texasbookworm

In mid-June I “took” 8 others from the school where I teach on an EFEducational Tour in England. We were there and back again too quickly, but what a great adventure it was for us all, whether as a first little taste of international travel or as a trip to places not seen before or as a return visit to sights and sites much-loved. “The world is a book, and those who do not travel read only a page,” said St. Augustine, while Francis Bacon, Sr., thought that “Travel, in the younger sort, is a part of education; in the elder, a part of experience.” I had these quotes in mind as I facilitated the choice of a tour group, informed and prepared the students before going, and planned how to use the free time we would have.

Bit of Background: In 2005 I had my first taste of England, traveling as a parent with my daughter on an EF tour. We had a great time, and the experience gave me the confidence to plan two subsequent trips of 2 weeks each to the UK (with hubby in 2008 and with him and daughter in 2010). As many (most?) forum posters here, I prefer the do-it-yourself trips. BUT as a high school English teacher at a very small private school, I decided a couple years ago to promote an overseas trip for a small group, and I didn’t feel comfortable trying to make all the arrangements needed (I can be a local guide but I don’t want to be a tour director!!!). So after a bit of discussion and research, I decided we’d go with EF. Price is definitely a factor for the population from which I’d be recruiting, plus I had been happy with EF from personal experience. I began recruiting tour-ees in January of 2010 for our June 2011 trip, chose an itinerary that gave us a few days in London as well as a quick loop to some other sites, and helped with all the logistics and travel-education over the next months.

Disclaimer here: This trip report will be… a report about our trip. This is not an advertisement for EF (HOWEVER, I was exceptionally pleased with every staff member I dealt with on every level, enjoyed the trip, and am planning to try to go again with them in 2013—and all my group returned home ready to travel with them again, so…). Nor is it a recommendation for taking a tour at all. For me, a tour is confining—but this wasn’t about me, it was about orchestrating an experience for the people on the group, a chance to travel which otherwise they wouldn’t be able to either afford or make happen alone. Student tours have certain characteristics (drawbacks?) which are just givens; I knew those going in and so cannot complain about them (e.g., the rush, the having to stay with the group, the lack of choice about most meals). Nor is this an explanation about how to be a group leader or tour leader; I may share some tips for travelers in general, but it is not my main purpose here to give advice on how to manage groups large or small.

Our group: The Warriors (our school mascot) ended up being 6 students (4 girls [E, SG, SC, and T] and 2 guys [T and M]), T’s mom (ST), our secondary principal who is very young (B) and me. All but one of the kids had just graduated from high school. All are great trustworthy kids, 2 of whom had traveled a little bit overseas; it was the first overseas trip for the other two adults who were wonderfully enthusiastic and pleasant companions.

A little bit about the tour itself: EF combines groups if necessary to fill up a bus; we traveled with two other groups, one about our size from Missouri and a group of about 20 from Texas. We were then all led by a tour director and occasionally guided by local guide. The itinerary was this: leave the U.S. on a Tuesday and arrive in London Wednesday by noon and see a bit of London; have a whole day in London on Thursday, half of which would be “free”; Friday would be bus trip to Winchester and Stonehenge, with the hotel being near Newport, Wales; Saturday off by bus to Cheddar, Wells, and Glastonbury and back to Newport hotel; Sunday, bus to Bath and Stratford, with a stay in Rugby; Monday ride to Oxford and on into London; Tuesday would be in London, again with free time and attending a play; Wednesday, off to Brighton for a day trip; return flights on Thursday. Busy but not ridiculous. There would be some free time as well as directed tours; I had definite destinations not on the EF tour to take my Warriors to in London and Oxford. In London during this free time I kept my nine together; in other places, sometimes we were together and sometimes we scattered with clear instructions about where and when to meet. Breakfast and dinners were included in the tour, but we would be finding our own lunches and snacks each day.

Days 0 and 1: Travel and Arrival in London
We had basically un-remarkable flights—4:30 pm flight to Dallas, 7:40 flight to LHR arriving at 10:45 am. Nobody but SG (who had taken cold meds) slept much, but we were all rather cheerful and full of adrenaline. Despite having to wait on M, who had been in the back of the plane alone, before approaching the passport control line together (not as a group, just with me leading them, although it’s really well-signed; I was just being protective mommy/leader!), we encountered a not-bad queue. We were through with that, had our bags, found our first of many loos, and sailed through customs by 11:40! Might be a record—is a personal best!

Our Tour Director (a highly efficient, professional, personable, and pleasant young lady to be referred to rather impersonally here as C, to protect her privacy) was waiting amidst all sorts of greeters and drivers with signs and such, she with her EF one, although I recognized her from pictures we’d swapped via email before I saw her sign. With such a tour, the groups most likely arrive on different flights and some have to wait; there were 4 flights to be met at different terminals, so C had recruited other staff to meet arriving groups and wasn’t sure if she’d be there for us, but she was. We were the last to arrive, so we all scurried to find lunch (I directed them to the M&S for that take-away experience) and ATM (where T encountered a problem which didn’t get fixed for 2 days, but I had planned for that contingency and funded her for a while). (Her problem was her card, which was new, was tied to savings not checking and her mom had to get the home bank to switch it—I think.)

