Go Back  Fodor's Travel Talk Forums > Destinations > Europe
Reload this Page >

Notes from Paris, Honfleur, Bermicourt & London - Sept 10 - Oct 4, 2012

Search

Notes from Paris, Honfleur, Bermicourt & London - Sept 10 - Oct 4, 2012

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Oct 21st, 2012, 10:29 AM
  #1  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,209
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Notes from Paris, Honfleur, Bermicourt & London - Sept 10 - Oct 4, 2012

Notes on Trip Planning ...

Fall, 2011

After a hiatus of 6 years, DH & I decided to return to France - our 5th trip to this beautiful country! We tacked on a stay in London at the end. Here's our itinerary:

September 10, 1012: leave Vancouver, B.C. / arrive in Paris on September 11
September 11-21: Paris
September 21-25: Honfleur (Normandy)
September 25- 27 Bermicourt (Somme)
September 27- October 4: London

With plans in place, we began the process of getting airline tickets with points through Aeroplan. We phoned on the first day seats were released for our travel dates. To our surprise, Aeroplan released only one seat in Business Class + one seat in Economy. We snapped them up.

Then came the task of periodically checking on-line & calling to see if another seat in Business Class came open. As the months became weeks, the calls became more frequent. At last, there was a seat available but only on the Montreal to Paris leg. We grabbed that seat, paid (in points) for the up-grade + the additional change fee, taxes & surcharges. This was getting expensive! But now DH was on automatic stand-by should a seat become available. We would have to wait until we arrived at the gate in Vancouver & again in London to find out if we were flying in the same cabin - fingers crossed! Well, at least we knew that we would be arriving together regardless of the outcome.


September, 2012

Time to start packing!
2010 is offline  
Old Oct 21st, 2012, 10:52 AM
  #2  
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 777
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Isn't it amazing how Air Canada, or any other airline for that matter, can yank your chain when you are clearly a loyal customer if you have bothered to collect all those points! Looking forward to your trip!
jane1144 is offline  
Old Oct 21st, 2012, 12:04 PM
  #3  
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,093
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I don't understand. I thought you grabbed and paid for that seat. Why was he on standby?
Looking forward to reading about your trip.
Micheline is offline  
Old Oct 21st, 2012, 01:14 PM
  #4  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,209
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hi Micheline,

That's the thing about using airmiles ... it doesn't always make sense! When we took the Business Class seat for the Montreal to Paris segment, DH was still booked to travel in Economy from Vancouver to Montreal where we originated our trip AND from London to Vancouver on our return leg. Aeroplan assessed us Business Class points for the entire journey and put DH on a list to be up-graded (Vancouver-Montreal & London-Vancouver) if not all seats where sold prior to take-off.

Sorry that I wasn't more clear!
2010 is offline  
Old Oct 21st, 2012, 02:52 PM
  #5  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,209
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Monday, September 10 - Tuesday, September 11

Our very long travel day ...

It was early morning when DH & I checked in at YVR airport. We were informed that there was one seat open in business class. We would learn at the gate before boarding whether DH would be up-graded from economy.

We decided to have a hearty breakfast before making our way to the Maple Leaf Lounge to wait for our departure. All the while, we kept our fingers crossed!

Unfortunately, DH & I did not fly in the same section of the airplane for the first leg of our journey. It was 'food for fee' in economy & what was offered was unappealing. So, DH was hungry when we landed at Montreal Dorval airport. We had a light lunch in the Maple Lounge and watched one set of the US Open Tennis Men's Final on TV.

From Montreal to Paris, we flew in a Boeing 777-300Er. It was nice to be together at last! The Executive First Suite Pod seating was 'sweet'. It made for a comfortable flight. Even so, sleep eluded us - sigh!

We arrived at the apartment building on Rue Galande in the Latin Quarter by cab. It was Tuesday morning in Paris. We entered the code on the keypad which released the front door. We pushed the heavy door open, pressed the light switch & entered the dimly lit hallway.

