Northern Spain (Cantabria/Castilla Leon)
 

We'll be in Spain in mid March. We're planning on driving between Bilbao and Madrid. We want to spend three nights on the road. I was thinking of spending two
nights in the Parador in Leon. Then one
night in the Parador of Salamanca. Also,
to drive between Bilbao and Leon, I was thinking of driving along the coast then going south through the Picos de Europa.

Several questions. Is the drive from Bilbao to Leon via the Picos reasonable? In March?

Is two nights in Leon and one in Salamanca a good balance? Would it be better to spend more time in Salamanca?

We've been to Burgos and Segovia already. Is there another town in this area that would make a better overnight?

Finally, any restaurant recomendations in Leon and Salamanca?

Thanks in advance,

-- Chad

Chad:
Driving along the coast from Bilbao to S. Vicente and then through Picos de europa to Leon is a beautiful drive, during March there will be snow in the mountains and if you have sunny days (good chances)you will really enjoy.
There are also chances of bad weather but unless there is a big snow storm
you will not have any problems. Just carry winter equipment in your car and
check the weather forecast in case you have to use an alternative road.
I will suggest staying in the parador in "Fuente De" right in the center of the mountain range instead of two days in Leon. Another possibility is going for lunch there.
For your thirhd night Avila is a good place, not as interesting as Salamanca but it is a medieval walled town very well kept.

Car,

Thanks for the suggestions. I've checked on the Parador in Fuente De and it will be closed for renovations until the end of March :-(

I've been looking at Avila. I think we'll probably stop for lunch on our drive from Salamana to Madrid.

Chad, instead of staying at the Parador in Fuente De, you could stay at the Hotel del Oso in Cosgaya (also in the Liebana valley) or some place in Potes.
http://www.hoteldeloso.com/

Rgds, Cova

Cova,

Thanks for the suggestion. The Hotel del Oso looks very nice.

Cova,

One other question. Any recommendations on restaurants in Bilbao? Maribel posted a great list recently. I was wondering if you had any suggestions.

Thanks again,

-- Chad

Hi Chad,
I'm also interested in cova's list, since she's our Bilbao "insider" and gives great recs.

I've stayed several times at the Parador at Fuente De, but in the summer, when it's more accessible. It's is long overdue for a complete redecoration. But my heart still draws me to the sweet family run Hotel del Oso in Cosgaya, which is modestly priced but has that same fantastic location, just a few kms. above Fuente De.
However, in mid March the weather could indeed be iffy, as car says, and the access difficult if you have snow or heavy rain. It's not exactly an easy "hop" down there at all, and the route along the river Deva is sinuous, slow going and dark, although unforgettably scenic.

Instead, I'd suggest you keep closer to the coast but still in the Picos area, albeit on the western Asturias side rather than over in Cantabria. The other Picos de Europa parador,
the Parador of Cangas de Onis, a km. outside the town, is far newer, more plush, more stylish, prettier than Fuente De, quite a stunning renovation actually of a former monastery, as they've kept the ruins intact and restored the 16th century church which is attached. Very serene, and near Covadona and its Basilica plus Spain's most beautiful mountain lakes of Ercina and Enol, above Covadonga. Unforgettable, as well. And it wouldn't be so far a detour on the road to Bilbao. It's far more convenient for coastal Asturias, which is most definitely worth your time. The back way from Leon to Fuente De through Riano and the Puerto de Glorio is challenging and very time consuming even on a sunny summer day (we did it, yikes, in early July). I simply wouldn't do it in March, period.

I love the spectacular monument Parador of Leon, steeped in history and well worth your time, if only for a night, but I'm honestly not fond of the modern, institutional looking, antiseptic Salamanca parador, across the roman bridge and not convenient for easy sightseeing. Although it's also in the process of a thorough refurbishment, so it can only look better on the inside, although not much can be done about the hospital looking facade. In Salamanca I'd choose either the lovely B&B type Hotel Rector or the very stylish NH Palacio de Castellanos, two Fodors favorites. And as much as I love Leon, I'd probably choose to spend 2 nights in Salamanca for its lively ambience in and around the university and Spain's most beautiful Plaza Mayor.
More atmospheric, much more central for the same price.

