Lucky you! The number of days when the temperature in Paris went as high as 29° this summer can be counted on the fingers of one hand. The majority of those days were all during the same week, though.

Kerouac: The day we arrived was unusually hot. Though what baffled us was seeing people wearing jackets, sweaters, scarves and/or boots looking perfectly cool on days that hovered in the mid-20's. How did they manage that? We were melting in the heat, removing as many layers as we could and yet remain decent!

2010 - Really enjoying your report. I can't wait to visit Bruges and Amsterdam - it sounds like we would like them. Looking forward to more about Paris.

FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 19TH

Woke up this morning after a good night's sleep wondering, "Am I still dreaming or am I really here in Paris?" Oh, it was lovely to be me!

We planned to have a leisurely morning in the apartment. DH decided to start a load of laundry knowing that it took 4 hours to complete a cycle and we would gone before the cycle ended. After breakfast, we mapped out a route for this morning's venture out into the neighbourhood: along Rue Monge to the market at Place Monge and then over to Rue Mouffetard. We wanted to check out these shopping areas.

We started out at our usual brisk pace. We hadn't gone far when I had to remind DH that we had no particular destination in mind and no schedule to keep. Today was a day for meandering & discovery. In other words, let's slow down!

It was fun to look into shop windows of boutiques, specialty food & wine stores, bakeries, cheese & meat shops. It was also fantastic to see the displays of flowers and stalls of fresh produce. We were drawn into a few places to look at scarves, to check out the cheeses, jars of condiments and scotch! We did buy a few things: a few supplies for the apartment; a bottle of Macallan single malt scotch for DH who enjoys a sip in the late afternoon; and fixings for lunch. On our way home, we stopped at Franprix for a few more groceries including La Fermiere yoghurt sold in pretty Provencal-blue terra cotta pots. (I would be packing a set of pots to take home!)

When we returned with our purchases, DH's laundry was finished - hurrah! As anticipated, everything was slightly damp and highly wrinkled. I decided to continue hand-washing and hanging my things to dry!

Popped out later, this time in the opposite direction towards St. Germain. First, we went down into the metro station at St. Michel to buy two <i>carnet</i> - two sets of ten tickets. Whether we would use them all or not, they were good to have. Next, we went to <b>Diwali</b> on St. Andre des Arts where we bought scarves for thank you gifts: for our neighbours who looked after our house while we were away and for our friends who took our dog to their cabin for the month of September. Oh, and one for me! :-) The salesperson did a wonderful job wrapping and attaching a colourful Diwali business card with each recipient's name printed on it to the correct bag ... even on mine! Last stop: <b>Paul's</b> for bread.

DH had a scotch on ice and I had a cold Pellegrino. DH read while he sipped on his drink and I wrote in my journal. Occasionally, I found myself gazing out the window at the spires on Notre Dame Cathedral!

We had a dinner reservation at <b>Saigon Pantheon</b> tonight. It was only a 15 minute walk there. It had a contemporary interior and an interesting Vietnamese menu. With drinks, we were served wasabi chips - spicy & addictive! We opted to have the 20 euro and 25 euro set menus. That way we could share 3 appetizers, 3 salads and order our own main-course and dessert. It was a fun way to try a variety of small-plate dishes! The food was very good and we talked about coming back again, perhaps ordering a la carte.

This area of the Latin Quarter had an energetic vibe. The bars were packed and restaurants were filled with diners. It was Friday night, after all ... or perhaps that didn't matter. It could be that it was lively every night!

We'll be in Amsterdam next June, have booked the Brouwer hotel, a small B&B on the Singel canal in the old part of town. We then take the train down to Paris where I've booked an apartment in the Latin Quarter, need to get started with planning the rest of our trip, this TR gives me a lot of ideas.

<b>John</b>: Happy to have you follow along! If memory serves, you are planning a trip to Paris in the spring, n'est-ce pas?

<b>geetika</b>: It sounds as if you have a nice trip coming up! For me, planning is part of the fun. Glad this trip report will be helpful as you plan your trip.

SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 20TH

This was our 5th trip to Paris and we looked forward to a relaxing stay with time to visit new places and re-visit old favourites. It was fun to make plans as we went along, usually deciding the night before. Some activities were weather dependent so we needed to organize our days around the forecasts. And there was the concert we wanted to go to later next week. We got tickets in advance.

We made an early morning trip to the market at Place Maubert to get a bouquet of fresh-cut flowers for our dining table. I picked out yellow & orange dahlias - beautiful fall colours! While we were there, we got some fruit for breakfast. Back at the apartment, I set the flowers in water to hold until later when I had time to arrange them in a vase. We were anxious to set out on this gorgeous, sunny day!