We were escorted to a bus which took us on about an hour ride to…Enfield. To the Premier Inn. Not exactly center of London. I had been given all the hotel information several weeks prior to the trip except for this one which wasn’t decided until about a week before we left. I was not pleased with this location but knew that some problem must have arisen and there was nothing to do but…be flexible, which is what I kept telling the kids (but I didn’t always model that behavior!) What had happened was (I learned the whole story a piece at a time along the tour as C also learned more), EF had had to cancel with some other hotel rather at the last minute because of issues with that hotel not meeting standards, so there they were at the last minute scrambling to find affordable accommodations for almost 40 people in the configurations of rooms that had been requested. Like I said, I don’t want to be a Tour Director! I did fume some and complained in writing to the EF office, as being way out took away several hours of free time in London, but I am sure it couldn’t have been helped and the EF staff did a good job in minimizing the problem. This Premier Inn was just fine—roomy and comfortable with AC and lifts (things I’d warned my kids NOT to expect!) and very nice staff. It was just far, far away!

We dropped all our bags in a big room, with check-in to happen upon return. C briefly gave an overview of the transportation plan, including some very clear “how to use the Tube and read the Tube map” instruction and distribution of our paper train-and-tube tickets, and then we headed out like a long line of ducks on the about a mile walk to Enfield Lock train station. One silver lining about staying out so far, since this is an EDUCATIONAL tour, is that the experience of catching a train at a little non-descript suburb station was a new one for my crew from a city with has nothing for public transport but buses, which none of us ride! Anyway, off we trotted to the platform where our train came in a very few minutes. At Tottenham Hale we changed to the Tube and rode to Embankment. It was rather warm and people were tired!

We spent a few minutes on the Jubilee Bridge which affords a lovely first view of the city. Ah, the Thames—we are really in London! I love being on the different bridges. A short shower had just ended while we were underground and all the surfaces were gleaming—the rails on the bridge, the cobblestones, the Tube signs, and steps up to the bridge. The area was crowded, of course. The photo-taking began in earnest now.

Next we walked up Strand to Trafalgar Square. Ah, the sun came out. She gave us 20 short minutes to take pictures. We scurried around—lions and fountains and plinths, oh my! Definitely beginning to feel we are in London: being on the Thames, seeing the bridges, a brisk walk on crowded sidewalks with the stone edifices above and the shop fronts below, Trafalgar Square—yep, must be London!

Then we walked to Covent Garden with almost an hour to meander. B and I stuck together mostly. First C showed me how to get to the corner of Drury Lane and Great Queen Street to see the MI-5/Spooks location (really the Free Mason’s Hall) they use for the entrance shots. That was a short photo op quest and fun! Back at the Covent Garden area we wandered around. It rained again a bit; we were in the Jubilee Market which is mostly covered so no biggy. We stood and listened to a great dancing string quintet playing “Spring” in the same area I’d heard musicians performing Pachabel’s “Canon in D” the first time I was here. I splurged on a hand-knit top, purchased from the creator herself.

Next stop: Fleet Street and Ye Olde Cock Tavern pub where we ate upstairs. Kids, although tired out, got a kick out of being in a pub. Food was fine—chicken pasty/pie, chips, and peas—cream puffs for desert. Afterwards, (too tired to do anything tonight) we walked to the Tube and rode to Liverpool Street Station. It was about 6:45 so still very crowded everywhere. This station is not as pretty as St. Pancras but it is huge and busy and cool-looking with glass and girders and a big board with train and platform info and lots of shops on two levels. Most if not all of the group had never been in a big train station before, so they enjoyed looking around; it was like being in some movie set, some said! We had just missed a train, so we had to wait about 25 minutes for the 7:15 one. About a 25 minute ride and then the 15 minute walk, and then we got all checked in and then we all crashed!

bilboburgler

tt

surfmom

looking forward to more!

scotlib

Waiting for more, texasbookworm

texasbookworm

(Thanks for reading--there is a lot more!)

Day 2: London

A showery day which showed promise of clearing some later began with a full continental breakfast about 8:30. We were to be taken by bus to London and have a riding tour with a Blue Badge guide. (My plan involved doing this with group, but then in the afternoon most of the people in the other groups were going on an optional excursion to Windsor, but I was going to lead the Warriors to Westminster Abbey and then on to St. Paul’s for 5 pm evensong.)

At 9:30 there was no bus; C began phoning and discovered the bus company had “lost” the reservation and confirmation she had a copy of! Time to be flexible and re-group. Justin the guide was already here at the hotel. So he and Clare decide to swap this day’s plan with next Tuesday’s plan, when we were to go to the Tower, so we headed to public transport to get to the Tower. (Time for me to be flexible, too: ok, new plan would be for the Warriors to also swap what I had planned for next Tuesday; after the Tower we would then go to the British Library and Museum and still try to make it to St. Paul’s. Sounded a bit crazy. Might not happen.)

The train to Liverpool Street was not crowded and took us about 30 minutes. We caught the still-crowded Tube to Tower Hill. He then gave us a short tour of this area and then on into the Tower about 11 am where he took us on a tour til about 12:15 (ending at the Crown Jewels which had a line but not out the door---went pretty fast). Then we had til 1:30 I think to look around, eat and shop. Most of my group went fast through the White Tower. The kids also went to the torture chamber. We didn’t make it, regretfully, up to the walls.

Time for lunch—SG and E and I had Subways from near gift shop; the rest got stuff from Paul’s cart. After I ate I spent the rest of our lunch time visiting with those by the river and enjoying the Thames-side---still just about my favorite spot. Not enough time for enough pictures! But it was great fun anyway. The weather was often cloudy and we had even had a shower or two while touring with Justin. But the afternoon improved and got pleasant, near 70 I guess.

