Go Back  Fodor's Travel Talk Forums > Destinations > Europe
Reload this Page >

Notes from Paris, Honfleur, Bermicourt & London - Sept 10 - Oct 4, 2012

Notes from Paris, Honfleur, Bermicourt & London - Sept 10 - Oct 4, 2012

Old Oct 27th, 2012, 08:34 AM
  #41  
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 276
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I really enjoyed your report! I think my husband and I are staying in the exact apartment you rented this Thanksgiving. Do you remember the name of it? Ours is Fleur de Lys. Also, we'll try some of the restaurants you visited as well. Thanks again for such a great report.
kelbo is offline  
Old Oct 27th, 2012, 08:58 AM
  #42  
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 4,591
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Mont St Michel is also on the list of places to get to. We have never driven in Europe!

I will say Paris at Christmas is incredible and we would both love to go again!
denisea is offline  
Old Oct 27th, 2012, 09:15 AM
  #43  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,209
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Monday, September 24th

We left the rain behind in Honfleur as we drove east to <b>La Route des Chaumieres</b> (thatched-roof houses). We followed narrow country roads along the Seine River, past the Marais-Vernier, through small villages & the Foret Domaniale de Brotonne. Along the way, we saw farms, rural landscapes & traditional Normandy houses with their unique thatched roofs. What fun it was to explore this picturesque area!

About mid-day we began the search for a place to have lunch. There seemed to be so few restaurants in the villages we had gone through. Better to start looking now before we got too hungry or too desperate! Suddenly, we passed a blue sign that said: Restaurant. Bar. Tabac. There were cars parked outside the stone buildings and lace curtains hanging in the windows. We decided to take a chance!

There was no way to anticipate what we would see inside: a small bar and a pretty dining room! At one end of the room, there was a large fireplace. How cozy this room must be on a cold, wintry night! There were eight men having lunch together and another couple who were just finishing their meal.

The owner spoke no English but we were able to ascertain that fish was being served today. We agreed to stay without any further questions. It was a bit reminiscent of our experience at Chez Bob in the south of France. Well, that's another story!

It was time for me to locate the WC. There was no oblvious door which might lead to one. Nevertheless, off I went on my quest. The first door I opened led into the kitchen. Meanwhile, the table of men were watching me with interest! One of the diners who seemed to understand my plight directed me to go outside and turn <i>gauche</i>, left. That was only somewhat helpful. At last the owner re-entered the dining room. He kindly led me out the door and pointed to the building across the way. The wind was blowing briskly but I decided to forego my jacket which I left hanging on the back of my chair. Who knew that I would have to exit the restaurant? Reconnaissance & business completed, I returned to the table. In the meantime, DH had ordered drinks.

We were serve a beautiful lunch of <i>lieu jaune</i> (pollack) in a light cream sauce topped with sauteed local wild mushrooms & shallots, whipped potatoes & chives and a small souffle. It was lip-smacking delicious!

The experience was worth every <i>centime</i> although it is difficult to put a value on serendipity, we think!

The <b>Auberge Moulin</b> is in Vatteville-La Rue. It is closed on Wednesdays.

Note: When we returned home, I googled Auberge Moulin out of curiousity. I learned that Bruno, the owner goes to La Havre every day to get fresh fish - the catch of the day. His wife, Claire is the 'passionate' cook. It's no wonder the food was so sublime!

For our final night in Honfleur, we returned to <b>L'Homme de Bois</b>. We were seated at the same cozy window table beside an English couple ('Mr/Mrs Cambridge') and next to them, 'Mr/Mrs Chicago'. We had another wonderful meal. DH had the terrine de maison, duck (no lamb shanks ... last order was sold to Mr/Mrs Cambridge) + glace. I had six oysters served with a condiment of vinegar & shallots, duck + sorbet. It was fun to engage in a lively, animated conversation with the two couples about travel, the Olympics (London, Vancouver) and hockey!

We found a yellow mail box to drop in a postcard during our leisurely walk home.



<i>Our happiest moments as tourists always seem to come when we stumble upon one thing in pursuit of something else.</i>

LAWRENCE BLOCK


<b>Next</b>: Notes from Bermicourt
2010 is offline  
Old Oct 27th, 2012, 09:58 AM
  #44  
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 23,778
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 1 Post
Never overplan. Travel should be more about random discovery than ticking boxes on a list -- at least for the items along your trail to your destination.

