Maria

Dear Fodorites,<BR><BR>We have just returned from 2 weeks in Northern Spain (Castilla-Leon, Galicia and Asturias) and have nothing but incredibly wonderful things to report and share. So many thanks to many Fodorites (especially Maribel!) who gave us great suggestions for lodging, sightseeing and some of the most incredible food we have ever had. We travelled with friends (2 other couples) who had never been to Spain and they were equally taken by the unparallelled beauty and history of Spain. I will encourage them to share their thoughts on this forum also so you hear all views. I am still struggling with jet lag, catching up on the mail and the details of my 4 children's lives so I may drag the postings out for a few days before it all gets caught up, so thank you in advance for your patience. <BR><BR>But most of all, for anybody who is interested in a real adventure in non-touristy travel Northern Spain would be ideal. There were several times when my husband and I smiled at eachother and commented that Rick Steves "off the beaten path" doesn't come close to the places we enjoyed.<BR><BR>Gotta run for now and I will try to get back soon for more detailed info for future travellers.<BR><BR>Maria

Maira

Maria, I am so extremely glad to hear the trip went well. You are right about the beauty, history and magnificence of Northern Spain. I really will love to hear how you liked Leon, one of my favorite cities when we did a smilar trip in 1999 (did you visited/stayed at Bodega/Posada Regia?). I sometimes wonder about people going back and back again to Paris, London to the same sights, same hotels, when there is soooo much to discover. They would probably love it just as much or more. <BR><BR>I remembered Maribel gave you totally awesome suggestions; Can't wait to hear about your trip!!!!

Wendy

Very excited to see your trip report Maria as I hope to visit Northern Spain next July.

CathyM

Maria-<BR>I was just before you and spent over 1 week in the Basque country, Castille-Leon and one night in Oviedo (Asturias). I also spent a week in Galicia in April. What a beautiful area that is so overlooked by mainstream tourism. I was so upset that I had only planned on one night in Oviedo as I couldn't believe how wonderfully preserved (and clean) old town was. Not to mention the people in the north are so friendly. <BR><BR>I look forward to your postings and hopefully this will get me on track to post more on my trip!

Helen

Dear Fodorites,<BR>I am one of the lucky ones who accompanied Maria to beautiful,"Green Spain" and I must admit reluctance to spread the news of this area as it is truly an undiscovered gem. We saw almost no tourists other than Spanish people visiting this lovely region and, of course, pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago de Compostela. <BR><BR>We loved our stay in Santiago and the contrast of that experience of a busy University/Pilgrimage destination with the wild seacoast of Galacia. I think we all wished we had more time to meander the non-resort destinations from Finisterre onward. <BR><BR>I simply can not say enough about lovely Asturias and the Picos de Europa. We often felt as though we were in the Alps as we hiked and drove through the mountains past rushing streams and cows with softly clanging bells at their neck. <BR><BR>For those visitors who desire a taste of authentic village/city life, history, Roman ruins, walled Medieval cities and castles, churches and cathedrals beyond counting, natural beauty, physical exercise and a glimpse into the devotion of pilgrims past and present, this trip is a must-do.<BR><BR>Helen <BR><BR>

Briansy

I spent a week in and around Bilbao in September. The area around Bilbao is quite industrialised by that doesn't really detract from the beauty of the area. Bilbao itself is a very pleasant place to spend sometime especially around the Ensanche and the old quarter. Visted San Sebastian which was beautiful likewise Santander, in Cantabria (both had stunning beaches). I also drove down to Vitoria which I believe is the capital of the Basque Country.... another lovely Spanish city.

xxx

I am always glad to read nice things about Asturias and Galicia, but I had to chuckle at seeing them desribed as "non-touristy", "off the beaten path", "overlooked by mainstream tourism", and "undiscovered gem"! What a difference in perspective a couple of months makes!<BR><BR>In July and August, what seems like half the population of Spain takes a very well-beaten path indeed to "Green Spain", which is an extremely popular vacation destination for Spaniards, including the King Juan Carlos and his family. It's still wonderful, but no one would call it uncrowded then!

