Oh, No, Not Another Trip Report - for England and Wales
Nov 4th, 2007, 01:53 PM
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Oh, No, Not Another Trip Report - for England and Wales
I owe so much to the good people at this site for the invaluable information I gathered here before our trip to Britain. So I am putting together this trip report even though I suspect I’ve not much new to add!
Basically, this was a twelve-day trip in which we tried (not always successfully) to jam in as many must-see sights as possible in places we’d always wanted to visit. Twelve days turned out to be not enough time, but with an 82-year old mother (and a 12-year old dog) at home to consider, it was all the time we could spare (not to mention the expense!).
We tried to do this trip as frugally as possible, so I will include any cost-saving tips that are relevant. We managed to keep the cost for the entire trip (not including airfare which was paid for with frequent flyer miles) under $3000; this included EVERYTHING --lodging, meals, site admissions, transportation, and (minimal) souvenirs and gifts. We did find Britain to be rather expensive; particularly for dining out (which we didn’t do a lot of.) I hope this observation doesn’t insult anyone.
So, here we go –
<b>October 17th</b> - We live near Seattle but because we were using FF miles, flew British Air out of Vancouver to Heathrow. YVR is a lovely airport and seems much more user-friendly than SeaTac. We had to abide by British Air’s annoying policy of not permitting seat assignments until 24 hours before the flight – even then, the website didn’t work and we ended up having to phone BA to get our seats. Seatguru.com indicated that several rows near the rear of the plane were preferential as the plane (747) is narrower there so the side seats are only two across -- a nice arrangement for couples. Still, the man in front of me reclined his seat back from takeoff to landing, so I felt pretty cramped. Plenty to do on the plane what with first-run movies on the individual TV screens and two meals, but we managed to grab a couple of hours sleep.
<b>October 18th</b> – Landed at Heathrow about 1:45 PM, pretty close to on-time. Immigration was a breeze, as was purchasing our Oyster cards and grabbing the tube to Victoria Station (one change at Hammersmith.) We opted to buy 7-day travelcards (about 25 GBP each) loaded on an Oyster, though we were only in London for parts of five days…this was to take advantage of the 2-for-1 deals at various attractions, and it really paid off. (Thanks, alanRow.)
It took us about half-an-hour to negotiate the ten-minute walk from Victoria Station to our hotel the first time…street names kept changing and confusing us. Duh! Finally we arrived at the Luna & Simone Hotel. We had indicated that we traveled light, but that quiet and (if possible) views were important to us, so we were given a room on the 5th
floor – 88 steps up! Oh, well. Upon first entry, our room at the L&S was shockingly small…by actual measurement, it was 9’ by 11’, and the bathroom door could not be opened all the way because it ran into the bed. But it was spanking clean and we eventually got used to stepping around each other en route to the bathroom.
We wandered around our neighborhood and had pasties at a nearby coffee shop. Then we used my Costco – MCI calling card to call my niece, who is a theater arts major at Ithaca College doing a semester on West End theater. Kacie showed up soon, looking quite the little Londoner in her high boots, tights, short skirt, red trenchcoat and cap. We all boarded the #24 bus; literally right across the street, and rode to Trafalgar Square. They were showing great old silent films, with improvisational piano accompaniment, in the moonlit square that night…then we walked through Leicester Square to Piccadilly Circus, and had a drink with my oh-so-sophisticated niece. It was a great introduction to London. Home on trusty #24!
<b>October 19th</b> – Up early for our first English breakfast, including (for the first and last time) baked beans. Victoria Station was a sea of people during the morning commute; folks had to go down to the platforms in regulated groups as they were too crowded. We stood most of the way to Tower Hill, then used our Oyster cards for the first time to secure 2 for 1 entry into the Tower of London…saving 16 GBP.
If I have one piece of advice for travelers to the great sights of London, it is this: get there early. We were literally the ONLY ONES in the building (except the guards, of course) to see the Crown Jewels, and shared the first “Beefeater Tour” of the day with only about 20 other people. Our Yeoman Warder was Phil Wilson, who is featured in the Tower’s guidebook, and he was very entertaining. As we left, we noticed another Yeoman Warder leading a crowd of what must have been 150 folks – so again, get there early. The tour, and the Tower, were of course not-to-be-missed experiences.
