Northern Spain
 

My husband and I are planning a 10 day trip to northern Spain in November (I know! that is soon!!!) We will be flying in and out of Madrid - a few days each time to see all the sites there as well as a possible day trip to Toledo. We would LOVE some itinerary suggestions! We have thought of going up to Leon for a night, Then Oviedo for a night. Then heading over to San Sebastian where we would stay a few nights in order to fit in day trips to Bilboa, El Ciego (wine tasting), and/or some coastal towns. Where we get stuck is figuring out how best to travel between these places. Help!! We have little time, a lot of excitement, and trouble narrowing down the wonderful world of Spain!?!?!?!

Hi,

You say you want to fit all those places PLUS several days in Madrid? I can't really see how that would be possible. If you haven't been in Madrid before I would suggest at least 3-4 days there, with a day trip to Toledo or Segovia. That would leave only 6 days, including your traveling back to Madrid to catch your flight home. IMO you should decide between going to the Basque area (ie SS, Bilbao, etc) or West to León, Oviedo.

Are you planning to rent a car or do you want to do the trip using public transport?

Select your base carefully. Donostia (formerly known as San Sebastian) is mainly a beach resort and there is not much else than the view over the bay (probably not too fascinating in November).

Bilbao is an industrial town. Its main attraction is the Frank O. Gehry Guggenheim Museum.

When we chose a base in Northern Spain for our vacation in summer, we selected Santander because it is more diverse and offers many opportunities for daytrips (e.g. Santillana del Mar). We even made a daytrip which combined Bilbao and La Rioja (we visited Marques de Riscal with another, even more spectacular Gehry building).

In any case, you need a rental car for northern Spain.

you need a car. Do the Picos d'europa, rioja, pilgrimms way, roman gold field, Santiago di compostela interest you. Each takes you a different way and once off the motorway you will be on slow time

traveller, I´m kind of surprised at your answer. Donostia is everything BUT a beach resort (moreover taking into account the rainy weather in northern Spain). Donostia is one of the most beautiful cities in Europe, with wonderful architecture, great lanscape, awesome food (more three star Michelin restaurants per habitant than in any other city in the world, and a food culture internationally recognised) and beautiful places to visit in the city and in the vicinity.

And Bilbao WAS an industrial town, but it´s been ages since then. The transformation of the industrial area of town into beautiful promenades, green parks...has been internationally acknowledged, the Old Town is well worth a visit and there are so many off the beaten track places to see in the surroundings that the list is endless. The Guggy has been the starting point...and then there´s a totally new city.

If this is your first trip to Spain, you might want to do as much as you possibly can in ten days. But that's probably not a great idea because Spain is a large country and each region of Spain is so unique. We just returned from two weeks in Northern Spain and our favorite part of the trip was the week we stayed at a farmhouse near Comillas and the day trips we took. I might suggest you plan four days in and around Madrid and select one other part of Spain visit. There are many excellent postings here on the various regions of Spain. Also might I suggest you find Maribel's Guides to Spain (free download on the Internet)for some valuable ideas of things to do and see while in Spain.

We just did a 10 day trip to Spain and spent four nights in Madrid - you could easily do day trips to Segovia and Toledo or pick one - and then four nights in San Sebastian as a base for Basque county. (We spent our last night in Segovia and chose not to do day trips from Madrid). From SS we had rental car and we did half day trips to Bilbao and St. Jean de Luz in France which is only about a half hour from SS. My husband and I loved SS and though Bilbao was awesome. Like mikelg said - it has green parks, a great old town, and the guggenheim was so incredible. I could have spent more time there. I also loved our time in France but it was a small beach resort - not really worth it if weather is cold.

I have heard great things about Oviedo too and I had to decide between it and SS for our trip and chose SS for the beach but in November I think either would be great. If I wasn't traveling with a baby I might have done both but am glad that I didn't.

Wow, this is so exciting! Thank you all so much for your responses - I cherish your experienced opinions!!!!
I definitely do not want to squeeze too much in - ending up with a world-wind trip not really "experiencing" anything. So help again...

