Oct./Nov. Honeymoon in Paris, Venice and Rome
 

My fiance (soon to be husband) and I will be honeymooning in Paris, Venice and Rome. We're trying to keep things on the cheap with the occasional splurge on a decadent dinner or day trip. Also, romantic ideas are appropriate (and encouraged)!

ABOUT US: Early thirties, adventurous travelers with a soft spot for art, wine, local food, live music, dive bars, open air markets and stretching a dollar (or euro). I'm a vegetarian. Fiance is not.

OUR TRIP:
Paris: October 28 - November 1 (staying at the Westin Vendome)
Venice: November 2 - 5 (staying at the hotel Danieli)
Rome: November 6 - 9 (staying at the Westin Excelsior)

We have very good friends who live in Rome, so the bulk of our concern is over the best ways to get around and best cheap eats/dive bars/local parks/open markets/thrift stores in Paris. To be honest, Venice is all about lounging for us. Suggestions for eats and cocktails welcome.

Thanks in advance for your help. I've been so busy planning the wedding I've completely neglected the honeymoon :(

Your location in Paris is good for getting to the major sites. You might look at O Chateau for wine tastings or just to go and sip some wine. A plate of charcuterie can do for dinner. I think it is relatively close to your hotel.

We like Le Souffle because in Paris, we have to have at least one souffle. We also like to end every night in Paris (and Rome) with something sparkling. It's a good tradition.

Paris is easy to get around and the same tickets you use for the Metro can also be used on the buses. Buy a carnet of 10 and you will be set. You should also check to see if there will be any concerts at Sainte Chapelle while you are there.

For markets near your hotel:

http://goparis.about.com/od/shopping...t-Of-Paris.htm

In Rome, pizza from Forno or Roscioli in Campo dei Fiori is an expensive lunch.

It's been too long since I have been to Venice to be of any help. But I would hit Harry's for a bellini.

For Paris, if the weather cooperates, do a picnic in Luxembourg Gardens and tour the building.
From there you can walk the Latin Quarter.

By far, our two favorite things in Paris -

A bike tour at night = magical
http://paris.fattirebiketours.com/tours/

Lunch in the Eiffel Tower at Jules Verne -
http://www.lejulesverne-paris.com/
Three course prix fixe meal = the best splurge of the trip
We stayed in the lounge a little longer to enjoy the view and just being there

Loved just wandering the city. Much smaller than I expected.
Wandered here on the first day for lunch. Turns out it's one of ira's favorites -
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restauran...de_France.html

Loved stumbling on Laduree -
http://www.laduree.com/douceurs/?___store=en

We enjoyed getting around the city on the hop-on, hop-off bus (gasp!). An easy way to navigate the city and soak up the sights.
The bike tour includes a boat ride on the Seine.

If I had a day and a half in Paris, I would definitely repeat all of the above.

One of the best things we liked about eating in Paris was that availability of SO many cafe's and bistros where you could eat well for not a lot of money. The menu's are always posted outside the restaurant often with a blackboard showing the days' specials. The plat du jour is often the way to go, as it is the best price and a very local type meal. The best deal is to do a "le menu or Formule" [like what we call prix fixe] which offers a 2 course meal [appetizer and entree OR entree and dessert] for a set price. Sometimes a glass of wine is included. An appetizer is called "entree" in French and the entree is the "plat". Another tip is not to order Cokes etc with a meal. They are one of THE most expensive things to drink. Ask for a bottle of tap water and it is free usually. If you don't speak french, at least get a list of food items so you know the what the various dishes contain.
http://french.about.com/od/vocabulary/a/menu.htm
http://french.about.com/od/vocabulary/a/restaurant.htm

Hi!

Looks like you have Rome covered if you have good friends living there.

Here are a few suggestions for Venice:

Stroll along the Zattere

Have dinner at La Zucca

For a really lovely afternoon, the Hotel Cipriani has a free water taxi that leaves from St. Marks. Have drinks on the Fortuny Terrace at the hotel.

The Guggenheim Museum is wonderful.

Just walking around us fabulous. Loved the neighborhoods of San Polo, Santa Croce and Dorsoduro.

I Frari is an amazing church.

That's all I can think of off the top of my head. I'll get back to you with more. :-)

Sitting in St. Marks at night at Florian and listening to the bands is magical.

Johanna

For breakfasts - go to a corner Tabac. STAND at the bar, order your coffee and croissant or pain au chocolate and do like the locals. If you sit down inside, it will cost more. If you sit down outside, even more.

For lunches - go to a Boulangerie or Patisserie and buy some baguette sandwiches for a picnic lunch. Or just buy a baguette and then some cheese and fruit from a corner shop or produce stand. A brownie [fondant] or cookie from Patisserie will make a nice dessert. Voila! A pic-nique.

