Notes on Florence, Lucca, Bevagna, Orvieto & Rome - Sept 10 to Oct 4, 2013
Nov 12th, 2013, 03:55 PM
#81
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Tue Oct 1
DH & I were well-rested for our art history lesson with <b>Daniella Hunt</b> (www.rome-tours.com) this morning. Based on our tour of the Vatican Museums & St Peter's Basilica together (2011), we knew that a visit to <b>Villa Farnesina</b> would be greatly enhanced accompanied by Daniella. We also knew that she was knowledgeable, high-energy and fun! We were ready to be engaged and to learn!
The Villa Farnesina was commissioned by Agostino Chigi, a prosperous Papal banker to Baldassarre Peruzzi in the early 1500's. It was built as a summer palace in the Trastevere neighbourhood. Among the different artists that contributed to the villa's decorations was Raphael and his school.
We spent most of our time examining the frescoed ceilings in two loggias which are now enclosed. The first depicted the myth of the marriage between Cupid and Psyche. It was designed by Raphael. Simply stunning! Peruzzi painted Chigi's horoscope on the ceiling of the second loggia. (We discovered that our background knowledge of the star signs was sadly lacking! So, some 'remedial' instruction was required!) This was fascinating stuff!
We went into the Hall of Perspectives with its trompe-l'oeil frescoes of an open loggia with city and country views beyond. This gave the room visual expanse. German mercenaries defaced part of one wall (1527) and the graffiti still remains.
We moved into a bedroom which was decorated with scenes of Alexander the Great and Roxane in their bedchamber.
It was all magnificent - the villa & its decorations. And it was beautifully presented by Daniella! Through her stories, the Villa Farnesina became more than just a pretty house. Today DH & I saw some of the most stunning Renaissance art we have seen in Rome!
More to follow ...
DH & I were well-rested for our art history lesson with <b>Daniella Hunt</b> (www.rome-tours.com) this morning. Based on our tour of the Vatican Museums & St Peter's Basilica together (2011), we knew that a visit to <b>Villa Farnesina</b> would be greatly enhanced accompanied by Daniella. We also knew that she was knowledgeable, high-energy and fun! We were ready to be engaged and to learn!
The Villa Farnesina was commissioned by Agostino Chigi, a prosperous Papal banker to Baldassarre Peruzzi in the early 1500's. It was built as a summer palace in the Trastevere neighbourhood. Among the different artists that contributed to the villa's decorations was Raphael and his school.
We spent most of our time examining the frescoed ceilings in two loggias which are now enclosed. The first depicted the myth of the marriage between Cupid and Psyche. It was designed by Raphael. Simply stunning! Peruzzi painted Chigi's horoscope on the ceiling of the second loggia. (We discovered that our background knowledge of the star signs was sadly lacking! So, some 'remedial' instruction was required!) This was fascinating stuff!
We went into the Hall of Perspectives with its trompe-l'oeil frescoes of an open loggia with city and country views beyond. This gave the room visual expanse. German mercenaries defaced part of one wall (1527) and the graffiti still remains.
We moved into a bedroom which was decorated with scenes of Alexander the Great and Roxane in their bedchamber.
It was all magnificent - the villa & its decorations. And it was beautifully presented by Daniella! Through her stories, the Villa Farnesina became more than just a pretty house. Today DH & I saw some of the most stunning Renaissance art we have seen in Rome!
More to follow ...
Nov 13th, 2013, 07:30 AM
#82
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Tue Oct 1 continued ...
The day was hot so the shady outdoor seating at <b>Pizzeria De Poeta</b> was welcomed. So were the delicious pizzas & cold beer!
After lunch, we poked around the Trastevere neighbourhood a bit. And that's what it felt like ... a neighbourhood where people lived and worked. It was charming! We ended at the <b>Basilica di Santa Maria in Trastevere</b>. We had forgotten how beautiful the interior of the church was with its Byzantine-style mosaics on the chancel arch.
We went back to the hotel in the heat and through the crowds. Nap time.
We had a dinner reservation at <b>Hosteria Costanza</b> located in the remains of the tiers of the Pompeo Theatre. Fantastic room! Wonderful ambience! Superb food! Good service! We shared an antipasti starter: fried zucchini flowers, deep-fried olives & stuffed rice balls. We shared turbot with roasted potatoes & artichokes. Dessert: gelato, panna cotta. Drinks: usual assortment. Excellent dining experience!
