TRIP REPORT--Rome, Venice (Long--Part 1)
Sep 27th, 2004, 06:07 AM
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TRIP REPORT--Rome, Venice (Long--Part 1)
Well, after all the research and planning, the trip has now come and gone, and it was great. First, I'd like to thank all my fellow Fodorites for the great advice and recommendations, you certainly helped make my first trip to Italy special.
Friday 9/17--after weeks and days of nailbiting and searching for news on the Alitalia situation, the flights went off without a hitch. Our trip was 2 days after the supposed deadline, and they had been negotiating and reaching deals with the unions. I didn't cancel my back-up Delta tickets until 1/2 hour before we left for the airport, was taking no chances. Flew Alitalia business class, was very nice, new 777, lots of room. Mediocre food and service, but we were so comfortable it didn't matter.
ROME:
Arrived in Rome Saturday morning right on schedule, through immigration and got the bags no problem. Were out of the airport in less than 1/2 hour, and driver from limoservicerome was there waiting for us as planned.
Hotel--Exedra. We LOVED this hotel. Very luxurious, modern and comfortable. Arrived at about 11 am, and after a couple of minutes our room was ready. We booked a deluxe room, and it was very nice and was enourmous. Large marble bathroom, tub and separate shower, 2 sinks. Dressing area with very nice wood closet, built in drawers. A bar area was opposite. This area opened into the bedroom area. 12-15 foot ceilings made room look even bigger. King bed, with seating area, couch, chair, table and large desk. We got a good deal by booking on Orbitz well in advance. I highly recommend the hotel. Termini station only a 5 minute walk around the corner, and Metro stop right in front of hotel (which we didn't use, most places were walkable from hotel, and took cabs also). Hotel had a lovely rooftop terrace, bar and pool. Also a spa which we looked at, very nice, but did not use.
Saturday--after getting settled in, we set off, trying to stay awake. Walked to Spanish Steps (15-20 minutes). Had lunch at D'Angelo on Via del Croce near Spanish Steps. Each had a pizza (very good), shared a salad and a bottle of water, 23 Euro.
Walked around some more, got some gelato. Walked to Pantheon, Piazza Navona. Then back to hotel. Had a light dinner at place right around corner from Hotel (Cucina Nazionale), which was fine.
Sunday--walked to Trevi Fountain and looked around, then walked over to Colosseum. Had some lunch (not very good) near Colosseum because we were waiting for our tour to begin.
Took RomeWalks Colosseum/Forum/Palatine Hill tour, and it was excellent (about 3 hours). Tour guide was Antonella, she was very knowledgeable (a PhD and archeologist) and very personable. Highly recommend this tour, we saw so many things we never would have seen or noticed on our own.
Went back to hotel for a bit of a rest.
Dinner--Pizza at Pizzeria Baffetto (based on recommendations here and elsewhere). Probably the best pizza I've ever had. Very thin crust, crispy, delicious. It gets very crowded, as it is small. They do take reservations. We had the hotel call for us and make a reservation. When we got there, the line was long. We told the owner we had a reservation, and he sent someone across the street, into the store room, and he came back with a table, set it up, and we sat down right away. Each had a pizza and a dessert (awesome tartufo), and a bottle of water--about 25 Euro.
Monday--Vatican day. Got to St. Peter's square early to look around before our 9:30 Scavi tour. I was awestruck by the piazza. Scavi tour was amazing, if you can get the reservation you really should do it. Was also fun talking to and then walking past the Swiss guard.
After tour, walked around outside, got some lunch (at a very forgettable touristy place) before our 1 pm Vatican museum tour.
Took the Scala Reale Vatican tour (docent was Rebecca Alcock). Another great tour. She was extremely knowledgeable, and we learned quite a bit. Did the museums (well, some of them), Sistine Chapel, then St. Peter's Basilica. Tour was about 4 hours and again well worth it.
After that long day of tours, got some rest then had dinner at a small place on Piazza della Maddalena. It was ok, but not great. Got the name of a place from hotel, but when we got there, although it looked good, was not quite what we wanted so we just picked one of the places nearby that had some people there. Again, not bad but not great (I believe it was called Maddalena).
Walked around a bit, checking out some other restaurants for the next day, got some gelato.
Tuesday--Went to Campo di Fiore in the morning to check out the market. Got some fruit for breakfast, and some gifts. The lady selling cheese gave me a taste of some delicious parmiggiano reggiano. Walked around the neighborhood there, then back to Spanish Steps and area around our hotel to look at some stores (where my wife bought some shoes).
