On the beaten path: Tirol, Salzkammergut and Munich
May 23rd, 2019, 04:03 PM
#21
Adelaidean -
Innsbruck is at the top of my list for a possible trip in December - I hope to take my niece for her first visit to Europe, but can't do anything until she knows her school schedule. I'm struggling to narrow things down, but Innsbruck is a definite go.
The Salzkammergut was very cold...and that's saying something considering we like cold
Innsbruck is at the top of my list for a possible trip in December - I hope to take my niece for her first visit to Europe, but can't do anything until she knows her school schedule. I'm struggling to narrow things down, but Innsbruck is a definite go.
The Salzkammergut was very cold...and that's saying something considering we like cold
May 24th, 2019, 01:47 PM
#26
St Gilgen – Day 7
After a peaceful night in the most comfortable bed thus far, we woke to a cold foggy day. The lake was out there…somewhere. We walked down the hill to Spar for provisions and popped into the Information Office for a map and ferry schedule.
We knew from our pre-trip research that the Schafbergahn, the steepest cogwheel railway in Austria, would be operating from Thurs-Sunday during our stay as would the Zwölferhorn lift above Sankt Gilgen. What we didn’t know was how cold and gloomy it would be - a damp, bone chilling, core freezing cold (and this from a couple Coloradans who like cold weather!).
We spent the morning exploring the St Gilgen village center, not expecting it to be quite so big. We walked through the Advent Market and aimlessly wandered, admiring the lovely painted buildings, getting our bearings and trying to stay warm (12 F).
St. Gilgen
We popped into Kendler Hotel Gasthof for lunch – Bill choosing the Tagesgericht - bacon wrapped sheep cheese over salad, me predictably opting for the creamy garlic soup, both excellent, as was the warm Topfenstrudel with cream that we shared for desert (30 Euro with beer and wine, four thumbs up).
As we sat in the restaurant we noticed large numbers of Chinese visitors wandering in, many being turned away as the restaurant was now full.
Back in the village center the extent of the onslaught became clear – evidently a ferry had just arrived from St Wolfgang, and St Gilgen was now heaving with predominantly Chinese visitors (I later read that there has been a 300% increase in Chinese visitors to the Salzkammergut, and I believe it).
It had gotten so cold that we had to pull out our neck gaiters for the first time since we’d arrived in Europe.
We wandered up towards the Zwölferhorn, watching as the cable cars disappeared into the thick fog, no views up there today. The nearby parking lot was almost completely full of tourist buses, disgorging their masses, all making a beeline for the cable station, dubious views not-with-standing.
We explored the Pfarrkirche and wandered through the cemetery. We walked along the Wolfgangsee, slivers of blue sky teasing us, but quickly disappearing. We sampled the Gluhmost at a kiosk alongside the lake curled up on sheepskin covered logs in front of a fire.
Wolfgangsee from St. Gilgen
Back in the village we were enticed into the warm cozy Konditorei Dallman by the smell of coffee and the drool-worthy pastry display. Here we had our second desert of the day, seeking warmth in mugs of rich Trinkschokolade with cream. Oh my. We tucked into slices of Sacher cheesecake torte and Esterhazyschnitt, the latter so sweet it made my teeth hurt. I loved this cozy little sugar haven and was loath to leave (17.30 Euro).
Konditorei Dallman, St. Gilgen
Then we trudged back uphill to the apartment, where we learned that a Yellow Warning for extreme cold temperatures had been issued. No wonder we were cold! Somehow we’d managed to log some four miles while eating our way through St Gilgen.
To be continued…
After a peaceful night in the most comfortable bed thus far, we woke to a cold foggy day. The lake was out there…somewhere. We walked down the hill to Spar for provisions and popped into the Information Office for a map and ferry schedule.
We knew from our pre-trip research that the Schafbergahn, the steepest cogwheel railway in Austria, would be operating from Thurs-Sunday during our stay as would the Zwölferhorn lift above Sankt Gilgen. What we didn’t know was how cold and gloomy it would be - a damp, bone chilling, core freezing cold (and this from a couple Coloradans who like cold weather!).
We spent the morning exploring the St Gilgen village center, not expecting it to be quite so big. We walked through the Advent Market and aimlessly wandered, admiring the lovely painted buildings, getting our bearings and trying to stay warm (12 F).
St. Gilgen
We popped into Kendler Hotel Gasthof for lunch – Bill choosing the Tagesgericht - bacon wrapped sheep cheese over salad, me predictably opting for the creamy garlic soup, both excellent, as was the warm Topfenstrudel with cream that we shared for desert (30 Euro with beer and wine, four thumbs up).
As we sat in the restaurant we noticed large numbers of Chinese visitors wandering in, many being turned away as the restaurant was now full.
Back in the village center the extent of the onslaught became clear – evidently a ferry had just arrived from St Wolfgang, and St Gilgen was now heaving with predominantly Chinese visitors (I later read that there has been a 300% increase in Chinese visitors to the Salzkammergut, and I believe it).
It had gotten so cold that we had to pull out our neck gaiters for the first time since we’d arrived in Europe.
We wandered up towards the Zwölferhorn, watching as the cable cars disappeared into the thick fog, no views up there today. The nearby parking lot was almost completely full of tourist buses, disgorging their masses, all making a beeline for the cable station, dubious views not-with-standing.
We explored the Pfarrkirche and wandered through the cemetery. We walked along the Wolfgangsee, slivers of blue sky teasing us, but quickly disappearing. We sampled the Gluhmost at a kiosk alongside the lake curled up on sheepskin covered logs in front of a fire.