Maria

Friends, <BR><BR>I think I am losing my mind. I spent half an hour typing up our first 3 days of adventures and the posting got lost! Maybe shorter is better. So if this is a duplicate, so sorry, I must admit to usually being roadkill on the cyberspace highway!<BR><BR>Anyway, the planning for this trip began after my husband and I took 2 trips to Spain (Madrid and Andalucia and then Castilla La Mancha during Semana Santa). I think our friends thought we were crazy to keep going back to the same country so they asked us to include them in our next plans. So we decided on a new trip for us and a trip that would interest our friends and provide lots of variety that can be found in the many regions. So here is the trip and let me know if you want more information about certain things and I will do my best.<BR><BR>Day 1: After flying into Madrid Barajas we grabbed our rental car and headed North on the N1. After about 100 km turned West towards Sepulveda where we grabbed lunch on the Plaza Mayor. Then we headed to the Ermita de San Frutos in the nearby Parque Natural Hoces del rio Duraton. There is a final 5 km road very bumpy out of Villaseca that leads to parking for the Ermita. The walk from parking with the Ermita in the distance on a peninsula created by a sharp turn in the Duraton is almost mystical. But add to that effect the HUNDREDS of huge vultures swooping and gliding in the warm updrafts over the river and you feel like you are on another planet! Really incredible and a wonderful detour that I highly recommend. <BR><BR>Then SW to Pedraza via Turegano (castle closed inside due to the ever-present "obras" (restauration) but the exterior was good.) Pedraza is a wonderful medieval jewel of a town with an almost perfectly preserved Plaza Mayor and lots of narrow streets with shops and restaurants. Very quiet midweek. We stayed at the Posada de Don Mariano (approx 75 euros) which also has a great bar/bodega for casual eating and drinking as well as n excellent restaurant.

Maria

Day 2: Daytrip to Segovia. What a great town! Suggestion: if arriving via auo immediately seek parking at underground Parking Fernando Ladreda (sp?) which will bring you right up to the aqueduct. An amazing piece of architecture even today.The cathedral is also quite beautiful and the Alcazar is every bit as enchanting as the photos. Hiked up to the top of the tower for incredible views. The Throne Room and Reception Salon are also impressive with busts of all the heros of the Reconquest from Pelayo to Ferdinand and Isabel. Great moat! <BR><BR>Had lunch at a wonderful spot called Cuevas de San Esteban with good food, and prices to match and off the tourist beat.<BR><BR>Drove down below the city to get the great views looking up toward the Alcazar from down below and then we both really enjoyed the Iglesia de La Vera Cruz which is an amazing 12 sided Romanesque Church, the only one left in Europe they say. <BR><BR>Then on to Madrid via the scenic CL 601 through the mountains. We stopped in La Granja to visit the Gardens but did not have time for the Palace. Then into Madrid for dinner and overnight with friends.

Maria

Day 4: We went back to Barajas to collect our friends from the States and then all headed to Zamora with a stop in Arevalo for lunch and an afternoon visit to the Castillo at Coca. Do not miss this if you are anywhere in the area. Really an amazing place inside and out (tours only guided and in Spanish but they have English handouts). Our friends were blown away. <BR><BR>Then on to Zamora and the Parador which is really an oustanding one. We had time to enjoy an hour or so during the Sunday evening "paseo" with all the Zamorans dressed in their finest strolling arm and arm with eachother along the streets between the cathedral and the Plaza Mayor. We took the media pension option with the parador and feasted like kings in the dining room.<BR><BR>Day 5: The usual wonderful breakfast buffet at the Parador gave us energy to enjoy the sights in Zamora. There is an excellent Museo de Semana Santa which gave our friends somewhat of an idea of what Holy Week in Spain is all about. We toured the Cathedral and its Museum and saw several Romanesque Churches. The city also has a castillo that was closed for some reason but as usual, the exterior was impressive on its own. Also enjoyed the ancient walls and gates to the city that were still intact.