Out to the Thames to take photos of Tower Bridge, and then we walked to St. Paul’s, stopping at Subway on the way (because it was cheap and also because we love their meatball subs). I used the Oyster card again for admission to St. Paul’s, saving 9.50 GBP. Toured the marvelous church and climbed up to the Whispering Gallery (whispering didn’t work for us unless one used sort of a shout-whisper), then on to the first viewing gallery. Lacking the energy to go further, we climbed back down and took Bus #15 back to Trafalgar, then bus #24 home.
By the way, if you can manage to score the front seats on the top of these double decker buses, you are in for a ride as good as anything at Disneyland. We tried for them every time.
Our day still wasn’t over, as we shopped for food (roast chicken, rolls, apples, strawberries) at Sainsburys, then picnicked in our room. Then we were off on a 10-minute walk to the Victoria Apollo Theatre, where we had tickets (purchased from home) to see “Wicked”. The show was great, as it had to be to keep us awake after this extremely strenuous day!
<i>More to come – this will be my LONGEST daily report, I promise.</i>
Nov 4th, 2007, 03:28 PM
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Is this your first trip to London? If so, you did a great job of figuring out oyster cards, bus routes and the importance of arriving early to visit the major sights.
Glad you enjoyed Wicked. We saw it while in London last month and thought it was great. I was a bit worried as several critics seem to enjoy panning it. But what do they know?
Looking forward to more. The cost saving informtion is certainly helpful.
Glad you enjoyed Wicked. We saw it while in London last month and thought it was great. I was a bit worried as several critics seem to enjoy panning it. But what do they know?
Looking forward to more. The cost saving informtion is certainly helpful.
Nov 4th, 2007, 06:56 PM
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<b>October 20th</b> – Switched to scrambled eggs, toast and yogurt this AM, and took off early on #24 once again for Westminster Abbey. We arrived before the 9:30 opening time, and walked out on Westminster Bridge for photos of Big Ben, Parliament, the Eye and other London icons. When we entered the Abbey we went straight to the desk and signed up for the first verger’s tour of the day. This turned out to be one of the greatest things that we did on the entire trip! Our verger, Benjamin, was so interesting and informative; this great building’s history truly came alive. Do the verger’s tour…it’s SO worth it. And again, go early; as when we came out of the Abbey at around 12:30 the line (excuse me, I mean queue) was a couple of blocks long.
Next up was the Cabinet War Rooms and Churchill Museum; this was especially interesting for my husband, the WWII buff, but I enjoyed it as well. The 2 for 1 admission worked here as well, and saved us 11 GBP…if you’re keeping track, that’s a total of 36.50 GBP saved! Really made the 7-day travelcard/Oyster deal worthwhile.
Bus #24 then delivered us right back to our door. We rested a while, then took the tube to Earl’s Court to meet my niece and tour her London neighborhood and flat. Tube was very crowded with excited rugby fans, as tonight was the big international rugby game in Paris between Britain and South Africa. We visited with my niece, had dinner at a Gourmet Burger Kitchen, and then rode home – tube was very crowded with sad rugby fans, as Britain lost the match.
<b>October 21st</b> - This morning we rode the bus to Tottenham Court Road, then got off and walked a few blocks to the British Museum. The museum was very impressive, particularly the spectacular glass-roofed Great Court. A great many people waited in line for tickets to see the Chinese Terracotta Warriors. We contented ourselves with the highlights of the regular collection – Elgin marbles, Assyrian rooms, Rosetta Stone and Sutton Hoo discoveries. We left the museum about 12:30 and shared a baguette and soda for lunch at a shop near the Russell Hotel (which made us start humming tunes from the musical “Cats”.) Then on to the British Library, where we viewed everything from the Magna Carta to Beatles’ lyrics in the Treasures room. The Library is another spectacular piece of architecture, particularly with the huge ornate red brick pile of St. Pancras’ station looming up behind it.