Wolfgangsee from St. Gilgen
Back in the village we were enticed into the warm cozy Konditorei Dallman by the smell of coffee and the drool-worthy pastry display. Here we had our second desert of the day, seeking warmth in mugs of rich Trinkschokolade with cream. Oh my. We tucked into slices of Sacher cheesecake torte and Esterhazyschnitt, the latter so sweet it made my teeth hurt. I loved this cozy little sugar haven and was loath to leave (17.30 Euro).
Konditorei Dallman, St. Gilgen
Then we trudged back uphill to the apartment, where we learned that a Yellow Warning for extreme cold temperatures had been issued. No wonder we were cold! Somehow we’d managed to log some four miles while eating our way through St Gilgen.
To be continued…
Last edited by Melnq8; May 24th, 2019 at 01:51 PM.
May 24th, 2019, 02:16 PM
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May 24th, 2019, 04:35 PM
#31
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Just found this and love reading about your winter trip, Melnq8. Love the food descriptions and pictures, too. I had cream of garlic soup a gazillion years ago in Lofer, Austria and have dreamt of it ever since. Do you know how they make it?
May 24th, 2019, 04:42 PM
#32
Not specifically Trophywife. I've made it at home, but it never seems to come out as well. Same with white wine soup - I can't seem to replicate the white wine soup I had in Chur one year that knocked my socks off.
I love a good bowl of soup and eat a lot of it when in Germany and Switzerland...and now Austria.
In fact, one of my most interesting soup experiences was in St Wolfgang on this very trip - baked apple soup! It was weirdly wonderful.
I love a good bowl of soup and eat a lot of it when in Germany and Switzerland...and now Austria.
In fact, one of my most interesting soup experiences was in St Wolfgang on this very trip - baked apple soup! It was weirdly wonderful.
May 25th, 2019, 04:36 AM
#34
swandav -
Yes of course! And fleece lined pants, and wool socks, and coats (sometimes a coat over a fleece jacket for extra warmth), and mittens, with neck gaiters always nearby in a backpack.
Funny that you ask though, as I arranged a women's trip to Germany a year and a half ago and despite me advising everyone what to bring, one of them didn't bring a winter hat because she's so vain about her hair. I thought she was nuts. She ended up buying one while there out of sheer necessity.
Yes of course! And fleece lined pants, and wool socks, and coats (sometimes a coat over a fleece jacket for extra warmth), and mittens, with neck gaiters always nearby in a backpack.
Funny that you ask though, as I arranged a women's trip to Germany a year and a half ago and despite me advising everyone what to bring, one of them didn't bring a winter hat because she's so vain about her hair. I thought she was nuts. She ended up buying one while there out of sheer necessity.
May 26th, 2019, 01:48 PM
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Thanks heaps for the report, Melnq8, really enjoying it and the photos are lovely. I've never seen fleece lined pants available for sale in Australia but will look more closely for our own holiday. I converted 12F to celsius and thought OMG!
May 26th, 2019, 02:56 PM
#37
I've never seen fleece lined pants available for sale in Australia.
If my experience trying to find wool or silk sock liners in Australia is any indication, I suspect you won't find much of anything with a fleece lining!
LL Bean is my friend, and possibly yours too if the shipping doesn't break the bank.
They're even hard to find at Bean right now since it's summer up here in the Northern Hemisphere, but they should be coming out again September-ish.
Ours are hiking pants, so not these, but you get the idea:
https://www.llbean.com/llb/shop/1190...4756-GN1&csp=a
https://www.llbean.com/llb/shop/8537...Black%20Coffee
If my experience trying to find wool or silk sock liners in Australia is any indication, I suspect you won't find much of anything with a fleece lining!
LL Bean is my friend, and possibly yours too if the shipping doesn't break the bank.
They're even hard to find at Bean right now since it's summer up here in the Northern Hemisphere, but they should be coming out again September-ish.
Ours are hiking pants, so not these, but you get the idea:
https://www.llbean.com/llb/shop/1190...4756-GN1&csp=a
https://www.llbean.com/llb/shop/8537...Black%20Coffee
May 26th, 2019, 11:40 PM
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Just got to this Mel as we have had three weeks away - Garmisch Partenkirchen, Northern Italy towns and Pertisau in Tirol.
If you found it cold then that time of year is not for us!
We were surprised at finding it pretty cold in the mountains this month, and with a good dose of fresh snow, but fortunately we had thrown in an Icebreaker sweater for each of us and some of the amazing Uniqlo very lightweight heat tech tops.
We always have our walking boots.
Dreamon I am not sure where you live in Australia, but the Icebreaker stuff is great (but expensive) and they do make sock liners, although I doubt if any could have been found in Perth Mel!
We love the Uniqlo heat tech, it is very light and easy to wash and dry, and my daugher loves their fleece tops and I think they actually do have some fleece lined pants. They have excellent online service too...easy to check online.
Looking forward to a slower re read Mel - thank you for this!
If you found it cold then that time of year is not for us!
We were surprised at finding it pretty cold in the mountains this month, and with a good dose of fresh snow, but fortunately we had thrown in an Icebreaker sweater for each of us and some of the amazing Uniqlo very lightweight heat tech tops.
We always have our walking boots.
Dreamon I am not sure where you live in Australia, but the Icebreaker stuff is great (but expensive) and they do make sock liners, although I doubt if any could have been found in Perth Mel!
We love the Uniqlo heat tech, it is very light and easy to wash and dry, and my daugher loves their fleece tops and I think they actually do have some fleece lined pants. They have excellent online service too...easy to check online.
Looking forward to a slower re read Mel - thank you for this!