Maria

Day 6: From Zamora we headed NW towards Orense on the A 52 and then dropped down to pick up the scenic PO 400 after Ribadavia along the River Mino. This was an amazing route that was so scenic and beautiful I really recommend it. It is very narrow and twisty so it is slow going but takes you along the river valley with Portugal on the opposite shore. The route takes you through beautiful, small Galician farms and orchards and vineyards that are so picturesque. However after Salvatierra de Mino it is much less so. We stopped in Tui for a quick hike across Gustav Eiffel's bridge to Portugal...very dusty, dirty, hot and filled with diesel fumes! We continued toward the coast and followed the C550 up to Baiona but this was not as scenic as expected and more crowded so I would suggest just hopping on the quickest road to Baiona.<BR><BR>The Parador at Baiona is simply breathtaking beyond words. A huge castle-like fortress surrounded on 3 sides by the sea with a 3km series of ramparts and walls that you can walk around. Using our handy 5 Night card from the parador this was 67 euros per night with a 12 euro upgrade for rooms facing the ocean!!! Unbelievable. This is a destination to plan your trip around. We just spent the early evening strolling the ramparts and enjoying the terrace views.<BR><BR>Day 7: Rias Bajas: We hopped on the expressway and went straight to Pontevedra for a morning exploring the old city which is beautifully intact. Lots of pretty plazas with churches, noble homes with heraldic signs on the outside, many cruceiros (granite carved crucifixes) and the Church of the Peregrina (Pilgrim) was even shaped like a scallop shell. <BR><BR>We drove along the very slow C550 through Sangenjo, La Toja nd stopped in Cambados for lunch. I think this was a Maribel suggestion: The tiny and immaculately clean Bar Pinto in the Santo Tome fishing quarter. Possibly the best meal we had on the whole trip. The most exquisite FRESH FRESH FRESH seafood grilled perfectly and just barely seasoned with olive oil and salt. Again, we ate like kings: salad, bread, albarino wine, seafood of all types (oysters, 2 kinds of scallops, shrimp, octopus, etc...), dessert, and coffee for 6 people was 77 euros!!!<BR><BR>After exploring the rest of Cambados it started to rain so we headed back to Baiona to relax. In Baiona we explored the replica of the Pinta ship (the Pinta first landed in Baiona with news of the New World), walked along the lower part of the castle walls closer to the ocean, and then explored the small but pretty old part of town with lots of restaurants and shops. <BR>I am embarrassed to admit it, but even after our lunch feast we found a great little bar called O Rincon in Baiona where we had another incredible feast of homemade pate's, pimientos de padron, barnacles (!?!?), galician cheeses, more albarino wine and fabulous desserts for another unbelievably low price.

maria

I can see that I am already misnumbering my days but I think you can still follow along!<BR><BR>Day 8: We left Baiona and took the highway North toward Santiago de Compostela but exited before entering the city and went straight West to Noia to see the Rias Altas. Stopped in Muros to have lunch at another Maribel suggested place: Bar Esmorga for the now routine multi course meal plus wine and dessert and coffee for the menu price of 7 euros each! Our friends really thought they were dreaming. <BR>Again lots of slow but scenic driving along the coast which was less built up than the Rias Bajas out to Cabo Finisterre which was spectacular. This is where I wish we had planned more time as it seemed this area and North (the Costa da Morte) was much less developed and more like what we would have enjoyed the best. Next trip!<BR><BR>We took an inland route into Santiago which was very scenic with lots of galician farms, horreos, cruceiros, etc... In Santiago we stayed in As Artes Hotel, literally across the street from one side of the Parador at half the price (approx 73 euros). A wonderful place that I would recommend to all. Very attentive owners that are very helpful and serve a lovely breakfast to guests every morning. <BR><BR>Santiago is absolutely a magical place. The city center is almost perfectly preserved in an architectural unity with the amazing Cathedral at the heart of it all. We were very surprised at the significant number of pilgrims of all ages and nationalities streaming into the city. Great tapas eating all along the Rua Franco, our favorite was O' 42 and also Casa Elisa. Besides the Cathedral, museum, crypt area there are many other sights in Santiago. A good Museo del Peregrino (Pilgrim) and the Church of San Martin really was "over the top" in Baroque decor and embellishment. In the evening we even caught a Tuna (university troubadors) singing in the Plaza and another street musician playing the Galician bagpipes. We spent 2 nights in Santiago before heading on to Asturias.