We negotiated the steep, narrow, curved wooden steps up one floor to the tiny elevator which barely held two suitcases + me! I pushed '2' and the elevator groaned as it slowly moved upward. When the door opened, DH was waiting on the step outside the elevator. There was no landing on which to stand! In this old building, the elevator stopped midway between floors so tenants have only to climb up or down half a set of stairs to their flat. So, which way was our apartment named Abelard? Was this French trickery? Well, we went up when we should have gone down ... <i>naturellement</i>!

Inside, there was a light-filled living/dining area, a compact kitchen, a full bathroom & a comfortably-sized bedroom situated at the back of the apartment. The three-metre long kitchen was outfitted with a sink, fridge, induction stove top, microwave oven, dishwasher & a combination washer/dryer for clothes. It had everything we needed to prepare breakfast each morning, to keep a stock of cold drinks and to reheat take-away for the occasional dinner. Best of all, we could see the spires & bell towers of Notre Dame Cathedral from our front window. This was to be our home for the next 10 days!

We connected with Thierry (www.parisbestlodge.com) who showed us through the apartment. We were given thorough instructions on how to operate the appliances. Was it really going to take 3 1/2 hours to complete a wash/dry cycle of clothes? Theirry was terrific - from the booking process through to our arrival. We were confident that our first apartment experience was going to be fantastic!

After settling in, we walked to Rue Lagrange: Carrefour Market for breakfast groceries, a boulangerie for croissants ... just a few things to get us started.

Later in the afternoon, we picked up Vietnamese take-away from Pan D'Asie, a deli/restaurant on Rue Saint Severin. It would be an early dinner and an early bedtime for us!
2010 is offline  
Old Oct 21st, 2012, 03:45 PM
  #6  
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 4,109
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Great beginning! Looking forward to more. Please continue!
irishface is offline  
Old Oct 21st, 2012, 03:50 PM
  #7  
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 4,591
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Love the 777...nice! Love Paris, so looking forward to more.
denisea is offline  
Old Oct 22nd, 2012, 09:21 AM
  #8  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,209
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Wednesday, September 12th

DH's alarm woke us up at 8:00am. It wasn't a dream. We really were in Paris! A leisurely morning began with a continental breakfast: coffee, juice, yoghurt & croissants with berry jam. We left the apartment about 10:30 wearing light jackets under cloudy skies.

It's our 4th stay in Paris. DH & I have gone to most of the big sights during previous visits. So, this was our opportunity to see smaller but no less awe-inspiring churches, galleries, parks & viewpoints.

We took a peek in the <b>Church of Saint-Julian-Le-Pauvre</b> which stands across the street from us. We passed through the lovely <b>Square Rene-Viviani</b> and across the Pont du Double to Ile de la Cite. We joined a fast-moving line into <b>Notre Dame Cathedral</b>. Its massive interiors & beautiful stained-glass windows including the rose windows which fill each of the transepts were no less impressive than the first time we were here. Outside, we walked through the park that follows the Seine River and admired the exterior views of the cathedral.

At the tip of the island, the <b>Deportation Memorial</b> is located through iron gates. This memorial is for the French victims of Nazi concentration camps (1940-45). It's stark yet compelling. A long hallway is lined with 200,000 light crystals, one for each French citizen who died. It was very moving. And I was reminded of a novel called <i>Sarah's Keys</i> by Tatiana de Rosnay which is set during this time.

Next, we went to the <b>Cluny Museum (Musee National du Moyen Age)</b>. This museum holds treasures from the middle ages: Roman baths, stained glass, carvings from Notre Dame, examples of goldsmithing & jewelry & tapestries. Highlight: Lady & the Unicorn series of 6 tapestries in which the Lady introduces the unicorn to the 5 senses + a 6th, that of love and understanding. They were stunningly beautiful!

