Just found your report. Sounds wonderful! I went with my sisters, sans husbands, in July. It was fun but I did miss mine.

I would really love to do a solo trip..but the DH would never let me.he loves Paris as much as I do!

But I may try to book him a trip to Costa Rico or the Yucatan to fish while I go off on my own!!

We too love Michael and can't wait to see him again in October!

Isabel. My trip to Prague was also a "solo" one - it was marvelous!

Next installment --

Friday - I awoke to rain, real rain (I'm from So. Cal.), so I decided to stay in bed a while. I opened my windows, ordered breakfast to my room, and relaxed. No kids to feed, no dogs to walk... you get the picture!

Breakfast, for 12 E, was a 1/2 glass of fresh o.j., a croissant, 2 rolls, butter, jam, honey, yogurt, and a pot of mediocre coffee. I won't be doing that again!

By 11:30, I was off. Today was my day to seriously explore Le Marais, and do some shopping. I had a ball! But first, I had to check out a Monoprix, which I hear so much about on Fodors. What a great store! Practically everything one might need, for any purpose! For anyone looking to save costs on meals in Paris, I'd eat here, at least part of the time. They appear to have a wide variety of fresh items to take away, as well as a nice little cafe.

For those unfamiliar with Monoprix, it is a combination of many stores in one. At this location, a supermarket was on the ground floor. I got such a kick out of watching a very well dressed, middle aged woman, go through the check out line with her groceries, while her little dog simply sat at her feet, waiting patiently for her to finish. How do they get their animals to do that? Mine would be deported!

After a leisurely stroll from "my" neighbood to Le Marais, I weaved my way in and out of the narrow streets, taking in tons of boutique type shops, selling everything from "bricolage" (my new favorite word!) to shoes to jewelry. Well, I didn't do as much damage as I thought I would. I purchased some silver and enamel jewelry as birthday gifts at Cecile et Jeanne.

I took in the free Musee Carnavalet, which is the museum of the history of Paris. Very beautiful, but a bit overwhelming to me without any English description of what I was seeing.

Back to the Place des Vosges, which was so different today, a rainy day, than a few days ago in the sunshine. Fewer people were there, and the clouds and shadows gave the park a diffferent feel. More romantic, perhaps?

It began to drizzle, so it was time for lunch! I made my way to rue des Rosiers, in the old Jewish neighborhood, and peeked into each storefront to sample the aromas! Although so tempted by what looked like potato knishes (I'm originally from N.Y.), I settled on a tiny falafel house, where it seemed everyone else was, and ordered their "special". It was a falafel in pita with cabbage and eggplant. It cost 6E, but, if you took it to go from their take out window, it was only 4E.

I'll be honest. At this point, I'm drawing a complete blank on the rest of my day. My evening, however, is another story. I got all dressed up and set off, without any reservations, walking along the Seine, past Notre Dame, to the Isle St. Louis. Although the stores were closed, I carefully peeked into every store window and each restaurant on rue St. Louis en L'Isle. I chose well!

I ate that evening at a tiny restaurant called Le Caveau de L'Isle. Only 9 tables, stone walls, candles... really nice and very quaint. For 37E, I had escargot with a glass of sauvignon blanc, really good lamb chops with a glass of bordeaux, creme brulee and coffee. For service, food and atmosphere, I give this restaurant an A.

While I was there, an older American couple came in. The woman was politely trying her best to speak basic French, but with a real LOUD Southern (American)accent. She was a hoot! When her entree arrived, she was enjoying it so much, it sounded as though she was making love to it! All 9 tables got a kick out of her!

It was now late and time to make my way home. While crossing a bridge, I was positively stopped in my tracks by the most beautiful sight I'll never forget. There was a huge full moon in the clear night sky, shining on the river, lighting up the city. It was really something to see. Of course, to lighten my load, I had taken my camera out of my purse that night. That sight was never to be seen again for the duration of my stay.

For those who wonder if seeing such a romantic sight alone loses something, I will tell you that at that moment, I was not alone. A Parisien "boy" in his 20's stopped to talk and admire the view with me. I had to giggle, but what an ego boost!

Hi Irego, it is great to read your reports as we were at Le Regent at almost the same time but for a weekend at the end of August. I agree with you about the pleasure in writing a report as it enables you to relive the memory. I'm continuing with mine and look forward to your next installment. By the way I had the same meal as you at L'Entrecote, but I guess that's not difficult!!!
Hoggy

Iregeo, Mazel Tov on the job!

You'll be a wonderful teacher (you already are) -- your joy of life shines throughout your report which is a much needed and fun distraction at this sad time. So again, MERCI.

Iregeo, your time in Paris sounds wonderful. I have only recently discovered the joy of travelline alone.

