Not Your Usual week in PARIS, or Michelangelo at the Police Station??
Dec 13th, 2011, 06:57 AM
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Not Your Usual week in PARIS, or Michelangelo at the Police Station??
We skipped a lot of the usual places that tourists visit in Paris. We had been before: (me: 5 times, DH: twice.) And we wanted to experience Paris NOT from a hotel stay, but with a soupcon of living there. As usual, there were a few things we couldn’t resist seeing again. (who could?)
Our week started fairly easily, with the drop-off our rental at Europcar, where a very nice young lady came to our rescue, refunded that “full tank of gas” cost, (which had turned out NOT to have happened!!) took the car off our hands, and signaled a taxi driver in a big Mercedes to turn around in mid street to stow our luggage and us. (I guess she could see we had had enough driving, especially that last part, directly through the city from the south to the Seine!)
Next we returned with great anticipation to the Ile St. Louis, and to Guest Apartment Services, where Christophe and Phillippe awaited us! We stowed our luggage there, and went around the corner to our first of several meals at Les Fous de L’Ile. www.lesfousdelile.com
This is a very casual place, which we had spurned on our earlier few days at Hotel de Lutece on the Ile, thinking it was just a breakfast place. It became a home away from home, as the servers knew us upon our second appearance, and we learned we could get good wine by the glass, plus small or large meals at almost any time of day. A fun place with a young vibe, and delicious salads, etc.
After that we were escorted to our apartment on the Quai d’Anjou, by one of these great guys who run Guest Apartment Services, and were shown our home for a week.
We really enjoyed having our own place, which made us a bit lazy, but after all, we’re getting a bit long in the tooth, and need to rest more than we did 15 years ago, on our last trip!
The apartment, a one bedroom called Marguerita, has every convenience. The kitchen was larege enough, looked brand new, and though I was not planning to cook much, I certainly could have done so.
Our only problem was one that was brought on by my choice of an apartment on the ground floor to save DH from having to walk up stairs. Thus it was a bit dark, esp. in the bedroom. DH solved the problem of the low lights by going to BHV (what a good excuse!) to pick up higher wattage bulbs. The staff would have done it, but DH had such a good time with his errand that we couldn’t quibble at all! They were nothing but helpful about restaurants and reservations and where to buy food etc.
Location was super, just over a block across the Pont Marie to the Pont Marie metro station, and we very easily re-learned the fine metro system. We ended up using carnets of tickets for the metro, purchased very easily at our local tabac, also just a block away!
I would not hesitate to rent from this group again. They have excellent apartments, but I think all who rent need to get some experience behind them, to be sure about what are the most important attributes in an apartment, for THEM. Next time, I would have an apt. on the First floor, not the rez de chausee, even if we had to walk one flight, and I realize I would like a view, and more light. OK, now I know that, so lesson learned. Meanwhile, we were always in good hands, even tho’ G.A.S. was moving its office that week. (we did get to see their new and improved digs on rue de St. Louis en l’Ile, which was ever so nice, where all the staff were finally together in one place.)
Two of our friends from home were in Paris, so we went by Metro to meet them at Hotel de Varenne, where they were staying in the 7th. www.varenne-hotel-paris.com
We had drinks with them in the nice outdoor passageway, and the hotel looked very nice indeed. They were loving it, and thought the staff especially accommodating.
They had made a reservation nearby at a restaurant that they had tried called Le Basilic, www.lebasilic.fr I had a delicious roast lamb there, at this very popular restaurant, tho’ my friends were disappointed that we could not sit outside on their very pretty terrace.
We splurged on a cab ride ‘home’ and got to see the elegant enchanting sparkling Eiffel Tower on the way!
Our week started fairly easily, with the drop-off our rental at Europcar, where a very nice young lady came to our rescue, refunded that “full tank of gas” cost, (which had turned out NOT to have happened!!) took the car off our hands, and signaled a taxi driver in a big Mercedes to turn around in mid street to stow our luggage and us. (I guess she could see we had had enough driving, especially that last part, directly through the city from the south to the Seine!)
Next we returned with great anticipation to the Ile St. Louis, and to Guest Apartment Services, where Christophe and Phillippe awaited us! We stowed our luggage there, and went around the corner to our first of several meals at Les Fous de L’Ile. www.lesfousdelile.com
This is a very casual place, which we had spurned on our earlier few days at Hotel de Lutece on the Ile, thinking it was just a breakfast place. It became a home away from home, as the servers knew us upon our second appearance, and we learned we could get good wine by the glass, plus small or large meals at almost any time of day. A fun place with a young vibe, and delicious salads, etc.
After that we were escorted to our apartment on the Quai d’Anjou, by one of these great guys who run Guest Apartment Services, and were shown our home for a week.
We really enjoyed having our own place, which made us a bit lazy, but after all, we’re getting a bit long in the tooth, and need to rest more than we did 15 years ago, on our last trip!
The apartment, a one bedroom called Marguerita, has every convenience. The kitchen was larege enough, looked brand new, and though I was not planning to cook much, I certainly could have done so.