Few questions....
Can we take a day trip to Leon from Madrid?
If so... Would you include Leon AND Toledo?

I have heard wonderful things of Oviedo and my husband's family is originally from there, so we would live to include it if possible (don't think its close enough to be a day trip) - but again, want your suggestions...
From what most people recommend, a rental car is the best way to travel in Norther Spain? From Oviedo to San Sebastian too?
Or just for day trips from San Sebastian?
Is getting a rental car easy once in Spain or should we consider getting it before leaving US?

We are currently living in Sonoma wine country (very similar to northern Spain countryside so I hear) and definite "foodies".... San Sebastian seems like our kinda town?!?! It would be a good base for basque region day trips - where do you most recommend?

Thanks again!! Can't wait for your responses!

I want to add...

We are willing to take any form of transportation that is best for each given destination.

Just having trouble knowing what is best...

As nice as the Sonoma wine country is, it's not really much like northern Spain (the Basque country, Cantabria and Asturias), which more closely resembles the Pacific Northwest, but the Rioja would be a close parallel.

It would be one very long day-trip if you wanted to go to Leon from Madrid. Burgos is a 2-1/2 hour drive, for Leon you can add another hour. If you plan on traveling by rail, it will take you about 3-1/2 hours to make the trip.

You would be best off in the north with a rental car. It’s the only way to get around and actually see things. And f you want to explore the region by car, I highly recommend staying at a country home outside of either San Sebastian-Donostia or Bilbao.

San Sebastian is the best eating town in Spain. It's Belle Eopque architecture is unqiue in Spain and it is mesmerizing to watch the waters from the bay rush into the city.

One minor correction, San Sebastian is not the former name but the Castilian name while Donostia is the Basque name.

Yes, probably worth mentioning that there are 4 offical languages in Spain of which only one is Castillian (Spanish)and is this is similar to that used in South America though the pronunciation is a bit different. Hence if you visit a museum you may find four phrases describing each picture. 3 will look basically similar and the fourth will be Basque

My Memory of Sonama is that there are nearby large cities or small towns and big multi-lane motorways. Well northern Spain has small towns, then some very dense small cities and Madrid. Fewer motorways and fewer lanes to each of them.

Toledo is certainly worth half a day on its own and with travel and finding your way around it probably works out as a whole day. There are buses from Madrid and that is one of the few trips you might look at without a car. Similar advice for the old Palace (whose name I have forgotten) to the North of Madrid.

Madrid itself may be a bit chilly in November. The city centre is tight and easy to walk around. I guess you know about Spanish eating hours. Madrid has a particular type of operatta exclusive to itself and can be great fun in a Gilbert and Sulivan type of way.

I would split my time between Madrid and San Sebastian. San Sebastian is an extraordinary small city. If you make a car reservation before you leave through a reputable service like carjet.com you will pay the lowest possible price. If you go to rent a car once you are in Spain you will pay a lot more. On my last rental in Seville I did not do this and paid $75 a day through Hertz versus $35 a day carjet quoted me. Also my experience is that car rental in the Basque country is a lot more expensive than Andalucia. This may not be the case in November though.

Following Robert´s advice, I recommend maribel´s guides for detailed info on northern Spain, and www.nekatur.net for excellent, cozy and good priced rural accommodation in the Basque Country.

rickanddaneille

My memory tells me it is about 4-5 hours drive from Oviedo to Madrid. My family is also from that area and we have made the back to Madrid to fly home.

We have completed a similar trip to the one you are proposing and will be traveling over in November as well.

You will definately need a car. We have rented from Hertz, in Madrid and directly from the Airport. We always have made our reservations prior to leaving. We have never upgraded for the GPS, as the areas are pretty easy to get in and out of, even the major cities.

When we were on the Northern Coast, Oviedo - Santander - etc, in November in 2004 .. the weather was pleasant and much like at home (in WV), but we also were not venturing into the Pyrenees, like we are this year.

So, get a car .. consider, picking it up at the airport and leaving Madrid then, touring around, then coming back to Madrid to finish your trip the last few days .. It would be nice to spend the last couple days of your trip in one location, and enjoy the city.

When staying around the countryside, we have stayed at Paradores and found them to be wonderful.

Enjoy. Alexis

I think I have come close to an itinerary....

What do you think?
What 4-5* hotels would you recommend in each location?

Nov 5-6 Arrive in Madrid Stay one night
Nov 6 Drive up to Oviedo with a stop in Leon for lunch and short sightseeing
Nov 6-8 Oviedo - Hotel de la reconquista?
Nov 8 Depart Oviedo, scenic drive along the coast to San Sebastian
Nov 8-11 San Sebastian - Maria Cristina?
Nov 11 Depart San Sebstian to La Rioja
Nov 11 - Stay the night somewhere in Rioja region as we make way back to Madrid
Nov 12-14 Madrid - AC Santo Mauro or AC Placia Del Retiro?
Nov 15 return home :-(

I would pick up the rental car at Barajas and head towards Segovia or east to Alcala´ de Henares since you will be in Madrid at the end and would just be using it to sleep in. Best go straight to a small town IMO.

Alcalá is an historic town very near Barajas and super easy to get to. Within the hour you will be at your hotel bedroom ready to take a stroll, even though the "wrong " direction. It is worth the stopover, believe me. (As would Segovia, too, but you could stop there on way back)

There is a new parador in Alcalá, also and it is Cervantes' birthplace.

This small town has very good shopping and gives you a real quaint Spanish feel.

The next morning, after rush hour traffic, make your way towards Oviedo as planned

Rickand danielle,

I have stayed twice at La Reconquista in Oviedo and was very satisfied with it.

In Madrid I prefer to stay at Hotels closer to Museum area, like the Palace or thr Villa Real. But those you mention are considered very good.

Too bad you will not stay the night in Leon. One of my most cherished memories is seeing the Cathedral stained glass windows at night, lit up from the inside.

No one mentioned Santander... The oldest new city in the North of Spain. It's lovely ... both a college town, luxe beach resort and even a casino. If you're a golf fan, you'll love that Seve Ballesteros used to chip balls up and down the beach here. Try the beachfront Hotel Sardinero, which also has a casino.

Also, consider a night or two in the Picos de Europa... I recommend a lovely inn called the Hotel del Oso. As a college student, I stayed there and dreamed of some time taking my husband there when I found the right guy. 12 years later, with three kids in tow, we finally got to return. It was springtime and just as magical as I remembered. It's still one of our favorite spots. November will give you fabulous views of Los Picos and plenty of snow to see on your way up the funicular.

Plan your time with plenty of days to allow time to stop and sit and sip in sidewalk cafes with a pincho de tortilla, deposit into the cathedral poor boxes, select your fish for dinner in San Sebastian (still can't get used to calling it the "new" name) and enjoying the house Rioja with sardine stuffed olives.

Spain has a sophisticated, deliberate and virtuous pace. Embrace it and have fun!

People from San Sebastian have always been called "Donostiarras"...it may not be that new.

Lincasanova: I share your love for Alcalá de Henares but you didn't mention its Juderia, the Universidad Complutense, or the Storks.

mom23rugrats: Thanks for mentioning Santander, site of the first daily fee golf course in Spain. When I was studying there in the 1960's (at Universidad Internaciónal de Santander, now Universidad Internaciónal de Menendez Pelayo UIMP), it was also the only such course in Spain.

Our most recent trip, we stayed at Hostal de Paris, behind the Casino and the Gran Hotel Sardinero.

In Potes, we stayed at Hostal Picos de Europa, a bit more rustic than Hotel del Oso, but quite adequate.

Nedisreland.. sometimes I just haven't got the time or inclination to write it all out.. and hope the OP will do a little research.. finding the reports here about it. (translation: Lazy). And so often, I shouldn't even still be on Fodors.. so I do tend to make quick, perhaps incomplete posts.

I am surpised more don't A.H. as a first nighter after Barajas. It is so easy, even if it is a short distance ( but by super highway)in the "wrong" direction for some destinations.

Perhaps with the new Parador it will become more popular.

So, after hours of reading both your helpful advice and forum treads, I have made a few different decisions...

After arriving early to Madrid from California, we will pick up our rental car and head up to Pedraza! We have garden view reservations at Hospederia de Santo Domingo for our first night. I plan on eating at El Yantar for lunch (after much salivating from reading detailed experiences).

The next morning we will head towards Oviedo. No confirmed reservations, but tentatively plan on staying at the Reconquista for 2 nights. We plan on stopping in Leon for lunch on the way, and struggle with not making 1 of the Oviedo nights in Leon at the parador.... but switching 3x in 3 days?!?!

We still plan on traveling along the coast to San Sebastian, stopping in all the suggested villages along the way.

Still no decisions on hotels in San Sebastian, Rioja (holding out for a possible cancelation at Marques de Riscal Hotel), or Madrid. Thoughts?

Thanks lincasanova- your suggestion got me to head straight out of Madrid the first night!

Thanks cruiseluv - You confirmed my stay at Reconquista and I have taken more thought into my Madrid choice with your location suggestion.

Thanks bilboburgler and egbert and alexislovesspain - I am definitely renting a car. Good day trip suggestions!

Bookmarking for further trips, great advice here.

If you havae not already thought of it, search the Spanish "Parador" sites, and then plan according to what you can comfortably cover between one and the next chosen one. They are State run, usually an old historic castle, and offer great lodging and local food, very predictable..Parador in Madrid, as I recall, was very nice, great location, etc.

There are no paradores in Madrid and Barcelona and many larger cities. They were originally intended to encourage tourism in the smaller towns and regions.

Also note that the government has added modern facilities over the years and while they may be comodious, they are not castles or convents.

Many of the top paradors are castles and converted convents or important palatial homes.

Do you suffer from jet lag? I hope not as you have not given yourself time to get over this at all. I have done a return trip back to Europe and it was lucky I had a ride back, as me and my pals all felt sleepy or were a sleep.

Nedsireland, I'm glad to find a fellow fan! I went to the University of Santander in 1986... just a few years after you.

Looks like the OP will skip Santander this time, but hopefully, some others will heed our advice.

Also, thank you for mentioning that the Hotel del Oso is in Potes... I left that out!

I have enjoyed all the information! Where are some good lodging choices for San Sabastian for around 100 euro a night?

lincasanova

I love paradores. We have stayed at Reyes Catalicos in Santiago, the oldest hotel in Europe, the one in Avlia where we walked out of our room and onto the walls of the city and the one in the Granada, the hardest parador to book. When we opened our window we saw the mountains and the gardens of the Alhambra.

I was just saying that some modern paradores may not be castles or convents.

Yes, I was surprised at that comment. I read your comment way too quickly and didn't pay heed to the "has ADDED" part. I see your point.

Sorry for the confusion!

No problem.

lincasanova :

Do you live in Spain .. if so what area?

I know I have asked a lot of questions on these Fodor threads, but I have also done quite a bit of research off of Fodors as well ..... We have many, many, travel books on Spain and have reviewed many websites ... but the areas we are traveling are not always highlighted very well.

So .. I am on here looking for more detailed information. I appreaciate your personal insight. If you don't mind .. based on your location, if in Spain, could I ask you some detailed questions.

Thank you .. alexis

Yes, i do. feel free. Not sure I can answer EVERYthing, but I will try my best!

Valencia, but have been here muchos años so I have been around.

thank you

I don't expect EVERY answer :) but appreciate the opportunity to ask someone that might have more inside. I will formulate a few questions and send them at once, as not to waist any of your time.

Unfortunately, Valencia just didn't make it into the "sweep" acoss the country this year. Next time for sure.

I look forward to corresponding with you.

.. alexis

Valencia doesn't make it onto many people's itineraries but if they plan well most are very surprised and impressed with what a pleasant historical as well as modern city it is.

There is plenty to do an see here, from museums to architecture, old and new, as well as a few local dishes that must be tried.