The other two groups had discussed going to Westminster Abbey on their own next Tuesday, but now Justin said since he was available to do a tour, he’d take them today. So since he was going, we switched plans AGAIN and decide to go with them instead of to the BM. Onward! To the Tube! On which he and Clare figured out the group was now too big for Justin to take in as a group. So our 9 plus Clare would have to enter separately and not “officially” be part of his group. We wouldn’t get the group discount. That was ok; all along we were going to go by ourselves and weren’t expecting a discount. So the plan was to go in and meet them at the nave, just sorta hang around with them but also have audio guides. The attendant gave the kids the student discount.

Into the Abbey. It will always amaze me with its grand size and history. We started out listening with the audio guides; we didn’t get very far when Justin caught us up. All the kids from the other two groups had to find the loos, and we’d “lost” M from our group, but after several minutes we all met back up and began following Justin. Around we went. I couldn’t hear much, but as it was my 3rd trip that was ok. B said she used the audio guide as well as listening to Justin and enjoyed both. We never were approached for being too large a group. This trip it was in a way poignant to me to be retracing the Wedding steps. The Abbey is definitely in my top 5 things to see in London.

We got done about 4:10 and some dashed to the shop and we made sure to get a picture with Justin who had been a marvelous guide. He and C assured me that we could probably make it to Evensong, so before 4:30 I set off with the 8 in tow—our first power walking, questing experience. Will we make it to St. Paul’s before 5?? Off we dashed. We took the very crowded Tube to Mansion House. From there it was about a 5 minute quick walk to St. Paul’s. Got in before 5!

There’s a section for people not planning to participate or stay for the whole service, so we sat there. Our seats were not directly under the dome or near the choir, but still they could see the interior. It is also always amazing! Some of them noted how it is lighter than the Abbey. Evensong was lovely, not spectacular but nice as the few voices and a bit of organ filled up the huge space. It was special, too, to hear the apostles’ creed and prayers offered up with us there, words and faith being shared for centuries. Our school is non-denominational and our group all from generally non-liturgical churches, but there is a strong emphasis in our curriculum on church history and the common creeds shared by fellow believers, so I was glad for us to have shared this. I felt it was appropriate to leave at 5:30, before it ended, as people were coming and going all the time from this section. (I had fretted about this; I did not want to be interruptive if we needed to leave early, nor did I want to not meet back up with the group for dinner if I could avoid that. Nowhere had I read about this seating option, so I was really glad to find such.)

We walked through Pater Noster Square to St. Paul’s Tube this time and rode the even more crowded Tube to Piccadilly Circus and found C with all the rest of the groups at the base of the not-Eros-and-not-Cupid-but-actually-Charity statue. We took a few pictures of the craziness and then off to a nearby Indian food restaurant, Chowki. It was really good.

Then we Warriors went off by ourselves; I thought the girls might like to wander in and out of stores on Regent and Oxford Streets. The streets, sidewalks, and stores were very crowded. We quickly went in and out several stores—H&M, Zara, Ferrari. Also a couple souvenir shops. They were all too tired to shop I think. I had sorta wanted to go all the way to Selfridges, to show them a fancy department store (it was too late for Hatchards books), but they were flagging—knackered, even!

So about 8:15 we headed back to the still jam-packed Tube and rode to Tottenham Hale. There we went upstairs to the rail station, which is again just a kinda ugly platform with a few signs. I think we could have caught the soon-arriving 8:40, but really not sure in my quick read of the board and a gentleman said he didn’t think it stopped at Enfield Lock. It’s not well-signed for Yankee train-novices! Anyway, we waited for 8:55. It was a short ride. On our walk back we stopped at a little corner store for some stamps; we didn’t find postcard stamps for some of us but we did find Magnum ice creams! (Which joyfully but calorifically have just appeared at my grocery store!!)

Back in the room with my roommate B I tried to help figure out phone, ATM and adaptor problems for everyone (got most of that straightened out; glad I brought extra UK adaptors because, rather uncharacteristically of this group, they didn’t remember what I had shown them and had ended up with European adaptors sold them by “experts” in stores.) Then to bed; maybe not to sleep, but my feet were resting if my brain wouldn’t shut off. Our time in London is done for a while.

Day 3: Winchester and Stonehenge

After another good breakfast we met in the lobby by 8:30 for the bus which was a little late but we are all loaded by 9 and off we went to Winchester. We got there via mostly major motorway.

We arrived about 11 and walked to the Cathedral where C oriented us and said we had til 1:40 to explore Winchester. We all split up; I told my Warriors to meet at the cathedral entrance at noon. It is a lovely cathedral. Most memorable thing for me is, of course, Jane Austen’s grave which is in the floor and there is a plaque on the wall beneath a pretty window. Thank you, Miss Austen, for your fine work and words and all the joy you’ve given us. It has beautiful ceilings and vaulting and some really old floor tiles. We didn’t have time to see the old Bible there.

Many old kings are “buried” there. Their remains are in boxes set up high. I asked a docent passing which contained Canute and he pointed, “That one and that one and that one…” Ha. They had fallen off sometime and broken open and so all the remains got all mixed up. Also in “the war” (the Civil War?) they were broken open and the bones used to break the windows. The window glass now is lovely. We spent a few minutes in the little gift area. I found a St. Swithun’s card—C had mentioned that she was born on St. Swithun’s day and as there is a shrine to him here, this was a special place to her. So I put the card aside for our thank you note later.