Finally, we tubed to Covent Garden, which was jammed with people on this pleasant Sunday afternoon. We visited St. Paul’s (Actor’s Church) and watched the buskers, and the people watching the buskers. Then we met my niece again and spent a pleasant evening over Guinness at the Lamb and Flag Pub (licensed during the reign of Elizabeth I!). So our last evening in London passed very pleasantly, before a walk back to Trafalgar Square and a ride home on trusty #24.
There was so much we didn’t get to do in London! Never set foot on the South Bank, for example; we just plain ran out of time. But we will be back.
Here are a few things that surprised me about London: 1) People here were exceptionally friendly and accessible. That famous British reserve? Never saw it. 2) The city is filled with energy and purpose, and in that way reminded me more of Manhattan than other huge European capitals, like Paris and Rome. 3) There are advertisements for prostitutes inside those classic red phone booths!!!
<i>Next up – York by train.</i>
Next up was the Cabinet War Rooms and Churchill Museum; this was especially interesting for my husband, the WWII buff, but I enjoyed it as well. The 2 for 1 admission worked here as well, and saved us 11 GBP…if you’re keeping track, that’s a total of 36.50 GBP saved! Really made the 7-day travelcard/Oyster deal worthwhile.
Bus #24 then delivered us right back to our door. We rested a while, then took the tube to Earl’s Court to meet my niece and tour her London neighborhood and flat. Tube was very crowded with excited rugby fans, as tonight was the big international rugby game in Paris between Britain and South Africa. We visited with my niece, had dinner at a Gourmet Burger Kitchen, and then rode home – tube was very crowded with sad rugby fans, as Britain lost the match.
<b>October 21st</b> - This morning we rode the bus to Tottenham Court Road, then got off and walked a few blocks to the British Museum. The museum was very impressive, particularly the spectacular glass-roofed Great Court. A great many people waited in line for tickets to see the Chinese Terracotta Warriors. We contented ourselves with the highlights of the regular collection – Elgin marbles, Assyrian rooms, Rosetta Stone and Sutton Hoo discoveries. We left the museum about 12:30 and shared a baguette and soda for lunch at a shop near the Russell Hotel (which made us start humming tunes from the musical “Cats”.) Then on to the British Library, where we viewed everything from the Magna Carta to Beatles’ lyrics in the Treasures room. The Library is another spectacular piece of architecture, particularly with the huge ornate red brick pile of St. Pancras’ station looming up behind it.
Finally, we tubed to Covent Garden, which was jammed with people on this pleasant Sunday afternoon. We visited St. Paul’s (Actor’s Church) and watched the buskers, and the people watching the buskers. Then we met my niece again and spent a pleasant evening over Guinness at the Lamb and Flag Pub (licensed during the reign of Elizabeth I!). So our last evening in London passed very pleasantly, before a walk back to Trafalgar Square and a ride home on trusty #24.
There was so much we didn’t get to do in London! Never set foot on the South Bank, for example; we just plain ran out of time. But we will be back.
Here are a few things that surprised me about London: 1) People here were exceptionally friendly and accessible. That famous British reserve? Never saw it. 2) The city is filled with energy and purpose, and in that way reminded me more of Manhattan than other huge European capitals, like Paris and Rome. 3) There are advertisements for prostitutes inside those classic red phone booths!!!
<i>Next up – York by train.</i>
Nov 4th, 2007, 08:36 PM
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<b>October 22nd</b> – Bid farewell to the friendly folks at the Luna & Simone, and took one last ride on #24 to Victoria Station. Rode the packed Victoria Line tube to King’s Cross. We were way early, so we had a look around at Harry Potter’s Platform 9 and ¾.
The 100 mph train ride from London to York was another highlight of our trip. Our one-way fares to York were less than 10 GBP each (purchased in advance from the GNER web site); this seemed like an astounding bargain to me. We found our seats with some difficulty, since the car that was marked with an “F” on the outside was marked with an “E” on the inside. We were more than ready to mark this problem up to our own stupidity, but just about everyone boarding the car had the same difficulty.
The ride to York passed very quickly, in conversation with our amiable tablemates – a French woman living in York, and a Londoner bound for Aberdeen who had grown up in Rhodesia. I was so impressed with British rail service, having suffered on a few long-distance Amtrak trips that arrived many hours late. We got to York right on time, and walked 10 minutes to our lovely B & B, the Carlton House. Our room was very nice, had 10’ ceilings, and we were happy not to have to knock one another out of the way en route to the bathroom.