Loveitaly - it was you who helped enormously to give me the courage to travel to Italy by myself!! I did, and it was wonderful, wonderful!! I feel Paris is even easier because most Parisians speak English! I know what being 'snowed under' feels like and my recent travels were the result of a need to escape. The first step is to book a flight and then make it happen!
You obviously have a love of people - that is what it is mainly about isnt it?
When you come back, the problems are still all there but YOU are never the same again!!

Thanks, mvor, for your well wishes. I'm excited about my new career!

hoggy, I've been following your report (when you're not eating dinner!) Weren't Sandrine and Elias at Le Regent great?

Em Bee, you hit it on the nose with LoveItaly. Obviously, she is a people person, and we both know she'd do great in Paris. Love Italy, if you insist on not travelling alone, I guess I could suffer through a trip to Paris with you! Say the word and we're out of here!

Two days left to report on, but I haven't felt like it. Between our country's increasing disaster and my continuing Paris withdrawl, I'm so sad. ANYONE WITH ADVICE ABOUT GETTING OVER THE POST TRIP BLUES, PLEASE SPEAK UP.

Maybe writing about it will help, so here goes.

Saturday -- BIG walking day, as time is running out. From my hotel, I walked to Deux Magots for coffee, coissant, and people watching, then on to St. Sulpice and its square. Loved watching 2 little ones chasing pigeons around the fountain!

Next stop was the Luxembourg Gardens, where I spent a few hours. I've been here before, but what a pleasure it is on a Saturday morning! So full of life! Tons of joggers, children, people reading, chatting, or simply sitting in the sun.

I made my way all through the park. I was disappointed that I couldn't take in a marionette show, but they did have a beautiful, free art exhibition of color, close up photography of interesting flowers.

Oh Irego and Embee, I am speechless from both of your post. And believe me, family and dear friends do not often find me speechless, LOL.

Yes I do love people, good people, and there are so many good people here on Fodors. Sometimes I am overwhelmed by the kindness and love that most people here on Fodor's express.

Embee, if I in any way contributed to your enjoyment of Italy that gives me great joy. You know how I love Italy, and I still wish I had my DH to go to Italy with, but I will say that I still enjoy going there. Basically because of the Italian people. The cities, the country, the lakes the mountains, the seashore are all so beautiful but the hearts and kindness of the people in Italy have always touched me from the time I was a baby.

And Irego, go to Paris with you? Well I think you know the ansewer to that question. I have read, and reread your thread and I have to say words cannot explain how much I have enjoyed your trip report. And yes, I do want to go to Paris.

Will sign off now because you both have me a bit teary to tell you the truth. Hugs to both of you.

Oops! Wrong button.

Another favorite of mine is watching the little ones sail their wooden boats in the fountain, pushing them along with their sticks. Such simple pleasures!

Ready to move on, window shopping my way from the 6th into the 7th. I was looking for gifts to bring home for my family, when a fabulous pashmina spoke to me through a storefront window. I tried it on, but couldn't bring myself to buy it (I was the one on the trip; did I really deserve a "souvenir"?) Well, lunch of souffles at La Cigale Recamier and 2 glasses of wine later, the answer was yes! It really is beautiful and yes, I deserve it!

I digress to a funny story from lunch. As I've said before, I love this restaurant, even though I find the service terribly snooty. Anyway, I didn't like the first table I was offered outdoors, so I asked to move indoors. They obliged, seating me at a nice table set for 2, and removed 1 place setting so it was set for 1. While it could have been my imagination, I perceived that the hostess and busboy were making fun of me. Nonetheless, I ordered my meal (fois gras souffle to start and a mushroom souffle for my main course)and took a piece of bread from the basket. In between bites, I set it down in what I THOUGHT was my bread plate, until I saw that each table, no matter how many place settings, had only ONE of these...ASHTRAYS! I snatched it out quickly, so thankful that they hadn't caught my blunder!

Onward to the right bank, walking through the grounds of the Louvre, by the Tuileries, the Place Vendome, on to the Place Madeline and the Grand Boulevards. I shopped at Le Printemps, and bought my DH some cufflinks (had narrowed it down to a pair of Burberry and a pair of Kenzos; went with the Burberry, as he is anti-French).

When I was finished shopping, I went to the 9th floor Terrace cafe for a view of the city. Wow! What a view! And it's free! You don't even have to make a purchase to enjoy the view!

From the Grand Boulevards, I walked east, passed the U.S. embassy and down the Champs Elysees. Thought I'd give it another try, and didn't like it any better. Made my way back to the left bank near the Eiffel tower over the pont de l'alma, and back to my hotel.