We walked from the apartment to the start of the <b>Promenade Plantee</b>. It is a former railway line that has been transformed into an elevated walkway with green spaces & benches set along the length. Some of the arched viaducts at street level have been converted into artisans' studios and shops. We entered the walkway via stairs on Avenue Daumesnil.

I had read that the Promenade Plantee was the inspiration for the Highline Project in New York City. After walking the Highline this spring, we wanted to do this walk. The length of the Promenade Plantee is about 4.5 km.

There were many families & folks out for a walk; joggers; and others who sat on benches reading or were just enjoying the warm sunshine. What a pleasant way to pass the time!

Along one side of the walkway, there were some tall, modern apartment buildings. I presume for the residents that a walkway is preferable to trains rattling by. Although we did notice some security measures in place to keep vandals away from the buildings. It was fun to peer over the railings on the other side of the walkway to the street below. It would be lovely to see the gardens in different seasons!

We wandered into <b>Parc de Reuilly</b> and a came upon a vendor who sold sandwiches, snacks and drinks. We sat at a shady table with our baguette sandwiches and cold bottled water. The sandwiches were so tasty!

At ground level, we continued to follow the signs to <b>Bois Vincennes</b> along paths and through tunnels. Once off the path, it was quite a long walk to Bois Vincennes and to the Porte Doree metro station. It was about 27 degrees Celsius outside; felt like 40 degrees in the metro. It was going to be a two-shower day for us, <i>certainement</i>.


More to follow ...

Hi 2010,
Very much enjoying your Paris segment and appreciate the additional comments on the Fleur de Lys apt! How did the AC work?
Looking forward to more!

Hi powhatangal,

The AC worked well. In fact, it blew quite cold in the bedroom. So, at night, we turned the AC off and slept with the bedroom window open. The window faces an air shaft. Not a pretty view but as said before, the room is perfectly quiet.
Hope this info helps!

We've had many good meals at Sorza so I'm looking forward to your review. My favorite on ISL though are the lamb chops at L'Ilot Vache just down the street from Sorza.

Loved reading your descriptions of Amsterdam and Bruges which we visited a year ago about this time. Bruges became one of our favorite places - we thought we'd daytrip to Ghent and Antwerp, but stayed put in Bruges for four days, wandering the lanes, exploring the museums and shops and cafés. We too loved the market there. And Amsterdam- never enought time to explore all the sights and museums there- although the cycling culture was a real eye-opener ( and we live outside of Portland, OR, a real hub of cycling...). Pedestrians definitely don't have the right of way!
We are now in Prague heading to Paris (our ?th visit) and I look forward to your Paris report.

It is nice to have a town/city return to normal after the tourists have left. In Pisa, one only had to walk a block or so from the Leaning Tower to escape things! When we were in Bruges many years ago, I think there was a lace-making group at the Begijnhof facility.

Enjoying being in Paris virtually with you. More please, asap.

<b>TPAYT</b>: We were in Paris two years ago when we discovered Sorza. So, we were pleased that it still served up a good meal! Oh, I wish we had the name of your favourite restaurant on ISL. It will go on my list for a future trip.

<b>el13207</b>: We were surprised that we were perfectly content to be in Bruges for four days. I think it's a perfect home base from which to explore the region, either by train or car - next time!

Also, I agree with your comments about Amsterdam. There is never enough time! Had we known, we would have extended our stay to one week in order to see/do more. Vancouver is working towards accommodating cyclists. It's taking a 'build it and they will come' attitude. It would be interesting if the city did its 'bike count' in the rainy fall or winter instead of in the middle of summer. I suspect that our bike culture remains a fair weather bunch!

Enjoy your stay in Paris!

<b>TDudette</b>: << <i>It is nice to have a town/city return to normal after the tourists have left </i> >>... and turn it back to the tourists who are staying! Lucky us! ;-) We likely would have had a different impression of Bruges if we had seen it as a day trip.

More of Paris to come!

SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 20TH continued ...

Back from our walk on the Promenade Plantee, we needed to cool off and give our feet a rest! I arranged my dahlias in a vase and DH ironed his laundry! Even his non-wrinkle shirts required a bit of a press - poor guy! We both had a bit of a snooze before it was time to get ready for dinner.

Thunder showers were predicted for this evening. We were glad to have raincoats and an umbrella. As it turned out, we hardly needed the rain gear for our walk to <b>Sorza</b> on Ile Saint Louis. It was busy when we arrived. Glad we had reservations.