We walked into the city center and were delighted with most everything we saw. We had thought we would try Betty’s Tea Room but the line was out the door, so we ended up having plates of practically flavorless roast chicken at a place in Stonegate. We arrived at the Minster in time to tour the church and the wonderful Undercroft with its Roman and Norman ruins beneath, and when we came up we were privileged to hear a choir performing the Evensong service…such ethereal music in such a sanctified setting gave me goosebumps!
Near dusk, we left the Minster and wandered home via the Shambles. The brightly lit shop windows were lovely in the twilight and yielded some great photos.
<b>October 23rd</b> – The topic for today on the morning news show was “Badgers – cute or evil?”; a subject that’s hardly ever discussed on “Good Morning America.”
After a great breakfast at our hotel, we had planned to go to the York Castle Museum; but the day was too brilliant to spend indoors, so we walked the city walls, the Shambles, the street market and elsewhere taking way too many pictures, until it was time (shudder) to pick up our car. At the train station, we were introduced to our Fiat Punto. Both my husband and I have owned Fiats before, and this one had the typical Fiat finicky gearbox so that finding second gear was challenging at first. But soon we were on our way, headed west on the A59; husband driving as I yelped and screeched at the nearness of stone walls, hedges, parked cars and what have you. I think it is disconcerting to be a passenger sitting on the side of the car where the driving wheel should be…you feel you should be in control of the car, but you definitely are not. Anyway, nothing bad happened and a couple of hours later we were at our destination, Haworth.
We had chosen Haworth because we thought it would make a not-too-taxing “first drive” destination, and because we enjoy Jane Eyre and Wuthering Heights and were interested in visiting the Brontes’ hometown. We arrived at our B&B at 4 PM and made our way up the hill to the Bronte Parsonage Museum, arriving at 4:25 vs. a stated last admission time of 4:30. But the docent at the door said that we couldn’t possibly have enough time to tour the museum, and we could tell she really wanted to go home, so we contented ourselves with touring the church, graveyard and Haworth’s single main street. This is a very atmospheric place of gray stone and mossy slate roofs, surrounded by the bleak and desolate moors – you can see why the Brontes were inspired to write such grim tales. We took lots more photographs and finally stopped in at the jolly “Fleece” pub for good roast beef sandwiches.
Our room at the Old Registry Inn (called “The Lilac Room”) was very cute and very purple. My 6’2” husband had to “mind his head” to avoid crashing into the low ceilings.
<b>October 24th</b> – We had a great “Yorkshire style” breakfast at our hotel, then paid a visit to the steam railway station down the hill which was used during the production of “The Railway Children”. Then off to the west in our Punto, which had acquired quite a few nicknames by then. This was probably one of our most challenging driving days, as we traversed tiny narrow “B” roads where the local traffic seemed to be going impossibly fast, and then huge motorways which actually felt more comfortable to us, since we are used to multiple-lane freeways and urban traffic. Once we reached North Wales the A55, a dual carriageway, was easy and fast, and we were soon at our destination, the Bryn B&B in Conwy.
We thought we had met nice people up to now in Britain but Allison, the innkeeper at Bryn, was almost impossibly nice and funny and smart and generous. She let us use her phone, her laptop, and her fridge, did our laundry, and gave great tips about local sights and restaurants. Our room at Bryn overlooked the city walls, Conwy Castle, the estuary and Mount Snowdon…we were transfixed!
We took a tour of gray, forbidding Conwy Castle with a guide, and learned a lot about the construction and defenses of Edward I’s fortifications against the fierce Welsh. Then we had a good dinner at the Allison-recommended Dawson’s Bar, at a former coaching inn called the Castle Hotel.
<i>Next - more of Wales</i>
The 100 mph train ride from London to York was another highlight of our trip. Our one-way fares to York were less than 10 GBP each (purchased in advance from the GNER web site); this seemed like an astounding bargain to me. We found our seats with some difficulty, since the car that was marked with an “F” on the outside was marked with an “E” on the inside. We were more than ready to mark this problem up to our own stupidity, but just about everyone boarding the car had the same difficulty.