We met up outside and set off to High Street for lunch. There is a "typical" but novel to kids pedestrian area and today it had a fresh market in the middle. A fantastic experience for the kids. B fell in love and wants to move to Winchester! A quartet was playing Celtic-sorta music on a corner. The sun came out and played with the clouds. Very nice. Okay, it was actually brilliant! ("Brilliant" is my new favorite British adjective!)

We all got various foods. I got fresh strawberries to share, ate half a scone, had an apple, and got a McDonald’s coke. I dropped a £20 note; I realized it in a few seconds and turned around and saw it on the ground, but this big burly guy swooped down and picked it up. I said oh that is mine and he snarled I don’t think so and kept going. Oh, well, my mistake. Only money any of us actually lost I think.

After lunch we walked UP High Street through the old Westgate to the Great Hall, a fine remnant of the old castle, where “the Round Table” hangs on the wall. It is huge! The Hall is remarkable, with the Table and stained glass kings on one end and a huge elaborate royal family tree/lineage diagram on the whole other end. We spent about 30 minutes. Back down high street where T and I went into a tea shop and I found my first pretty “tea tidy.” We were back at the Tourist Information office on time; we’ve been good so far about that. Actually the whole trip all the groups and kids were on time I’d say 95% of the time and not very late when late. A good group of groups.

We got on the bus to Stonehenge next for about an hour through nice countryside and lots of traffic. We were there from 3-4. I had some great light for a few minutes playing on the stones and exposing the various textures. I hope at least a few of the 1000’s of pics I’m taking come out great! I am feeling rushed often, but I keep reminding myself that this trip isn’t for me, it’s for the kids. I didn’t linger much or use the audio because, while I love it here and am still awed on this my third trip, I’ve “been-here-done-this” and sorta stayed out of the way. There were plenty of people but it wasn’t packed. My Warriors all thought this was way cooler than they thought it might be. They’d been warned to be under-whelmed but did not feel that way at all. We left promptly at 4.

We had quite a drive to next hotel near Newport, Wales (!), so C put on a movie, as the bus was equipped with 2 tv screens and adequate audio. She brought 5 or 6 movies with English locations to watch on longer rides. We watched “Goodnight, Mr. Tom.” I didn’t pay attention to the credits, but when I looked up, I thought, “That’s Morse! Or, John Thaw!” So I texted my husband to google it for me to confirm. It’s a story about a boy evacuated from London during the Blitz. Based on book by one of C’s fave authors--Magorian. Worth a look (spoiler—I HATE totally sad endings especially where kids are involved, but I ended up liking this movie, so…)

There was massive traffic; we were actually stuck IN Bath for almost an hour crawling around; we did have some unexpected views of the Georgian city and its hillsides. Then we had a 12 lane, long queue at the toll bridge over the Severn into Wales. It was cool to cross this big bridge and begin to see the pretty green hills and the bilingual signs start! Got to hotel, a newish Holiday Inn Express with lifts and big lobby and nice rooms, about 6:45 and had dinner at 7:15. They don’t have a “proper” restaurant here and brought in the food—bangers, chips and beans. Kids were a little disappointed but it was edible. This actually ended up being the least satisfactory of all our meals. Back in the room for recharging—my batteries, my phone and myself! I think this is rather a far-off hotel, but it does give kids chance to say they’ve been in Wales! Tomorrow--Caves, Cathedral, and a Climb!

irishface

I am enjoying your report, but feel exhausted just reading about what each day entails. You were great to do such preplanning to make the best of "free" time. Please keep going!

irishface

I am enjoying your report, but feel exhausted just reading about what each day entails. You were great to do such preplanning to make the best of "free" time. Please keep going!

scotlib

I feel tired, too, reading this, but as you write, it was for the kids, or I'm just out of shape ;-) Any saying they plan to return?

Do you have Netflix, texasbookworm? I just watched 2 seasons of a series called Monarchy, hosted by Dr. David Starkey: http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0431550/

I'll have to get the DVDs for more than seasons 1 and 2, or just wait until more episodes are put on streaming. The series is helping me connect things I have seen/heard/read up to now into more of a continuous timeline.

texasbookworm

Yes, scotlib, we have Netflix and will check Monarchy out. Thanks.

Yes, this was not slow-travel! That's one thing about student tours, I think, you have to know going in--the pace will be fast, and sometimes the transport times will be lengthy. But the trade-off in having all the logistical stuff done is worth it; plus you just have to go into it with the mindset of just-getting-a-first-probably-brief-look and set expectations that way. I think such tours can really give people confidence for further travel; that's what happened with me.

And yes, all the Warriors, even when Weary, said they want to return! So I didn't crush their travel spirit--yay!

Ok, next 2 days soon.

scotlib

<i>I think such tours can really give people confidence for further travel; that's what happened with me.</i>

ditto!

jent103

Loving this report, texasbookworm! Can't wait for more.

twk

Enjoying your report, as always.

texasbookworm

Thanks for encouragement! It always helps to know somebody is "listening"!

(Forgot to say above that Winchester was the one place on this tour that I had not been to before, so that was a special time for me personally. It is a lovely city [I know that it’s not a town because it has a cathedral—factoid from this trip that I retained] to which I would enjoy returning.)

Day 4—Cheddar, Wells, and Glastonbury

I couldn’t believe my eyes--blue sky as I looked out at 6:30; probably had been since sunup and light around 4:30ish! Wow. Imagine—clear sunny day in Wales! My husband won’t believe it. It was a beautiful morning and promised to stay that way. (Hubby and I LOVED our brief times in Wales and it is first on our “hope to return to” list, but we definitely never saw such beautiful skies before.)

We met in the lobby at 8:15 and left soon. We took about a 75 minute ride, back over the Severn into England, to Cheddar, where we parked before 10 and C said we had til 12:15.

After a trip to the gift shop (I found a tea tidy) we first headed to some of the caves, those that have housed the aging cheese given the town’s name. I’m not that into caves; we saw Cheddar Man (well, a replica) which ST had been interested in so that’s cool. B and I spent maybe 30 minutes and then we walked outside and down the hill to Cheddar Cheese Factory, the only place in Cheddar to make cheese there, and tasted and bought cheese, some Stilton and some cage-aged Cheddar, and some crackers to share with group later. Yummy with capital Y! B said she’d always had a dream about having a dairy/cheese making farm someday, so we spent a little and took a brief look into their cheese-making plant. We wandered back up the hill and in some shops.

We met some of “our” kids who said I really needed to climb up to the top of Jacob’s Ladder for the view. They know me and my camera! It was a pretty day. So I did. Quite a climb up steep steps. Then on top up a sort of fire-tower thing. Cool views. I could see the Gorge and over into Wales toward Cardiff and even the Tor, our next stop! I am really glad they talked me into this; I’d been to Cheddar before but not up here. C arrived on top as I came down so we walked back to the meeting place. B and I shared cheese and crackers with E and T and rested a minute, with a Pepsi, too—with ice!. Cheddar is a great little stop, with the pretty gorge, caves for those interested, hills to climb, picturesque shops---oh and great Cheddar, too!

Then it was on the bus to Wells, where we alit the bus by 1 and had til 3. There was another nice market on the street right outside the cathedral, so the boys, ST, B and I got food there first. I found couscous, veggie samosas, an apple, and a brownie—yummy all! We ate on the Cathedral grounds. The girls wanted a sit-down lunch, so they looked into the cathedral first and then found a pub to eat in. (Forgot to tell them to order at the bar, and I think they sat for a while before figuring it out! Learn best from experience anyway. They had a blast.)

After our picnic lunch, we went into the cathedral until 2:30. It is spectacular with scissor arches, lovely fan vaults, and stone steps worn from centuries of passing feet. I think this may be the prettiest interior of all the cathedrals I’ve been in. Not biggest or tallest, but the gracefulness of the arches and the light and color of the stonework are just beautiful to me. Then back through town—few shops, souvenir or two, more pics—to bus.

On to Glastonbury by 3:30 where we had til 5:30. C gave us a map to the top of the Tor if we wanted to go. We all looked around the Abbey ruins til 4:15. These grounds and ruins are so lovely. The grave of “Arthur” is an …interesting stop, too! Then we spent some time shopping. I found a lovely cross Christmas ornament. It began to spit a little drizzle.

At 4:30 we Warriors met up and began the walk to the Tor which sounded like would take an hour, about 3 miles round trip. BUT , be warned—It is much steeper than we all thought. And it was Druid Solstice or something and they were everywhere with their capes and robes and staffs and such. Anyway, we all (there were others from our tour, too) trudged away, up hills and through a cow field and up lots of steps, finally arriving breathless at the top about 5. We spent maybe 10 minutes looking at the amazing views (and not going into the tower—the Druids said we were westerners so not permitted--?) and then headed with our wobbly legs back down along with lines of druids trodding single-file the narrow walkway. The kids got ahead. We three…more mature ladies were a bit slower down the steps, back by the cows, through the nature area, into town. We were obviously going to be late. About 10 minutes away, about 5:30, I called C who answered, “Don’t worry, we won’t leave you!” We were the last ones but not far behind a few others and we still left by 5:45.

We got back to the hotel a bit after 7; no major traffic jams this day. Dinner was at 8; salad and pasta, again catered in. Then a much needed leg-rest! A lot of elevation-change walking today, and we south-Texas flatlanders aren’t used to all “them thar hills”!

Day 5—Bath and Stratford

This was our only rainy day. It was never a downpour but it was wet. In fact, when I asked the kids at the end of the trip what was one negative memory, 2 or 3 said the wet feet in Bath! We left Wales in the rain and got to Bath earlier than expected, by 9:30. The guide agreed to come early, so as we waited a couple minutes, a few of us made a quick jaunt from the bus parked near the Cathedral to take pics at Pultney Bridge of Jane Austen fame.

Then we went on a quick bus tour of Bath with a local guide,Felicity, just looking at stuff through a raindrop-coated bus window. Atmospheric even if I don’t remember specifics! We stopped at the Royal Crescent for pictures where she said John Cleese just bought an upper story unit because he couldn’t afford first floor, and she pointed out one of the last hanging loos of Bath (they’d construct new facilities on the outside because floor space inside so precious). Bath is beautiful, even in the rain, but I don’t remember exactly what else we saw in our twisting and turning.

Then on to the Abbey and Baths area and into the Roman Baths. They are way cool, but I just sailed through and took a few drippy pictures. It was rather crowded and I’d been here before, so I didn’t spend much time reading or listening to the audio guide, which is quite good. I just wandered and enjoyed people watching, too.

We Warriors met up, not by design, at a Cornish pastry shop right around the corner from the exit where I got a “traditional”; it was hot and delicious. Then B and I went shopping in cute little shops near there. I found a mug, a pretty scarf, and a tee shirt with “Keep calm and carry on” on it, which the kids insisted I get because I’d been wearing a button with that on it (Imperial War Museum momento)sometimes during the school year. Fun, even in the rain.

We were back on the bus by 12:30 and on to Stratford area still in the rain. We were at Anne’s house by 2:30. We had a tour but it was unfortunately too wet for the lovely garden areas much; might have been there 45 minutes; wanted more time in shop! I couldn’t hear the guide, so I just stayed in the back of the group (and I confess I took a few surreptitious un-allowed photos). A great house for kids to experience in person.

Next stop was in Stratford at Shakespeare’s birthplace. (OK, I also confess that I’m reading some works that cast doubt on the authenticity of “Shakespeare” as the author of all those works, one by Beauclerk and one by Sobran—not completely convinced but willing to entertain their hypothesis; in some ways it doesn’t matter—“the play’s the thing”!) We spent about 45 minutes.

From the gift shop I saw the Truffles chocolate shop across the way; I remember getting some of the best truffles I’ve ever had there and told fellow chocolate-lover SG that we’d go there in a minute. About 5 minutes later she came back about 4:31 and said they’d closed! I suggested she go beg, so she did and the lady opened back up. Having been a rainy Sunday, she closed early, before 5. So she was kind to let us in; I bought a box of about 20 truffles to share. YUMMY. Then I went back over to the Shakespeare shop for some books.

Afterwards B and SG and I walked up the street in and out of the rain in and out of the few open shops. A rainy Sunday evening in Stratford is not a lively place to be. My 9 all met at the jester statue as requested for a pic at 5:10 and boarded the bus right around the corner in a minute. Some adult was late, but we left by 5:30 and drove to the Ibis Hotel in Rugby by 6:45.

Dinner was a bit after 7 and was good and plentiful with chicken and different veggies. Back up in the room I shared the truffles with the Warriors. A rest was in order and I also tried to figure out how to pack stuff (I’m buying too many bulky mugs!) and worked on Shakespeare pun book that has rebuses of his plays, lines, characters and such—we can’t figure all of them out and there aren’t answers! Fun though.

sassy_cat

texasbookworm, I love your report and you've conveyed the teens excitement very well.
A sunny day in Wales is a lovely thing!

surfmom

wow! I am tired reading it, but I agree that a tour likes this is designed to wet the appetite as well as provide confidence for kids (and adults) to come back on their own and do it again. My first time to Europe was on a "if its Tuesday, it must be Paris" tour with my parents. They hated the idea of making decisions and finding hotels and dealing with the stress of traveling. For them, being told where and when to get on the bus was great, so I get it!

The upside to moving between cities during the day is that you get lots of little 'mini-breaks'! A chance to recover, have a little down-time and then hit the pavement hard again.

Keep it coming...We're reading...

Nikki

"lions and fountains and plinths, oh my!"

Really enjoying your style.

indy_dad

enjoying the report -- thanks

flanneruk

"I know that it’s not a town because it has a cathedral—factoid from this trip that I retained"

As you say, a factoid. Beware of tourist guides bearing hokey explanations.

There are a number of towns in England that have been declared Cities, but don't have an Anglican Cathedral. And a number of towns with an Anglican Cathedral but without City status. Between the Reformation and 1888, city status and possession of an Anglican Cathedral were related: they aren't any more, and when Winchester Cathedral was built, the modern status of city simply didn't exist. Westminster ceased to have an Anglican cathedral in 1550, but was still called a City in common parlance until 1900, when an Act was passed legitimising its title

Winchester's status is exceptionally odd. Though it's been known as a City "since time immemorial", the title wasn't actually officially confirmed in writing till 1974.

Siince 1888, the title is conferred on towns as an honorific - regardless of whether it's got a cathedral, and if it has which denomination owns it

texasbookworm

As always, thanks for linguistic clarification, flanneruk. So do towns-people get offended if ignorant Yanks call their home a city, or do city-dwellers bristle at being said to live in a town, or does it matter? I mean this sincerely, as I do believe in the accurate use of language, and there are nuances and meanings that differ on either side of the pond, as it were. There doesn't seem to be, from your explanation, an exact set of requirements for municipal nomenclature--or maybe there is officially? I like to call a ...city a city. A town by any other name would... Getting silly.

(I have learned to look forward to your responses to my scribblings--I usually learn something, so thanks!)

texasbookworm

Day 6: Oxford

After the sparest breakfast of the trip we loaded up the bus by 8:30 and headed to Oxford! My fourth trip and I was so excited to have as much free time as we would have so I could be the “local guide” for the Warriors! With all its loveliness, literary connections, and history, Oxford holds a very very dear place in my heart and my spirit.

This was a lovely day with a few glitches. We got there around 10:30, which was earlier than I anticipated. Yay! We drove to the Ashmolean Museum area, and from there C took us on a quick maybe 30 minute walk past some of the famous icons (I made sure as we passed Blackwell’s I got somebody to take a picture of me—we’d spent a happy time there last summer but I forgot to take a pic outside!) and then to Brasenose College where she persuaded them to let us in early. It is pretty—kids got to see a quad (although some construction stuff in the way made it not as lovely as usual), some of the lovely spires and windows, and an eating hall.

About 11:15 we were “let go” at Cornmarket and High. It was busy this Monday morning but not bad at all. There’s a Pret a Manger there so I suggested we grab stuff; we were hungry early after our meager breakfast, so we got sandwiches and ate standing right outside propped up on bins (Oxford’s dearth of seats, even on this pedestrian way, struck me again—but if they put in lots of benches, people can’t walk, so….) I wanted to take them to Magdalen College (as we are all C. S. Lewis fans of one intensity or another!). I had figured we’d be in Oxford an hour or so later and so hadn’t written down exact opening times. C’s info said noon, so about 11:30 or earlier we set off on a longer way there past Christ Church College (M wanted to go in to see HP stuff but I said no time plus steep admission). Also passed Corpus Christi and Merton. Walked along path by Merton fields and up Rose Lane by Botanical Gardens. We arrived at Magdalen about 11:55. Not open til 1. Bummed. Hate to waste any time here, backtracking, but couldn’t be helped now.

So we headed back into town to go to Blackwells and then the Covered Market if time. We passed the University Church and decided to go up (not B or ST). Wow! I’m so glad I did! We (when there with husband and another time with husband and daughter) had considered it twice in the past but no time or no leg stamina, but today--further in and higher up I went! The views were amazing this day. Clouds but sun also. From here I really really could see the dreaming spires. I talked to a man dropping down a measuring tape, as he said they were about to start a renovation and had to confirm height—89 meters. He’d worked on windows in Radcliffe Camera directly opposite recently and said it was interesting to find names etched on lots of the panes there—nobody famous, though! The spiral stairs and the walkways outside were about the narrowest of any such place I’d ever been; no room for passing! Highly recommended climb if you have never done it.

Now on to Blackwells. As we walked through Bodleian Library area, ST realized she didn’t have her passport in her passport bag, so she hustled back to the church where she knew she’d had it. About 10 minutes or so later she returned to say she had had it all along but it was in a different part of her bag. Been there, done that!

We continued on to Blackwell’s Books for what was supposed to be a too quick 20 or so minute look. I did find a couple books (Goodnight, Mr. Tom and a biography on the Inklings). SG, E and the boys went looking for gum, I thought, but they also stopped for a snack and were gone longer than I thought, so we ended up not having time for even a quick stroll through the Market—because I definitely wanted to get them to Magdalen College and The Eagle and Child.

So back to Magdalen by 1:05 where we spent about 40 minutes, mostly outside and along Addison’s Walk. Very beautiful as always. It is a very special place for Lewis appreciators, which ST, B, and I, as well as most of the kids, count ourselves, to be where he and his friends walked and discussed issues of faith and life, discussions that influenced the writing that has so encouraged and impacted us. Very memorable. I wanted to linger as always. Time to head, though, as always!

E and I navigated back to St. Giles and on to The Eagle and Child pub. I didn’t go in this time, but they all took a quick look at the Rabbit Room, “home” of the Inklings. There’s a chalkboard sign this year touting the pub as such, tying itself into the memory of Tolkien and Lewis, so I guess they expect, and don’t mind, the gawkers! (Maybe anticipating Jackson’s The Hobbit I and II, December 2012 and 2013?!) We took pictures outside and got ice cream next door.

Time to meet group at the Martyrs’ Memorial (no time for Ashmo) and there all the others were. Some of us availed ourselves of the loos right there underground, too. C arrived to say the bus was broken down and the driver didn’t know when he’d be there. But he ended up arriving only a little late and off we went about 2:45.

Next it was on to Jury’s Inn at LHR. Hubby, daughter and I had spent our last night here last summer before a very early flight, so I knew it was a nice hotel although again far out of the city. But for this tour it mostly made sense; for this day, it was a fairly easy run from Oxford, and in 2 days we’d be taking a day trip to Brighton so it would be easier to go from here than from the center of London. And then we all had flights out of LHR on departure.

I remembered that we’d had quite a hike from Hatton Cross Tube station where we were dropped last summer by bus from rental car area; it turns out that we’d gone a long way and that actually Jurys Inn is much closer to the Tube than the route we’d taken; it’s only 5 minutes away, so after check in it was onto to the Tube again for the longish ride into London and off to dinner at Hummus Bros. near Holburn. Yum again; seasoned chunks of chicken nestled in flavored hummus and crisps and bread. All good.

Afterwards, all the others went back to the hotel, but I was having none of that! I directed my group to an evening walk. We got the Tube back to St. Paul’s and walked onto the Millennium Bridge. I love this view! Lots of others were enjoying the perfect evening, too. From there we walked back to the Globe area for a bit; I showed the kids the steps to the Thames bankside and they had a grand time along the river for a bit—had to drag them away.

We set off again, but NOT briskly, along the Southbank. It was a gorgeous night. We didn’t quite make it to hear Big Ben’s bongs at 9 but we were enjoying strolling rather than power walking! After crossing Westminster Bridge and admiring Parliament and Big Ben in the deepening dusk, we caught the Tube. It was a long ride back to the hotel but easier to navigate than having to include a train like at the Enfield location. We were in the rooms before 10:45.

Day 7—London

This last day in London started out with the great breakfast bar at Jury’s Inn; the most complete full English breakfast bar we’ve had—eggs, bacon, potatoes, grilled tomatoes, beans, breads, yogurt, fruit, cereals, drinks (everything but mushrooms!). The rooms are nice; ours looks out over an incongruous little farm-like property with donkeys, geese, horse, and cats! Fun to look at as the planes fly very very near and very very low; we are definitely right next to landing flight path and about every minute a plane with wheels already down glides by level with our 5th story room. But absolutely no sound. We had noticed the sound-barrier windows before. Brilliant.

We had until 2:30 as “free” time before we met back up with the EF folks. We Warriors gathered in the lobby at 8:30, with the girls dressed up cute for the theatre tonight. The other groups were either going by bus to Windsor on an extra excursion we hadn’t paid for (supposed to be last Tuesday) or were going with C into the city later. We had travel passes which were for off peak, so we had to buy one-way single trip. I rummaged up my old Oyster cards and at the station found that 2 of them had over £5 still on them, which is what the ticket cost. So B and I used those and the rest bought their tickets. And off we went again.

This was a warm day, mostly sunny all day. We rode all the way to St. Pancras (where I’d meant to exit via the train station for a look at it, but we came out on the street—oh, well) and headed to the British Library, which was a real treat for B, ST, and a couple of the girls. T the science-guy would have liked more Newton stuff besides just the statue outside; E and SG just wanted hot chocolate out in the courtyard! Everybody saw at least a little of the Treasures room; and this time there was no one sitting on the extremely cute metal bench shaped like a book, in the lobby, so we got pictures. For English lit lovers, this Library is definitely worth at least an hour!

As we left I guided us wrong, turning left instead of right, and we walked about 10 minutes the wrong way. Oops, sorry! But we did go by Kings Cross station where I spotted Platform 9 ¾ which is right out front on the street, not actually with real train platforms (which is why my daughter and I couldn’t find it last year). So another photo op for some of the kids who are fans. At Grays Inn Road I figured out my mistake and we retraced.

I let E navigate some more and we arrived at the British Museum about 11:30. It’s always a wow when you walk in; I heard a couple kids sorta gasp as we went in the Great Room. I took a group shot at the Rosetta Stone and said, “Seeya out front at 1:30.” And so we split up and wandered our separate ways although we did often cross paths here and there. Several of them admitted later that it seemed overwhelming in its amount of… stuff! Yes; just have to keep saying, “I can’t see it all; I will come back!!” I avoided the Greek-room crowds and wandered mostly in the British area. I grabbed some lunch in the café and bought another tote bag and necklaces for my daughter and me.

After our museum experience, we headed to Tottenham Court Tube to meet the rest at Embankment; oops, no Northern line service to Embankment. Really wished sometimes, like this, I had internet access as I went, especially as checking the TFL website is a good thing to do daily, but we managed. I found a different way with one change and we still got to Embankment at 2:15 to meet C (target time was 2:20). But the bus and Jackie the guide were delayed because traffic was especially messed up because of a big fire on Strand (turned out to be the Marconi House, an old building being renovated into a hotel; the fire burned most of the day and messed up traffic majorly, but no one hurt). The kids lay down on grass in Victoria Gardens right there in the shade (while the Londoners lounged in the sun in the park!) and I went on the Jubilee Bridge for a few pics.

The bus finally got there about 3 and we slowly crawled here and there and ended up on Whitehall with Jackie pointing out this and that, but in the back of the bus I couldn’t hear her over the roar of the AC (but needed AC this day!). We parked somewhere and trotted off through St. James Park and had a 30 second (no, I think it was 5 minutes) look at Buckingham Palace. The traffic delays had curtailed this bus tour majorly.

Back on the bus and on to St. Paul’s, to which they were hoping to get before the crypt closed at 4:30. We got near and de-bussed about 4:23. As I got off, C said she’d really been hoping she could get me to the shop before it closed so I could get the “dome in the smoke of the Blitz” picture I’d mentioned I was hoping to find! I know it’s her “job,” but she was incredibly attentive to details of odd requests and random mentions of desires. So I had to dash in to see if I could find one! I found a poster and also a magnet; decided not to buy the postcard; was hoping for a framed print, like 8x10, but no. (The poster didn’t arrive in good shape; it got rather damp and mashed and bent in the next few hours and even T’s care for it in his luggage wasn’t able to undo the creases it got in it; oh, well, I have it and the creases just tell another story, my own, on top of the story the photo tells of London.) Also I found yet another mug, but I couldn’t pass this one up because it had my new favorite quote about London, one I had discovered only a few weeks before leaving: “London, thou art the flour [sic] of Cities all” from a poem by William Dunbar.

Back on the bus we discovered that all the streets to where we were going were closed because of the fire, so back off the bus and to St. Paul’s Tube and on to Oxford Circus which was the maddest Tube crowd (not angry-mad, just busy-mad) I think I’ve ever been in. What a squash! I had often been glad of the brightly colored EF backpacks which most of the kids wore ,which made our group easy to spot in crowds; they came in especially handy during this trek!

Anyway, up to Carnaby Street. I suddenly recognized where we were—at Ganton Street at The Great Frog! As we waited to go in Mother Mash, I told them I’d been told that Johnny Depp and Metallica members shopped at that gothic jewelry store, and they had a look. Soon we went into restaurant for our bangers and mash. It was okay; boys liked sausages; I enjoyed the potatoes but gave one of my links away. I think it is good for bangers and mash; they just aren’t my favorite meal.

We were having an early dinner because of seeing “Wicked” at 7 at the Apollo Victoria, and our travel back through Oxford Circus was daunting; we all did not get separated but it was wild and hairy. Glad for backpacks again. Just try to imagine keeping almost 40 people together in the rush hour Tube madness! C did wonderful job always.

We rode to Victoria Station; the theatre is directly across. “Wicked” was great, much better than I expected. I’m still not in love with the story (didn’t finish the book) but the costuming and set were great and the girls’ voices were absolutely lovely, separately but especially together. Amazing. Brilliant. After, about 10:15, Clare met us out front and off we went again, getting “home” about 11:30. Only 1 more full day!