![]() |
Off the Beaten Trail in Santorini
Now that I have all our transportation figured out (as much as I can until the ferry schedule is announced) I'm looking for suggestions on how to spend about 3 days on Santorini.
My husband and I are in our late twenties. We have pretty eclectic interests. Sometimes we like to stay in very luxurious places, but are just as happy in a tent. The same goes for our activities. We love nature and art - but at a pretty amateur level for the latter. Husband just purchased his first digital SLR and is taking photography classes prior to our trip. We are looking for some lesser touristy things to fill our time on Santorini. We know that this is one of the most popular islands and are not kidding ourselves (the reason we have chosen Folegandros for our second island). We will be there in late May early June. So far, I read about the gallery/winery Artspace which looks very neat. I forgot the name of the village, Exo something... Any other suggestions for some unique experiences? We're not huge into tours, but prefer to do things on our own. So any cute shops, galleries, restaurants, views, walks, etc. are up our alley. Another important note is that we will both be in the middle of training for an upcoming triathlon, so places we have to trek to are not out of the question as it could serve as our workout for that day. :) |
Blue Star Ferries and Hellenic Seaways both have schedules posted now.
www.bluestarferries.com http://www.ferries.gr/hfd/ For fun and exercise walk down the steps below Oia to Amoudi, then 1/4 mile along the seawall that begins on the wharf to the best swimming on the island. Have lunch at Katina's Fish Taverna on the wharf. There's another hiking trail between Perissa Beach and Kamari Beach that passes by the historical site of Ancient Thera at the summit of the trail. |
Why not climb to Ancient Thira?!? I can guarantee you that it won't be thronged with tourists, because it requires effort! NObody else was there on a fine late-May day with us. You can take the steep 3KM dirt path, or you can get a cab (as we did) for the 4KM twisting corkscrew road (16 switchbacks); but it stops at a turn-around and you STILL have a steep 1/2 clmb on a goat path, to the top... but it's worth it!
Acres & acres of higgedly-piggledy ruins with no signage (the T. Cook "Greek Island Hopping" book gives layout & I.D.s) -- but the VIEW is super. Your husband's SLR will be humming ... and these pix will be different from the usual Santorini shots. Walking down the 4km also will enable you to enjoy dessert without guilt at dinner. |
I meant a 1/2 HOUR climb on the goat path (tho it felt like longer!!)..
|
Here’s our three suggestions for you. We stayed in Oia, at Ikies boutique hotel during our stay so these suggestions are based on our location there. Not to worry though. The bus service from Fira to Oia is fast, cheap and excellent. Judging from your interests of recreation, wine, good food and since you’re obviously in great shape, the hike from Fira to Oia along the Caldera will be a day you’ll appreciate. If you haven’t yet booked your hotel, given your interests, we would suggest Oia rather than Fira. Less touristy, and more peaceful and atmospheric in our view.
1. The southeastern edge of Oia is “the doorstep” of the starting point (or exit point, depending what direction you do the hike) for the Oia-Fira hiking trail. When we went in May of 05 we had planned on spending the better part of one day hiking to Fira along the rim following a good map and hiking book we had found. This was an incredible experience and anyone in half-decent shape for walking (and climbing), and with time to spare, should not miss this unique hike while in Santorini. Just up from the parking lot above Ikies (also located near the water-treatment plant – don’t worry it isn’t a visible presence) the trail begins with a gradual climb up the hill side in a south-easterly direction. Within about 10 minutes from the entrance to Ikies, after passing a small complex and a couple of caves, hikers taking on the challenge will find themselves high above Oia with a spectacular view of the Caldera on the one side, and the entire north eastern side of the island stretching away to the sea on the other side. The walking trail continues on (and up) to the south along the rim of the Caldera, briefly joining the highway for about 250 meters. The walk will take you all the way to Fira . Although the last three kilometers of the hike are within the built-up settlements the majority of the hike nearest to Oia is secluded, remote and very peaceful with panoramic views of parts of Santorini that I suspect most visitors never see. A link to a good website which describes the walk is: http://www.cycladen.be/SantoriniEng.htm. There is also a great little book with the walks outlined called “Walking the Aegean Islands – Twenty Islands of the Greek Cyclades” by Graf Editions. I think it is available through Amazon. We started early in the morning and the walk, at a leisurely pace was about 4 to 5 hours if I recall. The views are spectacular and that new digital camera will get a workout. Some of our favourite pics are from this walk. In Fira we had a wonderful relaxing lunch and took the bus back to Oia. If you are staying near Fira, you can do the walk in reverse. Sturdy walking shoes are sandals are a must. 2. If you are inclined to participate in the island/tourist activity of