marigross

I am in the planning stage of a trip to Northern Spain in May 2005. The main focus of this trip will be a hiking tour of the last 100km of the Camino de Santiago (Way of St. James). I have three weeks vacation and one will be dedicated to the walking portion of the trip.

I would love to have enough vacation days to leisurely wander from one village to another, slowly savoring the experience but I do not . I know that a lot of people would not even consider attempting the plan I am proposing but I would like feedback on destinations and sequence. This is my preliminary schedule:

Important note: We always travel with aggressive schedules; I posted one of my plans in the US Board and it was critiqued as a “trainwreck” itinerary. We followed the plan and loved it. We can always sleep at home.

Day 1 – Fly to Madrid, pick up the car and drive north to Burgos (ETA: 2:00PM).
Day 2 – Burgos – explore the town
Day 3 – Bilbao – explore the town and museum
Day 4 – Bilbao and daytrip to the east. Maybe as far as San Sebastian and drive back
along the coast.
Day 5 –Santander and then to Santillana del Mar
Day 6 – Picos de Europa – stay at Potes or Fuente De
Day 7 – Picos de Europa – stay at Cangas de Onis
Day 8 – Leon (unless we decide to go to Oviedo)
Day 9 – Leon
Day 10 – 17 – Meet our tour in Ponferrada and start walking from Sarria to
Santiago de Compostela with a tour company named Spanish Steps
Day 18 – Santiago de Compostela
Day 19 – Santiago de Compostela fly in the evening to Madrid
Day 20 – Fly from Madrid to SJU - We are traveling with FF (SJU-MAD-SJU) and I am scared of what could happen if we missed the overeas flight if the morning flight from Santiago is delayed. If we had booked it as a round trip it would be different but I do not know if I should take the risk. We depart Madrid 10:00 AM.

Questions:
Is the Parador in Fuente De the only option? Is Potes an alternative?
Should I stay another night in Santillana and go to Fuente De as a day trip?
Is it really crazy (even four our mad standards) to try to go to San Sebastian as a day trip from Bilbao or should I just skip it?
I have not found much information on Oviedo, should I go?
Has anyone traveled/hiked with Spanish Steps?

artlover

We're going to Spain again in May, but haven't done this part, so can't help you other than to highly recommend checking out maribelsguides.com.

cruiseluv

Hi Marigross,

I was in Spain this past summer and went to some of the places you're planning to go. I also went to Santiago 2 yrs, ago and loved it.
The trip I did last year started in Madrid and I went to Salamanca, Zamora, Leon, Oviedo, Cangas, Santander( with day trip to Santillana) and Bilbao.
Salamnca, Leon and Cangas were my favorite spots.
In Leon and Cangas I recommend staying in the Parador. Although I liked Oviedo a lot I wouldn't substitute Oviedo instead of Leon. We stayed in Leon 2 nights and we weren't bored. The cathedral there is magnificent.

I think San Sebastian is only an hour from Bilbao. I didn't go because I only spent a night in Bilbao. I flew out of Bilbao to Madrid to get my trip back to US. I liked Bilabao but it's small and I think if you have 2 days there you could do a day trip elsewhere.
How did you find the Spanish Steps company? I would like to do something like that sometime.
If you have any other Q's , let me know.

PS: I grew up in PR. My parents live there.

stormygirl

We did some of the places you are heading to this summer:

http://www.fodors.com/forums/pgMessa...28&start=0

I really would not skip San Sebastian! it was one of our absolute favorite places! We liked it better than Santander, just my opinion.

I think you will find that one day in Santillana del Mar.

JudyC

I think your Itinerary is quite reasonable,not really aggressive.

I have been to these places in Northern Spain this past January and October, and December two years ago.

From Bilbao to San Sebastian is only a little over one hour by frequent bus-an easy daytrip.

There isn't much to see in Santander, perhpas better to spend more time in Santillana del Mar.

If you are interested in architecture, on the way from Cangas de Onis to Leon,it is worthwhile to stop by Oviedo for the lovely old town and pre-Romanesque churches.

On the way from Leon to Ponferrada, perrhaps you could stop by Astorga-an important town on Camino with lovely cathedral and Museum Camino( by Gaudi).

I am afraid I don't know much about tour companies, but I have read some commends about www.walksworldwide.com on the same route.

marigross

Do you think that hotel accomododations can be 'winged by' in May? Probably not in the Picos de Europs since it seems that there are not that many hotels around, what do you think?

Stormygirl and Cruisluv, I had read both of your trip reports and loved them. I used the information in them for setting up the schedule. By the time I get on that airplane I will have Maribel's files memorized

Cruiseluv, you can google "Camino de Santiago + walking tour" and you will find a few companies offering these tours. I have a spredsheet I could send you. Most of them are US based since I guess most european pilgrims hop on the train with their backpack, start walking and head for home once they have had enough . We agonized over committing to this since we are definitely not 'tour' persons but we did not want to hike the Camino with our luggage and try to find hostals before they get full for the day at noon.

Judy C, I do love architecture and romanesque which is why I have not scratched Oviedo from the list.

cruiseluv

Marigross,

Judy's suggestion on Oviedo is a good one. You probably know about this but the Paradores have a 5 night promotion which makes their rates pretty attractive. I believe your schedule has you at least 5 nts in places where there are very nice paradores. I can't say enough about the Paradores in Santiago, Leon and Cangas.
Good luck!

cova

Hi Marigross,

I posted something yesterday, but it seems to have been completely lost in cyberspace

I don´t think you have a rushed itinerary, it looks quite nice. Regarding winging it, it will really depend on your dates. The first weekend in May can be mad (specially if the first of May is a Thursday or a Tuesday, long weekend ahead). Another bad date is the 15th (and I think also the 9th), because it is a bank holiday in Madrid, and people from Madrid love to travel to the North.

For the Liebana stay, I would probably not stay at the Parador, and move down either to the Hotel del Oso in Cosgaya, or to some place in Potes. We stayed at a really great place 5 kms from Potes called La Casona de Baro. The owner is incredibly nice, and the rooms are really beautiful. http://www.lacasonadebaro.com/
I´ll check my notes and send you a few more interesting places.
As you are interested in romanic art, don´t miss Santo Toribio de Liebana and Santa Maria de Lebeña.

The Parador in Cangas de Onis is located a bit further from the town, a short walk. We have stayed there (winging it) at a small hotel right by the roman bridge (aptly named "Puente Romano&quot. From Cangas it is not a long drive to Ribadesella in the coast, a good place to have dinner in the evening and enjoy a walk overlooking the sea.

Oviedo is really interesting, between the cathedral and all the pre-romanic tiny, tiny churches.

There is a book by an english writer, Tim Moore, called "Spanish Steps". If you can find it, grab it and laugh a lot.

Rgds, Cova

marigross

Thanks Cova, I am going late May and early July so I will miss the holiday.

Has anyone been to hear the monks chant in Santo Doming de Silos?

marigross

ttt-anyone else?

Planning is almost as fun as the trip itself...

Maristella