Adelaidean

What an interesting trip!

whitehall

Not a mis-spelling. Korcula is home to one of the rarest of grape varieties anywhere, Grk, Not sure where the name comes from, since Grk means “bitter” in Croatian (and this wine isn’t bitter), but the Greeks reportedly introduced vineyards to Croatia. This variety grows only near the coast in sandy soils.

We don’t know much about male and female grape vines, but they say it is highly unusual that Grk only comes in female vines and requires other nearby male varieties to help pollinate.

We found the wine to be crisp and fruity. We like Reisling, and we liked Grk, a white wine. And, we tasted a handful of red grapes, and they too were delicious and sweet.

There were several small wineries crammed into a seafront area on the eastern corner of the island in an area called Lumbarda, a few miles from Korcula Town. Parking was not easy, and the wine tasting was in what felt more like a little village restaurant than the typical estate winery. But we had a great table and friendly hosts.

Because of its rarity, Grk wines in places like Split, or as an export, can be expensive. Going to the source made it affordable.

Debbielynn

Your pictures are so pretty. Love the dark blue skies and the fluffy clouds!

tripplanner001

I'm with you on Grk. Tried it for the first time when we were in Croatia and loved it.

whitehall

We came out onto our terrace on our third and last morning, and again we were very thankful for another gorgeous day. We advised our landlord, we would give up our planned fourth night. Our problem, not his. Fortunately, the rental was only about $60 per night, but we did decide on a last minute detour to Bosnia. We just felt three days in Korcula was enough.

We took another slow walk through the center of the old town and climbed up one of the several towers that are part of the fortress. This one has a number of displays of photos and costumes as part of a traditional cultural event. The day before we saw a banner across the road in Vela Luka announcing an annual sword dance festival. We missed it, but there are weekly “sword dances” on Thursdays in Korcula Town. It is a dancing version of a mythical sword fight for a princess, probably started in the 15th century as a protest against the royals then in power. Various versions were practiced throughout the Mediterranean, but reportedly the ones on Korcula are the only surviving ones.

It was Sunday morning, and a nun was sweeping the floors and the bells were ringing as Mass was starting in St. Marks, Korcula’s 15th century cathedral. But, it was almost time for us to get out on the water.

whitehall

Korcula has a number of smaller tour boats that typically visit three of the smaller islands. Ours was like a hop on/hop off water taxi, with four stops, the first in Lumbarda for those wanting to do a wine tasting and then there three small islands.

The first island was Badiya Island, home only to a gigantic Franciscan monastery, church and school (not sure where the kids come from, but gotta be coming by boat since there were no signs of any residences on this island).

We walked a path that circles the island. Three miles long. Actually, this day we were the only ones who appeared to be doing it. There was a sign when you got off the boat, forbidding bathing suits, perhaps just skimpier ones. Not sure, and perhaps that was meant for the sea area near the monastery. But as we were walking around the island, we came across a tiny little beach, where a couple, running into the water, took the "no bathing suit" sign literally. They didn’t have any.

We found our own spot for a little junk snack break on a small pier and found that fish, in these sparkling turquoise waters, really liked our wafer cookies.

We went off the main trail to see some ruins and a big, dark colored deer with a large antler rack ran across our path.

Back by the monastery, it was now full of “pilgrims”, who arrived from somewhere on a larger vessel. Some were trying to get "healed" by the priest, some falling over in the aisle.

Outside, a half dozen deer, smaller than one we encountered in the woods, but also with huge antlers, were getting fed by other tourists. We were warned that some of them can be ornery. While we were there, in fact, one of them butted his antlers into a young woman and knocked her over.

Our next island was Vrnik, a big rock quarry island with activity dating back to Roman times. Beautiful stone buildings and lots of ruins of stone houses. We followed a trail, which our GPS map suggested might get us across the island, but there were lots of warning signs and trees cut across the trail, probably by a nearby homeowner. That discouraged us. When we saw the “dead end” sign on a board with emphasis on “dead”, we decided to turn around. And back at the docks, there was a great little restaurant/bar with all kinds of outside seating on the beach for a little more Grk. We settled for tree swings. From there, we watched kids jumping off the docks, enjoying the last of the summer weather. Perfect remote island feel.

