triathlonmom

Dear Friends of Fodors:

I have been the silent but very appreciative beneficiary of so much of your collected wisdom over the years, but have never posted a request of my own.

Now I have been challenged to plan a graduation trip for our family of 5 (2 parents and three adult children) in Northern Italy this summer for the last two weeks in July. We want to avoid the heat and crowds. Here is what I need help with:

We want to stay in one spot for at least a week and would like a 3 bedroom apartment. We are all very active and want hike, perhaps even mountain bike. We want to eat great Italian food and meet the locals.

We are leaning strongly toward the Dolomites, but are unclear on exactly what area. We will get to some of the Northern Italian cities while traveling to and from the Dolomites.

Thanks in advance for all your advice!

bobthenavigator

I think you want to locate in the Val Gardena--search under that name for local web sites. We enjoy Ortisei as a base but I do know that the village of Selva also has rental places. I would include Venice and Verona in that loop but it will be hot in any cities that time of year. If you do Venice first then I would drive via Cortina along the great Dolomite road to Val Gardena. Be sure to find the trip report by the Go Family for a detailed review of hiking in the Dolomites last summer.

bobthenavigator

Here is the Go Family report and photo gallery--first rate.

http://www.onelittleworld.com/dolomites_1.html

bobthenavigator

Here are my pics from last Sep.
http://www.slowphotos.com/photo/show...y.php?cat=4441

Jean

Bob has spent a lot more time in the Dolomites than I have, so I'll just say that Santa Maddalena and the Val di Funes (just a little north of Ortisei) is my idea of what heaven looks like. If you get a chance, spend a day there.

http://www.dolomitesclimbing.com/sit...ites_italy.jpg

Have a great trip!

Steve_James

Hi TMom -

I'd second Bob's recommendation to base in Val Gardena - which has some of the best lifts in the Dolomites, so easy access to spectacular scenery for hiking, mountain-biking ... and loads of other activities.

I usually stay in Ortisei, but Selva's a good base too - you can't go far wrong with either.

The Val Gardena website has loads of info and is a great place to start -

http://www.valgardena.it/en/

Let us know if we can be of more help ...

Steve

vakantie

Another vote for Val Gardena! I agree that the scenery is breathtaking. I've only been there during ski season but looking at Bob's pictures it's gorgeous during summer as well. I've stayed in San Cristina (in a 2 bedroom appt) which is nice and quiet. Ortisei looked a bit more lively and has a very cute center. There are loads of appartments for rent even during winter (high season). Try the website Steve gave you for accomodation.

If you go, I recommend a lunch at Comici, which is a mountain hut restaurant known for it's fish dishes (I know, this strikes me as odd as well but the food really is excellent).

rbnwdlr

We spent three days in the Val Gardena last June and felt that three days was plenty. BUT we are not hikers, AND June is not high season so things were closed. We visited Venice, Verona, and Lake Como on our trip. Lake Come, Bellagio in particular, is not to be missed.

triathlonmom

Dear Friends of Fodors,

Hello to all and thanks for your very helpful replies.
Because of your input, I have been hard at work narrowing down an itinerary. The Val Gardena website was a big help in finding lots of great places to stay.

Because our sons will have been travelling on their own prior to my arrival with my husband, and will spend a considerable amount of time in the Swiss alps, our stay in the Dolomites will now be limited to 4 days instead of a week. We will base ourselves in Ortisei at a pension or B&B that will take us on a nightly basis.

Bobthenavigator: I have looked at your trip report, as well as that of Mr. Go. Both are very, very helpful in figuring out what to do and when. The photos are amazing!

Jean: Val di Funes is where I, too, want to go if I ever get to heaven! We will definitely plan on a day there.

rbnwdlr and all of you wonderful contributors:

Another thought that is informing our plans is that while this is a first European trip for our sons, DH and I have been many times. And while it has been over 25 years since we have been to Italy, we really want to share with our sons the places we love, such as the Lake District. We will have 21 days total, a real luxury! We have decided to use trains and buses rather than rent a car.

We are now looking to develop a circular route that will take us from Milan where we will land and return, and include the following some or all of the following: Como, Belagio, Garda, Bergamo, Verona, Val Gardena, Treviso, Vicenza. I am leaving Venice out of this trip because I just don't want to deal with the crowds and summer heat (been there, done that). If any of you feel I am making a mistake, though, I could be swayed!

Pensione recommendations for any of these locations would be most helpful.

Also I would appreciate restaurant recommendations, as we are looking for really really good food so the boys can experience Italian food at its best. Recommendations will be greatly appreciated!!

bobthenavigator

I would think again about a car for that itinrary--you may not need it until you leave Lago Como, but you will for Garda and the Dolomites--especially for 5 people--actually a van.

zeppole

Do you want to go to the opera festival in Verona or avoid it? It has always seemed like it would be a tremendous experience to attend, but you will be in the thick of crowds and need to book early.

Jean

I agree with Bob about the car. I can't imagine getting around the Dolomites on public trans. I'm sure it's possible, but your itinerary would be limited.

Residence Lalimonera (apartments) in Bellagio:
http://www.residencelalimonera.com/

Steve_James

TMom - I too would recommend a car if you want to see the best of the Dolomites.

I regularly stay at this attractive Tyrolean-style pensione (3-star) in Ortisei -
http://www.hotelvillapark.com/

Hope this helps ...

Steve

triathlonmom

Hi again! Life sure can get in the way of travel planning: I have been caring for my sister who broke her wrist (ER, surgery, helping her at home, etc, but doing much better now on her own), as well as working full time, so please forgive my lack of a quicker "thank you" for the advice above.

I have heard your suggestions for a rental car loud and clear, so I did some quick estimates of the cost of train tickets/Italy Rail Passes. I see that the cost of a car rental vs. train is not dramatic, so convenience of having a car will outweigh the additional expense. I have begun the search for a vehicle that can handle all five of us plus luggage. I did some comparision shopping and found that kemwel's prices seem very competative and all inclusive of the taxes, insurance, etc. Do any of you have suggestions for other car rental companies that I should also consider?

I am open to any and all of your suggestions for a circle tour itinerary of Northern Italy starting and ending in Milan. Again, our dates are July 14 to August 4. Alternatively, since I have not yet purchased air tix, we could land in Venice and depart from Milan.

And BobNavigator: where is that gorgeous road you mentioned between Venice and Val Gardena?

Thanks!!

bobthenavigator

Kemwel is a good answer, but be sure to get a van---the Fiat Ducato may be an option. It will likely be manual.

I would start in Venice--to avoid departing from there.
You fill in the # of days, but these are the stops I would make--ending at the lakes and Milan:

Venice--5
Get car--to Cortina--1--I hate one niters but this makes more sense so you can enjoy the next day drive

Drive the Dolomite road to Ortisei via Arraba and Sella pass-4

Drive to Riva del Garda--north end of Lago Garda---3
day trip to Verona

Drive to West shore of Lago Como to Menaggio--5
Day trip to Lugano

Drive to MXP--drop car--last nite near airport

That is a good start---you tweak the days to your preference.

Have you seen my trip report? Just click on my name above to find it. Good luck--these are among my favorite destinations in the world.

triathlonmom

Bob, this is wonderful!! Thank you SO much.

I will review again your trip report in depth, as well as Mr. Go's, and hopefully get all my questions answered there. You are the BEST!

If and when I have more questions about restaurants and special spots, I will re-post under a new heading.

You are a real asset to so many people on this Board, and I really appreciate the time that you contribute.

bobthenavigator

Prego !

BTW, Mr. Go is my son. They are very good travelers.

mr_go

Thanks for the kind words, bob. I'll call this weekend and compare NCAA pool sheets.

triathlonmom: I have to chime in and agree with all the good advice you're getting from bob, Steve James and others here... especially the desirability of having your own car in the Dolomites.

And yeah, you can't go too far wrong with lodging in the Val Gardena. There are about a million to choose from, and many of them with memorable views.

You'll love it. Trust me!

triathlonmom

Bob, I did figure that Mr. Go was your son Plans for the trip are on hold for a couple of weeks, while one of our sons determines if he can make the trip. We want to go as a family, so may need to put it off til next summer. In the meanwhile, I bought a few guide books and maps to enhance the dreaming and planning process.

Thanks again, adn best to all!