The contemporary interior was warm & cozy with its red walls, evidently a good colour to stimulate the appetite. We had a most wonderful meal! DH had tomatoes & fresh mozzarella salad; braised lamb shanks & whipped potatoes and for dessert, vanilla ice cream. I had grilled eggplant drizzled with pesto & balsamic reduction; risotto with scallops and for dessert, panna cotta with berry coulis. We had a demi of red wine. It was lovely to return to Sorza, a restaurant we have enjoyed in the past to find it still good!

It was a pleasant evening for our walk home.

SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 21ST

Woke up to a gray day but we decided to make our way to Montmartre for a Paris Walks Tour at 10:30am. We came up from the metro at Place des Abbesses, one of Guimard's canopied Art Nouveau metro stations. Naïvely, we left the umbrella at home and so, when the rain began fall - lightly at first and then, progressively harder - we decided to bail. Perhaps we could catch the Wednesday tour ... weather permitting. The climb down the stairs into the station was easier than the climb up. This station was DEEP!

When we emerged from the Cluny-Sorbonne station, the rain had stopped! We picked up some take away from La Piree Greek Deli on Boulevard Saint-Germain for our dinner tonight. When we dropped off our shopping at the apartment, we grabbed the umbrella. Time for Plan B: Musee Carnavalet in Le Marais.

We had lunch at a restaurant on Rue de Terence under a large red canopy. Here, the seats of the closely-placed tables faced out towards the street. We watched as people scattered when the sky opened up again. Fortunately, the downpour was short-lived and by the time we paid, the rain had stopped. What good luck!

<b>Musee Carnavalet</b> provided a fascinating look at the history of Paris - its architecture, society & culture. Our visit began in the inner courtyard with its lovely parterre with flowers and vegetables growing within. (I daydream about having a parterre in my front yard but alas, we don't live in a stately stone townhouse such as this!) The museum contained rooms of furnishings, decorations/accessories; interesting scale models; and collections of art. Of particular appeal to us was the gallery of paintings depicting street scenes of old Paris.

We took a circuitous route home. I was on a quest to find a shop that carried <i>mywalit</i> and specifically, a zippered credit card holder for my cousin like the one I bought in Lucca, Italy last year. DH was most patient as we went from store to store I had sourced and listed by arrondissement. So far, all the stores on my list were no longer in business - darn! Guess it would have been easier to pick up the credit card holder when I saw it in Lucca!

Our Greek dinner was surprisingly fresh and tasty! We had humus & bread, Greek salad, sweet peppers stuffed with cheese and spanakopita ... though the spanakopita would have been better reheated in an oven rather a microwave. We followed this with cups of tea and the last of our Belgium chocolates which we had been hoarding.

We were glad that we decided to stay in this evening. The weather had turned blustery & cold.

ttt

Following along - what a great report!

Thanks for following along!

Just a few notes about my previous post:

> You will NOT find <i>Rue de Terence</i> in the Marais! It should read <i>Rue de Turenne</i>.

> I do know how to spell <i>hu<u>mm</u>us</i>, that delicious Middle Eastern chickpea dish. <i>Humus</i> ... well, that is something else!

The self-correct feature on my tablet sure makes for 'interesting' reading! ;-)

I am still following along and enjoying this report. I try to pop into Musee Carnavalet every time I'm in Paris. I like the building, there's usually something I've not noticed before, and of course it's free so why not?

MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 22ND

I was enchanted & inspired by the book, <i>Paris to the Past: Traveling Through French History By Train</i>. I pitched two destinations to DH: Saint-Denis & Rouen. I must have done a good job because we put them on our list of possibilities for day trips.

With jackets in hand and metro tickets in our pockets, we were going to <b>Saint-Denis</b> today. We were aware that Line 13 split at Fourche station. So, what were the odds that the train we were riding would take us in the direction of Saint-Denis University, not Asnieres-Gennevilliers? Do we get off or do we stay on? We decided to stay on and <i>naturellement</i> that was the wrong choice! No worries ... it was just a simple matter of getting off at the next station and backtracking to Fourche station to catch the correct train. It only added about 15 minutes to our trip.

We came up the escalator from the Basilique de Saint-Denis metro station into a shopping mall. According to my notes, the Basilique de Saint-Denis was not far away.

