One blissful week alone in Paris...
Aug 26th, 2005, 02:14 PM
#41
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I had no problem eating by myself either, in fact, I loved it.. met lots of people and got excellent service. Like you, most nights I didn't return to my room until 10:00 or 11:00. Iregeo, you are my kind of traveller. You have a great attitude. Can't wait to hear more about "your Paris".
Aug 26th, 2005, 04:49 PM
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Iregeo, your stay in Paris sounded marvelous. Just exactly as I would love to do!
I have travelled quite a lot solo to Europe and to the US, and I do like it much better than when I travel with friends.
I am not a loner, but the independence one feels while travelling solo cannot be matched. I was with friends in Paris and London this summer, and will be going solo to Lisbon, Bangkok and Munich in late October into November. I will be attending meetings in Bangkok, but I intend to simply sightee while in Lisbon and Munich.
Maybe next year I will get a chance to go to Paris by myself - your post has been most inspiring... Thank you!
I have travelled quite a lot solo to Europe and to the US, and I do like it much better than when I travel with friends.
I am not a loner, but the independence one feels while travelling solo cannot be matched. I was with friends in Paris and London this summer, and will be going solo to Lisbon, Bangkok and Munich in late October into November. I will be attending meetings in Bangkok, but I intend to simply sightee while in Lisbon and Munich.
Maybe next year I will get a chance to go to Paris by myself - your post has been most inspiring... Thank you!
Aug 26th, 2005, 05:07 PM
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Grandmere, I agree, just go and experience a solo Paris trip. It's intimidating thinking about it, but once you're in Paris, you won't feel as bad. Make an itinerary so you have things to see and do. As for dining solo you can always reserve earlier than normal around 7 or 7:30. The restaurant is not busy at those times.
Aug 26th, 2005, 06:36 PM
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Iregeo: Thank you so much for sharing the details of your blissful week in Paris! My solo trip is coming up in less than six weeks and I hope to duplicate many of the things you did (in fact, it was my thread that you posted to encouraging me when I mentioned my uneasiness about dining solo, and again when you found and booked your fantastic fare).
Aimlessly wandering the streets of Paris, buying wine and flowers for my room, watching the children with their little wooden boats in the fountains in the parks, looking at favorite paintings for as long as I want - these are some of the things that I know I will find so much joy in by myself. And like you, I know I'll find it hard to leave the magic of Paris behind.
Gina
Aimlessly wandering the streets of Paris, buying wine and flowers for my room, watching the children with their little wooden boats in the fountains in the parks, looking at favorite paintings for as long as I want - these are some of the things that I know I will find so much joy in by myself. And like you, I know I'll find it hard to leave the magic of Paris behind.
Gina
Aug 26th, 2005, 06:52 PM
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Jazzyred,
The best French immersion "stage" I took was in Manosque, Provence, Centre internationale des langues. Their program was from 9 to 6 daily unlike most other places which are 9 to 1, and they take you out for fun excursions. It may have changed under new management though, as prev. owners Renee and Claude retired. Do tell when you return. I hope you enjoy yours as much as I did mine! Did wonders to activate my passive French.
Bonne chance!
The best French immersion "stage" I took was in Manosque, Provence, Centre internationale des langues. Their program was from 9 to 6 daily unlike most other places which are 9 to 1, and they take you out for fun excursions. It may have changed under new management though, as prev. owners Renee and Claude retired. Do tell when you return. I hope you enjoy yours as much as I did mine! Did wonders to activate my passive French.
Bonne chance!
Aug 27th, 2005, 05:43 AM
#48
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Hey, I got the job! Now, back to the important things!
mvor: I blush! Shhhh...What happens in Paris stays in Paris.
barb: You absolutely hit it on the head. For one short week, I felt as though it was MY Paris.
Betty boop and Brazilnut: thank you for your encouragement to keep writing, but I must admit I do it a lot for selfish motive, as it lets me relive my trip!
TravelerGina: THIS IS ALL YOUR FAULT!! Don't you think you should at least pay for half my trip?!
mvor: I blush! Shhhh...What happens in Paris stays in Paris.
barb: You absolutely hit it on the head. For one short week, I felt as though it was MY Paris.
Betty boop and Brazilnut: thank you for your encouragement to keep writing, but I must admit I do it a lot for selfish motive, as it lets me relive my trip!
TravelerGina: THIS IS ALL YOUR FAULT!! Don't you think you should at least pay for half my trip?!
