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Northern Spain: Weather/Itinerary in October

We are planning a trip to northern Spain NEXT October (the first couple of weeks) and I have been trying to check the weather THIS year in various cities (Sntiago de Compostela, Santander. etc...) and it varies a lot between warm (70's and sunny) and cool and wet (50's and showers). We do not mind some variability in the weather and are used to packing for different climates, but I just don't want to spend 2 weeks in a cold, clammy car or hotel room. Can anyone give me some reassurance that early October in Northern Spain (Asturias and Galicia) is a reasonable plan or should we head elsewhere like Portugal or Extremadura (we have done extensively Andalucia, Castilla and La Mancha). Our very preliminary itinerary is to fly into Madrid and spend a day driving to Santander with a stop in Burgos for the Cathedral. Then along the Northern coast with stops inland to see the Picos de Europa ( Covadonga and Cangas de Onis). Then over to Galicia to see Santiago de Compostela, La Coruna, maybe Vigo and the Rias, etc.. Our return to Madrid would pass through Leon, Salamanca, Valladolid, Avila and Segovia. I know this is a lot and we will need to eliminate some things. Can anybody help with places they think are "must sees" and other ideas on what was not worth the time to stop? Thank you in advance. Maria

You may find showers in Northern Spain in the first two weeks of October but I do not think the weather will be always cool and awful. I would consider you have time enough to enjoy a trip over there: Madrid-Burgos-Santander (1 day ) Another day in Santander to make a day trip to Santillana/Comillas/Altamira or stay overnight in Santillana (wonderful) . Santillana-Potes ( the weather in La Liebana area whose capital is the small town of Potes is better, so this is the reason I reccommend this place to stay, close to Potes there is a lovely place called Meson del Oso, in Cosgaya ). As you will get soon, drive to Fuente De, superb landscape if the weather is good, arrive there at noon and you will be able to go up to the Cable Viewpoint. Next stop could be Oviedo but stopping on the way to see Covadonga Sanctuary. Oviedo-Santiago (as Santillana and Picos de Europa area, Santiago is a must-see place for me ). Stay three nights in Santiago ( you could make day trips to La Coruña and the Rias. Do not expect Galicia at this time to be quite scenic since the weather there could be really awful. But the food is terrific!!! ). From Santiago you could get down to Leon ( again dry landscapes, Leon Cathedral is impressive and the old town quite nice, you could also visit Castrillo de los Polvazares a picturesque well-kept medieval town or Astorga´s Gaudi palace ) Leon-Salamanca (another must-see, it is probably one of the most beautiful cities in Europe, a lively place with a vibrant university and its well-known Plaza Mayor ) Salamanca-Segovia, stopping in Avila to see the walls from a viewpoint called Los Cuatro Postes. Segovia is also a must-see in my opinion, with its Roman Aqueduct and old streets and churches. San Martin Square is my favourite place there. From Segovia if you have enough time I would reccommend you to go to Parque Natural Hoces del Duraton, not far from Sepulveda, park your car there, and hike half an hour until you get Ermita de San Frutos, awe-inspiring place. Pedraza medieval village is also worthwile. Then back to Madrid. I find it a varied trip full of surprises and places to see and a diverse gastronomy as well.

