easygoer

Good day all. I have put some thought into our itinerary. I had way too many bases to tour from. Here is our new plan including hotels that were recommended from the wonderful board members. I have broken up the 15 nights into 5 places with three nights each. Please let me know if you think one place should be 2 nights and another 4 nights.

First and foremost, each base must have great food, preferably within walking distance. Any restaurant suggestions are appreciated. Hotels can range around the 200+ euro range, but I would of course prefer lower due to the Euro (which has dropped from $1.60 to $1.49 wow!). Pools are also a nice plus. There are just two of us and we travel to Europe every September. Last year was Northern Spain Part 1, Barcelona, Costa Brava, San Sebastian and Santander. (I’m still working on a trip report – coming soon).

I dropped Leon and Los Picos de Europa from the trip since we have been there before. The other option I had thought of was to drop Oviedo from this trip and spend more time in Galicia. However we love the coast and since we’ll be inland part of the time, we’d like as much time in coastal areas as possible.

Fly into Madrid – Rent a Car
Salamanca Base Hotel – NH Palacio de Castellanos
Day 1 – Salamanca (Day trips to Avila, Segovia, Valladolid and Zamora)
Day 2 – Salamanca
Day 3 – Salamanca

Long drive about 4 hours. We can stop in Leon if it’s not too crazy to drive into.

Oviedo Base Hotel – Hotel de Reconquista
Day 4 – Oviedo (Day Trips Gijón and the Costa Verde)
Day 5 – Oviedo
Day 6 – Oviedo

Central Galicia Base – I’m confused here. There has been chat back and forth about the two regional Paradors, Parador de San Estevo and Parador de Monforte. We don’t want to be stuck in a Parador where we have to eat there every night. Which has the better town dining? I’m trying to convince my hubby to stay in a Casa Rural (Casa Santo Estevo looks lovely). That may be the best way to experience this area.

Day 7 –Central Galicia (Day trips in the Riberia Sacrá area, Monforte)
Day 8 – Central Galicia
Day 9 – Central Galicia

Baiona Base Hotel – Parador Castillo del Conde de Gondomar (Via Ourense)
Day 10 – Baiona (Day trips southwest Galicia)
Day 11 – Baiona
Day 12 – Baiona

Santiago de Compostela Base Hotel – Hotel Rua Villar
Day 13 – Santiago de Compostela (Day trips to Northwest Galicia)
Day 14 – Santiago de Compostela
Day 15 – Santiago de Compostela
Day 16 – Fly Home
Fly out of Santiago de Compostela

Let me know what you think. Thanks again for all of the help putting this together.

easygoer

I just checked the NH Palacio de Castellanos in Salamanca and they are booked for the first three nights of our trip. Any other hotel suggestions would be appreciated. Perhaps we could use Segovia or Avila as a base.

Maribel

Hi easygoer,
Since I've just returned from our annual 5 weeks in Northern Spain, I've missed some of your initial planning, but here are some thoughts about your new plan.

I really applaud your 5 bases, 3 nights each plan. Really great.

Smart to eliminate León & Picos here and save for a later repeat visit. I do remember you had only 1 night for the Cangas Parador, and to do the Asturian Picos justice, folks need at least 2 nights if not 3.

For SALAMANCA:

you might be interested in the new NH Palace sister to the Castellanos, the NH Puerta de la Cathedral or the snappy AC Palacio de San Esteban.

While Avila, Zamora and Valladolid (National Museum of Sculpture!) as easy day trips,
I see Segovia as more of a stretch, being 2 hr. 40 min. by bus.
I would choose 2 (Avila and Valladolid). You can stop at the Parador in Zamora on your way to Oviedo, which is smack in the middle of the historic district.
Ciudad Rodrigo is also within easy striking distance.

for OVIEDO:
Hotel de la Reconquista is comfortable, if now a teeny bit ragged around the edges, more of a 4 star than a 5. But it has a handy garage and is close to the wonderful park. I was impressed by very up to date 4 star Hotel Libretto, facing San Francisco park and closer to the Old Quarter. (competitive internet rates)
www.librettohotel.com

Oviedo great food-
La Corrala del Obispo (Woody filmed a scene of Victoria Cristina Barcelona there)
Casa Fermín (Woody & family dined there-2 Campsa suns)
Casa Conrado (1 Campsa sun)

Gijón will only take a half day

Dining outside the city:
Casa Gerardo in Prendes (3 Campsa suns-best in Asturias)

Dining in Gijón:
Casa Víctor right in the center, on Carmen 11 (€18 menu)

