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Lago Maggiore-Stresa-Hotel La Palma
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On the Piemonte area and how many days. We spent 3 nights nights in the countryside, 2 nights in Turin. Curiously, I was expecting to love Turin, the possibly the same way that I love Bologna, but I did not. Turin, as the former capital of the area, is a much grander city, with bigger piazzas and bigger buildings. Plenty of people like it, but it didn't click with me. If you have the time and the interest, I'd spend 4 nights in the countryside.
We also visited Alba, because we were there at the time of the truffle festival. Nice enough small city, but we couldn't see much of the city itself, due to the festivities and the huge number of people there. The rest of the time, we drove between the various Barolo and Barbaresco towns. For eating in the Piemonte, here were our favorites. Some are more formal and fancy, some are not. Le Ciau del Tournavento (in Treiso), we ate lunch here (I can still remember the taste of the foie gras raviolis); Trattoria della Posto (just outside of Monforte); and Giardino del Felicin (within Monforte). We went to another place for dinner, and did not enjoy our experience, though the food was good. Except for the day of lunch at Le Ciau, our other lunches were informal places in the various towns. During lunch in Barolo, at Osteria La Cantinella, which was packed with local families having Sunday lunch together, with a few tourists like us thrown in, I noticed what looked like Mama carrying trays of freshly-made (or freshly cooked?) pasta from somewhere on the hillside above us. We also stopped several times at a bar in Monforte, the Barolo Bar. We were always welcomed warmly, even though we seemed to be the only non-locals there. Nice wine selection, and very nice offerings of complimentary antipasti as well (common practice in the Piemonte). I loved our time at Le Case della Sarracca. If you've checked out the website, you'll see how different the place is. Guilio is a wonderful host. At the time, he was working on a cantina that would be in the lowest level; I've heard he's finished that and, I assume, it's now open to the public. He had helpful advice about places to go and to eat, and arranged two visits to vineyards that were very interesting; I especially liked Podere Ruggeri Corsini, partly because it's run by a woman. (The one restaurant that we didn't like, I picked out myself; he said later that he's been treated badly there, too, and he's a local!) I used Chowhound (and a predecessor website) a lot in coming up with restaurants for our trip, including the Piemonte, as well as other sources. That's the one area of Italy that I've noticed foodie-type people recommending Michelin-rated restaurants. My guess it's because food of the Piemonte has French influences, so the Michelin rating criteria (whatever they are) fits in better. Anyway, look at Chowhound, restaurant websites, etc. You'll probably very much enjoy wherever you end up eating. (And some of us foodies love museums, art and history just as much as eating!) |
Thanks for the info everyone. Lexma, very thoughtful reply regarding the Piemonte area. I'm glad you mentioned skipping Turin.
It's starting to come together. Thinking about... 4 nights Bologna - Hotel or B&B ? (Italian Days Food Experiences looks like fun jgg!) 2 nights Dolomites - Would like to do the Great Dolomite Drive from Bolzano to Cortina d'Ampezzo - Hotel? 3 nights Lakes - Lago Maggiore Stresa-Hotel La Palma looks awesome 4 nights Piedmonte - Monteforte d'Alba Le Case della Sarracca looks unique and fun for day drives 3 nights - Not sure? Thinking about Milan to end up our trip Your thoughts on this itinerary are always appreciated. |
Do the Dolomite drive the other direction to end in the Val Gardena---not all the way to Bolzano. Stay at the hotel Grones in Ortisei. Even then, the drive to Stresa will be long. Consider Verona or Bergamo.
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Have u considered Mantova? Its a lovely town, easy to get around and has fabulous food. its an easy 2 hour drive to Milan. Some sites include
The Palazzo Te The Palazzo Ducale, The Basilica of Sant'Andrea The Duomo Cathedral The Rotonda di San Lorenzo The Bibiena Theater The church of San Sebastiano |
Everything was fantastic but the octopus salad is still something I dream about(keep ordering it at other restaurants but so far no one has done it as well). >>
my italian language and cookery course last year included a lesson in making octopus salad. The one we were shown was delicious, but i thought at the time that i would have little opportunity to practice, and so it has proved. So i envy you your chance to eat it! |
Ooo, polipo (octopus) salad. Yum. First time I cooked octopus, i freaked out when the water turned bright red.
I had a brain-storm last night. How does this new plan sound? Again, thanks so much for your input. 16 days Fly into Bologna Bologna - 3 nights Hotel/B&B ? Ortise, Val Gardena - 3 nights Hotel Grones Bergamo - 3 nights Hotel/B&B ? Piedmonte - 3 nights Hotel/B&B (looking at suggestions thanks) Lakes - 3 nights Hotel/B&B ? (Hotel La Palma Stresa is booked boo hoo) Malpensa Airport - 1 night 10:30 am flight out Thanks everyone. Time to set the countdown clock! |
DD just sent us a parcel from Japan including some pre-cooked octopus!
the tentacles are quite small, and i suppose that there is 4 ozs or so. any ideas what to do with it? |
You are making great progress---nice trip.
Bergamo may not deserve 3 nites IMHO. At MXP look at Hotel First---very convenient. Here is my choice in Piemonte--near Alba. http://www.villalafavorita.it/home_uk.html |
I would like to visit Bergamo someday; I researched it for a prior trip, but we decided to cut it. I might not give it 3 nights, either.
How about 2 nights in Milan, including the night before your departure? Over several trips, we flew into Milan but didn't visit the city. Then one year, we spent 3 nights there due to a business trip of DH. I was pleasantly surprised by Milan. Not too big a city, not touristy, with a good number of smaller museums and other places to visit. And the Duomo and the Last Supper, of course. |
easy/g-re room availability at La Palma in Stresa in Sept. have you looked at their website? I notice they have a few rooms left for various dates in september, '12.
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Great ideas. Right now I was planning to fly out of Malpensa but can fly out of Milan airport for the same price. If we did the last two nights in Milan (change Bergamo to 2 nights)it probably would make sense to fly out of MLL instead of Malpensa? I could also flip flop the Lakes and Piedmont if it works better driving wize. Thanks everyone!
Annhig, Regarding Octopus... Cut cooked octopus in bite size pieces Whisk olive oil 3/4 c (good brand - I love Spanish olive oil) lemon juice 1/3 c, salt and pepper (you may not need this much dressing so adjust to just coat the octopus lightly) Sauteed julienne yellow peppers (1" inch sticks or less) and small diced celery until crisp tender, about 2 minutes Toss all together and add some halfed calamata olives and either fresh basil or parsley. Serve warm with crusty bread. I've also served this chilled. Enjoy! |
Hi,
Just wanted to comment on the Dolomites. September AND even October are ideal months to visit this area. The Alta Badia has more "quintessential" Dolomite scenery than Val Gardena in general in my opinion. I can highly recommend the Ciasa Montanara in La Villa, Alta Badia. www.montanara.it There is NO need to follow "The Great Dolomite Road" as laid out in guide books. If you do base in the Val Gardena, here's an easy day drive which we've done that covers 4 Dolomite Passes: Take the Gardena Pass and head to Corvara(Alta Badia). At Corvara take the Campolongo Pass to Arabba. From Arraba take the Pordoi Pass towards Canazei. Before you get to Canazei, take the Sella Pass. From the Sella Pass get right on the Gardena Pass back into the Val Gardena. There's a cafe/restaurant/rest stop at the "top" of the Gardena and Sella Passes. You'll also notice a few small places to park along the passes to get out and walk among the Dolomite peaks. Here's a link to the Dolomite Passes: www.alpineroads.com/dolomites.php Here's a couple of links to the cable cars/liftsschedule in the Val Gardena: www.valgardena.it/en/lifts/page65.html http://www.valgardena.it/en/walking-...ng/page50.html If you do get a rainy day, the very charming old town of Brixen/Bressanone may be of interest to you. While we're not "museum people", we found the Diocean Museum in Brixen facinating. www.brixen.org If interested, we have photo's at: www.worldisround.com/articles/355539/index.html www.worldisround.com/articles/324504/index.html www.worldisround.com/articles/351565/index.html Paul |
Good input from Paul.
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Hey Bob, did you copy and paste that from years ago? LOL
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On flying out of Malpensa (MXP) vs. Linate (LIN), they are both considered to be Milan airports, though Linate is closer. Linate is used more for domestic and some European flights; the flights we've taken tend to fly in and out of Linate, as we usually fly Lufthansa from the U.S. Lufthansa flights connect through Frankfurt, so that's why they fly into Linate.
If you can do either airport for the same price, and you're interested in time in Milan, then Linate makes more sense to fly out of. |
Paul, your pictures are like post cards. So pretty. My question about staying in The Alta Badia or Val Gardena, would be if the towns have nice local restaurants.
Bob, I received an e-mail back from the Grones which included dinner. That is something we never have opted for. Did you eat there when you stayed? Both hotels look lovely. The Ciasa Montanara is very inexpensive. Our price range now that the euro/dollar value is so high, is 200 e or less. I love B&B's my husband is more of a hotel person. I beleive in that area, the quainter the better. Paul, I also found your trip report. You had stayed two nights in the area. Is three nights too many? 330east wrote "easy/g-re room availability at La Palma in Stresa in Sept. have you looked at their website? I notice they have a few rooms left for various dates in september, '12". Our dates for the Lakes are Oct 2 - 4. I saw the availability but would have to switch the trip around. Thinking about that. Boy, it is so much fun planning. Everyone has been so nice. Thanks. |
easygoing - thanks for the octopus recipe. a GF is coming for lunch tomorrow and it being Good Friday, it would be highly appropriate.
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Yes, the best food I have ever had at a hotel---highly suggested. Click on my name to find my trip report for Northern Italy in 2009---my Silver for Gold trip.
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