Hi Maria, Been meaning to say this for some time-you're a traveller dear to my heart-you do such exquisite, detailed planning for your Spanish adventures and seem to love to ferret out the "secret" gems and enjoy going off the beaten path-a true explorer of hidden Spain! I’m so envious of your being able to do your in-depth explorations off season! It may indeed be misty in Galicia and Asturias, though. I’d just like to add a few notes of my own to Pedro’s usual expert advice. We did almost the identical two week itinerary this June but in reverse order. From Madrid to Santander through Burgos: I’d like to encourage you to overnight in Burgos, as there’s much to explore on route, much as there was in the Cuenca region. I think you’d enjoy a detour to perfect little Renaissance Pedraza, only 25 km. from the N1/E5 to Burgos (or you could save this, Riaza, Cuéllar, La Granja and the Duratón gorge until you come back to Segovia). Its Plaza Mayor is lined with "hornos de asar" taverns, and it has a castle which was the former home of Spanish impressionist Zuloaga. (But it's very quiet mid week-comes alive on wks.) On the way to Burgos you’ll pass by brooding Lerma, whose huge ducal palace was supposed to be turned into a Parador. Also Covarrubias, 25 km off the autovía to the right before Burgos, has a charming Plaza Mayor (takes you back to the days of El Cid) with its picturesque half-timbered houses and a 15th c colegiata. In the Museo Parroquial there’s a magnificent polychrome wood sculpture of the Magi by Gil de Siloé. And just 12 km down the road there’s Santo Domingo de Silos, of the Benedictine monks’ "Chant" fame (but they can be heard only at 9 and 7 mid week and wkds at noon). The Monastery has the most beautiful Romanesque cloister, I think, in all of Spain. And the atmospheric Mesón of the Hotel Tres Coronas de Silos makes a nice lunch spot for the region’s famous roast lamb. Also 3 kms away there’s the gorge of La Yecla (look for griffin vultures) for a nice stroll to work off that gargantuan meal! Another gem is the Renaissance Palacio de Avellaneda in Peñaranda de Duero, which has magnificent artesonado carved wood ceilings, plus a picturesque medieval Plaza Mayor and the oldest pharmacy in Spain (17th c) filled with beautiful Talavera ceramic jars. Just outside of Burgos (3 km), don’t miss the Cartuja de Miraflores, built by the father of Isabella, where her parents and brother are buried in elaborate, exquisite alabaster/marble tombs carved also by de Siloé. The 12th c Real Monasterio of las Huelgas Reales, a mile from Burgos, is also one of Castilla’s medieval treasures. Before Santander, the pastoral area of Vega de Pas in rural Cantabria has lovely scenery.

cont. I think you and Pedro have hit most of the "must sees" on the coast of Cantabria. Make sure you stay in the regal, lovely beach area of El Sardinero (the Real, Santemar, Rhin or Hoyuela) rather than uninteresting downtown Santander (they’re like two completely different cities). Plus lovely dining there at La Sardina. But there’s good "tapa hopping" at night downtown. (Mesón Rampalay, Bodega Cigaleña, Cañadío). Santillana is a gem. You can now visit an exact replica of the paleolithic Altamira caves there (without the 3 yr wait!) Tues-Sun from 9:30-2:30, and nearby aristocratic Comillas is also worthy of a stop (Gaudi’s Capricho). In La Liébana on the drive down the spectacular Hermidia gorge on the way to the Fuente Dé cable car, don’t miss the charming little Visgothic church of Santa María de Liébana, also the Monastery of Santo Toribio, which displays a tiny piece of the Original Cross. We spent 2 nights last summer at the Parador at Fuente Dé but still love more the homey, warm Hostal del Oso in Cosgaya-also terrific food there. After visiting the Santina at Covadona, another "must" is a drive (not as frightening as before-added guardrails) up to the breathtaking Swiss Alpine-like Lakes of Enol and Ercilla-this is the highlight of any trip to Picos! Picnic surrounded by the handsome cows next to the lake-it’s truly unforgettable. (See the T&L Oct. article on Asturias) If you like to hike and catch a nice day, the 12 km. walk along the Divine Gorge of the River Cares, from Caín to Poncebos is another unforgettable adventure (you can walk it in sneakers). Here’s an interesting article: http://www.times-archive.co.uk/news/...ltrl02018.html And on the road from Potes to Arenas de Cabrales, stop and visit Julián at his restaurant Casa Julián in Niserias. He’s a virtual encyclopedia about the pungent blue cheese of this area (there’s a cheese contest in Oct.). There are more gorgeous views to be had at the Mirador de Fito, btwn Cangas and the coast at La Isla. The Parador Monasterio de Villanueva outside Cangas, along with the Conde de Gondomar in Baiona, Pontevedra, we feel are the absolute jewels of the entire system, just perfect, incredibly relaxing lodgings that you shouldn’t miss. We also enjoyed our night in Ribadesella right on the beach at the turn of the century mansion, Casa de Paloma Castillo (in the "Azul" suite), and there we visited the paleolithic caves of Tito Bustillo. The only city you mention which I find skip-able is industrial Vigo. I would head straight to Baiona and do day trips to Viano de Castelo, Portugal, Cambados, Pontevedra, La Toja. I’d access the Rias Baixas towns of Muros and Noya from Santiago. Great highway, easy driving from Baiona to Santiago. More about Asturias, Galicia and Castilla-León later! Have a great time planning, María! Oops! I think I just wrote a travel journal! Feel free to email me if you have any questions. Regards, Maribel