It was mid-afternoon. Time for lunch - crepes at <b>Crepe Genia</b> (7 Rue Harpe). We ordered the 5€ combo: crepe of cheese & ham + a drink + crepe with nutella. We made our way upstairs & sat at a table near the open window. We enjoyed the crepes, the break & the lively street scene below!

Back at the apartment for a rest. We had plans to go to Lagrange, a wine bar in Passage Vivienne (1 Rue de la Banque, 75002).

The sun made an appearance late in the afternoon. DH had mapped out a route for us to walk to <b>Lagrange</b>. We were soon reminded that Paris streets are not conveniently laid out in a grid fashion and we got terribly lost ... even with a map! While each person we asked for directions got us a little bit closer to our destination, we arrived past our original estimated time of arrival! We were ready for that drink!

We left about 7:30. With no firm plans for dinner, we wandered back towards Ile St Louis & across the Seine to the Latin Quarter in search of a restaurant. Nothing along the way appealed to us - imagine! After an hour, we were hungry and desperate. A dangerous combination! We ended up at <b>Il Gigolo</b> (11 Rue de la Huchette) which was filling up with families, groups of friends & other couples. We ordered salads & pasta. First course, 'interpretive salads': a ceasar salad made up of salad greens + a fried egg and a caprese salad with tomatoes + bocconcini skewered & served like a tower in the middle of a plate of greens sprinkled with anchovies & capers. All DH wanted to do was dismantle his salad before it toppled onto his lap. This definitely fell under the 'what-were-they-thinking' category! Mercifully, the pastas with quite good. By the time we left, Il Gigolo was hopping!

Note to self: Plan ahead. Make dinner reservations. Don't leave it to chance!!!
2010 is offline  
Old Oct 22nd, 2012, 09:38 AM
  #9  
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 7,296
Received 6 Likes on 1 Post
Loved the elevator story. I'm even surprised that you actually fit in with 2 suitcases---1 would be more like it.

And the wash machine story. Isn't it amazing that it can actually take 3-1/2 hours for a very small load of wash. Europeans are so far ahead in credit cards with a chip and pin, why are wash machines so inefficient? And on top of the time, the clothes are all wrinkled.

I agree about the dinner reservations, especially on the weekend. We call it a "food odyssey" when we have no reservations and have to walk the streets looking for a place. We try to avoid these at all costs.

Looking forward to more of stories. They are entertaining.
TPAYT is offline  
Old Oct 22nd, 2012, 10:23 AM
  #10  
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,082
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Great report - great details - looking forward to more!
john183 is offline  
Old Oct 22nd, 2012, 12:03 PM
  #11  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,209
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
To all: Thanks for following along!

I would also like to make one apology for all the typos, misspellings, word substitutions, dangling modifiers & any other errors that will undoubtedly appear throughout my trip report. I am able to catch some but not all mistakes.

For example, <i>Mercifully, the pastas with quite good.</i> should read: <i>Mercifully, the pastas were quite good.</i>

Sorry!

Okay, that said ... stay tuned for more!
2010 is offline  
Old Oct 22nd, 2012, 12:46 PM
  #12  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,209
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thursday, September 13th

With a carnet of transit tickets in our pockets, DH & I headed to <b>Rue Mouffetard</b> via metro. What began as a sunny day soon turned cloudy & cool. So in a way, it was a good day to be checking out the shops along this interesting street. We popped into a few: Droguerie Mouffetard for tea towels to use in the apartment; Oliviers for soap; and Diwali for scarves. I also bought a pretty bouquet from a flower vendor. We stopped by the apartment to put the flowers in water, to drop off our shopping & put on warmer clothes!

We walked over to the 6th arrondisement where we had a pizza lunch at <b>L'Isolotto</b> (26 rue Saint Andre des Arts). We came upon the <b>Cour du Commerce Saint-Andre</b>, a <i>passage couvert</i>. I stood at the window of La Dimanche a Paris and gazed with amazement! We made a point of stopping at <b>Fish La Boissonnerie</b> on Rue de Seine to make dinner reservations for Sunday. We also picked up a loaf of bread at nearby <b>Paul's</b>.