Lunch at L'Orso 80, based on recommendations here. Probably the best meal we had all weak. The posts here describing the antipasto are true, it was amazing, and an incredible amount of food, from cold dishes, to meatballs, prosciutto and melon, beans, frittata, WOW. Then had some pasta, and it was great.
After lunch, went to a bakery we had seen near Campo di Fiori (was on Piazza della Cancelleria) for some great cookies and pastries.
Got some rest at hotel before our 6 pm RomeWalks twilight tour. This tour was also excellent, and while we had seen everything on our own, the explanations and history made it more interesting. Started at Spanish Steps, then Trevi Fountain, Pantheon, into a gallery for some Presecco, then to Piazza Navona, then Capitoline Hill and then a night time view of the Forum (about 2 hours).
Dinner, back to Baffetto for more great pizza, then back to hotel to pack up for our trip to Venice the next morning.
Wednesday morning, walked to Termini for train to Venice. Had booked tickets on Trenitalia online for Eurostar train. Found train and our assigned car and seats no problem. We went first class (didn't look that much different than 2nd class, but the little extra room and comfort was worth it to us, and was not that much more money). Seats were comfortable.
Also, I have seen many questions about this, and just wanted to say that we had no problem fitting our 2 large (26 or 27 inch suitcases) on the racks above the seats. (Don't know if they are bigger than in 2nd class, but it looked about the same to me). Gave conductor the printout confirmation of tickets, and no problems. Train ride was uneventful and arrived just about on time.
VENICE will be in a separate post to follow.
If anyone has any questions at all, please don't hesitate to ask. I'd love to repay others for all the great help I've gotten here.
More to follow...
Friday 9/17--after weeks and days of nailbiting and searching for news on the Alitalia situation, the flights went off without a hitch. Our trip was 2 days after the supposed deadline, and they had been negotiating and reaching deals with the unions. I didn't cancel my back-up Delta tickets until 1/2 hour before we left for the airport, was taking no chances. Flew Alitalia business class, was very nice, new 777, lots of room. Mediocre food and service, but we were so comfortable it didn't matter.
ROME:
Arrived in Rome Saturday morning right on schedule, through immigration and got the bags no problem. Were out of the airport in less than 1/2 hour, and driver from limoservicerome was there waiting for us as planned.
Hotel--Exedra. We LOVED this hotel. Very luxurious, modern and comfortable. Arrived at about 11 am, and after a couple of minutes our room was ready. We booked a deluxe room, and it was very nice and was enourmous. Large marble bathroom, tub and separate shower, 2 sinks. Dressing area with very nice wood closet, built in drawers. A bar area was opposite. This area opened into the bedroom area. 12-15 foot ceilings made room look even bigger. King bed, with seating area, couch, chair, table and large desk. We got a good deal by booking on Orbitz well in advance. I highly recommend the hotel. Termini station only a 5 minute walk around the corner, and Metro stop right in front of hotel (which we didn't use, most places were walkable from hotel, and took cabs also). Hotel had a lovely rooftop terrace, bar and pool. Also a spa which we looked at, very nice, but did not use.
Saturday--after getting settled in, we set off, trying to stay awake. Walked to Spanish Steps (15-20 minutes). Had lunch at D'Angelo on Via del Croce near Spanish Steps. Each had a pizza (very good), shared a salad and a bottle of water, 23 Euro.
Walked around some more, got some gelato. Walked to Pantheon, Piazza Navona. Then back to hotel. Had a light dinner at place right around corner from Hotel (Cucina Nazionale), which was fine.
Sunday--walked to Trevi Fountain and looked around, then walked over to Colosseum. Had some lunch (not very good) near Colosseum because we were waiting for our tour to begin.
Took RomeWalks Colosseum/Forum/Palatine Hill tour, and it was excellent (about 3 hours). Tour guide was Antonella, she was very knowledgeable (a PhD and archeologist) and very personable. Highly recommend this tour, we saw so many things we never would have seen or noticed on our own.
Went back to hotel for a bit of a rest.
Dinner--Pizza at Pizzeria Baffetto (based on recommendations here and elsewhere). Probably the best pizza I've ever had. Very thin crust, crispy, delicious. It gets very crowded, as it is small. They do take reservations. We had the hotel call for us and make a reservation. When we got there, the line was long. We told the owner we had a reservation, and he sent someone across the street, into the store room, and he came back with a table, set it up, and we sat down right away. Each had a pizza and a dessert (awesome tartufo), and a bottle of water--about 25 Euro.
Monday--Vatican day. Got to St. Peter's square early to look around before our 9:30 Scavi tour. I was awestruck by the piazza. Scavi tour was amazing, if you can get the reservation you really should do it. Was also fun talking to and then walking past the Swiss guard.