Muchisimas Gracias a Pedro y Maribel! As always, wonderful, detailed info for planning an itinerary with lots of little detours and stops for great food. When my husband and I are travelling the "serious" backroads as you both have highlighted our favorite thing to do is look at eachother with knowing smiles and say "We are really kicking Rick Steves' backroads butt now!" (No offense intended to Mr. Steves, but for most semi-adventurous travellers his "backroads" are NOT very far off the tourist track.) I will try to digest all of this advice using our Michelin map and may contact you both directly if I have more questions. Thanks again, Maria

Maribel and/or Pedro, Monasterio de las Huelgas: isn't that the palace where they filmed the movie "The Others"? I know the movie was filmed in Spain, I think it was in Las Huelgas.... You guys are absolutely amazing when it comes to Spain advice. Such a joy to read your posts.

Never mind, I checked it out and the place I was thinking , where "The Others" was filmed, is El Palacio de "Los Hornillos" located in Las Fraguas (Cantabria, Spain).

By the way, Maria, in Leon check out the Royal Pantheon, DO NOT MISS IT! If you can't get into the Parador, check out La Posada Regia; http://www.si-santamonica.es/regialeon/posada.htm. In Santiago, check out Las Casas de las artes; http://www.asartes.com/. Both absolutely charming and gorgeous hotels.

Hi Maria, Sure wish I were taking that trip with you! It will be so much nicer out of peak season. Envidia... Feel free to email me if questions pop up while doing your planning-Rick Steves should take lessons from you! Hi Maira, Yep, they did that filming of "The Others" in Cantabria, and the erstwhile dynamic duo, Kidman/Cruise rented the entire country house hotel Jardín de Carrejo" which was built as a light factory in 1881 (later turned in to a segniorial mansion), in Carrejo, a tiny hamlet adjacent to Cabezón de la Sal, at the top of the beautiful Valle de Cabuérniga and the Saja Nature Reserve. You can see it and even rent it or just snag one room at www.rusticae.es! Has 8 doubles and 2 suites. Would that I could! :) And if you find yourself in that neck of the woods, be sure to make the climb up to Bárcena Mayor. Adorable-quaint-picturesque as heck and declared a National Historic Monument. My husband had the best "cocido montañés of his life in the simple little Mesón del Río Argoza there, but next time we’re sure going to try Pedro’s rec.! Regards, Maribel

Hi Maria, you got a lot of great advise from those who wrote before me, I only wish to agree with Pedro, el Meson del Oso is excellent, their food is superb, we were there several days and people from as far as Madrid was flooding the restaurant, it is a lovely charming place. I also agree with Pedro regarding Salamanca , it is an absolutely lovely city, no words to describe it. Leon is one of my favourites, there we stayed both at the fantastic Parador ( I say fantastic because it has his own church and cloister)and in a charming small hotel called La Posada Regio, this one with better location and also a better restaurant one of the best in town. Las Huelgas of course is a must.! I I believe it is the only place where you can see in good shape robes from the middle ages, I envy you.. you are going to charming places , have fun. Graziella, Buen Viaje

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