Costa Verde day:
Cudillero, Cabo Vidio (views) to the west
or...
cider country-Villaviciosa, fishing hamlets of Tazones, Lastres to the east, Punta Rodiles beach

Dining on Costa Verde:
in Cudillero at Casona de Pío (away from tourist hordes)
in nearby Oter at Casa Consuelo (classic for fabada)

in Lastres at Casa Eutimio (another classic) or new Barrigón de Bertín (up-and-coming, creative)

for CENTRAL GALICIA:
Parador Santo Estevo has more remote and pretty setting, Montforte more central and slightly better Parador overall??? (I defer to ribeirasacra on this one)

On route to Baiona, I would certainly make a stop at Ribadavia for its Ribeiro wines and its ancient Jewish quarter-atmospheric town. A visitable winery is Víña Mein outside of town on road to Leiro, also a cute rural hotel. My friend, a wine buyer loves to visit this place.
www.vinamein.com

for BAIONA
For my money this Parador is just worth every penny, one of the crown jewels, but be sure to book a water view room (such as 137). And cuisine at Parador is better than in town, plus you have a casual option besides main dining room.

Day trips down to Viana do Castelo in the Portuguese Minho, to Cambados, the capital of albariño wines, and the island of La Toja, down to A Guarda (lobster capital-try one at Bitdorna or Anduriña at the port) and ancient Celtic castro of Monte Trega.

I'd do a lunch and touring stop in Pontevedra when moving from Baiona to Santiago. Lunch at Alameda 10.

For SANTIAGO:
Hotel Rúa Villar makes a nice base. If not available, my second choice would be the completely renovated 4 star Hotel Monumento San Francisco (friend who runs deluxe bike tours really loves it).

Day drive along Rías Baixas fishing villages of Noia, Muros, up to Fisterra. If you want to go further afield to the Costa da Morte, there's Muxía (where there will be a future Parador) and lace-producing fishing village of Camariñas. (I defer to Laurie & others on great walks & drives here).

Dining in Santiago:
Casa Marcelo for gourmet (Rúa Hortas)
O 42 for tapas (Rúa do Franco)
Vinoteca La Viña de Xabi for wines (San Pedro de Mezonzo)
O Dezaseis for casual (Rúa San Pedro)

Dining on Rías Baixas
Pepe Vieira or Taberna de Rotilio in Sanxenxo
Alborés in Noia
Yayo Daporta in Cambados
Loliña in Carril (near Vilagarcía de Arousa)

Great to fly home from Santiago, saving a full day for touring.

Really nice plan you now have!

Maribel

easygoer,
Meant to add that the boat to the Cíes islands leaves from Baiona only during high season; otherwise, you need to take it from Vigo. I'm not a big Vigo fan, preferring Pontevedra and its Old Quarter, but NED knows far more about Vigo than I, so I defer.

Maribel

easygoer,
One more note about Oviedo.

Please make sure to take the short drive up to Monte Naranco above the city to visit the beautiful pre-Romanesque (900s) churches of San Miguel de Lillo and Santa María del Naranco. You can walk from one to the other-even if you miss the inside visiting hrs. (via guided tour only), they really are worth seeing from the outside, plus the added treat of great views of the entire city of Oviedo from that perch.

easygoer

Maribel, now I'm really exciting. Thank you for putting life into my itinerary. I’m jealous that you spent 5 weeks there. I love your guides. They are so full of helpful information.

I just checked with NH hotels on line and they had availability at the other hotel you mentioned, the NH Puerta de la Cathedral. It looks lovely. I’m so thrilled. I need to start booking hotels.

This will be our forth trip to Spain. We also spent two wonderful weeks in Portugal. Spain is our favorite country in Europe. We love the people, the sightseeing and of course the food is the best ever. Thank you so much.

annhig

hi, easygoer,

as Maribel mentions, one of the reasons for going to Valladolid is the museum of sculpture. Although our visit took place about 25 years ago [at least!] I still remember the intense impression it had on me.

if there is one place to go to explain the darker side of the spanish psyche, this is it.

it's a definite "not to miss".

regards, ann

Maribel

easygoer,

As Ann says, the Museo Nacional de Escultura in Valladolid is a real "must see", as the statues are so unbelievably life like-very moving. Everyone I've taken there has been impressed.