In Leon, the Parador itself has wonderful gourmet dining in a lovely, relaxed atmosphere (plus terrific buffet breakfast, the best I've ever had in a Parador), plus the Bodega La Regia in the Old Quarter is great.
In Salamanca, for gourmet tapas, I'd head to Bar Momo, featured in the New Spain Tapas book. I'll look for the address later.

Should you go to Cangis de Onis, and are are looking for a casual, fun evening, try Mi Abuelo, a little restauant on the main drag. Good food, and many locals playing cards. Sit, eat, keep your mouth shut, and enjoy!

As always, thank you, Maribel. Your recommendations are invaluable.

I'd been leaning toward spending two nights in Salamanca and one in Leon. Your suggestion really helps on that decision.

If we divide our time like that, we will not be able to spend a night in the Picos. Would you recommend driving from Bilbao to Leon via Asturias without an overnight? Or, am I trying to see too much in one day? I've always wanted to see Asturias, but I can save it for next time if this is too much, and a non-Picos route would make more sense.

Thanks also for your comments on the Parador in Salamanca. Before we get to Bilbao, we're spending a couple of nights at the Parador of Lerma. Those nights and the nights in Leon and Salamanca had me looking at the five night Parador card. If we spend two nights in Salamanca, it doesn't sound like such a good deal.

Finally, I've been reading so much about your famous lists for various regions of Spain. Would you be so kind as to send me those that apply to this route (Madrid -> Lerma -> Bilbao -> Leon -> Salamanca -> Madrid)?

[email protected]

Thanks again,

-- Chad

I have stayed at Hostal Picos de Europa in Potes. It's not really a Hostal, more like a 3-star hotel; and it's within easy walking distance to shops and restaurants. Continental breakfast may be included in room rates. I think the owner rents 4X4's and other sports stuff in case you want to drive up to the ski area.

I recommend Hostal Picos de Europa for a clean, comfortable and inexpensive place to stay. I even walked from there up to el Monasterio de Santo Toribio. That's a 'hike!'

Maribel's advice on the Parador at Cangas de Onis is good! You might also consider Santillana del mar.

Local buses (la Palomera) don't run to Fuente De until 1 May. They terminate in Potes.

Be prepared for some 'white knuckle' driving thru the gorge of the rio Deva. I don't think I would attempt t at night. You might be ready for a copita de Orujo de Liebana (Spain's finest) after that drive.

When I was there in March, the Guardias had a 'mountain/snow rescue' competition going on. So you can count on snow.

Hi Chad,
Please excuse the typos and the non sequitur on my post above. I meant that the NH P de Castellanos and the Hotel Rector in Salamanca are more stylish and more central for your 2 nights.

As NED has confirmed to you, the weather in the Potes-Fuente De area in mid-March can be problematic. Now that I know your complete itinerary and time constraints, I would highly suggest you leave the stunning Picos de Europa area for another trip entirely and do a combo Asturias-Cantabria journey then, with half your time spent on the coast (Llanes, Ribadesella, Santander, a little detour to Santillana) and half in Picos, in Cangas de Onís on the western Asturian side and Fuente De in the eastern, Cantabrian section. There's just so much beauty to absorb, I wouldn't do it just for a night or two! And you definitely should not miss Covadonga and the spectacular and utterly bucolic lake scenery above, better done in late May or June or early fall. And if you enjoy walks, there's a wonderful one you can do through the Cares gorge, the Garganta del Cares in nice weather. You could easily spend up to a week in this beautiful part of Green Spain.
And in Cangas de Onís, the informal cider house, "chigre" at the Hotel Puente Romano at the humpbacked Roman bridge, is another great place for enjoying chorizo a la sidra and the local Cabrales cheese and observing the locals at play and learn how to do the ritual cider pouring, imbibing and discarding. In nice weather you can sit at picnic tables in the garden.