Our initial approach was disappointing. The exterior of the cathedral facing the square was undergoing an extensive restoration and was under wraps. But entering the 12th century cathedral was a different experience. We were not prepared for what we saw: a soaring light-filled interior and beautiful stained-glass windows! It took my breath away! It was an architectural marvel for its time using techniques such as a cross-ribbed vault design, the first in a Gothic cathedral. It was the first time stained glass was used for large windows. There was one rose window that was particularly beautiful.

The Basilique de Saint-Denis is the necropolis (burial palace) of the Kings of France and their families. It was fascinating to see their stone tombs and effigies.

We ended our visit with a walk through the crypt. We were glad to have our jackets. It was cold down there.

Over lunch at Mets du Roy across the square, DH & I thought we would have benefitted from a guided tour today like the one we took of the cathedral at Chartres with Malcolm Miller (2012). There is so much history, architecture and religious art in Chartres and here, in Saint-Denis - much more than I could absorb in a cursory read from a book! I understood why Ina Caro returned to Basilique de Saint-Denis over and over. We may return, too ... one day!

Tonight we went for dinner at <b>Le Trumilou</b> on Quai de l'Hotel de Ville. We tried not to let the pinball machine at the entrance put us off. We were led to a table in an adjacent room. Le Trumilou was in fact, a charming, family-run restaurant. Good, simple food. Friendly staff. DH started with a country pate; had veal with mushroom sauce + pomme frites; and for dessert, an apple tart. I had grilled beef + pomme frites; spinach which we shared; and for dessert, crème caramel. It was exactly what we were hankering for tonight!

Cool evening. Fall has definitely arrived.

2010: just some snippets from reading your Paris parts above (will get to others later...). I just got home from a wonderful trip to Paris with Judy and her family and friends.

I had lunch at Sorza one day. It was excellent!

Thank you for the book reco - it looks wonderful. Did you have a paper version and do you recommend it, or would a Kindle version do?

I didn't make it to the Carnavalet (other than to use their facilities) and I wish I had lingered due to the WWI exhibit. I was shopping with a friend, though, and had to meet other friends for lunch.

I am still following along and enjoying every day, taking notes on several new places for us.
We miss Paris so much (our June visit with our GD was just too short) that we are tempted to go for a week iin Nov. even if it is cold and dark early. Anyone know when the Xmas lights go up in Paris?

<b>Leely2</b>: I agree that we must remember to 'look up' at the historical buildings that house these wonderful collections. The details in the architecture deserve our notice, too.

<b>flygirl</b>: re: Paris to the Past - Initially, I borrowed the book from my local library. I thought it was worthwhile having my own copy. So, I bought the Kindle version for my tablet. There are some maps/diagrams but they are not so detailed that you can't read them on a Kindle or tablet screen.

Glad you had a wonderful stay in Paris!

<b>TPAYT</b>: It is wonderful to be in Paris ... anytime! I understand your wish to be there, especially before Christmas. Another dream of mine is to be IN Paris at Christmas!

Hi 2010.
I've been out of town but want to thank you for the AC info at Fleur de Lys. I'll be there in Aug next year so will probably need it!

I am enjoying your report and taking notes on the restaurants. I especially enjoyed reading of your visit to the Cathedral Saint Denis, I was in Paris last May and had scheduled a tour there with Context Tours. Two others and I were waiting at the meeting spot but got a call that the guide had had some accident on the way so it was cancelled. I will put it on my Aug agenda now to do on my own!

Hi powhatangal,

Glad that the apartment info is helpful.

It is good to know that there are tours to Cathedral Saint-Denis. I have come across Context Tours when planning our trips to Rome & Florence and read many good reviews about this company. Hope you come back with a review of the tour when you return from your trip!

TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 23RD

The line-up for entry tickets to the <b>Musee d'Orsay</b> was intimidating at first but mercifully, it was organized and well-managed. It took us just over 30 minutes to go through security and purchase our tickets.

We went straight up to the 5th floor to see the masterpieces of the Impressionist movement: Edouard Manet, Edgar Degas, August Renoir, Claude Monet, Paul Cezanne. Amongst all the spectacular works of art, I took time to gaze at three paintings of the cathedral at Rouen by Monet. We decided not to do a day trip to Rouen after all and this would have to satisfy me! Paintings by Alfred Sisley and Camille Pissarro appealed to DH. And I was fascinated by the sky in many of the landscapes: the clouds, the mood-setting light and colours.

Lunch at the Café Campania gave us an opportunity to rest our feet and re-energize before we set out to see more of the Musee d'Orsay's collections.

We focused on the Neo- and Post-Impressionist paintings of Van Gogh, Gaugin, Seurat (Level 2); the early works of Manet, Degas & Monet and the Toulouse-Lautrec gallery (Level 0). We also took time to admire the beautifully renovated interior. It had changed from our last visit in 2003!