The ride to York passed very quickly, in conversation with our amiable tablemates – a French woman living in York, and a Londoner bound for Aberdeen who had grown up in Rhodesia. I was so impressed with British rail service, having suffered on a few long-distance Amtrak trips that arrived many hours late. We got to York right on time, and walked 10 minutes to our lovely B & B, the Carlton House. Our room was very nice, had 10’ ceilings, and we were happy not to have to knock one another out of the way en route to the bathroom.
We walked into the city center and were delighted with most everything we saw. We had thought we would try Betty’s Tea Room but the line was out the door, so we ended up having plates of practically flavorless roast chicken at a place in Stonegate. We arrived at the Minster in time to tour the church and the wonderful Undercroft with its Roman and Norman ruins beneath, and when we came up we were privileged to hear a choir performing the Evensong service…such ethereal music in such a sanctified setting gave me goosebumps!
Near dusk, we left the Minster and wandered home via the Shambles. The brightly lit shop windows were lovely in the twilight and yielded some great photos.
<b>October 23rd</b> – The topic for today on the morning news show was “Badgers – cute or evil?”; a subject that’s hardly ever discussed on “Good Morning America.”
After a great breakfast at our hotel, we had planned to go to the York Castle Museum; but the day was too brilliant to spend indoors, so we walked the city walls, the Shambles, the street market and elsewhere taking way too many pictures, until it was time (shudder) to pick up our car. At the train station, we were introduced to our Fiat Punto. Both my husband and I have owned Fiats before, and this one had the typical Fiat finicky gearbox so that finding second gear was challenging at first. But soon we were on our way, headed west on the A59; husband driving as I yelped and screeched at the nearness of stone walls, hedges, parked cars and what have you. I think it is disconcerting to be a passenger sitting on the side of the car where the driving wheel should be…you feel you should be in control of the car, but you definitely are not. Anyway, nothing bad happened and a couple of hours later we were at our destination, Haworth.
We had chosen Haworth because we thought it would make a not-too-taxing “first drive” destination, and because we enjoy Jane Eyre and Wuthering Heights and were interested in visiting the Brontes’ hometown. We arrived at our B&B at 4 PM and made our way up the hill to the Bronte Parsonage Museum, arriving at 4:25 vs. a stated last admission time of 4:30. But the docent at the door said that we couldn’t possibly have enough time to tour the museum, and we could tell she really wanted to go home, so we contented ourselves with touring the church, graveyard and Haworth’s single main street. This is a very atmospheric place of gray stone and mossy slate roofs, surrounded by the bleak and desolate moors – you can see why the Brontes were inspired to write such grim tales. We took lots more photographs and finally stopped in at the jolly “Fleece” pub for good roast beef sandwiches.
Our room at the Old Registry Inn (called “The Lilac Room”) was very cute and very purple. My 6’2” husband had to “mind his head” to avoid crashing into the low ceilings.
<b>October 24th</b> – We had a great “Yorkshire style” breakfast at our hotel, then paid a visit to the steam railway station down the hill which was used during the production of “The Railway Children”. Then off to the west in our Punto, which had acquired quite a few nicknames by then. This was probably one of our most challenging driving days, as we traversed tiny narrow “B” roads where the local traffic seemed to be going impossibly fast, and then huge motorways which actually felt more comfortable to us, since we are used to multiple-lane freeways and urban traffic. Once we reached North Wales the A55, a dual carriageway, was easy and fast, and we were soon at our destination, the Bryn B&B in Conwy.
We thought we had met nice people up to now in Britain but Allison, the innkeeper at Bryn, was almost impossibly nice and funny and smart and generous. She let us use her phone, her laptop, and her fridge, did our laundry, and gave great tips about local sights and restaurants. Our room at Bryn overlooked the city walls, Conwy Castle, the estuary and Mount Snowdon…we were transfixed!
We took a tour of gray, forbidding Conwy Castle with a guide, and learned a lot about the construction and defenses of Edward I’s fortifications against the fierce Welsh. Then we had a good dinner at the Allison-recommended Dawson’s Bar, at a former coaching inn called the Castle Hotel.