Aug 27th, 2005, 06:57 AM
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WEDNESDAY, DAY 2
Well, in line with the whole Parisien chic thing, I have mentioned that I only brought nice clothes and shoes. Real heels were out of the question so, I brought a pair of 3 1/2 inch, pretty comfortable NEW wedge shoes (black, of course) for everyday walking. Um, big mistake. I awoke this day with a dime size blister in the center of my heel. Couldn't get anything to stick to it to cover it up, despite spending about 20E at the pharmacy on bandaids, "second skin", gauze, tape... So, I had no choice but to move on!
I initially set off on the metro to explore the Bois de Boulogne, but, for some reason, my blister made the though of a leisurely stroll in the park unappealing. So, I borrowed some ideas from BTilke and Ger (thanks ladies!) and began to explore the 16th.
Absolutely beautiful neighborhood that stole my heart! I exited the metro at rue de la Pompe, and walked a short distance to Republique, which is a half block of shops selling second hand, very lightly worn or used designer merchandise. Some of the shops were closed, but enough of them were open. For me, I found an incredible Chanel skirt for a mere 900E, and for my husband, a lovely tie for 300E. I PASSED ON THEM BOTH! But, it was great fun looking.
From there, I strolled through the neighborhood, really admiring the architecture. If I'm not mistaken, this is a residential area of beautiful apartment buildings, and perhaps some embassies? In any event, it reminded me of parts of Washington, D.C.
I made my way to the Dokhan Champagne Bar and took a peek inside. It is a lovely, elegant, small room, in which 2 beautiful, elegant women in hats were enjoying their afternoon...or was it still morning? It was beautiful, and reminded me of an elegant tea room. Somehow, though, it was not what I had expected.
From there, I meandered on to the Trocadero, where I have never been! A new and exiting vantage point from which to admire the Eiffel tower! It's beautiful.
Still strolling, I found myself at the Place Victor Hugo, a small place (that's "place", not "place"!)with a fountain in the center, ringed by shops, cafes and restaurants. I chose one with an outdoor patio, Scossi, and had a light lunch of salmon tartare, served with some kind of vegetable salad in the creamiest sauce which I won't soon forget, and more Sancerre.
Seeing the Eiffel Tower from the Trocadero inspired me to find a spot with an expansive view of the city, so...I took the metro to the Montparnasse Tower and Le Ciel de Paris, a restaurant/bar on the 56th floor.
Getting passed security into the tower was kind of funny, as the guard spoke no English and my French apparantly didn't cut it. I was attempting to tell him where I wanted to go, but he kept pointing to a display of badges, any one of which I needed to enter the building. We did this little dance for a few minutes, and then he just waived me through, with a wink!
The view from the top surely is expansive, but seems to "flatten" out the city. I think there are better places to view the city from on high, such as the 9th floor terrace at Le Printemps on the Grand Blvds. Anyway, I treated myself to a glass of champagne, the waiter treated me to a small sweet and I left.
Shopping is not something I usally do on vacation because my husband HATES it. But hey, he's not here, so... I checked out the Galleries Lafayette, a regular department store, and found that it was attached to a bunch of shops right there at the Tour Monparnasse. I found it way to "mall like", which is surely NOT what I came to Paris for, and promptly left.
That evening, I had attempted to reserve a table at Allard, Le Florimond, Au Bon Accueil Le P'tit Troquet, but all were closed for vacation. I was able to reserve at Chez Maitre Paul, a cute little restaurant on rue Mssr. le Prince. I had pate maison, duck breast, a dessert of sorbet, fresh berries and sauce and their house wine (Jura?) for 34E. The service was friendly and I'd give this restaurant a B+.
A stroll in my neighborhood, and espress at a cafe and it was bon nuit for me!
Well, in line with the whole Parisien chic thing, I have mentioned that I only brought nice clothes and shoes. Real heels were out of the question so, I brought a pair of 3 1/2 inch, pretty comfortable NEW wedge shoes (black, of course) for everyday walking. Um, big mistake. I awoke this day with a dime size blister in the center of my heel. Couldn't get anything to stick to it to cover it up, despite spending about 20E at the pharmacy on bandaids, "second skin", gauze, tape... So, I had no choice but to move on!
I initially set off on the metro to explore the Bois de Boulogne, but, for some reason, my blister made the though of a leisurely stroll in the park unappealing. So, I borrowed some ideas from BTilke and Ger (thanks ladies!) and began to explore the 16th.