So, in mid-March, I would drive from Bilbao to León via the easier route, on the A68 through Miranda de Ebro, Burgos, west to Osorno la Mayor, Mansilla de las Mulas to León. Both viamichelin.com and guiacampsa.es give this as the quickest route, and you won't need to overnight.

I'll send along those travel notes shortly that include Madrid, León, Salamanca and Bilbao.

Hi Chad,
You may have mapped out your excursions already from Lerma, but just in case you haven't and are looking for ideas..

Just 23 km. east on the C110, you'll find Covarrubias , a village filled with half timbered medieval homes, a lovely Gothic Colegiata with pretty cloister where you'll find the tomb of Count Fernán González, and a delightful porticoed Plaza Mayor. Charming and very Castilian.

Below Covarrubias, there's also the Benedictine Monastery of Santo Domingo de Silos, as I'm sure you know, of the "Chant" monks' fame. The cloisters there are really lovely
And 2 km. below Santo Domingo you have another natural park of gorge for nice walking and bird watching (vultures), the Garganta de Yecla.

If you want to venture down further, the huge Renaissance Palacio de Avelllaneda in Peñaranda de Duero we really found interesting and the salons have gorgeous artesonado carved ceilings, plus the town has Spain's 2nd oldest pharmacy, La Botica de Jimeno with a valuable collection of 200+ 18th century Talavera ceramic pharmacy jars.

Maribel,

Wow! Thanks again for the advice. We hadn't really mapped out much for Lerma as of yet. Our plan for those days had been recover from jet lag, enjoy the "new" parador, and a trip to Burgos. All of the places you mention sound tremendous. I'll definitely add them to my list. Of course, since the trip is four months away, I've got plenty of time to research.

I'm really looking forward to spending time at the Parador in Lerma. I hadn't been there before they converted it, but the photos on the website look great. I'll be sure to post a report when we return.

Maribel:
Do you know if the Parador at Limpias is open for business? If so, that may be another option.

Chad_Ledger:
The town of Limpias is about halfway between Bilbao & Santander (i.e., just south of Laredo). Cristo de Limpias is a Crucifix in the Church there that is said to 'bleed.'

No NED,
It's still not open; seems like those ghost problems that cova told us about (los famosos fantasmas del Parador) have retreated in to the background, and now it's a matter of budget overruns-or so I've read.
on the cantabria.net message boards. Maybe cova knows better inside scoop.

But it probably will be open for Chad's next trip to the northern coast. I would visit it on a Cantabria-Asturias coast- Picos journey.

When it does open, we hope to try it out for a night to make an excursion over to the Encartaciones in Vizcaya and see the palaeolithic Cuevas de Covalanas below Ramales (plus the Cristo, of course). And an obligatory lunch stop at Río Ansón in Ramales (always thinking about a great place to dine!)

Chad,
I know you'll enjoy your stay at Lerma. Since it's not too far from Madrid, it's a great place to rest and recover from jet lag on your first night out. The article about it in the Parador magazine really makes it seem so attractive-you're right. The pics are beautiful.

We recently did a trip through nothern Spain and went to Bilbao for that out of this world Guggenheim. You will probably not feel too safe in Bilbao, a lot of guards with automatic weapons, specially near the museum. We stayed at the NH a couple of blocks from the museum. If we were to do this again, we would stay in this spectacular little seaside town called Castro Urdiales (try the Hotel Miramar), which is 15 minutes from Bilbao and feels very safe. A day trip to Bilbao will suffice if you are an art buff. The best seafood I have ever had I had in a little restauratnt at the town center in Castro Urdiales. On the way to Madrid try stopping in a little village called Santo Domingo de Silos, the famous Gregorian Monks who sing like angels (and have several CD's) live in a monastery there and everynight at 7 pm there is a mass which will give you be best free concert of your life. It truly makes you feel closer to heaven. We spent the night there is a little hotel called Hostal Santo Domingo de Silos, where Eleuterio will cook for you the most incredible roasted meal and his wife will treat you like a king or queen, all for a pitance. Good luck and enjoy the trip!