After a brief rest, I had a small snack of delicious warm camenbert soaked in some sort of wine and of course, more wine, at my favorite wine bar in the Place Dauphine, La Salle a Manger. Great wine and really warm proprietors and staff. I stayed a few hours chatting with them and mad the short walk home. Along the way, I stopped at Laurent, the bar at the d'Abusson hotel on rue Dauphine, where I enjoyed a Lillet while watching a jazz quartet. What a treat! They were really good.

What a lovely, inspirational report, iregeo! Although I didn't get to Paris this summer, I can certainly attest to the healing powers of France. And though my trip wasn't solo, I have loved every minute of every solo trip I've ever taken. It's a feeling of complete renaissance.

Thank you!

Sorry, didn't proof! I walked WEST, not EAST down the champs; I ate camembert, not camenbert and I forgot to add my brief stop at Angelina to sample their hot chocolate. I couldn't bring some home for my son without a sample, could I? It's like liquid gold!

Thanks for your comments, StCirq. I enjoyed every second of my time alone in Paris.

Please, give me some advice. How do you get over your ache for France? I can't seem to fully rejoin my life. I literally daydream the day away.

Loved your report, Iregeo! I absolutely love the solo travel thing, and once I started that, it's the only way I want to do it. And that's easy, as I don't have a husband (mine hated traveling, unless it was to play golf!)

A few years ago, I went to Paris solo for 10 days in October - didn't get enough so I went back in May for another 12 days. Then I progressed to taking solo trips to other parts of France, and driving around the countryside. That's a wonderful way to practice your French, by the way. And the driving is much easier than I ever imagined. Your report has me ready to proceed back to Paris!

Oh, iregeo, I know that ache all too well. I can't ever make it go away completely, but I have a few remedies: I sleep at night under boutis that I bought in Uzès; I shop for and cook the same things that please me when I'm in France (have to admit it's never quite the same, but I get close); I read about France constantly, often from magazines and books I've brought home with me; I rent and go to French movies; I listen to French music at home and in the car; I wear things I've bought in France; I watch France2 almost every night; I plant window boxes and flowers in my garden that are like the ones I have in France (never get even close to Mme. Lacoste's neon geraniums, though); I try very, very hard to keep the pace of my life from getting out of control (that usually lasts about a week from the time I get home); I drink French wine; I use all the little treasures I bring home or have sent to myself - my olive oil from the Mas des Barres arrived today!; and I go out to eat in French restaurants I've come to enjoy in my neck of the woods. Oh, and I write up my trip reports to try to capture every little detail, and in the middle of winter or when it's been months since I've been there, I read them and try to "relive" the experience.

That said, there's not a day goes by that I'm not thinking of when I can get back there, or daydreaming of some wonderful image from a previous trip. I just keep telling myself that there will always, and relatively soon, be another trip, and that one day my trips will be in the opposite direction.

O Irego, how do I enjoy your report! And everyone's comments and added stories! You all make Paris so close!

Please do not feel alone with an aching heart to Paris and France - I woke up some mornings and I will ache for France - walking into a Boulangerie, greeting the friendly people selling me my croissant - the sounds of France. I also long for the countryside - a small village with its own rythm and friendly people, waving at you even if you have only been walking around for a day. Wish I could be off right now.

Hi I,

>How do you get over your ache for France? <

The same way you get over "post partum depression"; you do it again.

((I))

Off to France on Wednesday.

I have been reading this post from the beginning and have LOVED every word! It has brought back so many wonderful memories. In October 2002 my sister, brother-in-law, and I went to Paris for a week and onto Provence for a week. We had such a great time (my second trip to Paris (1st only 4 days -but saw ALOT) and their first). In that two weeks, I walked 196 miles (I wore a pedometer everyday just to see how much walking was done!). We saw a Paris that I fell in love with many years ago through pictures and the pages of many books. They left Paris after 14 days, but I had two more days to myself. IT WAS MAGNIFICENT! Even though I love them, being by myself in Paris was such a treat -- doing WHATEVER I wanted WHEN I wanted!

Now, I have been planning a trip for 7 of my girlfriends and I (some married, some not - however, no husbands invited!) for next summer in celebration of many of our 60th birthdays. We are staying in a B&B in Provence for 8 nights and then have rented an apartment in the 7th for 8 nights in Paris. We are ALL so excited -- seeing new areas not seen on prior trips, shopping at the markets, sipping our cafe cremes in the morning on the balcony of the apartment, having a kir royale on the balcony with the olives & cheeses bought at that morning's market before dinner -- just enmeshing ourselves in "our" neighborhood -- after doing what we choose during the day!

I would go to Paris alone in a heartbeat! However, it will be great fun to share Paris with great girlfriends!

Joy

Hi Ira. That's funny...I've heard those with post partum depression eat their young.

Are you really off to France this Wednesday, or are you just teasing me? Where are you going?