Maria

Day 10 (I think): We honestly thought that our trip could never exceed the sights, food, scenery and architecture we had already enjoyed in Zamora, Baiona and Santiago. We were wrong. Asturias is so wonderful (I had actually been there 25 years ago) and it was even more beautiful than I remembered. <BR><BR>We took an inland route through Lugo (the Medieval walls of Lugo are fantastic but we had to enjoy them in the car because of rain) and then North on N640. South of Ribadeo we turned towards Taramundi on AS 21 and immediately entered one of the most beautiful valleys with picture perfect farms on the hillsides. The Oscos valley defies description and the town of Taramundi is well worth a detour off the beaten path. It has many artisans working making knives, weaving, food products, etc. We had what some on the trip say was our best meal at the Hotel La Rectoral which we would love to return to and spend several days enjoying and hiking the Asturian countryside all around Taramundi. After Taramundi we headed North to the Coast and stopped at Ortiguera, a very scenic little fishing village. Then on to our overnight stop in Luarca. Stayed at one of the Casonas Asturianas called la Villa de La Argentina, a great place (55 euros) with a very attentive and english speaking host, Antonio, who helped us with directions to walk into town (10 minutes, all downhill) and gave us restaurant suggestions. Had a great meal at the Meson de la Mar on the harbor with lots of seafood washed down by Asturian cider poured with one hand and the bottle overhead into glasses held below the waist! Just one night in Luarca but on our way out of town the next morning we took time to stop at the cemetery that has the best view in all of Spain! On an incredible high point overlooking the ocean is an old cemetery (a Nobel Chemistry prizewinner is buried there) with the most fantastic view. Then on to Cudillero, another great little fishing village. At this point we split into 2 groups to travel to Cangas de Onis. One group travelled inland to Oviedo to see the Romanesque Churches of Naranco and de Lillo and another followed the coast past Villaviciosa and then went inland at the Mirador del Fito. Both were great routes. Stayed at the Parador in Cangas and loved it. We hiked along the trail along the river both ways one into town the other just along the river. Had drinks at the Puente Romano and did some shopping and exploring. The next day we drove to Covadonga and past to the Lagos de Enol and Ercina. After a couple false starts finding the hiking trail we hiked up to the lakes which were heart-achingly beautiful with grazing cows all around and deep green pastures surrounded by mountains. I think this was the single most beautiful day of our trip.<BR><BR>The Basilica at Covadonga and the crypt of Pelayo and the cave where the Virgin was seen were quite moving in the swirling mist and clouds that settled in after our descent. Also, the hike along part of the Garganta Divina was just that DIVINE!<BR>