It was very nice to bask in the loveliness of all this incredible art today - a pity we had to share this experience with crowds of people.

On our walk back, we picked up bread from <b>Eric Kayser</b> and from <b>Boucherie Claude</b> on rue de Seine, our dinner: rotisserie chicken, roasted potatoes and couscous.

Apartment life suited us well. We enjoyed the rhythm of our mornings and spending the occasional evening in. We liked having the flexibility to pop back home mid-day. And we could hang up laundry for as long as necessary to dry! Though after doing a few loads of laundry, DH considered taking his stuff to a local place that charged by the kilo to do it!

Playing catch-up on Fodor's today, and I am really enjoying your report, 2010. "Slowing down" is such a perfect way to visit Paris. Looking forward to more!

WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 24TH

On an oppressively hot July day (2002), DH & I took the metro to Montmartre. We rode up on the crowded, steamy funicular to the base of Sacre-Coeur Basilica. We spent some time in the Basilica; lit a candle for my mother; and departed. From the top of the stairs, we looked out over a hazy Paris. There was a small church around the side of Sacre-Coeur. We remember seeing stunningly beautiful stained-glass windows there. Then, we left having seen nothing else of Montmartre!

Well, THAT was going to change today!

We decided to take the elevator up from the Abbesses metro station to street level instead of climbing the stairs as we did on Sunday. The day was cool but dry for our <b>Paris Walks Tour of the Village of Montmartre</b>. We were a large group (about 50), split into two.

Our guide was knowledgeable, personable and had a voice that carried well! As we traversed the hill along old winding streets of Montmartre, we learned about its history and some of the artists & personalities who lived and worked here through her interesting stories. Highlights of places we walked by: a windmill; a vineyard; artists' homes (Renoir, Lautrec, Van Gogh); an art installation based on a charming novel about a man who passed through walls; lovely gardens; the Museum of Montmartre; St Pierre de Montmartre and Sacre-Coeur. The two-hour tour was long enough to give us a glimpse of the village and for us to get a sense of this unique neighbourhood.

We stopped at Le Consulate away from Place du Terre for a lunch of omelettes. It was surprisingly good!

In Sacre-Coeur, we lit a candle in remembrance of special people in our lives who have passed away. We sat for a moment to take in the splendor of the Basilica.

Not sure why we didn't go back to see the stained-glass windows in the church next door. Maybe intuitively we knew that Montmartre is a place we will come back to and explore on our own. We will see it then.

Tonight we had a special dinner at <b>Reed</b> in the 7th arrondissement. There were only 3 tables of diners in the restaurant. The atmosphere was relaxed. Catherine, the owner/chef seemed to recognize us from our previous visits - lovely of her to say. Our meals were superb! DH enjoyed an appetizer of fois gras; braised lamb with potatoes and peas; and for dessert, lemon cheesecake. I savoured each bite of the tomato tart; braised lamb; and the tarte tatin. We had wine by the glass and coffee to end our meal. Catherine was our host, chef & server and she did all this so effortlessly & in her usual elegant way! Towards the end of our meals, we spoke to a young American couple seated next to us. They were staying across the street from Reed while we had a bit further to go! But once again, it was oh-so worth the trip!

Love Reed and Catherine is a one woman show. We plan to be back in March and cannot wait for the food. Enjoying your trip report.

<b>YankyGal</b>: << <i>"Slowing down" is such a perfect way to visit Paris.</i> >> Can't agree with you more!

<b>Irock5</b>: Lucky you to be going to Paris AND having dinner at Reed in March! Enjoy!

Thanks for following along! :-)

THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 25TH

The French call it <i>leche vitrine</i> which translates to 'licking windows'. In English, it is called 'window shopping'. I call it a lovely way to pass time on my own in Paris!

My intent was to begin on Ile Saint Louis and then wander through the Marais. I was hoping to find a scarf and possibly a pretty bauble as souvenirs - you know, small, packable items. In my enthusiasm, I started out about 10:00 only to discover that most of the shops & boutiques opened at 11:00. Oh, well! That meant I had plenty of time to perfect the art of <i>leche vitrine</i>!

I moved from window to window, admiring artful displays of merchandise: olive oil & containers in <b>Oliviers & Co.</b>, fun, eye-catching coloured accessories & decorative items for the home in <b>Pylones</b>; equally brightly coloured & beautiful resin jewelry in <b>Sobral</b>; a gorgeous array of flowers in front of <b>Patrick Alain Florist</b>; interesting photographs in <b>L'ile Aux Images</b>; and other shops that carried specialty foods, sweets, frocks & accessories.