I know that people who have stayed in a horrible random hotel or eaten (or spurned) a disgusting meal might not agree, but that is all part of the adventure for me.
kerouac is offline  
Old Oct 27th, 2012, 10:08 AM
  #45  
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 18,031
Received 22 Likes on 4 Posts
I'm enjoying your report and travel style in that beautiful part of the world.Serendipity makes your report so special.
HappyTrvlr is offline  
Old Oct 27th, 2012, 10:15 AM
  #46  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,209
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
kelbo: Our apartment named Albelard is one floor below yours! They have the same floor plan but different decor. I believe the Fleur de Lys has a red kitchen!

You probably know this: There's a timed-light switch in the hallway. Push it to illuminate the hall & the staircase. Wouldn't want to you to have to navigate those stairs in the dark! ;-)

Have a wonderful time in Paris!

denisea: Fortunately, my husband doesn't mind driving in France or Italy but does avoid driving in big cities! We plan our itinerary accordingly.

There's a rule of the road if adhered to doesn't make highway driving so scary: drive in the right-hand lane & use the left-hand lane for passing only. It's less dangerous than driving on our freeways here with slower vehicles proceding in the so-called left-hand 'fast lane', I think!

Driving the smaller rural roads is easy.

England is another matter!

Maybe you will do it one day!
2010 is offline  
Old Oct 27th, 2012, 10:18 AM
  #47  
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 3,494
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
We were on the Route de Chaumieres about the same time as you were. Vieux-Port was quite a sight, with so many thatched roofs planted with irises along their ridges.

In the Foret de Brotonne, we stopped for a line of wild boars crossing the road.

We enjoyed rambling around this quiet area, which was new to us. After that it was a shock to arrive in Honfleur and see the massive crowds. We couldn't take it and soon left.
Coquelicot is offline  
Old Oct 27th, 2012, 12:18 PM
  #48  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,209
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
kerouac: I have to agree about NOT overplanning. We learned early on to plan a trip anticipating that we will return. We've been fortunate that this has often been the case. Also, it is not in our nature to be 'manic' travelers. Usually, the most memorable moments are those that happen between Points A and B!

However, we do plan, make reservations or arrangements for things we really want to do to avoid disappointment.

HappyTrvr: Glad to have you along! Thanks for the nice compliment.

Coquelicot: What amazing sights you came upon, especially wild boars crossing the road! It would have been quite a contrast to be in Honfleur with the masses of people after such a lovely time in the country! Where did you flee to?
2010 is offline  
Old Oct 27th, 2012, 01:25 PM
  #49  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,209
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Tuesday, September 25th

We were awake early. Last-minute packing to finish. After breakfast, we checked out and expressed our thanks to Penny & Catherine for a lovely stay in La Petite Folie. We were sent off with hugs & good wishes!

We set the GPS to <b>Vimy</b>. It would be a 3-hour drive.

As we neared the town, the sun peeked through the clouds and the warm light bathed the white stone of the Canadian memorial. It took my breath away!

Standing at the base of the memorial, I was deeply moved by the imposing structure and by the statues, each telling a story of sorrow & pain. As I walked around the memorial, I saw the names of Canadian soldiers carved into the stone. They were men who were killed in France during WW1 and whose final resting places were unknown. In total, there are 11,285 names.

On this day, my husband & I gave thanks.

We set the GPS for <b>Bermicourt</b>. A short drive later we arrived at <b>La Cour de Remi</b> (www.lacourderemi.com). We turned off the road, passed a set of iron gates and drove down a long gravel driveway towards a chateau. The setting was beautiful! We followed the signs to the hotel which was located in two buildings beyond a stone gate. The buildings were part of the original farm & had been completely renovated to house bedrooms & a restaurant. The family lives in the chateau. We parked the car & walked to reception. We were greeted by Sebastien and his dog, a good-natured German pointer.

Our room #5 was on the upper floor with a slanted but soaring ceiling. It was a large room with a sitting area, a sleeping area beyond & a writing desk set in front of a window. The bathroom was spacious & modern. Low windows at floor level brought light into the room from both sides. There was a generous cupboard for clothes but since we were here for only two nights, we decided to live out of our suitcases. The decor was contemporary (simple, plain) with hints of rustic elements (wooden ceiling beams).