Our only problem was one that was brought on by my choice of an apartment on the ground floor to save DH from having to walk up stairs. Thus it was a bit dark, esp. in the bedroom. DH solved the problem of the low lights by going to BHV (what a good excuse!) to pick up higher wattage bulbs. The staff would have done it, but DH had such a good time with his errand that we couldn’t quibble at all! They were nothing but helpful about restaurants and reservations and where to buy food etc.
Location was super, just over a block across the Pont Marie to the Pont Marie metro station, and we very easily re-learned the fine metro system. We ended up using carnets of tickets for the metro, purchased very easily at our local tabac, also just a block away!
I would not hesitate to rent from this group again. They have excellent apartments, but I think all who rent need to get some experience behind them, to be sure about what are the most important attributes in an apartment, for THEM. Next time, I would have an apt. on the First floor, not the rez de chausee, even if we had to walk one flight, and I realize I would like a view, and more light. OK, now I know that, so lesson learned. Meanwhile, we were always in good hands, even tho’ G.A.S. was moving its office that week. (we did get to see their new and improved digs on rue de St. Louis en l’Ile, which was ever so nice, where all the staff were finally together in one place.)
Two of our friends from home were in Paris, so we went by Metro to meet them at Hotel de Varenne, where they were staying in the 7th. www.varenne-hotel-paris.com
We had drinks with them in the nice outdoor passageway, and the hotel looked very nice indeed. They were loving it, and thought the staff especially accommodating.
They had made a reservation nearby at a restaurant that they had tried called Le Basilic, www.lebasilic.fr I had a delicious roast lamb there, at this very popular restaurant, tho’ my friends were disappointed that we could not sit outside on their very pretty terrace.
We splurged on a cab ride ‘home’ and got to see the elegant enchanting sparkling Eiffel Tower on the way!
Dec 13th, 2011, 11:56 AM
#7
Happy to hear another good review of Guest Apt. We loved staying in Hisbiscus and would have booked with them again, but we never seem to get our itinerary in order soon enough and therefore they are always booked up by the time we decide on our dates. Say hi to Phillipe and Tom from the Paytons from Oconomowoc, WI.
The police station is right near you, but what was Michelangelo doing there?
Les Fous de Ile-----we walked down that street many, many times----how did we miss that place? Oh well, we'll save it for the next trip.
The police station is right near you, but what was Michelangelo doing there?
Les Fous de Ile-----we walked down that street many, many times----how did we miss that place? Oh well, we'll save it for the next trip.
Dec 13th, 2011, 07:07 PM
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That's funny, tpayt. We walked by it a few times also. Then walked in one day and found out why so many people seem to spend time there! It really is like the "local" for a lot of regulars, and very handy for renters from GAS.
Dec 14th, 2011, 06:39 AM
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Day two, we went back to what became something of a habit for breakfast. On the days when I didn’t run out for the fresh orange juice on Deux Ponts, and a couple of croissants from Mme. Martin, we wandered together down the ile to the St. Regis, for their E7 breakfast of oj, croissant and café crème. Easy habit to get in to.
This was laundry day, so we started the machine, and went to breakfast. I put DH in charge of that, (oh, how he loves to do laundry! I still haven’t figured it out, after all these years.) Meantime I went down to Mr. Abdul’s little grocery store to pick up necessary and enticing items. (We had already gotten to know him on our earlier days on this great island.)
After laundry was drying, we decided to go to see the famed Grand Epicerie at Bon Marche. Walking to the Metro at Maubert was quick and we found our destination easily.
Although the food displays are staggering, and we found good food to take home for a leisurely dinner, our idea to eat lunch there proved to be a mistake. There is a sort of buffet, and some high tables where one can sit down, but the choices were limited by the time we decided, and we ended up spending too much for a mediocre meal. Actually DH’s curry cabbage salad with smoked salmon was good, but we could have shared it, and saved the exorbitant price of dry smoked salmon on stale hardly toasted bread that I had ordered.
We loved having a night at home, just reading, snacking and drinking wine, plus planning the next days.
TOMORROW: A surprisingly good tourist restaurant!
This was laundry day, so we started the machine, and went to breakfast. I put DH in charge of that, (oh, how he loves to do laundry! I still haven’t figured it out, after all these years.) Meantime I went down to Mr. Abdul’s little grocery store to pick up necessary and enticing items. (We had already gotten to know him on our earlier days on this great island.)
After laundry was drying, we decided to go to see the famed Grand Epicerie at Bon Marche. Walking to the Metro at Maubert was quick and we found our destination easily.
Although the food displays are staggering, and we found good food to take home for a leisurely dinner, our idea to eat lunch there proved to be a mistake. There is a sort of buffet, and some high tables where one can sit down, but the choices were limited by the time we decided, and we ended up spending too much for a mediocre meal. Actually DH’s curry cabbage salad with smoked salmon was good, but we could have shared it, and saved the exorbitant price of dry smoked salmon on stale hardly toasted bread that I had ordered.
We loved having a night at home, just reading, snacking and drinking wine, plus planning the next days.
TOMORROW: A surprisingly good tourist restaurant!
Dec 15th, 2011, 06:26 AM
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Thanks, all for your patience in following the thread!
