainly be on the lookout for the chocolate covered walnuts. We have black walnut trees in our yard. I only consider the walnuts a nuisance! It will be fun to try the walnut products in France.
I will be back later with a new post asking for help figuring out my time frame for Toulouse to Albi to Rocamadour area.
Thanks again for the help!
Rosemary
And I will certainly be on the lookout for the chocolate covered walnuts. We have black walnut trees in our yard. I only consider the walnuts a nuisance! It will be fun to try the walnut products in France.
I will be back later with a new post asking for help figuring out my time frame for Toulouse to Albi to Rocamadour area.
Thanks again for the help!
Rosemary
Mar 6th, 2011, 08:01 AM
#10
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 49,560
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The chocolate-dusted walnuts are everywhere, including in the grocery stores and every culinary specialty shop and chocolatier. Shouldn't be a problem finding them.
Actually, they have them here in my neighborhood deli in DC!
Actually, they have them here in my neighborhood deli in DC!
Mar 29th, 2011, 07:08 PM
#13
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,049
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Nevermind, Kansas. I just discovered the answer to my question in another post wherein bon_voyage talked about, "The little road to St-Crépin-et-Carlucet: Near the intersection of the D60 (the road to Salignac-Eyvigues) and Le Poujol, this tiny road takes you past the Sleeping Beauty chateau, Lacypierre. . . It may be open for tours. Check out its utterly charming bread oven. Keep going and you will get to the village of Carlucet. The Perigord Noir section of the Michelin guide has some details about this little area."
I think I might check that out, too. I have the GG, but must have missed that!
I think I might check that out, too. I have the GG, but must have missed that!
Mar 30th, 2011, 07:14 AM
#14
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,707
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
St Crepin is a petit bijou - a little jewel. If you manage to go, park your car at the top of the hill, just after turning off the main road from Salignac, and walk down - it's worth it to see the chateau nestled into the hillside.
Usually open for tours in French only. Mme LeBon, the owner, takes people through herself, and as the restoration was a work of love with her husband, it takes at least 1 1/2 hours. Fascinating, but depends how much time (and how much French) you have.
Otherwise, there is usually a display in the downstairs entrance - the exterior of the chateau is open, and you can walk across the lawn, and check out the photos of what it was like when they started - tower falling down, stream going underneath, and chickens in the main room
One of the most interesting things is the kitchen they built, after years of cooking over a camp stove (they did also own the Hotel Couleuvrine in Sarlat, so no need to feel TOO sorry for them) She wanted a modern kitchen for once in her life, but neither of them wanted it to look out of place. So a modern, all white kitchen has been hidden behind panelling, disguised as an old fashioned built-in bed. Quite stunning.
Exterior panorama http://www.perigords.fr/panoramas/F-...acypierre.html
The church next door is also very attractive.
Usually open for tours in French only. Mme LeBon, the owner, takes people through herself, and as the restoration was a work of love with her husband, it takes at least 1 1/2 hours. Fascinating, but depends how much time (and how much French) you have.
Otherwise, there is usually a display in the downstairs entrance - the exterior of the chateau is open, and you can walk across the lawn, and check out the photos of what it was like when they started - tower falling down, stream going underneath, and chickens in the main room
One of the most interesting things is the kitchen they built, after years of cooking over a camp stove (they did also own the Hotel Couleuvrine in Sarlat, so no need to feel TOO sorry for them) She wanted a modern kitchen for once in her life, but neither of them wanted it to look out of place. So a modern, all white kitchen has been hidden behind panelling, disguised as an old fashioned built-in bed. Quite stunning.
Exterior panorama http://www.perigords.fr/panoramas/F-...acypierre.html
The church next door is also very attractive.
Mar 30th, 2011, 09:17 AM
#16
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 16,434
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
>>Oh swell. Another entry for my bulging list of sights to see<<<
This is why I tell first-timers who want to spend 2-3 days in Burgundy, 2-3 days in Provence, 2-3 days in the Dordogne, and 2-3 days in the Loire, etc to SLOW DOWN. Spend more time in fewer locations. Most Americans are not accustomed to going to a single region with 2 weeks of "neat" things to do & see - at least I wasn't on my first 4-6 trips to Europe.
On a 2 week trip, I would much rathar just stay in the Dordogne (or other region) and visit 20 A+ sites, than wast 4 days in travel and only be able to see 3 A+ sites in 4 different areas.
Stu Dudley
This is why I tell first-timers who want to spend 2-3 days in Burgundy, 2-3 days in Provence, 2-3 days in the Dordogne, and 2-3 days in the Loire, etc to SLOW DOWN. Spend more time in fewer locations. Most Americans are not accustomed to going to a single region with 2 weeks of "neat" things to do & see - at least I wasn't on my first 4-6 trips to Europe.
On a 2 week trip, I would much rathar just stay in the Dordogne (or other region) and visit 20 A+ sites, than wast 4 days in travel and only be able to see 3 A+ sites in 4 different areas.
Stu Dudley
Apr 1st, 2011, 01:28 AM
#18
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,707
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well, Carlux is a nice place too - we have a 12th century chateau currently under restoration - probably for the next 100 years!
http://www.perigordcarluxais-fenelon.com/59,carlux.html
Our association supporting the chateau has a blog with photos of the work
http://lesamisdecarlux.over-blog.com/
And, particularly if you are here in the spring, the Jardins de Cadiot are very nice:
http://www.best-of-perigord.tm.fr/si.../cadiotuk.html
http://www.perigordcarluxais-fenelon.com/59,carlux.html
Our association supporting the chateau has a blog with photos of the work
http://lesamisdecarlux.over-blog.com/
And, particularly if you are here in the spring, the Jardins de Cadiot are very nice:
http://www.best-of-perigord.tm.fr/si.../cadiotuk.html
Apr 2nd, 2011, 12:46 PM
#19
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 4,571
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Love this post. Inspired to write NOW to the Font de Game site for reservations. We 're going in late May. Already know for sure that 5 days in Sarlat (our base) wil not be enough time, alas.
Thank you for all who respond.
Thank you for all who respond.