Our water taxi stopped at a third island that is home to a resort that has such a tiny beach, many of the guests settle for whatever space they can find on nearby rocks.

We didn't get off and instead headed back home in time for another beautiful sunset and the tower bar.

















































Vrnik Island






Giant olives

whitehall

The coolest bar in Korcula is the tower bar, officially the Massimo Cocktail Bar. It’s located in the most prominent of the several fortress towers. You can drink in a glassed in area at mid-level if it’s too windy upstairs or you’re unable to climb the ladder up to the final floor. They hoist all drink orders on pulleys from down below.

It’s the kind of place that’s small, has great views, and everyone is having a good time. We met a very well-travelled couple from Texas. Before we climbed out of the bar, they invited us to be their guests at their Texas home and, more exciting, to be their guests at an annual musical festival in Spain. He is a musician and is in charge of the festival. We exchanged phone numbers, but we almost always travel outside of summer to Europe, so we will probably have to pass on that kind offer.

Debbielynn

Really enjoying your travels!

whitehall

Thank you. I have often said that the planning for a trip is half the fun of the trip itself. But a certain percentage of the actual fun is also going over photos and reminiscing after the trip, and the trip report affords that opportunity.

whitehall

We plan to do a separate, but brief, report on our 24 hours or so in Mostar and Bosnia, since that was a totally different experience from our time in Croatia. However, although it seemed longer, we did squeeze in that time between our departure from Korcula and our arrival the next day in Split.

So skipping a day, we were back on the scenic, wide and quiet Croatian highways, on our way to Split. Our rental car was even in a good mood. It came with a warning light that occasionally suggested we consider a coffee break.

Instead of the regular warnings about wild boar that we saw in Montenegro, Croatia's signs warned about bears and foxes (or are those graphics of wolves?).

As we approached Split, a castle, high above the city, caught our eye; and we instantly planned to explore it the next day. But Split, the largest city on the Croatian coas, looked like a modern industrial city near the sea. Our excitement ebbed a bit, until we arrived near the old city.

KarenWoo

Really enjoying your trip report and photos! You were smart to spend several days on Korcula. I think that is the best way to visit a place if one has the time, rather than doing a daytrip. We loved our day trip to Hvar but would have loved to spend a couple nights there but we just didn't have the time.

I can't imagine climbing back down that ladder at the Tower Bar after having a couple of drinks!

whitehall

We arrived at our home in Split for the next five nights. It had a beautiful private foyer that seemed as large as the apartment itself. But it was cheap, and well located. Parking wasn’t great, but right outside our apartment was one of the few municipal lots. When we were patient, sometimes riding a couple times around its circuit, we always got a space.

The old city fronts, with many restaurants, on a terrific esplanade that overlooks the harbor, which is full of ferries. There were lots of people in the immediate harbor area, but we found things generally uncrowded. We love gelato and were pleased to see many great choices.

We saw the year 1950 plastered all over the Split area, including railroad trestles hilltop rocks, just everywhere. Anyone who follows World Cup soccer knows that, in recent years, Croatia has impressed everyone with their country’s team (number 3 in the world last year; number 2 in the prior Cup). But the local Split Hajduk team is an even bigger deal. It’s been around since 1911, but many of their big name players were in a world championship in 1950 for an epic Yugoslav national team. And, in that year, what amounts to a fan club, the oldest “torcida” or supporter’s group In Europe, was created. The local professional soccer team plays in a world class stadium in Split.

KarenWoo

I love Split!!!! I think it's such a beautiful city with gorgeous architecture and with its location on the Adriatic. And it's so interesting that the old city was interwoven through Diocletian's Palace. We had a private guided tour of Old Town and Diocletian's Palace with Maja Benzon who is recommended by Rick Steves. She is a native of Split and knows so much about the city and especially the Palace. We spent 4 nights in Split, and it was a good base for visiting Hvar Town and Trogir.

whitehall

A great base. So many neat spots not too far away. Hvar, Brac, Trogir, all great. And our extra time allowed for Zadar and Makarska. And, the Palace such a special night spot!

Adelaidean

Great mix of photos, I do enjoy checking in on how your trip progressed.

whitehall

Diocletian, an ambitious soldier became the Roman Emperor in the late 200’s AD. He was born in Croatia. Some say he was the father of modern bureaucracy; others point to all the Christians persecuted during his reign. At any rate, he abdicated after 21 years of rule, built a magnificent palace in Split and had more than 10 years of very comfortable retirement.

Today, his palace is the centerpiece of the old city. The fortress actually takes up about one half of the old city and parts of it house homes, businesses and restaurants..

The cellars host a large marketplace, but, at night, Peristyle Square is the place to be. The large open court was the place for the important Roman guests to gather. There is a bar, music, and cushions provided to sit along the stone colonnade. Great place to hang out and people watch.

whitehall

We arrived as the first guests in the morning at Fortress Klis, that castle we spotted on our way into town the day before. One of our sons recognized the place as soon as we sent a photograph. It was a regular castle in Game of Thrones. We thought it ironic that, in Dubrovnik, thousands of tourists each day jockey for selfie positions in front of and on the famous Game of Thrones staircase there. And, here we had this also famous fortress all to ourselves.

The sprawling ancient fortress goes back to the 800’s, but most of it was rebuilt by the Venetians in the 1600’s; and it remains in great shape. In fact, stone workers were busily working with rock repairs while we were there.

There are several nods to its new found notoriety with photos from the TV series and what looked like props from the show. A fun place with magnificent views of Split and the sea in the distance.

whitehall

If you want to get away from the busier Croatian destinations in Dubrovnik and Split, Zadar is a good choice. From Split, by car, it was only about 100 minutes north.

Parking was not the easiest, although we found a large parking garage in a city that has a lot of modern buildings just outside the old town.

Museums ranged from exhibitions of live spiders and scorpions to Picasso.

We didn’t stay for the sunset that Alfred Hitchcock once marveled about, but we did see and listen to the famous “sea organ”, whose underwater pipes play sounds from the ebb and flow of the water.

We got our best views of the town and sea from the bell tower of St. Anastasia’s Cathedral. Between there and the sea, there is the ancient Roman forum, where columns and statues still litter the area with these ruins from a 6th century earthquake that leveled the city.

It was a nice little city for a quiet lunch, in our case, a good pizza and gelato. We noticed a cowboy and an indian, each carrying rifles for some type of photo shoot. But the most interesting group we saw, appeared to be doing travel a whole new way, sitting down on the stoop of an old church, with virtual reality headsets.

whitehall

We talked about stopping at Skradin, a 2,000 year old hamlet that is considered the gateway to Krka National Park, but there just was not enough time. We got a glimpse of Skradin when we passed over a bridge on the super-highway E65 on the way to Zadar. And, Krka National Park, and its magnificent waterfalls, is often on top of a list of destinations for this part of Croatia. We just didn’t have an extra day. But, for some, it might have been a better destination than Zadar.

On the way back to Split, we decided to pull off at a rest area, and it turned out to be on the opposite side of the bridge where we spotted Skradin. The rest area had lots of signage about this area, and even had a path that took you under the highway bridge to the other side where there were excellent views of beautiful Skradin. Nice paths, landscaping and a statue dedicated to “Our Lady of the Road.” On the side where we pulled off, there also were great views of the Channel of St. Anthony and beyond to Prokljan Lake, the second largest lake in Croatia. Best highway pull-off ever.And, more places to explore on our next visit to Croatia.

whitehall

Trogir is another seafront beauty that is also more than 2,000 years old, with plenty of Medieval flavor. And, it also has been in Game of Thrones. Although connected by a small bridge, it is an island, maybe 30 minutes from much larger Split. As small as it seems, it does have the airport that serves Split. Our visit was brief, probably too brief, since the restaurants looked inviting.

Several fancy yachts were docked along the long promenade, which was best viewed from atop Kamerlengo Castle, the second most prominent building after a lavishly decorated cathedral.

We did eavesdrop on one yacht, whose crew were dressed in Nehru style jackets, reminiscent of a James Bond movie. We watched while, what appeared to be a nanny and some children, disembarked to take a walk, while crew members stood forward with binoculars keeping an eye on them. Sounded like they were speaking Russian, and we quickly created a mental scenario where this was an oligarchs family hiding out from sanctions.

Evening came quickly, and we headed back to Split to see what was happening at Diocletian's Palace.



Spli in distance