Just ahead I saw the turquoise exterior of <b>Diwali</b>. The front door was open - a sign to go in! With the help of a knowledgeable salesperson, I chose three scarves perfect for fall & winter! I also learned a few different ways to tie them. I also chose a handsome scarf for DH. I did all this before other shoppers started to come into the store!

Now that it was closer to 11:30, I doubled back going into some of the shops that I had walked by earlier. I found myself back at Sobral. I wanted to look at the necklaces. I was drawn to the vibrant colours. The resin pieces were strung on leather strands with an interesting & secure bead-and-loop clasp. In the end, I decided on two necklaces: one with a round turquoise pendant and the other, a red multi-beaded one. Goodness, the packaging was as attractive as the pieces themselves!

Now, it was after 1:00 and I was still wandering the main street on Ile Saint Louis! I had a successful shopping morning. I was DONE! So, I never did make it across the Seine to the Marais - <i>dommage</i>!

By the way, DH went off on his own this morning to visit the <b>Musee de l'Armee at Invalides</b>. He enjoyed going through the museum, checking our the battery of canons and seeing Napoleon's tomb which he said was dusty on the top!

DH came back with a bag of bread. My bags were prettier!

Tonight we returned to <b>Saigon Pantheon</b>. DH ordered <i>a la carte</i> and I ordered the smaller set menu. Together we had another fantastic meal: duck spring rolls & beef spring rolls; chicken & cabbage salad; grilled pork in vermicelli; and a carmel cream dessert with my dinner - really, really delicious! It is a family restaurant: the mother is the amazing chef while one son helped in the kitchen and the other son looked after the front of the house. Evidently, as boys, they spent summers in Denver with their grandfather. Hence, the impeccable English and the choice of music - Motown tonight! The restaurant was quite busy. We were glad that we had a reservation.

FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 26TH

It was to be a slow, easy day. The sun was shining - perfect for a walk in <b>Luxembourg Garden</b>!

We headed out and just as we did whenever we passed this small neighbourhood jewelry store called <b>Aventurine Paris</b>, I stopped & gazed through the window. An open door was certainly a sign to go in, <i>n'est-ce pas</i>? A charming, older gentleman who worked in the store was pleased to show me two necklaces I selected. They both had fine silver chains with teeny tiny clasps. I explained that I had difficulty opening the clasps, having arthritis in my fingers. He replied that while his fingers were good, his eye sight was not. Guess we all have our challenges! So, after trying both necklaces on with his help, I choose the one with two intertwining circles. Since I already had it on, I wore it out of the store!

We left the bustle of Paris streets at the gate of <b>Luxembourg Garden</b>. There is a sense of calm when one passes into the garden and our steps slowed down to match.

My favourite spot is the pretty <b>Fontaine de Medicis</b>. It is a place that feels protected & serene. It is here that I dream of coming to sit and read in the dappled sunlight. One day.

The flower beds still looked gorgeous with flowers of purple, pink yellow & white. Olive trees, citrus trees and palms gave visual structure to the vast garden. Such a feast for the eyes!

There was a large group of students having what looked like a track meet of sorts. Older students were running a circuit along the gravel paths while others stood & cheered. There was even a podium for the winners! Did these kids know how lucky they were to be running in Luxembourg Garden? I just remember running along a dusty track inside an old wooden stadium - sigh!

We spent some time sitting on iron chairs warming our faces in the sunshine. Oh, such simple pleasures!

When we left Luxembourg Garden, we passed by a long line-up in front of an Air France office. With the pilot strike, travelers were scrambling to book alternate flights out of Paris. For the first time, we were glad to be flying Air Canada!

It was not easy to locate the entrance to <b>Nanashi</b>, a restaurant on rue de Tournon. We had to go through a children's store called Bonpoint and down a set of stairs to the basement! There were two rooms and a pleasant patio. Minimal décor and an interesting modern Japanese menu. We had the <i>bento du jour</i> which consisted of seared veal and aubergine over a beautiful mix of rices, raisins & herbs and on the side, a fresh green salad. Not your traditional Japanese bento but it certainly was delicious! It was well-worth the hunt!

We picked up salads, quiche & fruit tarts for dinner at home. We had tickets for a concert this evening.