Maria

Day 12: After 2 nights at the Cangas Parador (we had dinner one night in town at Casa Mario...excellent fabada and other things) we left the Picos de Europa and drove to Leon via the Disfiladero de los Beyos. Unfortunately the travel day through here was kind of misty and cloudy but even then the views were beautiful and we knew that under better conditions they would be specacular. Instead of driving straight into Leon we went to Astorga (about 1/2 an hour west of Leon) and really enjoyed the cathedral there and the outside only on the Bishop's Palace which is an Antoni Gaudi creation which houses a Pilgrim's Museum but was closed on Monday. Other things in Astorga that sounded interesting were the Museo de Chocolate.We had lunch at the Maragato restaurant which was, if not our favorite, the most authentic and interesting. If someone really wants more details on this I will be happy to share. The short version is that it is this huge meal of meat and sausage, chickpeas and cabbage, and soup which is eaten "backwards" from the way it is typically consumed in the rest of Castilla! <BR><BR>We arrived in Leon later in the afternoon and the Parador in Leon was practically a huge museum with cloister, church and huge salons and even an incredible coffered ceiling in one of the public rooms. We stayed in the "new" part which was perfectly fine, but maybe the older section might have been more memorable. Hotel guests and non-guests alike can take the twice daily "tour" to see the 3rd floor choir of the church although this is pretty much a Spanish only tour and the english translations were very skimpy. The Cathedral in Leon is justifiably famous for the most beautiful stained glass in Spain which is undergoing renovation now but can all still be seen. The restored sections are visibly more clear and beautiful than the unrestored sections. We also saw the famous Church of San Isidoro which holds the royal Pantheon and the semi-restored Romanesque ceiling frescoes are remarkable. Again, tours are almost entirely in Spanish but English hand outs.<BR><BR>At this point the weather was cooler and rainier and we were pretty exhausted from so many sights. After 2 nights in Leon we headed back to Madrid to meet other friends for dinner and for our final evening before flying home. Final stop was in Penafiel to see the castle which is now an excellent wine museum. Very informative with audio tapes in English. The tour of the castle was in Spanish only. The castle is situated on an incredible ridge and shaped like a huge ship and is imposing and magnificent from both far and near. Final magnificent lunch at a small restaurant in Penafiel called (sp?) Latraga, I think I may have this slightly wrong and am hoping our friends can correct it. (It is just below the castle as you are coming down the road before town take a left and then the first right). There are 2 "respiradores" for wine cellars in the street outside the restaurant.<BR><BR>That's it! We stopped in Cuellar to see a few sights on our way to Madrid but the entire town was shut down for a funeral so we just went on.<BR><BR>A fabulous trip that had something of everything. Please let me know if I can help answer any other questions.<BR><BR>Maria

Art

Thank you for the great report Maria. I think that the areas you visited are worth another trip to Spain.<BR>

Kay

Maria,<BR>great trip report...I've never been to Spain but it's on my list...trouble is the list keeps growing!<BR>I noticed you had a rental car, is this the best way to travel? Would you miss out on too much only using trains/buses? We have driven overseas but not that much. What was the traffic and parking like?<BR>Thanks, Kay

Art

Kay, I rented a car for my trip to Spain 2 years ago and found driving quite easy. The cities can be a little difficult due to street names changing often (sometimes every block) but other than that, the main roads are in good condition.

Maria

Just getting back to the comments/questions by XXXX and Kay.<BR><BR>I am sure that travelling anywhere in Spain or Europe in July or August is a completely different scenario than October which is off season. Except for our trip during Holy Week we NEVER travel during peak holiday times: air fares are expensive, all destinations are too crowded, prices are sky high, roads are congested, restaurants jammed, etc... Fortunately we have the flexbility to make that choice. If you are considering these places in the summer; yes, they will be crowded and prices much different.<BR><BR>Kay, we prefer renting a car as it gives us more flexibility than buses or trains. We have less time and prefer covering more territory and off the beaten path places than bus travel might afford. However, driving a car in Spain, like other European destinations, involves unfamiliar road signs, very narrow and crowded streets in cities with limited parking and, I think, the skill to drive a manual transmission as automatic rentals are NOT guaranteed by rental companies and the cost is very high.<BR><BR>Another comment for others, I speak Spanish which was extremely helpful but not mandatory for our trip. Spain does not have nearly the number of English speakers as other countries and not all tours have English guides. Especially outside of Madrid, and certainly in the smaller towns, English speakers were not available. So it should be a consideration for your trip but not an impossibility.<BR><BR>Maria

cooter

Maria:<BR><BR>Thank you for the excellent report. I also visited Coca (my first time) a couple of weeks ago and really enjoyed the castle as well.<BR><BR>On the car issue, I agree that if you want to get to smaller, out of the way places, a car is a huge advantage. I have not found driving in Spain to be much different than the US, except the roads are narrower and the cities are somewhat harder to navigate. Major congestion, of course, in places like Madrid, where you would not want a car anyway. Parking can be a problem, but all cities have underground parking lots (called, conveniently enough, &quot;parkings&quot that are usually the best bet. Roads in general are in good shape and have plenty of signs.<BR><BR>

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