<i>Next - more of Wales</i>
Nov 4th, 2007, 10:03 PM
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>>The topic for today on the morning news show was “Badgers – cute or evil?”; a subject that’s hardly ever discussed on “Good Morning America.”<<
I love it! Great trip report, Azzure - I'm looking forward to reading the rest.
Lee Ann
I love it! Great trip report, Azzure - I'm looking forward to reading the rest.
Lee Ann
Nov 5th, 2007, 12:42 AM
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I have always found Londoners very pleasant.
I was there recently and travelled on buses a lot.
It was noticeable that the elderly or people with small children were never allowed to stand for too long.
Somebody would soon offer them a seat.
I was there recently and travelled on buses a lot.
It was noticeable that the elderly or people with small children were never allowed to stand for too long.
Somebody would soon offer them a seat.
Nov 5th, 2007, 03:29 AM
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azzure:
So glad you got the breakfast sorted.
We recently attended Evensong at the Minster along with about 100 others. Very uplifting indeed. My dad was a wood carver (a lost trade) and although those benches you sit on are beautiful they certainly are not very comfortable on your back. No danger here of nodding off.
Tell us more about the cost of B&B's, meals as you go. Always a huge help to all planning a visit.
Thanks for sharing.
Sandy
So glad you got the breakfast sorted.
We recently attended Evensong at the Minster along with about 100 others. Very uplifting indeed. My dad was a wood carver (a lost trade) and although those benches you sit on are beautiful they certainly are not very comfortable on your back. No danger here of nodding off.
Tell us more about the cost of B&B's, meals as you go. Always a huge help to all planning a visit.
Thanks for sharing.
Sandy
Nov 5th, 2007, 06:58 AM
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Thanks to all for your kind replies! Josser - sorry about the rugby team mix-up; you can tell I'm not really sports-aware. Sandy, on your question about costs, I can tell you that we never spent more than about 15 GBP on any restaurant meal...but my husband and I are not big eaters, and we often share a meal (maybe with two salads) if we can.
On the hotel/B&B costs so far, these were the tabs per night:
Luna & Simone, London - 85GBP
Carlton House, York - 70 GBP
Old Registry Inn, Haworth - 65 GBP
Bryn GuestHouse, Conwy - 60 GBP
Sorry about all the "GBP"s; I used to know how to HTML the "pound" sign but have sadly forgotten...
On the hotel/B&B costs so far, these were the tabs per night:
Luna & Simone, London - 85GBP
Carlton House, York - 70 GBP
Old Registry Inn, Haworth - 65 GBP
Bryn GuestHouse, Conwy - 60 GBP
Sorry about all the "GBP"s; I used to know how to HTML the "pound" sign but have sadly forgotten...
Nov 5th, 2007, 07:34 AM
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£ is made by pressing ALT and the numbers 156 on your number pad.
I have enjoyed your trip report immensely - many of the same places I have visited, and it's always nice to revisit with a new perspective!
I have enjoyed your trip report immensely - many of the same places I have visited, and it's always nice to revisit with a new perspective!
Nov 5th, 2007, 07:43 AM
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Have just returned from a hol in US and was surprised at how much eating out cost, and stated in my report that eating out in the UK (once you get out of London) need not break the bank.
Lovely reading all the nice things you're saying about the UK, it is a wonderful country and I for one love living here.
It may seem strange us debating Badgers etc in UK but thats what i love about the British, our eccentricity, especially towards animals, long may we care..
I think you have a lovely manner and a really interesting way of writing, your reports leaves one wanting more...
Lovely reading all the nice things you're saying about the UK, it is a wonderful country and I for one love living here.
It may seem strange us debating Badgers etc in UK but thats what i love about the British, our eccentricity, especially towards animals, long may we care..
I think you have a lovely manner and a really interesting way of writing, your reports leaves one wanting more...
Nov 5th, 2007, 07:51 AM
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Testing - £!! Thanks a lot!
Thanks to everyone for your responses; I will try to write more today (though I believe I'm actually expected to accomplish something at work today grumble grumble).
Thanks to everyone for your responses; I will try to write more today (though I believe I'm actually expected to accomplish something at work today grumble grumble).