We have always enjoyed having lunch or wine on the terrace at Cafe Marley, overlooking the pyramid at the Louvre.
http://www.beaumarly.com/en/cafe-marly/home

Instead of dining on top of the Eiffel Tower, why not dine where you can watch it sparkle?
http://www.lesombres-restaurant.com/fr/

Really, though, there's a cafe or restaurant on every corner and it's fun just to read the menus in the window and stop when something looks good. You can easily walk to almost anywhere in the city, and the Metro is great if you don't want to walk.

Forgot to tell you, I love this company to get to and from the airport in Rome.

http://www.limoservicerome.com/site/...INFO.html#2909

agree with the Fat Tire Night Bike Ride, Danielle. That was one of the highlights of my trip to Paris.

Try to make it to Notre Dame when the choir is singing, Holy Moly that was the coolest. Also don't miss Sacre Coeur!

Sorry I can't make it to the wedding, but I'll be there in spirit. ;)

St. Chapelle is a must see too - a concert at night is lovely, but during the day with the sun streaming in through the windows is beautiful.

Hi again!

For great reastaurant advice, you need to download Elizabeth Minchilli's Eat Rome and Eat Venice apps.


Johanna

This bike tour was the highlight of one of my trips to Paris: http://www.bikeabouttours.com/

Looks like you've gotten a lot of great ideas. One thing I can add for Venice is sitting in the evening at an outdoor table at Osteria Bancogiro. One of my all time favorite spots to enjoy the Grand Canal at night. http://www.osteriabancogiro.it/

If you like museums, the Accademia has some wonderful works in it.

There's so much to see and enjoy in Venice just wandering the quaint alleys and bridges in the short time you are there. As you said it's a wonderful place to just relax. However, if you want to see another area you could take the vaporetto to Burano. Very charming with all the colorful houses and the ride across the lagoon is nice.

I see you aren't getting any recs for dive bars. I'm thinking that maybe your hotels combined with the idea of dive bars is creating a little cognitive dissonance.

I'm no expert on dive bars, and I will leave Rome to your friends, but I will say that in Venice, I have been told that when Venetians go out for cheap drinks (wine, I guess) they head to Castello.

Since you are interested in art, Castello is the home of the Biennale (at the Arsenale and Giardini locations) which isn't over until November. I strongly urge a visit.

I've stayed at the Westin Excelsior in Rome and the Danieli in Venice, and they are lovely properties. You should enjoy them.

My favorite restaurant in Venice is Ristorante da Ivo. It is very small and romantic. It is very expensive, but the service and food were both great. You can access it on foot or by boat via the water door. It is in the San Marco area. My boyfriend and I loved it.

Since you are staying there, I'm sure you will visit the rooftop terrace at the Danieli. We had breakfast there each morning, but dinner was also nice. There is a terrific view.

After dinner, go to Piazza San Marco and sit at one of the cafes (Florian, Quadri or Lavena) for drinks, coffee or dessert if it is warm enough. They all have orchestras that play (weather permitting), and some romantic couples even dance.

If you are into a gondola ride, I would recommend doing it at dusk; the light is so lovely. The gondola stand near Santa Maria del Giglio is good because with that location you get a nice combo of smaller rios and a stint on the Grand Canal.

If you like art, definitely visit the Borghese Gallery in Rome. You can walk from your hotel. However, you have to have advance reservations; make them as soon as you can.

Cheap indulgences in Paris:

Every day eat a different item from a different patisserie. Be sure to get a barquette aux marrons.

Truffles from Maison de Chocolat (well, cheap is a relative thing)

On a nice afternoon, sit at a cafe outdoors and people watch while sipping a citron presse' (a sort of do it yourself lemonade, with fresh lemon juice and a bit of ice, a pitcher of water, sugar, and a spoon). Judicious slow additions of sugar and water and frequent stirring with less frequent sipping increases the people watching time.

See if there is a concert of medieval music at Cluny Museum of the Middle Ages.

Check out the Ethnologic collection at the Louvre. Last time I was there it was near the Lions Gate entrance, which, by the way, had the shortest line to get in.

Check out http://www.secretsofparis.com/

In Rome: Gelateria del Teatro ai Coronari and Osteria Barberini

There are several wine bars not far from where you're staying in Paris - La Garde Robe, Juveniles, Verjus, Willi's - that serve anywhere from cheese/charcuterie/light bites to a full meal. For a boulangerie, there's an Eric Kayser on Rue Danielle Casanova and there are branches of Pierre Herme, Hugo et Victor and Jean Paul Hevin nearby for pastries.

DebitM

Have you found tabacs that do coffee, etc?

I only know them as small shops selling, well, tabacco products and Metro carnets and a few odds and ends.

Sorry, brain cramp. Bar-Tabac of course.