We sauntered back to the Cesari on this balmy October evening! It was lovely!
The day was hot so the shady outdoor seating at <b>Pizzeria De Poeta</b> was welcomed. So were the delicious pizzas & cold beer!
After lunch, we poked around the Trastevere neighbourhood a bit. And that's what it felt like ... a neighbourhood where people lived and worked. It was charming! We ended at the <b>Basilica di Santa Maria in Trastevere</b>. We had forgotten how beautiful the interior of the church was with its Byzantine-style mosaics on the chancel arch.
We went back to the hotel in the heat and through the crowds. Nap time.
We had a dinner reservation at <b>Hosteria Costanza</b> located in the remains of the tiers of the Pompeo Theatre. Fantastic room! Wonderful ambience! Superb food! Good service! We shared an antipasti starter: fried zucchini flowers, deep-fried olives & stuffed rice balls. We shared turbot with roasted potatoes & artichokes. Dessert: gelato, panna cotta. Drinks: usual assortment. Excellent dining experience!
We sauntered back to the Cesari on this balmy October evening! It was lovely!
Nov 13th, 2013, 07:49 PM
#85
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<b>maitaitom</b>: I'm a big fan of yours and have followed many of your amazing journeys! Thanks for coming along on mine!
<b>hanabilly</b>: Umbria does have its own special charm. It keeps drawing us back and one day, you will return there, too!
<b>hanabilly</b>: Umbria does have its own special charm. It keeps drawing us back and one day, you will return there, too!
Nov 13th, 2013, 09:42 PM
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Wed Oct 2
Well, there was no denying it ... I had a terrible head cold! I armed myself with antihistamines and tissues. Nothing was going to hold me back. After all, we only had a few more days in Rome!
It was DH's turn to do some shopping. First thing this morning, we went to <b>Fincato</b>. It's a handsome shop with pipes, cigars and accessories arranged in glass cases and on dark wood shelves. DH knew what he wanted - a box of Tuscan cigars. After he made his purchase, we were taken for a tour of the upstairs: a series of small, elegant rooms; a large walk-in humidor which housed cigars; and displays of old tin tobacco boxes and other cigar/pipe-related paraphernalia.
Next: <b>Musei Capitolini</b> - This place was filled to the brim with Roman antiquities and paintings by the likes of Tintoretto, Caravaggio and Titian. There was also an exciting special exhibit, <i>Archimedes, Art & Science of the Invention</i>. We took a break in the museum's cafeteria and then spent time on the terrace. From there we spotted several sites around Rome including St Peter's Basilica, the Pantheon and the back of the Victor Emmanuel Monument. The Capitolini Museums deserved more time and attention than I could muster today. And of course, the architecture and the interior spaces were as significant as the collections they housed. If only I had felt better.
Later in the afternoon, I had a rejuvenating nap.
And that evening, we had a simple but good dinner at <b>Sabatino a S. Ignazio</b> followed by a gentle stroll back to the hotel. Oh, how I enjoy that lovely Italian ritual!
Well, there was no denying it ... I had a terrible head cold! I armed myself with antihistamines and tissues. Nothing was going to hold me back. After all, we only had a few more days in Rome!
It was DH's turn to do some shopping. First thing this morning, we went to <b>Fincato</b>. It's a handsome shop with pipes, cigars and accessories arranged in glass cases and on dark wood shelves. DH knew what he wanted - a box of Tuscan cigars. After he made his purchase, we were taken for a tour of the upstairs: a series of small, elegant rooms; a large walk-in humidor which housed cigars; and displays of old tin tobacco boxes and other cigar/pipe-related paraphernalia.
Next: <b>Musei Capitolini</b> - This place was filled to the brim with Roman antiquities and paintings by the likes of Tintoretto, Caravaggio and Titian. There was also an exciting special exhibit, <i>Archimedes, Art & Science of the Invention</i>. We took a break in the museum's cafeteria and then spent time on the terrace. From there we spotted several sites around Rome including St Peter's Basilica, the Pantheon and the back of the Victor Emmanuel Monument. The Capitolini Museums deserved more time and attention than I could muster today. And of course, the architecture and the interior spaces were as significant as the collections they housed. If only I had felt better.
Later in the afternoon, I had a rejuvenating nap.
And that evening, we had a simple but good dinner at <b>Sabatino a S. Ignazio</b> followed by a gentle stroll back to the hotel. Oh, how I enjoy that lovely Italian ritual!