watching the sunset in Oia you might consider a private sunset for two on the hillside in Oia. One evening (when I first discovered how close the trail was to our hotel - Ikies) I was struck with the impromptu romantic idea of a private sunset party-for-two. Rather than joining the crowds of tourist herding to the north point of Oia for the evening sunset ritual, I grabbed a bottle of wine, a couple of glasses and dragged my wife up the hill side. Just a few meters beyond a small lovely blue-domed church on the hill south of Oia we stopped and turned around to discover a spectacular panorama spread out below. All by ourselves (well almost - there was a donkey grazing nearby), in an almost surreal peaceful silence, we sat on a rock wall, surrounded by wild thyme and sage, sipping a glass of wine and watched an incredible sunset play out before us. It felt like we were being treated to our own private IMAX movie. I’m not sure how many people are aware of this opportunity in Oia – but we thought this was a great idea. We thought this was a great relaxing way to end a day. Again, your fitness level won’t hinder you and this is not only “off the beaten trail” it’s “up the beaten trail” so it should fit into your request. You will have to make sure you start down the hill again before it gets too dark, so you can see your way along the path. We had no problem. If you are staying in Fira instead of Oia, you will have to check the bus schedule for the last buses back to Fira . The bus stop is at the farther end of the settlement from the south side of Oia (where you climb to the church). 3. The third outing not to be missed in Oia is a trip to the Sigalas Winery. Located just across the street from Ikies (again at the south end of the settlement), about 700 meters down the road, the Sigalas Winery is a lovely oasis of good food and wine tucked away among the vineyards surrounding Oia. We set out for a short walk one afternoon anticipating a quick visit to the winery, a bit of wine tasting, and maybe buying a bottle or two. Some four hours later we trundled back up the road having enjoyed a great afternoon of good food, good wine, and a nice tour of the winery. The young lady who gave us the tour and looked after us was Pati an oenology student from Athens. The Sigalas Winery is intimate and relaxed. During the tour we happened upon Mr. Sigalas himself doing some filtering and tasting in the cellar. The real attributes of the Sigalas winery were upstairs however. We picked a table on the almost deserted terrace beneath vine leaves and fig trees and enjoyed a great wine tasting session. Not willing to stop there, were ordered a few plates of Mezes off of the menu. A variety of Santorini cheeses, a bread salad, cod with sun dried tomatoes and capers -- it was all wonderful and we ate to our hearts content. Of course we ordered up glasses of our favourite Sigalas white wine, followed by a glass of that heavenly sweet wine of Santorini – Vin Santo. (The Sigalas Vin Santo is exceptional!) The sun was shining, we were in a vineyard with a view of the sea, the birds were chirping, the food was great, the wine was great – life was good. We bought three bottles of Vin Santo and began our ascent up the hill back to Oia. If you like wine and good food, don’t miss a visit to the Sigalas Winery. We would also agree with Brotherleelove’s suggestions (all his suggestions are excellent) on Katina’s down at Ammoudi. We went a couple of times during our week there and it is a great way to spend an afternoon. There you go. Part of the above is an excerpt from a review we did of our stay at the Ikies hotel in Oia. If you go to Tripadvisor and punch in “Ikies” in the hotels for Santorini you’ll find the long review we posted which includes some photos (like your Husband I was breaking in a new camera on the trip) and part of the above excerpts. When I read your post – I thought these suggestions might fit the bill. You should get your workouts. We’re going back to Santorini again in early May for a couple of days between Crete and Folegandros. We’re hoping to repeat the trip to the winery, and the sunset on the hillside. We will be doing some alternate walks and have walks planned for Folegandros. (The same web site and book above also have walks on Folegandros.) Have a great trip – you’ll have a blast! |
I thought that the villages of Pirgos and Megalochori (sp?) were lovely and were not inundated with tourists in late September..Pirgos, especially, requires a bit of steep walking.
|
a
|
Bookmarking.
|
Thank you everyone for such thoughtful responses. These are exactly the types of things that I was looking for. We are in fact staying in Oia while on the island. Dave, you will be there a few weeks before us so I'd love to hear of any new adventures you have in Santorini and your findings of Folegandros.
|
jkl370 - If Air France gets us back without a hitch (we have tight connections at CDG)we should be back home on the 23rd of May. If you haven't departed by then I'll certainly try to pass on any "must do's" for you. You'll love Oia. We're really looking forward to Folegandros.
Dave |
We don't leave until the 27th, so hopefully you will be home and rested by then!
I've been looking at the hiking website and it is a wealth of knowledge. I will definitely be printing out a bunch of those hikes for the trip. Thanks for the tip. |
bookmarking
|
| All times are GMT -8. The time now is 08:19 PM. |