After tour, walked around outside, got some lunch (at a very forgettable touristy place) before our 1 pm Vatican museum tour.
Took the Scala Reale Vatican tour (docent was Rebecca Alcock). Another great tour. She was extremely knowledgeable, and we learned quite a bit. Did the museums (well, some of them), Sistine Chapel, then St. Peter's Basilica. Tour was about 4 hours and again well worth it.
After that long day of tours, got some rest then had dinner at a small place on Piazza della Maddalena. It was ok, but not great. Got the name of a place from hotel, but when we got there, although it looked good, was not quite what we wanted so we just picked one of the places nearby that had some people there. Again, not bad but not great (I believe it was called Maddalena).
Walked around a bit, checking out some other restaurants for the next day, got some gelato.
Tuesday--Went to Campo di Fiore in the morning to check out the market. Got some fruit for breakfast, and some gifts. The lady selling cheese gave me a taste of some delicious parmiggiano reggiano. Walked around the neighborhood there, then back to Spanish Steps and area around our hotel to look at some stores (where my wife bought some shoes).
Lunch at L'Orso 80, based on recommendations here. Probably the best meal we had all weak. The posts here describing the antipasto are true, it was amazing, and an incredible amount of food, from cold dishes, to meatballs, prosciutto and melon, beans, frittata, WOW. Then had some pasta, and it was great.
After lunch, went to a bakery we had seen near Campo di Fiori (was on Piazza della Cancelleria) for some great cookies and pastries.
Got some rest at hotel before our 6 pm RomeWalks twilight tour. This tour was also excellent, and while we had seen everything on our own, the explanations and history made it more interesting. Started at Spanish Steps, then Trevi Fountain, Pantheon, into a gallery for some Presecco, then to Piazza Navona, then Capitoline Hill and then a night time view of the Forum (about 2 hours).
Dinner, back to Baffetto for more great pizza, then back to hotel to pack up for our trip to Venice the next morning.
Wednesday morning, walked to Termini for train to Venice. Had booked tickets on Trenitalia online for Eurostar train. Found train and our assigned car and seats no problem. We went first class (didn't look that much different than 2nd class, but the little extra room and comfort was worth it to us, and was not that much more money). Seats were comfortable.
Also, I have seen many questions about this, and just wanted to say that we had no problem fitting our 2 large (26 or 27 inch suitcases) on the racks above the seats. (Don't know if they are bigger than in 2nd class, but it looked about the same to me). Gave conductor the printout confirmation of tickets, and no problems. Train ride was uneventful and arrived just about on time.
VENICE will be in a separate post to follow.
If anyone has any questions at all, please don't hesitate to ask. I'd love to repay others for all the great help I've gotten here.
More to follow...
Sep 27th, 2004, 09:16 AM
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We had no problem crossing the street, but we are from New York City. Where there are lights, the cars obey them, and you cross with the light. Elsewhere, find a crosswalk and just go. They WILL stop. Walk with confidence and just keep going, it's not a problem.
Sep 27th, 2004, 10:13 AM
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We had signed up in advance. There were 6 people in our group, so I'm sure they could have taken a couple more. But, you have to be careful because there are somtimes changes in schedule. Our Colosseum tour was supposed to be at 10 am. but they had emailed me several days before we left that it had been changed to 1:30. So, you never would have known if you were not already registered. If you don't want to sign up in advance, you could probably call them when you arrive to make arrangements. But, they don't have every tour every day.
Sep 27th, 2004, 10:14 AM
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Part 2--VENICE
Arrived in Venice with no problem, and left train station to get water taxi. (One hint that I had read in my research was that instead of going into the station at end of platform, walk to your left where there is a ramp, easy to roll luggage, instead of having to drag it down the steps in front of the station). Went to water taxi stand in front of station, and got taxi to hotel (cost was 50 Euro, and was worth it to us, a great way to arrive--went down some side canals, it was fun).
Hotel--Palazzo Sant'Angelo. Hotel was awesome. Small hotel (about 14 rooms) right on the grand canal. Had a deluxe room, and again it was enormous. Entry hallway leading to huge marble bathroom with jacuzzi tub and 2 sinks. Then, another hallway leading to bedroom area, again large, seating area with couch and a desk. Yellow and gold wallpaper and carpet. Traditional Venecian decor, but very modern hotel (only a few years old I believe, part of Sina Hotel group.) Also a very large walk in closet with dresser. Lovely breakfast room with meats, cheese, eggs, bacon, breads and pastry, cereal--all included in price, was very nice. Would highly recommend this hotel. Also, vaporetto stop right at front door of hotel (in addition to private dock for water taxi). We actually ended up walking everywhere, only took 1 vaporetto, plus one to Murano. Glad we didn't get the Venice card or a multi-day pass.