Nov 14th, 2013, 06:00 AM
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Wonderful! Was Raphael as famous then as now? Imagine living with all that art in your house.
ps-It was at Farnesina that my husband asked why there weren't more Italian tap dancers. Maybe the marble floors would be too slippery?
ps-It was at Farnesina that my husband asked why there weren't more Italian tap dancers. Maybe the marble floors would be too slippery?
Nov 14th, 2013, 07:08 AM
#88
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Hi TDudette:
Amazing how many artists died poor and unknown only later to be 'discovered' and their work deemed priceless! I imagine Raphael was busy with all his commissions around town!
Being surrounded by all that art does boggle the mind! I also wonder whether furnishings in the rooms at Farnesina detracted from the decorated walls and ceilings. Guess that was the 'trend' then!
Amazing how many artists died poor and unknown only later to be 'discovered' and their work deemed priceless! I imagine Raphael was busy with all his commissions around town!
Being surrounded by all that art does boggle the mind! I also wonder whether furnishings in the rooms at Farnesina detracted from the decorated walls and ceilings. Guess that was the 'trend' then!
Nov 14th, 2013, 02:05 PM
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Thurs Oct 3
"How crowded could it be at <b>St Peter's</b>? This was October, after all!" we wondered naively.
We were approached numerous times to buy tickets for beat-the-line tours of St Peter's Basilica. Ahead, we could see throngs of people lined up in a zig-zag formation on Piazza San Pietro. No thanks, we thought!
Surprisingly, the line moved steadily. Once through security, we scurried into the basilica. It was tricky to navigate around the tour groups but we got to see what we wanted: Michelangelo's Pieta, Bernini's Balacchino, the dome and other parts of the opulent interior. We were in awe of the marble work and mosaics throughout. This was a spur-of-the-moment decision to visit St Peter's Basilica again and we were so glad that we did!
Not far from the entrance to the Vatican Museums, we found <b>Osteria delle Commari</b>. The interior was cool, serene, relaxing. The food was fantastic! We had an appetizer of eggplant, tomato & cheese. DH had ravioli with tomatoes and I had cacao e pepe (pecorino cheese, pepper and hand-made pasta). I wished I had discovered this dish earlier in our stay. Oh my gosh, it was delicious! Beverages: micro-brew beer & bottled water.
Our feasting continued later that night. We went to <b>Hosteria Costanza</b> for dinner again. We shared the Costanza's version of cacao e pepe to start. We both had the roasted pork with potatoes and a side dish of green beans. Dessert: gelato for DH and tiramisu for me. Beverages: house red wine - we paid for what we drank; coffee. The requisite after-dinner walk followed. It was a lovely way to spend our last night in Rome ... our final night in Italy!
"How crowded could it be at <b>St Peter's</b>? This was October, after all!" we wondered naively.
We were approached numerous times to buy tickets for beat-the-line tours of St Peter's Basilica. Ahead, we could see throngs of people lined up in a zig-zag formation on Piazza San Pietro. No thanks, we thought!
Surprisingly, the line moved steadily. Once through security, we scurried into the basilica. It was tricky to navigate around the tour groups but we got to see what we wanted: Michelangelo's Pieta, Bernini's Balacchino, the dome and other parts of the opulent interior. We were in awe of the marble work and mosaics throughout. This was a spur-of-the-moment decision to visit St Peter's Basilica again and we were so glad that we did!
Not far from the entrance to the Vatican Museums, we found <b>Osteria delle Commari</b>. The interior was cool, serene, relaxing. The food was fantastic! We had an appetizer of eggplant, tomato & cheese. DH had ravioli with tomatoes and I had cacao e pepe (pecorino cheese, pepper and hand-made pasta). I wished I had discovered this dish earlier in our stay. Oh my gosh, it was delicious! Beverages: micro-brew beer & bottled water.
Our feasting continued later that night. We went to <b>Hosteria Costanza</b> for dinner again. We shared the Costanza's version of cacao e pepe to start. We both had the roasted pork with potatoes and a side dish of green beans. Dessert: gelato for DH and tiramisu for me. Beverages: house red wine - we paid for what we drank; coffee. The requisite after-dinner walk followed. It was a lovely way to spend our last night in Rome ... our final night in Italy!
Nov 14th, 2013, 03:30 PM
#90
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2010, thanks again for your report! I really enjoyed it!