Hours are:

March 21-Sept. 30
Tues.-Sat.: 10-2 and 4-9
Sun./hol.: 10-2

Oct. 1-March 20
Tues.-Sat.: 10-2 and 4-6
Sun./hol.: 10-2

CLOSED MON.

www.museoescultura.mcu.es

I could sense immediately from your posts and your excitement that you are a true Spain lover (and excellent planner)! I think you've done a really great job in planning what I'm sure will be just a wonderful trip!

ribeirasacra

Thanks for the complements about the house.
If you want a Paradore and want to eat out then go to Monforte. There is a restaurant just down the hill, so you will not have to drink and drive.
Santo Estevo is isolated and you will have to drive about 5-10 mins to the nearest town. It has just one or two restaurants. The nearest city, so with the biggest choice is Ourense, something like 20 mins drive away.
IN SdC if you want cheaper eats then explore outside the main tourist heart. We love to find places where the locals are eating.

easygoer

Hi ribeirasacra, thank you for the helpful information regarding central Galicia. We may stop by and say hi. Do you know the name of the restaurant down the hill from the Parador de Monforte? Any suggestions on the local restaurants are appreciated.

Thanks to all. Here is our almost final plan.

1.) Salamanca Base Hotel – NH Puerta de la Cathedral (3 nights)
2.) Oviedo Base Hotel – Libretto Hotel (3 nights)
3.) Central Galacia – Parador de Monforte (3 nights)
4.) Baiona Base Hotel – Parador Castillo del Conde de Gondomar (3 nights)
5.) Santiago de Compostela Base Hotel – Hotel Rua Villar or Hotel Monumento San Francisco (any preferance?) (3 nights)

Maribel

Hi easygoer,
I haven't yet stayed at the Rúa de Villar, but I certainly trust cruiseluv's reliable opinion and her excellent taste (we seem to be on the same "wave length" too!)
.
I do know that my friend (the one who runs deluxe Spain Camino bike tours) just raves about the completely redone Hotel Monumento San Francisco and the little details that make it so nice.

Why don't you look at both web pages and see what style most appeals to you? Both have very central locations. The San Francisco is more "monument Parador-like", a former monastery.

I'm glad you found room at the new NH in Salamanca. And I promise that you'll love the Parador Conde de Gondomar in Baiona (remember the sea view room!).

Sounds like you're all set!

I just thought of another restaurant that is on the very top of my list to try in Santiago-

Restaurante Ana (Olvido 22)
I discovered it in Spanish gastronomy guides and a Spain gastronomy web site that I read regularly to find "off the beaten tourist path", mostly locals type places.

Ana is a young woman chef offering fresh, innovative cuisine in a pretty local, a stone home (with stone outdoor patio). Has "an intelligently chosen wine list", and a great RCP (relación calidad-precio, or in other words, a very good price to quality ratio). Non-touristy and won't break the bank.

phone: 981 570 792
Closed Sun. nights and Aug.

Have fun!!

ribeirasacra

Restaurant O Grelo.
http://www.resgrelo.com/
The web site works only in IE and not in Firefox, poor design in this day and age!

Hopefully the weather is ok for your trip, maybe see you then.

lreynold1

Hi, easygoer,

You've gotten recommendations from the pros, but I will chime in anyway with a few additional recommendations.

My experience in this area comes mainly from walking from Irun to Santiago on the Camino del Norte, so my experiences are centered on a pretty straight and narrow line along the coast.

My favorite stretches on the coast from Santillana west were from Comillas to Llanes and Luarca to Ribadeo. I don't know if you're a walker, but if you want some recommendations on beautiful coastal welks, I'd be happy to send some.

Favorite coastal towns were San Vicente de la Barquera, Llanes, and Lastres (all northeast of Oviedo) and Cudillero, Luarca, Tapia and Ribadeo west of Oviedo. Tapia has incredibly beautiful coastal walks almost all the way into Ribadeo.

I would second Maribel's recommendation on the Casona del Pio in Cudillero. We slept in the hotel and ate a very wonderful fish and seafood dinner in the restaurant. If I remember correctly, the guys running it are from Argentina and were very pleasant.

In addition to the pre-romanesque sites Maribel recommends on the outskirts of Oviedo, if you are a fan of this style, check out San Julian de los Prados, another pre-romanesque church in Oviedo itself. I would also most highly recommend the 9th century church and 16th century monastery at Valdedios, on the way from Villaviciosa to Oviedo. The setting is just beautiful, the complex is in a meadow in a valley, and as you walk or drive up out of the valley the views back are spectacular.

Oviedo is one of my favorite cities in Spain. Had a very good seafood meal at El Faro Vidio in the old town. Near the train station is an old beloved bar,La Paloma, which serves a tapa that can best be described as the shrimp version of corn dogs. Now that may sound yucky, but it is really very good. In Oviedo, the pedestrian street Gascona is where you will find virtually nothing but sidra. I think it's an acquired taste, at least it was for me, but having a bottle and enjoying the ambiente and is a must in my opinion.