We had a lovely dinner at <b>Le Petit Chatelet</b> (39 Rue de la Bucherie). This was a sentimental restaurant choice. In 2006, we came here for dinner with dear friends - wonderful memories.

We took a leisurely walk to the tip of Ile St Louis, back to Notre Dame before heading home. It was a coolish evening. I should have worn a scarf!
2010 is offline  
Old Oct 22nd, 2012, 01:37 PM
  #13  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,209
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Friday, September 14th

A person does not need a gym membership in Paris. All one needs are good walking shoes, metro tickets and a destination. We were proof of this today ...

Our day began with a metro ride to <b>Gare Montparnesse</b> where we faced multiple opportunities to climb stairs + walk long corridors. The station was HUGE! It was daunting to navigate and it was filled with commuters & travelers. DH & I bought our round-trip train tickets to Chartres for Tuesday. We considered this our 'dry run' in this massive place.

A second metro ride took us to the <b>Musee Jacquemart-Andre</b> on Boulevard Haussmann (75008). This sumptuous 19th century mansion was built & decorated by Edouard Andre & Nelie Jacquemart. It is filled with artwork, some by Rembrandt & Botticelli just to name a few. There was also a special exhibit of paintings by Antonio Canaletto & Franceso Guardi, two masters of Venice. It was marvelous! There was a long line-up to the museum's lovely cafe. So, we decided to go elsewhere for lunch!

Our feet took us to <b>Galleries Lafayette</b>. We went directly to the 7th floor for sweeping views of Paris. We went to the Food Court with its extensive selections & its own amazing city views! We gazed at the beautiful domed ceiling high above the store's main floor. Here, I bought a Shu Uemura eyelash curler.

It was another metro ride back to our neighbourhood. We picked up a few groceries before returning home.

Tonight we went to <b>Reed</b> (11 Bis Rue Amelie, 75007) for dinner. Catherine seated us at a table for two where DH & I sat side-by-side. We had a most amazingly delicious meal - simple, fresh, beautifully presented! DH had fois gras terrine on a bed of lamb's ear greens, boeuf bourgignon & chocolate tart. I had a tomato tart, boeuf bourgignon & lemon cheesecake. We had a beautiful red wine to accompany our meal. Coffee, at the end. Excellent service! Outstanding meal! Before we left, we made reservations for next Wednesday.

From Reed, we walked over to the Champ de Mars. Precisely at 10pm, the light show began. The 20,000 lights on the <b>Eiffel Tower</b> began to sparkle! It was magical!

Our final walk, stair-climb & metro ride took us from Ecole Militaire to Cluny-Sorbonne. From there, it was a short distance home.

Today the energy expended definitely exceeded the calories consumed!
2010 is offline  
Old Oct 22nd, 2012, 03:23 PM
  #14  
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,887
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thank you for posting such an enjoyable read. Like the looks of the apartment..a little different decor indeed.

Reed is a great spot. I have been twice-once for dinner with my good friend Joan Grace and for lunch with another friend several months later. Catherine is a delight.
Weekender is offline  
Old Oct 22nd, 2012, 04:44 PM
  #15  
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 4,591
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Loving your report.

Un Dimanche a Paris is now my favorite place in Paris and the ginger-citrus macaron is stellar! It's a beautiful shop isn't it?

We visited the deportation memorial last November because of Sarah's Key. I have read all of her books for my Paris "fix" but Sarah's Key is really a great read.

I can never leave the dinner reservations to chance...it stresses me out. If we don't have a reservation then we have a place in mind and go early. But, since we also have been lost multiple times in paris (even with a map), i know exactly how you feel. We were lost in Rome pretty much the whole 10 days were there...and yep, we had a map!
denisea is offline  
Old Oct 22nd, 2012, 04:46 PM
  #16  
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 4,591
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Oops- and we also got the Reed "tip " from Joan Grace and went on our last trip....terrific spot! So glad to hear others are enjoying it!
denisea is offline  
Old Oct 22nd, 2012, 08:55 PM
  #17  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,209
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
TPAYT: I wonder if the combination washer/dryer is an apartment-size model, like the small fridge & two-burner stove top. Do you think French families actually do their laundry in such a small capacity machine? I'll be thinking of you as I write about DH doing the laundry!