Unfortunately I didn't have cacio e pepe on my trip to Rome, but that's what next time will be for. I did have some amazing gricia and amatriciana though and I LOVED most of what I ate there!
Many who read this will know what I am posting below, but for others this may be helpful to know how these classic Roman pasta dishes differ, and please feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.
Cacio e Pepe: Pecorino, Pepper, Pasta
Gricia: Same as Cacio e Pepe, add Guanciale (pig's cheek)
Carbonara: Same as Gricia, add Egg
Amatriciana: Same as Gricia, add Tomatoes
Unfortunately I didn't have cacio e pepe on my trip to Rome, but that's what next time will be for. I did have some amazing gricia and amatriciana though and I LOVED most of what I ate there!
Many who read this will know what I am posting below, but for others this may be helpful to know how these classic Roman pasta dishes differ, and please feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.
Cacio e Pepe: Pecorino, Pepper, Pasta
Gricia: Same as Cacio e Pepe, add Guanciale (pig's cheek)
Carbonara: Same as Gricia, add Egg
Amatriciana: Same as Gricia, add Tomatoes
Nov 15th, 2013, 06:13 AM
#91
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Hi Blaise22,
Thanks for the descriptions of the various pasta dishes! I did not have gricia nor amatriciana. Next time!
It's interesting how they have taken a basic recipe and changed it up with the addition of a few different ingredients. I must do a search for recipes. I wonder if pancetta which is readily available here can be substituted for guanciale?
Thanks for the descriptions of the various pasta dishes! I did not have gricia nor amatriciana. Next time!
It's interesting how they have taken a basic recipe and changed it up with the addition of a few different ingredients. I must do a search for recipes. I wonder if pancetta which is readily available here can be substituted for guanciale?
Nov 15th, 2013, 10:35 AM
#92
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Fri Oct 4
Travel Day ...
This was one of only a few mornings we woke up to the sound of an alarm clock! At 7:00 am, it was a bit too dark to have breakfast on the roof-top terrace.
Good-bye and thanks to the staff at the Cesari for making our stay so wonderful!
It was a short flight from Rome to Munich and a comfortable wait-time for the connection home. I bought magazines (fashion, house & home) to look at while we waited. What a surprise to come across a Max & Co ad in the Italian Glamour with a model wearing my yellow duffle coat! Very cool!
The flight: long & tedious with the usual marginal food, bad movies & no sleep. We touched down in Vancouver just shortly after 5:00 pm.
It was a slow cab ride home through heavy Friday afternoon traffic. We had the cab stop at our neighbourhood Safeway while I ran in for a few breakfast essentials.
We ordered Chinese food to be delivered. It was very good (and for the next week or so, DH & I had Asian food whenever we went out. This was something we both craved!). About 8:30 pm, we did face-plants onto our bed.
It was wonderful to be home! Tomorrow will be perfect though. That's when our friends are scheduled to drop off Emma, our 8 year old lab. (Actually, Emma had a wonderful holiday, too. She spent two weeks with our friends + their dog at their lakeside cabin in the Cariboo region of B.C. It's a fantastic place to be in the Fall for dogs and humans!)
2010
Travel Day ...
This was one of only a few mornings we woke up to the sound of an alarm clock! At 7:00 am, it was a bit too dark to have breakfast on the roof-top terrace.
Good-bye and thanks to the staff at the Cesari for making our stay so wonderful!
It was a short flight from Rome to Munich and a comfortable wait-time for the connection home. I bought magazines (fashion, house & home) to look at while we waited. What a surprise to come across a Max & Co ad in the Italian Glamour with a model wearing my yellow duffle coat! Very cool!
The flight: long & tedious with the usual marginal food, bad movies & no sleep. We touched down in Vancouver just shortly after 5:00 pm.
It was a slow cab ride home through heavy Friday afternoon traffic. We had the cab stop at our neighbourhood Safeway while I ran in for a few breakfast essentials.
We ordered Chinese food to be delivered. It was very good (and for the next week or so, DH & I had Asian food whenever we went out. This was something we both craved!). About 8:30 pm, we did face-plants onto our bed.
It was wonderful to be home! Tomorrow will be perfect though. That's when our friends are scheduled to drop off Emma, our 8 year old lab. (Actually, Emma had a wonderful holiday, too. She spent two weeks with our friends + their dog at their lakeside cabin in the Cariboo region of B.C. It's a fantastic place to be in the Fall for dogs and humans!)
2010
