stardust

In a stop-over to Barcelona we'd like to dip our feet in the Mediterranean. Looking for a nice coastal village not too far from the E15 (Languedoc-Rossillon region) with a budget-friendly little hotel and a good restaurant for an enjoyable evening. Any ideas greatly appreciated!

elle

We considered stopping in Sete on our way from Collioure to Montpellier, but ran into a time crunch and couldn't do it. I think it's an intriguing little port and would like to visit eventually (but can't make any first-hand reccommendations unfortunately).

ezlivin

Sete.
Stopped there for lunch when we drove to Arles from Barcelona about 5 years ago Nice, quiet French fishing town. Charming restaurants with fresh sea food(displayed on ice, a la fish market style) by the canal.

StCirq

Sète has some admirable characteristics, but no one would call it "charming." And I should think you'd want to get farther down the coast before spending the night.

I would suggest Narbonne, or the village of Bizanet 13 kms away, where the Abbé de Fontfroide is located. In Narbonne, there's a nice, reasonably priced little hotel called the Grand Hôtel de Languedoc. A good and popular restaurant is l'Olibo. For information about Bizanet, go to
http://www.bizanet.net/Malric.htm

ezlivin

Perhaps you'd be enthralled to see one of the largest French nuclear power plant looming on you just before you enter Narbonne or see fory ourself the heavily-silted harbors when you get in.

The "charm" of Sete really lies in it just being a French fishing town. Even calling itself "the Venice of Languedoc" doesn't do it for me either. However, the charm lies in walking around the sund-drenched canals, watching fishing boats, stopping to sit, sip wine and eat fresh seafood at any one of the "charming" restaurants, and if you are lucky enough (as we weren't when w were there) to catch the traditional water jousting festival where choreographed jousting takes place in the canals by men in colorful costumes on colorful boats.

StCirq

I don't think any of the coastal towns between Montpellier and Perpignan has a huge amount of charm, which is why I suggested Bizanet as well.

And I think the poster probably wants to travel a bit farther than Sète for an overnight if his/her ultimate destination is Barcelona. For that matter, if he/she wants a really charming town, Collioure would be a far better choice than either Narbonne or Sète, but it's past Perpignan.

I have actually promoted Sète on more than a few occasions. We used to go there when our kids were little because of the miles of sandy beach and great cheap seafood. And it's really the last of the true fishing villages on the Med in France. As such, it's a gritty, marine town that often smells to high heaven when the weather is hot and the breeze is blowing inland, and the quais are often noisy with boats powering in and out. I have some appreciation for Sète, but when I think of "charming" in relation to France, Sète does not come to mind.

stardust

Thanks for the replies so far. StCirq, we'll be coming from Paris so a few kilometers more or less won't make that much of a difference (we're 3 drivers). And we're really looking forward to a nice bouillabaise. Perhaps we'll stop in Bizanet as well if it's that charming. Any accomodation advice on Sete?

StCirq

Well, if the distance isn't an issue, why not head right to Collioure? It's hard to get much more charming than that.
Le Grand Hôtel is supposedly Sète's best hotel. It's right on the main quai. We used to stay at the other end of town in a small place called the Sable d'Or or something like that, but it's not charming and I wouldn't recommend it except for the cheerful owners.
But really, make the haul to Collioure and stay at the Hostellerie des Templiers or the Casa Païral.

elle

We loved Collioure, but not the Hostellerie de Templiers. The building has a lot of character and history, the location was nice, but the room and bath were merely adequate. If we had been staying more than one night, it would have bothered me. Then again, it was only 55 euros.

SalB

We stay closer to Perpignan so I won't recommend a hotel, but do make your stay at Collioure. It's the perfect place to visit . . . charming old town, castle to visit, artists by the beach, bright colored fishing boats, the occasional sailing yacht and two sandy beaches.

Highly recommend it.

elle

BTW, my husband claimed the fish stew he had in Collioure was the best he ever tasted!

cigalechanta

not inexpensive but maybe for others innterested is the Casa Pairel in the town-center. One year we stayed at a hotel on the St Cyprian plage. On our balcony we had a picnic and there happened to be a pottery fair on the beach.

StCirq

The Hostellerie des Templiers is not the place to go if you want posh rooms, but if you're interested in art, it's a winner. The owners collected "rent" from famous artists like Picasso and Matisse in lieu of payment for rooms for many years, and their collection is considerable. Unfortunately, some years ago, some of the art, which they had always displayed right on the walls of the hotel rooms, in the corridors and bathrooms, etc., was stolen, so perhaps they have put some of the more precious pieces away now.

elle

The precious pieces are gone, but there's still a lot of art on the walls and it is fun to look at. There are some other nice touches too, but luxe it is not.

Next time (and there will be a next time, we loved Collioure), we'll try Casa Pairal. We walked by it and it looked so sweet.

LaurenSKahn

I love Sete but it is probably to close to Montpellier to be your overnight stop.

When I visited my daughter at the Universite de Montpellier several years ago (junior year abroad program), we went there to eat and had a lovely meal at one of the restaurants along the docks. Ah, for a platter of that seafood right now!

I rented a Citadines apt close to the Univerisite so I cannot help with hotel recommendations.

mpprh

Hi

an interesting thread ..........

Sete is a little raffish, but interesting. Can't give any hotel advice - I either do day trips, or arrive by boat.

Collioure is a little way from the autoroute. There are several nice coastal towns within 50 km of the Spanish border.

But there is another possibility.

Bouzigues (and worth considering near neighbours Meze & Marseillan) is a small shell fishing village near to Sete on the Etang du Thau. It is a favourite eating place of Montpellierans. About 20 restaurants, along a South facing beach with Sete visible on the horizon.
Not many places to stay, but this could be a very restful stopover.

Peter
The Languedoc Page
http://tlp.netfirms.com