Weekender: Decor aside, the Abelard apartment had the BEST lighting of any place I've stayed! It had a series of track lights set in different zones as well as table lamps. Good lighting is always a bonus!

denisea: We all benefit from sharing our 'tips'. Just as you found out about Reed from Joan Grace, I learned about Reed & Un Dimanche a Paris from reading your Paris trip report! Next time, I will make sure to go in & try their macarons! So, thank you!
2010 is offline  
Old Oct 23rd, 2012, 09:06 AM
  #18  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,209
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Saturday, September 15th

DH & I did not make the 9:45am departure for the Canal Saint-Martin cruise as planned. We slept in ... again! Instead, we went to our neighbourhood boulangerie/patisserie for croissants, pain au chocolat (my personal favourite) + a loaf of bread for up-coming breakfasts.

We took the metro to Place de la Republique & walked over to the <b>Canal Saint-Martin</b>. From here, we walked along the canal to the <b>Bassin de La Villette</b>, about 1.7 miles. What a lovely sunny it turned out to be! We bought tickets for the 2:45pm boat ride which would take us down the canal to Place de la Bastille (36€ for two, 2 1/2 hours).

After a lunch of delicious composed salads at a nearby cafe, we returned to the quay. We were first in line & ready to board. We snapped up front-row seats for a good view!

It was a lazy cruise on the canal which cut through Parisian neighbourhoods new to us and through 4 double locks. Going through the first set of locks was a unique experience as we watched each empty before we proceeded. After that, it was slow ... painfully slow like watching paint dry!!! But what the ride did afford us was the view along the canal from the water. We saw families out on this beautiful day and a bride & groom having wedding photos taken on one of the canal bridges. As our boat passed below, we applauded & cheered for the happy couple! We disembarked at the Place de la Bastille where we caught a metro to St. Germain.

We picked up a rotiserrie chicken, roasted potatoes + salads at <b>Boucherie Claude</b> (79 Rue de Seine) for tonight's dinner at the apartment. Yum!

DH thought it would be a good idea to do a load of wash this afternoon. I decided that I wouldn't risk 'cooking' my clothes in a machine that took 3 1/2 hours to complete a cycle. It was still running when we decided to go out for a walk after dinner!

We joined other folks out on this lovely Saturday evening. We stopped for Amorino gelato along the way. Ah, simple pleasures ... simple delights!

We returned to a quiet apartment. The laundry was done! But we found that things were still slightly damp and deeply wrinkled. So, clothes & towels were draped over every available chair back & cupboard handle to dry overnight!
2010 is offline  
Old Oct 23rd, 2012, 10:39 AM
  #19  
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 777
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
2010, I just started reading your account, and glad I did. I now have some great ideas for what to do in Paris next time we go.
Isn't Aeroplan a pain? I'm always on pins and needles when I'm trying to book a trip. It is worth the hassle, though, to have those business class pods.
A few Zopaclones are great to have along for sleeping on the plane, and also when the time difference makes you wake up at 4a.m.
sundriedpachino is offline  
Old Oct 23rd, 2012, 12:11 PM
  #20  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,209
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hi sundriedpachino & jane1144,

Looks you have your own Aeroplan stories to tell!

On this trip, the cost of Aeroplan + airport fees, taxes & surcharges added up to one economy ticket! It would have been so worth it had DH been in business class all the way.

If the same circumstance happens again, we might get one seat in economy on points and buy a second seat ... on our VISA cc!


Aeroplan sure doesn't make it easy for the customer, does it?
2010 is offline  


Contact Us - Manage Preferences - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -