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Old Apr 11th, 2015, 06:52 PM
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Northern Croatia 5 days

I have five days spare in between two Dolomites expeditions, this coming September. I was thinking of spending that time taking a quick look in northern Croatia, in the region around Pula. (I will be based in Dubrovnik later on.)
I will be driven to Venice on the morning of the 7th and it looks like I can train/bus from Venice via Trieste, or go by ferry from Venice direct to Pula. Does this make sense, and, once in the region, how easy will it be to get around by public transport? (Being from a country that drives on the left, I think I'll opt out of the rental car option.)
I am thinking to do things like the Lungomare Walkway, and visit Brijuni Island. What other, accessible, highlights would you recommend? Would Pula be a good base, or somewhere else? I'm happy with smaller places/towns, and with clean but basic (maybe 2 star?) accommodation.
Would appreciate your thoughts.
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Old Apr 11th, 2015, 07:37 PM
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Unfortunately, many parts of Istria are not as accessible by public transportation as might be ideal -- for example, the hill towns are hard to reach in a timely way without a car.

That said, you definitely have options for an enjoyable visit!

For the lovely Lungomare, I strongly recommend staying any where OTHER than Opatija.

For good information about what places are accessible by public transportation, I strongly recommend the Rough Guide.

Enjoy!
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Old Apr 11th, 2015, 08:39 PM
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Many thanks kja. I will check the Rough Guide. Do you mean that Opatija is too crowded?
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Old Apr 11th, 2015, 09:21 PM
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I found Opatija filled with the worst of "resort" town attributes. It seemed to me to be a wall-to-wall conglomeration of overpriced hotels and restaurants, many that seemed to be in a contest with their neighbors to see who could blare the worst music at the loudest volume. The sidewalks were filled with crowds of ill-dressed fashionista wanna-bes who had to shout to be heard over said cacophony and, in all too many instances, apparently thought that the best way to spend a vacation was to start drinking heavily as early in the day as possible. Not a few people were unable to walk without weaving, and a few could not avoid "sharing" their bodily fluids. Walking without becoming contaminated was a challenge....

In addition to basic tourist-oriented merchandise and some high-end stuff, storefronts displays seemed devoted to really tacky, trashy stuff. Although there were glimpses of interesting buildings, the main street seemed mostly glaring neon and modern facades. Some of the newer hotels do little (IMO) other than block the views of the more interesting older ones.

I was there for a couple of hours just before/during sunset on a Saturday evening in early June of 2009. Maybe things have changed since. Some Fodorites have reported more pleasant experiences in Opatija.

I did enjoy the Villa Angiolina -- that was worth seeing.
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Old Apr 11th, 2015, 09:22 PM
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There are buses Pula to Opatija, Pazin, Bale, Rovinj, Lovran, etc. There are some services for inland Istria but they are not frequent and require careful planning. We did a circuit by bus Rovinj-Pazin-Motovun-Buzet-Porec-Rovinj but it was a full day and we weren't able to spend very long in each place and had to be conscious of not missing the next (and often only) bus. There are some tours from Rovinj but not while we were there in May 2013 (too early in the season). Didn't make it due to lack of time, but have read that Limski Canal interesting.
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Old Apr 11th, 2015, 10:24 PM
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You might also look at Slovenia, which is between Italy and Croatia. I'm not knowledgable of walks and hikes in the Lake Bled/Julian Alps region, but somebody else may be able to help you there.
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Old Apr 11th, 2015, 10:28 PM
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"have read that Limski Canal [is][ interesting"

I read that, too. Didn't think so! But it might be a nice place for lunch....
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Old Apr 11th, 2015, 10:30 PM
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For good info about walks and hikes is the Lake Bled /Julian Alps region, see the Lonely Planet or Rough Guide.
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Old Apr 11th, 2015, 11:29 PM
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Ah yes, Slovenia and the Julian Alps - now you are tapping into more of the confusion I am facing. My initial plan was to enjoy some walking time in the Dolomites, then wend my way through Slovenia and Croatia for 12 days to Dubrovnik, to join a cruise/bike trip around the southern islands.
Then, I got tempted by a guided via ferrata (climbing on fix ladders and things) 8 day trip in the Dolomites. From this I would have to go straight to Dubrovnik - hence the five days left in the middle for a shorter exploration.
OK let's put it out there: 5 days around Istria and the via ferrata Dolomites tour? Or 12 days from Venice, to Slovenia and down the Croatian coast to Dubrovnik? I will be on my own, hence the mix of guided tours and on my own time.
And - if it's the five day exploring option - Slovenia/Lake Bed/Julian Alps, or Istria? I enjoy mixing the outdoors, walking, and history/culture.
One consideration, which region will be easier to access from Venice?
Your thoughts?
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Old Apr 11th, 2015, 11:45 PM
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Unfortunately, that's probably the most important decision that NONE of us can decide for you!

To be honest, I'm not sure I'm actually following your options correctly, but if I am, I believe you options are:
- the ferreta tour ending in Dubrovnik with 5 free days afterwards
- or ferrata + Istria for 5 days
OR no ferreta, with 12 days for Croatia.

If so, well first and foremost, 12 days is NOT enough for Croatia, and whether you like to admit it or not, you won't be able to do ferrata tours for your entire life, so if the ferrata appeals, do it!

And if the ferrata ends in Dubrovnik, then consider spending your 5 free days in the southern Dalmatian area -- Dubrovnik, Korula, Split / Trogir, ... There's more than enough to keep you busy for 5 days there, including some wonderful options for walking/hiking....

BUT really, it sounds like you need to hit the books! Go to your local library to read up on your options. For active options, the Lonely Planet might be your best bet.....
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Old Apr 12th, 2015, 12:03 AM
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Agree with kja - do the via ferrata if you think that the opportunity may not come again.

Dolomites to Dubrovnik in 5 days doesn't allow much time for sightseeing at all.

Despite the relatively short distance, Italy to the Julian Alps by bus and train is not all that quick a journey and involves some changes in transport along the way.

I think the ferry Venice to Pula is only once a day but check. Venice to Pula by train and bus is a long journey and not straightforward (multiple changes) - or at least that's the case if you take the coastal route, not sure about inland.

Another alternative would be train Venice to Ancona(?) then ferry to Split - 4 days to Dubrovnik, perhaps via one or two islands.
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Old Apr 12th, 2015, 12:40 AM
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OK thanks and sorry for the confusion. The via ferrata is in the Dolomites in Italy. That tour ends In the Dolomites) the day before I need to be in Dubrovnik so I would probably have to fly to get there on time (bus/train/ferry timetables are a bit too tight)
So my five days would be in between a walk in the Dolomites, and the via ferrata in the Dolomites - I was just wondering if that gave me time to have a bit of a look at Istria at least.
I think your conversations have at least helped me with Slovenia, and Istria, and yes, it could be the time in my life to do the via ferrata, hey I'm only 60! (Oh, no, 61 now, apparently) - and come back later for other places.
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Old Apr 12th, 2015, 12:52 AM
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Sorry, but I'm still not following your options -- but I'm glad your think we've been helpful!

I love that you are doing the via ferrata at 60 / 61 -- kudos!

Feel free to come back to ask more questions as you think through your options.
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Old Apr 12th, 2015, 01:42 AM
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Yep - I was confused.

Just as a sample, according to bahn.de it's between 6 and 8 hours Venice to Bled and 7.5hrs plus Belluno to Bled. We travelled from Bohinj to Vicenza and it took most of the day. For me, that's too much travel for the time you have available.

When we took the ferry Venice to Rovinj it left Venice about 5pm and left Rovinj about 7am (it didn't run every day). Timetables, of course, might have changed since then. Rovinj is a lovely spot to while away a few days but again you lose a lot of time just getting there and back.

I'd opt for some place more convenient which, happily, there's heaps to choose from. Whatever you decide have fun!
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Old Apr 12th, 2015, 04:28 PM
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Thanks everyone, all great grist for the mill. I'll ponder options and surely it will all come clear. Meanwhile I'll start a new post with regards the Dolomites trekking company...
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