Tpayt, I'd love to be at your table, along with nukesafe, Piccolina, Nikki, Maine GG, Denisea, FMT, Annhig, Michel, CarolAnn, St.Cirq and all the devoted Paris and France trip report followers and contributors. I agree with (I think it was) Tpayt who said, it feels like we are all friends, even tho' we've never met.
I now know why people have GTG's - so my fantasy would be this group in Paris at the restaurant of anyone's choice. Of course, I have to get back to Paris first!
Tpayt, I'd love to be at your table, along with nukesafe, Piccolina, Nikki, Maine GG, Denisea, FMT, Annhig, Michel, CarolAnn, St.Cirq and all the devoted Paris and France trip report followers and contributors. I agree with (I think it was) Tpayt who said, it feels like we are all friends, even tho' we've never met.
I now know why people have GTG's - so my fantasy would be this group in Paris at the restaurant of anyone's choice. Of course, I have to get back to Paris first!
Dec 15th, 2011, 06:29 AM
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Day Three: Back we went next morning to the St. Regis at the west end of the ile, for our little French breakfast. (it’s at 6 rue Jean de Bellay, right at the bridge that joins Ile St. Louis to Ile de la Cite) Then met our friends from home and set off for the Carnavalet Museum. It’s the museum of Paris History, and I thought it would be a good choice for one of those friends, D, who had never been to Paris before this. It proved an excellent choice, and we stayed a long time.
By now it was after 1:30 and I was thinking “food” and wondering where we could go. As often happens with four people and no plan, we passed several places, where one or another of us didn’t seem overly enthusiastic. Knowing the dangers of such wanderings, I decided to be quiet and go along with the next suggestion.
Soooo, we ended up at what I thought was going to be a very touristy place with ordinary food. WRONG! (again!)
It was the Royal Turenne, at 24 rue de Turenne, near the Place des Vosges – “www.aveyron.com royal turenne” It was crowded and seats were tight to be sure, but the omelette with girolles, that I had, and the mussels that DH had, turned out to be absolutely delicious!! Now, I can handle a touristy place, but I can’t handle mediocre food at tourist prices. Believe me, this was perhaps the best omelette I’ve ever had, and DH is an absolute Tyrant about mussels. He eats them every Monday for lunch here in our village, where we have a marvelous little French bistro, and NONE that he ever has anywhere else, even on Prince Edward Island, (if you can believe it) were as good as his local mussels at Les Baux, right here at home. Until, that is, the ones he had at Royal Turenne! I was astonished when he praised them! So, even with the touristy waiters, who were actually pleasant and fun, this is definitely a place to which I would happily return.
We spent the rest of the afternoon inspecting all the shops on the Ile St. Louis. It’s an easy habit to get in to. You can buy everything from I Love Paris t-shirts, to very stylish knits and gorgeous clothing, and chocolates, and Berthillon ice cream, et cetera, et cetera.
We ended our day, with another quiet evening at “home” with cheese and wine and fruit (and chocolate!!)
TOMORROW: The Retirement Home, yes, really. (Finally getting to the REALLY “unusual” part.)
By now it was after 1:30 and I was thinking “food” and wondering where we could go. As often happens with four people and no plan, we passed several places, where one or another of us didn’t seem overly enthusiastic. Knowing the dangers of such wanderings, I decided to be quiet and go along with the next suggestion.
Soooo, we ended up at what I thought was going to be a very touristy place with ordinary food. WRONG! (again!)
It was the Royal Turenne, at 24 rue de Turenne, near the Place des Vosges – “www.aveyron.com royal turenne” It was crowded and seats were tight to be sure, but the omelette with girolles, that I had, and the mussels that DH had, turned out to be absolutely delicious!! Now, I can handle a touristy place, but I can’t handle mediocre food at tourist prices. Believe me, this was perhaps the best omelette I’ve ever had, and DH is an absolute Tyrant about mussels. He eats them every Monday for lunch here in our village, where we have a marvelous little French bistro, and NONE that he ever has anywhere else, even on Prince Edward Island, (if you can believe it) were as good as his local mussels at Les Baux, right here at home. Until, that is, the ones he had at Royal Turenne! I was astonished when he praised them! So, even with the touristy waiters, who were actually pleasant and fun, this is definitely a place to which I would happily return.
We spent the rest of the afternoon inspecting all the shops on the Ile St. Louis. It’s an easy habit to get in to. You can buy everything from I Love Paris t-shirts, to very stylish knits and gorgeous clothing, and chocolates, and Berthillon ice cream, et cetera, et cetera.
We ended our day, with another quiet evening at “home” with cheese and wine and fruit (and chocolate!!)
TOMORROW: The Retirement Home, yes, really. (Finally getting to the REALLY “unusual” part.)
Dec 15th, 2011, 10:00 AM
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I so agree about the Royal Turenne. I usually stay at an apartment near by and have had several great lunches there.
The asparagus omeltte I had there last spring still brings smiles to me
Is there anything better than the big white French asparagus?
The asparagus omeltte I had there last spring still brings smiles to me
Is there anything better than the big white French asparagus?