The day turned nasty & cold. I made us tea & turned on a bit of heat to take the chill away!

We had reservations for dinner at La Cour de Remi's fine restaurant! It was so convenient to walk across the courtyard for our evening meal.

The dining room's decor was once again a mix of contemporary & rustic. It was a very warm, pleasant room. There was a gathering in the next salon which added a nice vibe to the atmosphere! DH enjoyed a glass of scotch as we perused the menu.

Our dinners were SUPERB!!! DH had prosciutto with homemade bread & butter, braised lamb served piping hot in a small lidded cast iron pot with whipped potatoes and steamed root vegetables + tarte au chocolat. I had an onion tart, braised lamb + Sebastien's grandmere's rice pudding with a cherry compote. Comfort food at its best! A bottle of wine, sparkling water & coffee rounded out our meal.

We most certainly will eat and sleep well here!
2010 is offline  
Old Oct 27th, 2012, 02:12 PM
  #50  
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,012
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
This is such an interesting report. I am enjoying returning to places I've been, and learning about new places: restaurants, towns, sites.
Thanks so much for enlivening it all with your enthusiasm.
taconictraveler is offline  
Old Oct 27th, 2012, 03:10 PM
  #51  
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,989
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
2010, delightful report - Merci.

Looking forward to your stay in London.
latedaytraveler is offline  
Old Oct 28th, 2012, 05:57 AM
  #52  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,209
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
taconictraveler: Thank you for your kind words. Glad you are enjoying following along!

latedaytraveler: Hold onto your hat! London is coming soon!
2010 is offline  
Old Oct 28th, 2012, 06:24 AM
  #53  
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 29,581
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
It is wonderful to return and find a place continually wonderful. Enjoying this very much.
TDudette is offline  
Old Oct 28th, 2012, 07:51 AM
  #54  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,209
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Wednesday, September 26th

We were treated to a most wonderful home-cooked breakfast! Imagine being served a loaf of piping hot bread just from the oven with fruit preserves, fresh-squeezed orange juice, yoghurt in glass cups, a cheese & ham board & delicious coffee! The sun shone through the large windows & we basked in its warmth. It was heavenly!

It was a good day to explore a bit of the Somme by car. Our first destination was Saint Omer. We drove along small country roads through picturesque farmlands. Large white (modern) windmills dotted the landscape. Curious, we found a spot to stop and stood below one. It was huge & emitted a distinct hum.

<b>Saint Omer</b> was a sizable town with a magnificant catherdral. Notre Dame had soaring interiors and beautiful grounds surrounding the church & adjoining buildings. We stopped for a pizza lunch at Au Vieux Marche (2 place Pierre Bonhomme) on one of the town's squares.

Our second destination was <b>Cassel</b> with its viewpoints of Flanders plains. Now, it's a pretty scene of farms but we can only imagine what it must have been like during wartime.

It was a lovely day of meandering!

We had another fine dinner at La Cour de Remi. DH had onion tart, farm chicken breast with vegetables & potatoes + grandmere's rice pudding. I had the onion tart (again!), chicken, a cheese course of (dry) chevre, cherry compote & bread which I shared with DH + raspberry panne cotta. We had the usual beverages to accompany our meal. How lucky we were to have found La Cour de Remi with its outstanding restaurant!

It's our last night in France - sigh!


<i>One's destination is never a place, but a new way of seeing things</i>.

HENRY MILLER



<b>Next</b>: Notes from London
2010 is offline  
Old Oct 28th, 2012, 09:14 AM
  #55  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,209
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
TDudette: Yes, you are so right! We had been to Paris, Normandy, the Somme and London before. Not only did it make for a more relaxing stay this time, we were able to see each place through different eyes. And we left wanting more! If we are lucky, we will be able to return one day!
2010 is offline  
Old Oct 28th, 2012, 10:58 AM
  #56  
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 23,778
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 1 Post
I visited a friend in Saint Omer once (yes, it is quite pretty) and we had lunch with some of his cousins -- at the restaurant of the local bowling alley! And it was quite good, actually -- just goes to show that locals can take you to places in which you would never dream of setting foot on your own.
kerouac is offline  
Old Oct 28th, 2012, 12:07 PM
  #57  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,209
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
<b>Notes from London ...</b>


<i>Nothing is certain but expense</i>.