Absolutely beautiful neighborhood that stole my heart! I exited the metro at rue de la Pompe, and walked a short distance to Republique, which is a half block of shops selling second hand, very lightly worn or used designer merchandise. Some of the shops were closed, but enough of them were open. For me, I found an incredible Chanel skirt for a mere 900E, and for my husband, a lovely tie for 300E. I PASSED ON THEM BOTH! But, it was great fun looking.
From there, I strolled through the neighborhood, really admiring the architecture. If I'm not mistaken, this is a residential area of beautiful apartment buildings, and perhaps some embassies? In any event, it reminded me of parts of Washington, D.C.
I made my way to the Dokhan Champagne Bar and took a peek inside. It is a lovely, elegant, small room, in which 2 beautiful, elegant women in hats were enjoying their afternoon...or was it still morning? It was beautiful, and reminded me of an elegant tea room. Somehow, though, it was not what I had expected.
From there, I meandered on to the Trocadero, where I have never been! A new and exiting vantage point from which to admire the Eiffel tower! It's beautiful.
Still strolling, I found myself at the Place Victor Hugo, a small place (that's "place", not "place"!)with a fountain in the center, ringed by shops, cafes and restaurants. I chose one with an outdoor patio, Scossi, and had a light lunch of salmon tartare, served with some kind of vegetable salad in the creamiest sauce which I won't soon forget, and more Sancerre.
Seeing the Eiffel Tower from the Trocadero inspired me to find a spot with an expansive view of the city, so...I took the metro to the Montparnasse Tower and Le Ciel de Paris, a restaurant/bar on the 56th floor.
Getting passed security into the tower was kind of funny, as the guard spoke no English and my French apparantly didn't cut it. I was attempting to tell him where I wanted to go, but he kept pointing to a display of badges, any one of which I needed to enter the building. We did this little dance for a few minutes, and then he just waived me through, with a wink!
The view from the top surely is expansive, but seems to "flatten" out the city. I think there are better places to view the city from on high, such as the 9th floor terrace at Le Printemps on the Grand Blvds. Anyway, I treated myself to a glass of champagne, the waiter treated me to a small sweet and I left.
Shopping is not something I usally do on vacation because my husband HATES it. But hey, he's not here, so... I checked out the Galleries Lafayette, a regular department store, and found that it was attached to a bunch of shops right there at the Tour Monparnasse. I found it way to "mall like", which is surely NOT what I came to Paris for, and promptly left.
That evening, I had attempted to reserve a table at Allard, Le Florimond, Au Bon Accueil Le P'tit Troquet, but all were closed for vacation. I was able to reserve at Chez Maitre Paul, a cute little restaurant on rue Mssr. le Prince. I had pate maison, duck breast, a dessert of sorbet, fresh berries and sauce and their house wine (Jura?) for 34E. The service was friendly and I'd give this restaurant a B+.
A stroll in my neighborhood, and espress at a cafe and it was bon nuit for me!
Aug 27th, 2005, 07:17 AM
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Iregeo: Well, since you got the job (congrats!), I won't feel the necessity to pay for half of your trip - lol. However, I will happily take the blame for you having to 'endure' a whole week in Paris, eating the wonderful food, drinking Sancerre, and getting to live the life of a chic Parisien woman. Can't wait for my turn!
Aug 27th, 2005, 08:05 AM
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Paris... I understand you well. Nothing comes close to it... Nothing. And I generally dislike French for their political views and their inferiority complex. But it doesn’t matter to me when it comes to Paris. I could go there every year, if there weren’t so many other beautiful places to visit. But only few of them “invite” you back so magnetically. I don’t share with you your love of traveling alone, especially to Paris. This is such a romantic city. And it calls for you to explore it with your significant other. You mentioned your husband in your posting… In my book he would be a perfect companion in Paris – I know my wife always was the few times we traveled there. As far as some of the language concerns, expressed in this thread, I agree with many of you, who said that a little effort goes a long way. One says a word or two in French and the ice is broken. I’m looking forward to reading your journal – any story involving Paris always warms up my heart
Aug 27th, 2005, 11:28 AM
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Iregeo I always enjoy reading about solo travels to Paris, as I've done the same four times now. I also stayed at Le Regent hotel this past July and got a terrific deal at 112 euro per night.
Someone mentioned a concern about bad service dining solo, and I can say that I've never had that experience in Paris. In fact, quite the opposite has been true.
Bon voyage to all solo travelers.
Someone mentioned a concern about bad service dining solo, and I can say that I've never had that experience in Paris. In fact, quite the opposite has been true.
Bon voyage to all solo travelers.
