Nov, Dec, Jan or Feb - which winter month for Venice?
 

Well, I've been home for a whole two weeks from my last trip, so clearly it's time to start planning the next - Venice this winter. So far I've spent a whole three hours there between trains (vaporetto to San Marco, to Rialto, lunch, tiny wander) but it was more than long enough for me to fall in love with the place. Actually, five minutes was long enough! So now I want to go back for a week, maybe two. But it will have to be in the winter - not only do I not want to deal with the heat and crowds of summer, I'll need to find a single room for 50-70 euros a night. (If I can get it down to 50, I might manage a splurge for the last couple of nights...) So, Venice gurus, is there any reason to pick one winter month over another? Better weather? Not-to-be-missed festival (I know I can't afford Carnivale)? If it helps, I'd opt for cooler and drier over warmer and wetter. Also, does anyone know of a rental agency that handles studio apartments rather than places that sleep 4-6? Thanks!

I've been to Venice in November and for New Years, and both were brisk/cold, but punctuated by sunny days. I'm guessing there's not a huge difference in terms of weather between the options, so go with what's best for you. For what it's worth, Venice at New Years was a lot of fun, and much cheaper than during Carnivale.

I believe the festival where they build a bridge from gondolas to the church of Santa Maria della Salute is in mid- to late- November.

Check to see if November is at higher risk for the Acqua Alta. This is the high water phenomenon where lower lying parts of venice (like st marks square) is prone to flooding. I seem to recall its November and April but you might want to research.

I would suggest Jan.-Feb. the weeks before Carnevale or the week after- you'll get some of your lowest rates then, plus the weather may be drier than in the fall, which is traditionally the "high season" if you will, of acqua alta. Acqua alta is at its most frequent in late Oct. Nov., Dec., time period.

You could probably find places in Santa Croce/Cannaregio for 50-70E for a single during the time period in question-you can look at www.eurocheapo.com, www.venere.com for ideas-and then go to the actual website of a particular B&B to see if you can get a better deal.

As for a studio rental, check with Denise at www.venicerentals.com. She is an American married to a Venetian, who owns this company -she has a good selection of rentals, and is quite helpful.

Good points about the acqua alta - thanks. I found a site that says the high tides tend to occur with full or new moons - maybe I need to check a moon chart!

Here is some more info about the high water - might be fun to see it and I don't think its the whole city so you could stay somewhere "higher".

http://europeforvisitors.com/venice/...acqua-alta.htm

Thanks chicagolori - that's an interesting web site. Looks like finding an apartment for under 80 euros a night is going to be tough, though.

I've spent Thanksgiving week (late Nov) in Venice the past 2 years...have yet to experience acqua alta. Love Venice in November -- quiet and beautiful.

TexasAggie has it right -- the festival della Salute is in November on the 21st. The temporary bridge for the festival was once made of gondolas, but now is just a plain/regular temporary bridge made of metal with railings.

I was there over Christmas. We had acqua alta several days and the vaps stopped running because they couldn't get under the bridges. It was very cold and rainy. I would certainly choose November over the other months.

If you are going for a week or two in winter, renting an apartment would probably be the best way to go. Check out the Slow Travel website for recommendations.

Christmastime is high season, so don't expect bargains in that window.

Also do searches for "bed-breakfast Venice."

Thursdays-if you go to venere.com right now, and put in hypothetical dates of Jan 2007, I see several properties available in Venice both 3 star and 2 star, that offer single rooms for between 50-70Es a night, so yes, it absolutely can be done.

For scheduling reasons (I'm hoping to make it to Central Asia next spring) I'm leaning to late Nov to early Dec, or perhaps mid Jan. I plan to take boots for all the walking I expect to do, high water or not, but having the vaporettos stop running would be a drag. Any votes for Feb?

Thanks for the hotel sites. Also, will the islands be worth visiting in the winter (aside from Murano, where I'll be looking at glass)?

You don't need to go to Murano to look for glass, you'll find all you want, and much more, at the numerous artisanal shops all over Venice proper. Some of the shops on Venice even offer glass blowing demonstrations.

In terms of whether the islands are "worth it" depends on you-with a vaporetto pass you can choose to go to all 3 whenever you want, so just pick a day. Personally I'm no great fan of any of the 3, but a lot of people do like one or the other. I enjoy the boat ride out more than the islands themselves (those islands-however I do like Chioggia a lot, Chioggia being somewhat like a miniature version of Venice, but it's considerably more involved to get there than the 3 in question).

The island of Torcello is always worth visiting, and in the wintertime it has a particularly quiet, lost-in-time feel. The vaporetto ride out there is on the long side (40 minutes), over open water, so be sure to have warm clothes for that. There are only two lunch places on Torcello, Ponte Al Diavolo and the very pricey Locanda Cipriani, so you might want to stop for lunch in Burano or else take food with you.

If you end up renting an apartment, seriously consider packing a thermos of some sort with you. That way, you can make yourself some hot tea to take along with you as you spend time walking and visiting churches. Even if you stay in a B&B, I bet the owner would be willing to fill up your thermos.

If you are going to be in Venezia for a week or more, you also might consider visiting nearby Padova to see the Scrovegni Chapel and the cathedral (especially its bapistery). But Venezia, at a leisurely pace, easily has full week's worth of treasures.

The shops and galleries of the Dorsoduro often have beautiful art glass and other Venetian craft.

I'm more interested in the demo (and browsing) than actually buying glass - I'm trying to reduce the amount of "stuff" in my house - so I'm interested to hear I can do that in Venice "proper", although I'll probably still do the islands - but I'll take earmuffs! Will have to check into Chioggia - hadn't heard of it before.

Since it looks like I can get down to 50 euros/night, I'm leaning towards two weeks rather than one, which would definitely allow for day trips. Revisiting Ferrara and Ravenna for sure, but other suggestions like Padova welcome.

I've visited Venice in November, December and the end of January-early February (before Carnivale) and loved it every time. The acqua alta's only last a few hours and as they are both weather and lunar cycle caused only happen for a few days at a time. I certainly wouldn't use them as a reason not to go. Late Jan-early February was the quietest of the 3 times. The busiest was in the few days before Christmas and between Christmas and New Year. The weather was cold, but mainly fine - in all 3 trips (totaling 65 days) I only had my umbrella up twice!.
Try www.veniceapartments.org for studio apartments. They have more apartments than are listed on their website. This year I rented a studio apartment (Grandengio) right near San Toma vaporetto stop for 60 euros a night from them. It's not on their website. You can see my review of the apartment at: www.slowtrav.com/italy/vr/review.asp?n=1951

If you're going to go for so long, please also consider a daytrip to Verona -- we loved it last year.

You might also want to check www.veniceby.com for lodging ideas.