Northern Spain, suggestions welcome...
 

We are going to northern Spain for three (or more) weeks in October and would appreciate some input. We are active senior Americans, independent travelers, who have been to Europe twenty five times. We love Spain and have traveled much of the country in our dozen trips there, but have never been to the north.

We are flying rt ATL-BCN and will spend a week in Barcelona. Then we will fly into and out of Bilbao where we will stay at the end of our trip before returning to Barcelona.

Our first stay will be San Sebastian. Unless someone can convince me otherwise, I think Oviedo will be as far west as we will go.

Where would be a good place to stay in between? Gijon? Santander? Leon? Vitoria? Somewhere else? We do not wish to stay anywhere for less than three nights.

Thank you.

we liked Santander very much.
have not been to other places on your list.

Are you planning to include Cangas del Onis, or other destinations in or near Picos de Europa?

Are you planning to drive?

The Michelin Green Guide might give you some good ideas for an itinerary, or at least what is to be seen between the beginning and final destination. I recommend Taüll for its Romanesque frescoes, although the originals are in Barcelona. The monastery of San Juan de la Peña is also worth a stop.

Hi Judi,

You don't say if you are driving or not. A few years ago I traveled by coach bus( very comfortable) from Salamanca , ending in Bilbao. The interim stops were Zamora(Parador), León (Parador- one of my favorites), Oviedo (Hotel de la Reconquista), Cangas de Onís (Parador-my other favorite!), Santander (Hotel Bahía) and Bilbao.

Thanks for your prompt replies and your ideas.

We do not plan to rent a car. We actually get a kick out of public transportation and its challenges.

cruiseluv, which of those towns did you like best?

Hi Judi,

That's a tough one to answer.... I liked them all , for different reasons. Maybe Zamora would be last on the list. The Cathedral in León is so magnificent and I liked the Parador so much, that maybe of those mentioned it was my favorite.
I don't know if I would enjoy Santander as much in October. I have always been there in the summer. Similar to San Sebastian is a beach resort town. I have not been to SS but the beach of Sardinero in Santander is gorgeous! Cangas de Onis,and the Parador there, is also special. From there I visited Covadonga and the lakes of Enol and Ercina.

we were in Santander end of Sep, beginning of Oct.for 6 days, there was only one rainy day, the rest of time was rather warm.

Later in Oct. may be more rain all over the North.

Thanks, danon. Santander is probably the one destination I am not sure about. I understand that it has a nice promenade but the beach is moot and we will be spending time in San Sebastian.

cruiseluv, you have made a good argument for Leon. The parador is beautiful, reasonable and in the city. I think it will end up on my list. Thanks.

Judi,

If you get to Leon, make sure you go and see the Cathedral from the outside around midnight. They dim the lights in the Plaza, and then light the Cathedral from the inside. The effect through the stained glass windows is quite something. Of course, looking at the stained glass windows from the inside will also take your breath away!

Thinking about this makes me regret I'm not going back to Leon on my trip next week!

I love Northern Spain.
San Sebastian and nearby villages: Hondarribia, Zarautz, Getaria.
Bilbao and Castro Urdiales in nearby.
Santander and nearby: Santillana del Mar, Suances, San Vicente de la Barquera.
Ribadesella, Cangas de Onis and Picos de Europa mountains.
Oviedo and nearby. Gijon, Cudillero.
It's tough to choose.
www.spain.info/TourSpain/?Language=en

Having recently travelled along the Northern Coast I too would back up Revulgos ideas.
and add Comillas- Castro Urdiales and San Vicente de la Barquera
Yes it is tough to Choose!

It is really tough to choose! I see that we are going to have to stay four weeks.....

Revulgo, am I to assume that you think the first destination in your lists would be the best place to stay with the others being day trips?

As we do not plan to have a car, how difficult will it be to get around the Picos de Europa?

ribeirascra, thanks for your input as well.

danon, even though we prefer not to have rain, we won't melt!

cruiseluv, Leon and the Parador are on my list! Have a fun and safe trip next week.

Thank you Judi.

Regarding traveling around Picos de Europa without a car: I did a day tour from Santander to Potes, Fuente De and Liebana. There are also bus companies that offer transport to these towns from Santander, but I don't know if it's only seasonal. I'll try to find my notes about it.