Aug 27th, 2005, 11:44 AM
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Iregeo,
You've really done it! I am beginning plans, opening a savings account, etc., for a solo trip to Paris next fall! But I am thinking of staying at the Carofftel Gobelins Hotel on the 5th; it was great in all respects and much cheaper than Le Regent (89 euros for a large twin this past May).
You've really done it! I am beginning plans, opening a savings account, etc., for a solo trip to Paris next fall! But I am thinking of staying at the Carofftel Gobelins Hotel on the 5th; it was great in all respects and much cheaper than Le Regent (89 euros for a large twin this past May).
Aug 28th, 2005, 09:04 AM
#55
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Bonjour mes amis.
TravelerGina: Do you know what "bubkas" are? I (think) I am entering a second career teaching kindergarten, first as an assistant, after being a lawyer and a mom. With what they're "paying" me, I'm considering this volunteer work! Anyway, I wish for you the most beautiful trip and really hope you will report in with details, so I can get my fix!
bukovina88: I would love to share Paris with my husband, as I did 11 years ago. But, without the intent of starting a debate here, I doubt he'll ever set foot in France again. Thankfully, he has no objection to me going, alone or with friends. And, as you travelers know, when you gotta go, you gotta go!
Brazilnut: I am honored and so happy for you! You won't regret it! Planning is almost as fun as the trip itself. For whatever reason, the 5th is not my favorite part of the city, but if it's yours, that's what's important. Last year, I stayed at "Ira's hotel", the Bonaparte, and liked it very much. I think it's in a similar price range to that which you are considering, but I absolutely LOVED the location, even better than LeRegent. Have a look at it.
TravelerGina: Do you know what "bubkas" are? I (think) I am entering a second career teaching kindergarten, first as an assistant, after being a lawyer and a mom. With what they're "paying" me, I'm considering this volunteer work! Anyway, I wish for you the most beautiful trip and really hope you will report in with details, so I can get my fix!
bukovina88: I would love to share Paris with my husband, as I did 11 years ago. But, without the intent of starting a debate here, I doubt he'll ever set foot in France again. Thankfully, he has no objection to me going, alone or with friends. And, as you travelers know, when you gotta go, you gotta go!
Brazilnut: I am honored and so happy for you! You won't regret it! Planning is almost as fun as the trip itself. For whatever reason, the 5th is not my favorite part of the city, but if it's yours, that's what's important. Last year, I stayed at "Ira's hotel", the Bonaparte, and liked it very much. I think it's in a similar price range to that which you are considering, but I absolutely LOVED the location, even better than LeRegent. Have a look at it.
Aug 28th, 2005, 10:08 AM
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THURSDAY - DAY 3
Today, I walked more than I would have thought humanly possible. I spent the whole day with the illustrious MICHAEL OSMAN!
First, let me say that I retained Michael, knowing very little about him, simply based on his rave reviews here. What a treat! Michael is a young, American, classically trained artist, who has lived in Paris for 10 years. He is so personable and began showing some friends and family around the city and his "guide" business seemed to blossom from there. He is amazingly knowledgeable about even the smallest details of Parisien art, history, culture, architecture... It was a fabulous day.
Since this was my 4th trip to the city, Michael knew I wanted to see some areas I might not visit or find on my own. Over the past few months, we had communicated by e-mail, where he learned of my interests, so, I put myself in his hands and off we went.
We crossed the river to the right bank, where we wound our way through many of the beautiful passages of the 1st, 2nd and 8th (I think) arr. Along the way, Michael pointed out many points of interest, including famous restaurants, the Bourse, the Drouint (I know I butchered that spelling), and lots of small, interesting details.
From there, we took a bus to the 20th arr. and walked through Belleville to see a more typical, less glamourous residential part of the city. I had never been here before and I found it interesting.
We walked all the way to the 19th, where we picked up some sandwiches (Parisien fast food is the greatest!) and spent a lovely few hours in the Parc des Buttes Chaumont. Very beautiful!
From there, it was on to the 18th, near but behind Sacre Coeur, again in the residential part of town. Every time we got tired, we stopped in a small, neighborhood parc, and watched the children play.
Somewhere along the way, we passed an elementary school on which a new placque, affixed on March 26, 2005, read: (I'll do my best to translate)
"to the memory of the students of this school deported between 1942 to 1944 (parce que nes juifs?), innocent victims of the barbarian nazis and the Vichy government. They were exterminated in the death camps. More than 700 of these children lived in the 18 eme. We will never forget." I was touched.