We arrived at Saint Ephrem Church about 30 minutes early and picked our prime seats ... in the front row. It was a program of Bach Suites for Violoncello Solo performed by Timothee Marcel. As a young musician from the National Conservatory of Music of Paris, it was delightful to hear his interpretation of three suites. For me, the experience was enhanced by being able to watch him perform: seeing his expressions (facial, body); being aware of his breathing; watching his fingers as they moved on the finger board and his bowing. Now, I have heard 'cleaner' performances of Bach's cello suites. But there is a uniqueness & beauty of a live performance. It's authentic. It's honest. It's real. And we got that tonight!

Tonight's concert inspired me to think about bringing my cello out of storage. I don't know if my mildly knotty fingers would behave but it would be fun to work at it again. Unfortunately, I have neither the talent nor the ear to do this really well ... but I have just enough to give me pleasure! :-)

SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 27TH

We took part of the morning to do a few things: checked in with Air Canada and began to organize our stuff for the trip home tomorrow. Where has the time gone? It feels not that long ago we were in Amsterdam!

It was 18 years ago that we first/last walked along the Champs-Elysees. We thought, after all these years, why not do it again? We took the metro to the Concorde station. From here, we began our walk along the <b>Champs-Elysees</b> towards the Arc de Triomphe ... along with a gazillion other people. It felt like one long high-end strip mall - a bit soulless and uninteresting. At least in 1996, there were stores we didn't see in North America which made it sort of special. The only fabulous places to stop were the Mercedes-Benz and Peugeot dealerships. Talk about cool and only-in-my-dreams fun! We took a selfie with the <b>Arc de Triomphe</b> in the background ... yes, just to show that we were here! Instead of walking back on the other side, we caught the metro to Tuileries station and transferred to Pyramides.

We were looking for Izakaya Isse on rue de Richelieu for lunch. It took us a while but when we got there, the restaurant was closed! There was an official-looking notice posted on the door. It was in French so we could not determine the circumstances of its closure. Too bad! Onto Plan B: find another place for lunch. We came across <b>Zen</b>, a casual Japanese restaurant where the hostess & servers were Japanese - perhaps a good sign. When we entered, I decided to cover my bases by saying, "Bonjour ... Konnichiwa ... Hello!" DH & I each had a bowl of yaki niku donburi (fried beef on rice) + a Kirin beer + water. It hit the spot!

We walked to the <b>Louvre</b> to see I.M. Pei's glass pyramid. It continues to be an architectural paradox to have the modern glass structure surrounded by the historical palace. Never mind ... just expressing my own personal sensibilities! It is still a sight to see!

Then, while we were in the neighbourhood, there was one last store on my list that carried mywalit. It was called <b>Rives</b> on rue de Tivoli. Well, hallelujah! After so many failed attempts, I was excited to see that this store actually existed and it was open! It carried some stock of the zippered fan credit card holder I wanted to get for my cousin. There was one that would coordinate nicely with the coin purse I picked up for her in Lucca. Mission accomplished! :-)

Final quest ... ice cream cones! Oh, how I craved a cone filled with some cold creamy deliciousness! But can you imagine that we did not pass one ice cream vendor en route to the apartment? Well, maybe, just maybe, there will be ice cream on the menu at tonight's dinner.


More to follow ...

SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 27TH continued ...

We had planned for an early dinner tonight. Mid-week, I called for a 7:00 pm reservation at <b>Marco Polo</b>. It would be determined that night whether we would dine inside or outside.

As luck would have it, the weather was pleasant and we did indeed sit outside at a table below the bright red awning. From start to finish, we were treated to a pleasurable dining experience. The service was impeccable. Our servers were charming & personable. Our meals were very, very good! We shared an appetizer of melon & prosciutto - so refreshing! DH had tortelli in a classic butter & sage sauce and I had the most delicious spaghetti alla vongole. Wine by the glass. For dessert, we had ice cream, of course! DH had coffee ice cream and I had vanilla ice cream with a cherry sauce topped with whipped cream. Oh, so good! We finished off with coffee.

As the evening progressed, the restaurant filled. We enjoyed the bustling atmosphere. Jean-Jacques Sempe, a well-known French cartoonist who designed the restaurant's logo sat a table behind us - a regular, evidently. Interactions with staff, especially our host, a charming older gentleman made our experience even more enjoyable!

It was our last night in Paris. DH & I decided that we will always come back to this beautiful city if only to taste French butter or to walk through Luxembourg Garden again!


<i>Paris is a seminar, a post-graduate course in Everything.</i>
James Thurber, 1918


<b>Next: Travel Day Home</b>

SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 28TH

A Long Way Home - Travel Day Highlights:

> DH's alarm clock woke us up at 6:00 am.