For just a lovely place to walk, there's a beautiful big park with jogging trails, lots of places to sit, nice mountain views, if you go up the street your hotel is on and hang a left near the auditorium/concert hall. It's one of those great places to watch people of all ages enjoying the outdoors.

If you like cheese, Asturias is the place to try a plate of artisanal cheese. El Peral is one of my absolute favorites, it's a creamy blue cheese. There's a bar very near all the sidra places called Requeran (a non-smoking place, yippee!) that has a great wood board of cheeses. I noted in my journal that it was next to a hotel called Ciudad de Oviedo.

Central Galicia -- As you know from Ribeirasacra, there's not much food around the parador in Sto. Estevo. We ate in the parador and also a couple of dinners in totally uninteresting restaurants a few km away. So sounds like Momforte would be a better bet. I do think you might enjoy a quick detour to the parador Sto. Estevo if you're doing a drive around the Sil River Gorge, because the setting is beautiful. Lots of nice trails leading out from the parador, too.

I spent a few days near Baiona last year and enjoyed Tui and Pontevedra very much. Further up in the Rias, for day trips from Santiago, I think Muros is one of the prettiest towns on the coast. Fisterre is also pretty, it's where many walkers end their Caminos and burn a piece of clothing or two up on the rocks near the lighthouse. Not surprisingly, great seafood in both those places.

When you're traveling around Galicia if you are ever in the vicinity of a town named Baamonde, which is a desolate forsaken place where two rural highways cross and not much else happens, don't despair because you are also in the place where the Restaurante Galicia is located. It was one of my stops on the Camino del Norte and certainly one of the most memorable meals. Absolutely delicious, a fish called jurel. I don't even know how that translates, but it was great.

You've got lots of good restaurant recommendations for Santiago, I haven't been to the high end ones, but liked "16" (O Dezaseis) very much. I'd also recommend la Bodeguilla de San Roque, on San Roque, 13 sort of on the edge of the old town. It's a very popular place, haven't seen many tourists there, with very fresh well prepared food. Pimientos del padron is one of my favorite tapas and they do them very well. Nothing gourmet, but I've sent a lot of fellow Camino walkers there on different occasions and everyone has really liked it. But then, after walking 850 km, maybe anything tastes good.

I'm going to walk from El Ferrol to Santiago in just a couple of weeks, it's a short Camino called the Camino Ingles because it's where all the English pilgrims used to arrive to start their walk to Santiago. It passes through places Maribel has mentioned on other posts -- Pontedeume and Betanzos are the two I remember -- and I'll let you know if I see any not to be missed places or restaurants.

Sounds like you have a great trip planned, one last thing, if it were me, I think I'd add a night to Oviedo since it's so close to so many great places and take one off either central Galicia or Baiona. But it'll be great either way.

Laurie

Maribel

Hi Laurie,
What wonderful suggestions you've given! I was hoping you would join the thread and add your truly expert, insider input.

I actually thought about you and walks with your family (your other thread) while we were in the north. We've really enjoyed walking the Vías Verdes , easy walks (even some handicapped accessible) along the former rail tracks. Perhaps you know them? They're all over Spain (except Galicia), but we've only done them in Asturias, Cantabria and the Basque Country.
www.viasverdes.com

We're now gravitating to 3 night rather than 2 night stays just to be able to settle in and explore in depth, but for easygoer, I think your idea of adding a night to Oviedo and taking away a night in central Galicia does make good sense, as there is so much of beauty in and around Oviedo. I would keep the 3 nights in Baiona so as to do some exploring in the Portuguese Minho (Viana do Castelo being one of my favorite towns!).

I'd also like to hearily second your recommendation of Valdediós (a UNESCO site) and the beautiful drive on the AS 113 from there to the coast.

easygoer,
We did this Pre and Romanesque route in the Comarca de la Sidra from Valdediós to San Juan de Camoca to San Juan de Amandi to San Salvador de Fuente to Santa María de la Oliva to Villaviciosa, finishing with free sparkling cider sampling at the El Gaitero production plant!
The Valdediós site can only be visited by guided tour in Spanish, (tickets purchased at souvenir shop), but it's certainly worth the time, particularly due to its setting. But it's closed Mon.
Open 11-1 and 4:30-6.

As a day trip to the Costa Verde from your Oviedo base, I think the trip EAST would be the prettiest, most impressive option, as the mountain vistas are more imposing on this side.