I know this is getting way too long, so I'll just add that on our way to Parc Monceau, I couldn't take it anymore, (it was the only day of heat -- 97 degrees), so we made our way back by bus, with Michael pointing out interesting facts all the way.
Anyone who has the chance to spend a day or two with Michael in Paris should do it. You won't be sorry. Although he and I just "hung out" for the day, he knows so much about so much.
Dinner that night was at Relais de L'Entrecote. Steak and frites (and more steak and frites), salad, profiteroles, and a nice 1/2 bottle of bordeaux for 45E. With all that walking, I didn't gain an ounce!
Today, I walked more than I would have thought humanly possible. I spent the whole day with the illustrious MICHAEL OSMAN!
First, let me say that I retained Michael, knowing very little about him, simply based on his rave reviews here. What a treat! Michael is a young, American, classically trained artist, who has lived in Paris for 10 years. He is so personable and began showing some friends and family around the city and his "guide" business seemed to blossom from there. He is amazingly knowledgeable about even the smallest details of Parisien art, history, culture, architecture... It was a fabulous day.
Since this was my 4th trip to the city, Michael knew I wanted to see some areas I might not visit or find on my own. Over the past few months, we had communicated by e-mail, where he learned of my interests, so, I put myself in his hands and off we went.
We crossed the river to the right bank, where we wound our way through many of the beautiful passages of the 1st, 2nd and 8th (I think) arr. Along the way, Michael pointed out many points of interest, including famous restaurants, the Bourse, the Drouint (I know I butchered that spelling), and lots of small, interesting details.
From there, we took a bus to the 20th arr. and walked through Belleville to see a more typical, less glamourous residential part of the city. I had never been here before and I found it interesting.
We walked all the way to the 19th, where we picked up some sandwiches (Parisien fast food is the greatest!) and spent a lovely few hours in the Parc des Buttes Chaumont. Very beautiful!
From there, it was on to the 18th, near but behind Sacre Coeur, again in the residential part of town. Every time we got tired, we stopped in a small, neighborhood parc, and watched the children play.
Somewhere along the way, we passed an elementary school on which a new placque, affixed on March 26, 2005, read: (I'll do my best to translate)
"to the memory of the students of this school deported between 1942 to 1944 (parce que nes juifs?), innocent victims of the barbarian nazis and the Vichy government. They were exterminated in the death camps. More than 700 of these children lived in the 18 eme. We will never forget." I was touched.
I know this is getting way too long, so I'll just add that on our way to Parc Monceau, I couldn't take it anymore, (it was the only day of heat -- 97 degrees), so we made our way back by bus, with Michael pointing out interesting facts all the way.
Anyone who has the chance to spend a day or two with Michael in Paris should do it. You won't be sorry. Although he and I just "hung out" for the day, he knows so much about so much.
Dinner that night was at Relais de L'Entrecote. Steak and frites (and more steak and frites), salad, profiteroles, and a nice 1/2 bottle of bordeaux for 45E. With all that walking, I didn't gain an ounce!
Aug 28th, 2005, 10:49 AM
#58
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the info I have for MICHAEL OSMAN is:
00 33 (0)1 40 15 62 17
email: [email protected]
www.geocities.com/parisfinder/
Sometimes it takes him a while to return a call or e-mail because of his schedule, but he seems to eventually get around to a response. I found him worth the wait! Good luck.
00 33 (0)1 40 15 62 17
email: [email protected]
www.geocities.com/parisfinder/
Sometimes it takes him a while to return a call or e-mail because of his schedule, but he seems to eventually get around to a response. I found him worth the wait! Good luck.
Aug 29th, 2005, 04:07 PM
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Iregeno - sounds like you had a great time. I know what you mean about being able to just get up and do whatever you want that day, when you travel alone. I did my first solo trip last summer and loved it. I've done a couple of "semi-solo" trips - I went alone but visited someone once I got there, so wasn't really all alone. On the solo trip (in my case Italy and Prague) it was so different. Not to diminish travel with husbands and others, but there's just something very special about being all alone in fasinating places like Europe. Even though I'm a compulsive planner, when was alone I often just scrapped my plans and did something else. It was great.
I just came back from three weeks in Europe with my husband, and while I had a great time, and of course loved traveling with him, I did sort of miss being a solo traveler.
So thanks for this post, which will hopefully encourage others to go solo.
I just came back from three weeks in Europe with my husband, and while I had a great time, and of course loved traveling with him, I did sort of miss being a solo traveler.
So thanks for this post, which will hopefully encourage others to go solo.