> By 7:00 am, we were wheeling our luggage to a taxi stand on Blvd Saint-Germain. Soon, we were on our way to Charles de Gaulle Airport.

> We arrived at Terminal 2A. We were confused like many other travelers. Where are the signs to direct us to the Air Canada desk? Are there kiosks to print our boarding passes? Is this really the (very long) line-up to check in?

Once the Air Canada agents started to process passengers, the line move steadily. Our bags were checked through to Vancouver and we had our boarding passes.

We stopped for coffee and muffins at Starbuck's. On our way to the gate, I bought two French magazines: one, fashion and the other, home décor. Okay, so I like pretty pictures! It was a long walk from there to our gate.

> Boarding went smoothly but we were slightly delayed leaving Paris. In the air, we had the usual on-board meals, snacks and movies, most of which we had seen. But it all helped to pass the time. 8 hours 30 minutes later we landed in Toronto.

> We did the immigration, customs and security dance. It was only because we had a long lay-over that everything went without a hitch or a delay!

> Hungry for a real meal, we went to the Mills Street Pub for burgers and beer! The burgers were messy but tasty.

> Our 7 hour lay-over was only made palatable with access to the Maple Leaf Lounge. DH had received a free voucher and we used Aeroplan points to purchase a second voucher to the lounge. We found two comfy, wide chairs and settled in. DH said that at one point, I curled up like a snail on my chair and fell asleep! One of the few times it paid to be short! At 8:15 pm, we were homeward bound!

> We both managed to sleep a bit. Our noise-cancelling headsets were a god send. And exhaustion helped! It had been a while since we had such a long travel day.

We planned that this trip would be our last using Aeroplan points. No more weird flight itineraries!

> Home at last about 11:00 pm. DH did a quick walkabout to make sure everything was fine around the house and garage. We didn't even unzip our bags. We just piled into bed. Ah, to be horizontal in our own bed! Sleep came quickly for us!


<b>Next: Some final notes ...</b>

Some final notes about our trip:

It was our first all-city itinerary, traveling exclusively by train. We were pleased with our choices as each city was so unique. We did wonder if 19 days in 3 cities would be too hectic for us but happily, it wasn't. We enjoyed every minute! Also, we liked that the train brought us into the centre of the city which made transfers to our accommodations direct, easy & quick - a real advantage!

As a result of our particularly long journey home, the travel portion of a trip has lost its luster for us ... at least for now. We found ourselves brainstorming destinations with the following criteria:

1. Must be a direct flight.
2. Must be no more than 9 hours in duration.

Here's the beginnings of our list: Montréal, San Francisco, Hawaii, Chicago, London, Amsterdam. We will revisit this list and other destinations when it comes time to plan our next trip. You see, we are not ready to discount Italy nor France completely just yet!

Our holiday photos are neatly arranged in our Shutterfly photo book. Other photos are uploaded onto my e-frame. They are all sweet reminders of our wonderful trip and other special times!

Oh, Emma, our 10 year old lab spent a most wonderful month of September with friends at their lakeside cabin in B.C.'s Cariboo region. This was evident in the many emails ('Yes, I am missing you ... really!') and photos (swimming in the lake, sleeping by the fire) we received while we were away! DH & I considered driving up and spending four days with them when we got back. But the rigors of travel got the better of us. Emma was delivered home on Saturday, October 4th. Lucky dog!

2010, I really enjoyed your trip report and am sorry it's over! I especially enjoyed your notes on Emma. Sounds like she had a great vacation, too!

Hi powhatangal,

Thanks for following along! Have a wonderful trip to Paris next summer. Hope you enjoy your stay in apartment Fleur de Lys!

:-)

I finally took the time to read and absorb your report from beginning to end and I really enjoyed it. Your memory serves you well - we are going to France in April. We will have ten days in Paris then about 4 and a half in Provence. Your report and Ina Caro's book "Paris to the Past (thanks for recommending it) have lots of good ideas that I intend to copy. Thanks for taking the time to write this. Did I miss a link to your shutterfly albums?

glad you topped this, john - it enabled me to come across it as I missed it first time round.

Thanks, 2010 - I've really enjoyed reading about your "jaunts", and picked up some good ideas for things to do the next time we're in Paris, Bruges or Amsterdam.

I've never been to any of them when it's been hot - the best we've done is warm, but mostly it's been freezing, especially in Paris; I was as cold as I've ever been when we spent an hour or so in St Denis before a rugby match at the Stade de france one February. That place is really CHILLY - even when it's sunny outside.