The western coastal drive from Cudillero to Luarca to Tapa de Casariego is flater and less spectacular, I think. We did the entire coast last summer, splitting our time between Luarca-Cadavedo in the west and Ribadesella-Llanes to the east. We enjoyed the western side for its tranquility and lack of heavy tourism and the east for the more spectacular scenery.

So for your coastal day from Oviedo, I would do the Comarca de la Sidra drive up to Villaviciosa (cider capital) and then hit the coastal fishing villages of Tazones and Lastres, and don't miss the jaw dropping vistas of the Sierra del Sueve to one side, Picos to the other at the lookout point, Mirador del Fito (right off the coastal autovia on the AS 260). Scenery wise, this is a truly remarkable drive.

Or you could really skip Gijón day (unless the San Lorenzo beach really beckons) and instead do the western drive from Oviedo to Pravia to Cudillero-Cabo Vidio-Luarca.

Don't know how you plan your route from Oviedo to Monforte de Lemos. On the coast and back down east or back south to León then inland and west?

Also in Oviedo we really enjoy their small but impressive Museum of Fine Arts.

Just some extra thoughts...

lreynold1

Maribel, I am going to head for Restaurante Ana in Santiago when I arrive in a few weeks. Thanks so much for that recommendation. And that vias verdes site is really great. Looks like Spain is way ahead of the US in creating incentives for people to get up out of their chairs and walk (as I sit here in front of my computer). I will be walking the Camino Primitivo in October from Oviedo to Santiago and several of the stages coincide with vias verdes. I have walked a lot in France also, and learned there that old rail beds are the best walking trails because the grade is never more than 16% and they tend to be nice soft surfaces, which is good for the feet!

Maribel's comments made me think of a couple more things. When driving from Oviedo to Monforte de Lemos, if you take the coastal route you will pass through Lugo after you turn south, and that's quite a treat. The walls rival Avila's. And if you dip down to Portugal from Baiona, I think you would enjoy a stop in Vila Nova de Cerveira. There's a very nice pousada there (the Portuguese version of paradores) and it's a town with a great feeling to it. Lots of nice cafes, it's a very small town, but a nice place to stop.

Easygoer, you've got a wonderful trip planned! Laurie

Maribel

Hi Laurie,
Our Cantabrian based friends recommended the Vías Verdes to us-they've gone down to Puente Viesgo with the baby carriage to walk the Vía Verde del Pas-a great (and easy) family outing amidst beautiful scenery. And many of these are for cyclists and equestrians as well.

My husband and I think as well that Spain is way ahead of the US in creating incentives for people to get up out of their chairs and walk, walk, walk.

When we were recently in the Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve, we felt incredibly dumb and lazy as we drove from Bermeo to Sukarrieta for lunch, a distance of about 5 km., while the locals walked together on their beautifully maintained walking/bike path. In addition, these locals arrived at our very same restaurant not long after we did and after their meal, walked back to Bermeo-caloric intake of that big chuletón for lunch?- not even remotely a problem!
And that walking-cycling path goes all the way from Bermeo into Gernika!

We could certainly take a page from that book!

I agree with you completely that Lugo's walls rival those of Avila! A very pleasant, low key provincial capital worth discovering.

I envy your Camino Primitivo walk, as we have yet to explore Grado, Salas, Tineo, Pola de Allande in the interior. Wishing you a Buen Camino!

easygoer

Everyone has been so helpful with their thoughtful replies. I like the idea of add an extra day to Oviedo. The town sounds lovely. Last year when we did Northern Spain part 1, we made it as far as San Vincente de la Barquera. What a charming surprise. A true fishing village with a castle on top. We watched a fishing boat unload their catch for the day. The husband was on the boat hoisting up the catch and the wife was placing the large containers on pallets. She was quite the worker.

Last night we watched our photos from last year with our neighbors to get into the mood. Cruislov, your suggestion of the Abbas de Londres in San Sebastian turned out to be one our most thrilling hotel rooms. We were there during the Regatas en La Concha, a traditional Basque rowing race. Our room was on the top floor with a balcony. What and experience. Later in the afternoon the riot police showed up. Unfortunately the younger men got a little rowdy in the old town. The silly bars gave them bottles of beers which were broken everywhere. Why not plastic cups?

As far Portugal goes, we were there a few years back and stayed at the Posadas in Viana do Castelo, thanks to Bob the Navigator. Green Portugal was beautiful. That’s one of the reasons we are heading back to Northern Spain.

We are so excited. Thank you again for the assistance.