WILLIAM SHENSTONE (1714-1763)


Thursday, September 27th

This morning after breakfast, we left the lovely La Cour de Remi ... reluctantly! We were on the road by 8:30 am.

We arrived at the Da Vinci Parking Lot in <b>Lille</b> just after 10:00 am. It was here we were dropping off our rental car & catching the Eurostar to London. We were not able to activate the entry gate because the lot was full - egads! After several unsuccessful attempts, we backed out of the driveway and tried to go through the adjacent gate. It allowed us to enter but now, we were on the wrong side of the garage to access the car rental offices - sigh! We had to exit and drive all the way around the rail station back to the original gate. In the 20 minutes it took to go around, some cars must have left. We could now enter - yeah! We located the Avis drop-off area where an agent appeared, inspected the car and sent us off in the correct direction to the station!

In Lille train station, I bought some magazines & mints with the last of our coins. We checked in, went through customs and had a short wait for our train.

In just over an hour, we made the trip from Lille to London. It took 20 minutes to go through the Channel Tunnel. We arrived at the beautifully restored St Pancras International station at 1:00 pm.

Just outside, we hired a black cab. According to DH's estimate, it wasn't going to take us long to get to our hotel in Belgravia. But the traffic was heavy, grid-locked in some places. We were a bit 'unsettled' riding in a right-hand-drive vehicle which was proceeding in the left-hand lane down a two-way street! Yes, the traffic patterns would need some getting used to! We could do nothing but sit back & put our trust in the driver. At last, we were delivered safely to the <b>Lime Tree Hotel</b> (www.limetreehotel.co.uk) on Ebury Street.

The Lime Tree Hotel is in a historic building originally constructed in 1834 as a private residence. Inside, there is a pretty dining room, a small sitting area through which one can gain access to the back garden. There are two sets of stairs which take you up on either side of the building. We are shown the far stairs to the second floor - Room #19.

Our room was large and nicely decorated. (It was actually a triple room, the only one available at the time of booking that faced the garden.) There was a small bathroom with modern fixtures. The room had undulating floorboards under carpet which creaked when we crossed the room! But there was a good bed, a shower with decent water pressure and a lovely view of the garden! We loved the character of this beautiful townhouse!

The staff was warm and welcoming. From the moment we arrived, we knew that we were in for a pleasant stay!

We stopped into the <b>Ebury Restaurant & Wine Bar</b> (139 Ebury Street) next door to make dinner reservations for tonight. Next, we had a quick lunch at <b>Jenny Lo's</b> (14 Eccleston Street). Along with two bowls of fried noodles + two bottles of water, we were served a big dose of 'sticker shock' when we received the bill! Lunch was 20£ or roughly $32CAD - yikes! Once the initial shock settled in, we decided there would be no more conversions done. We would enjoy London doing all the things we planned to do! This turned out to be a good decision! After lunch, we walked to Victoria Station where we bought our 7-Day Travelcards.

Back to our room to relax. While DH read, I sat at the desk & wrote in my journal. A cool breeze came through the open window.

We had 6:00 pm reservations at the <b>Ebury</b>. DH's dinner selection from the 3-course set menu was decidedly better than mine. Instead of keeping the food simple & straightforward, it felt like the designer of the menu was trying too hard to make it gourmet. Missed the mark in my estimation. DH had pork with pistachio terrine, beef stew with olives + panne cotta. I had celery soup, sea bass with a compote of eggplant, raisins & hot paprika + clafouti. On the other hand, the food going to the wine bar (burger + chips) looked fantastic! We just have to figure out how to get a table in the busy bar!

We took a very short walk around the block past toney townhouses & a few shops. What a pretty neighbourhood it is!
2010 is offline  
Old Oct 28th, 2012, 12:33 PM
  #58  
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 4,109
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Enjoying your report. Looking forward to hearing about London, my favorite city across the water.
irishface is offline  
Old Oct 28th, 2012, 02:20 PM
  #59  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,209
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
kerouac: It's those unexpected surprises that make wonderful memories!

irishface: Thanks and stay tuned for more on London!
2010 is offline  
Old Oct 28th, 2012, 06:41 PM
  #60  
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 72,755
Likes: 0
Received 50 Likes on 7 Posts
What a wonderful report (and trip)!

In June I stayed just up the block from the Lime Tree - did you discover William Curley at the bottom of Ebury Street?
janisj is online now  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Manage Preferences - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -