Northern Lazio
 

I was planning to rent a house in northern Lazio for a week next spring but just heard from a recently-returned Fodorite that a week there is probably too much time -- that this area does not have the charm of neighboring Umbria or Tuscany. I would love some input from others before I firm up our plans. Many thanks.

nn,<BR><BR>It depends where you are going to be and what your interests are. If you like Etruscan history, you could spend a couple days visiting Tuscania, Tarquinia and Cerveteri. Civita Castellana and the Garden of Monsters in Bomarzo are also pleasent half day excursions. For lakeside destinations there is Bolsena (only a few miles from Orvieto in Umbria) and Bracciano. Finally, just over the border into Tuscany are Pitigliano, Sovana and Sorano, a fine trio of villages worthy of a stop. <BR><BR>Of course, if you have never been to Tuscany or Umbria, I would put them first on my list for both scenic beauty and pleasent hill towns, but if you have seen those areas thoroughly, norther Lazio is worth your time, in my opinion.

Having re-read your post, I want to clarify that this area does not have the "charm" of Umbria and Tuscany (and far less English speakers as well, if that is an issue). I reiterate that I would choose Tuscany or Umbria first, if you have not already seen those areas; however, Lazio is worth the time if that is what you decide. Have fun.

I agree with Russ. I feel the area is worth about 2 days but could be pushed for more if you include south Umbria. Why not spend 2 days in this area after you land in Rome and then get your rental in south Tuscany--perhaps near the Montepulciano/Pienza area. It is all relative but you will have more options in Tuscany. We have done it twice in April.

~There is loads of places to see and visit in Lazio. For accommodation check out 'Villa Vallerosa' in Selchi, Sabine hills, Lazio (easy to search for on net). We spent a week there in Sept. following a week in beautiful Rome. Lovely 2 week hol.

Thanks, Russ. I'd heard a couple towns in Tuscany mentioned on a program once and jotted them down. I remembered Pitigliano, but the other one -- which started with an S and ended with an o, I didn't quite catch. I'd bet it was Sorano, which I see is very close to Pitigliano. <BR><BR><BR>I also have a question for all of you who have a bit of experience driving in this area. We're considering renting a car in Rome and then driving up to Siena, probably along throughway #2. The other option is to take the train up to Siena and rent a car there, driving in the area around Siena and also back down to the Orvieto/Pitigliao area. So, is the scenery nice, and are there interesting towns, between Rome and the Orvieto/Pitigliano area? If so, then maybe we'll go ahead and drive up from Rome so we can see this part as well. Thanks! <BR>

Just topping to see if anyone has any comments about the area between Rome and Orvieto/Pitigliano.

I don't know that area well, but Civita Castellana is on a dramatic tufa hill sort of like Orvieto (but without the amzing duomo). Haven't been to Viterbo, but it's on my to-do list. If you're willing to cross over to the other side of the highway, Narni, Amelia (very small), and the surrounding hills are nice.

Hey Capo,<BR><BR>Just read your post. It's the proverbial six of one, half dozen of the other. I LOVE to drive in southern Tuscany, so I would chose a car myself. I like to stop at old church ruins and little cafes in villages so small you can sneeze and miss them. I would not go all the way to Siena and then backtrack to Orvieto and Pitigliano. Are you speding the night in Orvieto? If so, take the train there, then pick up the car and drive to Pitigliano and Sovana (Sorano is the one to miss of the 3 if you must edit). <BR><BR>If you haven't already, you must also go to Montepulciano and Montalcino. The drive between the two is beautiful. This can be comfortably done from Siena, although still a long but enjoyable day. <BR><BR>When will you be going? We will be in Rome June 2-6, then up to Bologna to visit friends. Let me know if you have any other questions.<BR><BR>Russ

Thanks, KT & Russ. <BR><BR>KT, I found Civita Castellana on my map and, if we start out in Rome with our car, we may stop there to check it out. Why Viterbo? Anything in particular about it? <BR><BR>Russ, we're definitely going to rent a car. The only question is where we're going to start from, Rome or Siena (or perhaps Orvieto.) If we took the train from Rome to Orvieto and then picked up our car there, as you suggested, I wonder if it would be biting off too much to try to make to it Siena by that evening, while stopping at a few places along the way. If so, it might be better to start in Orvieto, and spend that first night somewhere else on the way to Siena. To give me a frame of reference, any idea how long it would take if we, theoretically, drove directly on Hwy 2 from the Orvieto area up to Siena?

Forgot about your question, Russ. We'd enjoy meeting up with you in Rome but, unfortunately, we'll be back in Seattle by the time you're there.

Capo, I didn't exactly say a lot about Viterbo, did I? Well, it's not on my must-do list, though it's on my to-do list. (Not to be confused with my hairdo list.) As far as I know, there's no single knockout thing there, but it sounds interesting -- intact walls w/ battlements, Romanesque churches, lots of other medieval buildings, Etruscan museum, papal palace.<BR><BR>Now that I think of it, there's a lot of Etruscan stuff (museums and necropli) between Rome and Orvieto, like Cerveteri and Tarquinia. Also the mannerist monster park at Bomarzo and the renaissance gardens w/fountains of the Villa Lante, in Bagnaia (near Viterbo). However, all of these places are also still on that to-do list, mostly because I've usually been dependent on public transportation.

Thanks again, KT. I'm going to put all the Tuscan towns that blow me away in a MonDieu!list. :~)

Speaking of mon dieu, I just read Russ's post and realized that he'd already told you about most of the places I mentioned. Is my face rossa!

Hey, don't let russa make your face rossa! :~)

Capo,<BR><BR>Rome to Siena in one day, with stops in Orvieto, Pitigliano and Sovana is ambitious, but not insane, if you don't mind the driving. You will want about 11 or 12 hours to make the trip. This might help you decide:<BR><BR>Rome-Orvieto 1:30 drive time (I suggest about 3 hours to see the town - add an hour for lunch)<BR>Orvieto - Pitigliano 1:00 drive time (wander around town from 30 minutes to an hour)<BR>Pitigliano - Sovana :30 drive (wander for 30 minutes)<BR>Sovana - Siena 2:30 drive (only about 70 miles, but slow winding roads)<BR><BR>This will add about 2 hours of driving to a Rome-Orvieto-Siena direct itinerary, plus the time in each town. Can't say if you will think it is worth the extra effort. If it were a choice between these and the towns of southern Tuscany (Montepulciano/Montalcino), I'd say skip 'em. <BR><BR>Now, if you are thinking of spending the night along the way, there are a ton of Etruscan tombs in the area to explore. You can also go to the themal springs in Sant&uacute;rnia and sit in the hot waterfall, or go to the spa for a massage.<BR><BR>Let me know of you have other questions.<BR><BR>Russ<BR>

Russ, thank you very much. I really appreciate that information and it will definitely help us in deciding what to do. From driving in Provence three times, I'm used to the fact that distances that look short on map can take quite a while, so those driving times you mentioned are very helpful.<BR><BR>The thermal springs in Sant&uacute;rnia sound wonderful; thanks for the tip!<BR><BR>Someone kindly emailed me about a great-looking hotel in Sorano. We may stop to see if they have any available rooms within our budget and, if they do, spend the night there before continuing on to Siena. We've now decided to take one day away from Nice/Cote d'Azur and add it to Tuscany.

Capo,<BR><BR>Was the recommended hotel in Sorano the Hotel della Fortezza? I grabbed a brochure while I was there a couple years ago. It looked pretty great. You can see it at http://www.initaly.com/hisres/fortez/fortez.htm if you are interested. Let me know how it is, as I will be passing through in June and might want to give it a try. You can email me directly at [email protected]. Have fun!<BR><BR>Russ<BR><BR>P.S. When in Orvieto, do not miss the chapel in the Duomo with Luca Signorelli's Last Judgement (directly to the right of the altar) It's one of my favorite frescoes in the country, and one of the creepiest depictions of Inferno ever.

I just caught a typo I made. The thermal springs are in Sat&uacute;rnia, not Sant&uacute;rnia.

Where is Lazio? I have never heard of it.