Also while staying in the Parador in Cangas de Onis, I took the bus transport up to the lakes of Enol and Ercina and then on the way down stopped in Covadonga.

I believe there are day tour operators in Cangas and Potes that organize hikes and various day visits around the Picos area.

Sorry, cruiseluv: the 'Daytrip' tours to Potes & Fuente Dé are seasonal. They will not be available October-November. But there is scheduled Bus Service (i.e., la Palomera Bus Company) between Santander & Potes. I think there are 2-runs a day.
I took one around 9AM in early Spring, stayed at Hostal Picos de Europa, and returned to Santander the following day around 4PM. I had time to visit el Monasterio de Santo Toribio where they claim the largest fragment of the Cross on which Christ was Crucified is kept guarded.

Judi writes: "Our first stay will be San Sebastian. Unless someone can convince me otherwise, I think Oviedo will be as far west as we will go."
If I went that far, I would continue on to Santiago de Compostela (I am a Catholic)

Judi,
Yes, I think the first destination is a good base to explore the surrounding area. My fav hotels are:
* SAN SEBASTIAN: Hotel Londres. The best location in town, close to the main beach and the "Parte Vieja" (old town).
www.hlondres.com/i-index.htm
* BILBAO: Hotel Conde Duque. In front of the Guggenheim museum and near "Siete Calles" (old town).
www.bestwesternhotelcondeduque.com/eng/index.htm
* SANTANDER: Hotel Bahia. Close to the ferry port and downtown.
www.gruposardinero.com/hotelbahia.php
* GIJON: Hotel Alcomar. Superb location close to the beach and "Cimadevilla" (old town).
www.hotelalcomar.com/index.asp?lang=en
* LEON: Parador de San Marcos. One of the most famed "paradores" of Spain. The building is a former palace of the 16th century.
http://www.parador.es/en/tratarFicha...do?parador=102

Revulgo, you are so kind to list hotel recs for me and I think those cities sound good as bases. Thank you so much!

Ned, I appreciate your input as well. I am still not convinced to go to Santiago de Compostela as I am not Catholic and don't feel moved to do a pilgrimage. The overnight at Hostal Picos de Europe is an idea to think about.

Judi: Jack Hitt, who wrote 'Off the Road,' an amusing account of his experiences on the Camino (including some interesting Historical stuff), is also not Catholic.

We also atayed at the Conde Duque in Bilbao. We discovered a small but excellent restaurant called Artxnta (pronounced ar chan ta) on the street that runs behind the Hotel, going toward the high Bridge. The Hotel fronts on rio Nervion. In Bilbao, take a few hours and tour the Mercado Central. It's across the river from the Casco Viejo.

Speaking of which, Bilbao's old quarter is shaped like a helmet because of the river's turns. Although you'll hear many people referring to a Casco Viejo in other towns, that title belongs exclusively to Bilbao.

I don't know in what month they curtail Service but when I was in Potes in early April, there was no local Bus Service beyond Potes (i.e., to Fuente Dé0.

Enjoy the Cocodo de Liebana. It will feel like you ate a brick. If you continue on to Asturias, Fabada Asturiana will give you the same feeling. I think the only difference is the Beans: Fabada uses Faba Beans; Cocido uses Garbanzo beans.

Nice plan. I like Barcelona and San Sebastian. But still, I would prefer to go west... Santander in Cantabria is a nice city. Small towns like Llanes and Covadonga and the city of Gijón are some of my favourites in Asturias. I like Oviedo, but I would consider going to Gijón instead.
In Cantabria you should taste Orujo and local blue cheese called queso picón. Asturias is famous for the local cider (sidra natural) and Fabada, of course. And you should eat marisco, sea food. Percebes is the local specialty.
The above mentioned Potes in the Valley of Liebana is the center of Orujo culture and a place to go especially if you are interested in walking/hiking. The National park of Picos de Europa with its sharply pointed peaks resembles the Alps. You will find the walking routes from: http://www.topwalks.net/en/picos_de_europa.htm
This part of Spain, Cantabria and Asturias, is my favourite!

walksntalks.
I read with interest you bit about Orujo and done some more research on the internet. I never knew it was produced in Asturias--- Sidra yes!
The DO for this fine liquid is held in Galicia.
http://www.orujodegalicia.org/esp/
We learn something new each day.