Got to hotel around 2, room was ready and settled in before heading out.
First, I must say that all the words and pictures cannot prepare you for the beauty and experience of Venice. While Rome has great things to see, when you are walking around, it is a big city. Venice itself is a sight to see, just walking around the streets is an amazing experience.
From hotel, went out to explore and get some lunch. Ate at Le Cafe, a small cafe in Campo Sant Stefano, just a few "blocks" from our hotel and on the way to San Marco. Had some nice bruschetta and some ice cream (the amazing Venice specialty with the ice cream floating in melted white chocoloate--yum!)
After lunch, walked to Piazza San Marco. WOW, what a sight for the first time, breathtaking. Of course, fed the pigeons and took pictures of us covered in birds. (Funny, we're from NYC, and would never dream of touching or interacting with pigeons at home. Here, it was fun!)
Then, walked from San Marco to Rialto, along the Merceria, the streets lined with shops, just looking at the lovely stores. Walked over the Rialto bridge looking at stores, then explored the area on the other side of the bridge a bit as well.
Went back to our hotel and called it an early night after a long day. Picked up a sandwich at a nearby shop for a light dinner.
Thursday--Just about the only minor glitch of the whole trip, but not a big deal. I had emailed the hotel in advance asking them to make a reservation for the secret itinerary tour at Doge's palace. When we arrived back at the hotel Wednesday afternoon and asked about it, the person at the desk couldn't find the information, but said he would talk to the concierge in the morning. We told him to make it for Friday or Saturday, and we would do something else Thursday. Well, Thursday morning, concierge called us and said he did make the reservation for Thursday morning. Great. So we went to Doge's Palace to check in, and the person asked us how well we understood Italian. We said "not well." She told us the hotel had called that morning to book, and she explained to them that she only had availability for the Italian tour. The hotel booked it anyway, and never bothered to mention it to us. So, she was able to give us a reservation for the English tour the next day. So we decided to go to plan B and took the vaporetto up to Cannaregio to go to the Jewish ghetto. Took the tour at the Museo Ebraico, it was very interesting, saw the old synagogues. After the tour, we had lunch at Gam Gam, a famous Kosher restaurant, and had some potato latkes, falafel, and some other "Jewish"/mediterranean food, as well as some pasta.
After lunch, walked around exploring that area some more, walked over the Scalzi bridge, down to Piazza San Polo, then back to Rialto and back to hotel for some rest.
Dinner--Ate at Trattoria Da Fiore (near Campo San Stefano) (not Osteria Da Fiore), based on recommendations here. It was very good.
Walked around a bit after dinner and back to hotel. Afterwards, went out and took our gondola ride, starting near the Rialto bridge. Our gondolier was excellent, took us on a nice route along some smaller canals as well as on the grand canal a bit.
Friday--morning--Piazza San Marco for the Doge's Palace and secret itinerary tour. Tour was excellent, but I had read that the tour took you onto the bridge of sighs, but ours did not (don't know if some of them do). But the tour was fun, getting to see the back rooms and cells, including Casanova's cell. After tour, looked around the rest of the Doge's palace.
Lunch--ate at Cafe Florian in Piazza San Marco. Yes, it's overpriced, but had a nice light lunch of excellent sandwiches.
Began to walk around after lunch, when a cold front started to come in. Temperature dropped about 20 degrees in 5 minutes, wind picked up and everyone started running for cover. Made it back to hotel in nick of time before skies opened up. Took our afternoon rest waiting for rain to let down. Later on, went back to San Marco and went to the Correr Musem including Museo Archologico. They were very interesting.
Dinner--Da Raffaele (again, based on recommendations here), not far from San Marco. Dinner was very good and I thought reasonably priced. My wife is a picky eater, and she loved it. Couldn't eat outside because it was still cold and a bit damp from the storm.
Saturday-oh no, our last day! Back to San Marco, up to top of Campanile and then the Basilica. Both were amazing. The basilica was beautiful, more beautiful than St. Peter's in Rome I thought.
Lunch--again, Cafe Florian. Still overpriced, but we loved the sandwiches and just being out in the Piazza watching everything going on.
After lunch, went over to Murano to see the glassblowing and looked around a bit. (Take the no. 5 Vaporetto rather than the 41--a bit faster, it is an "express". The 5 runs through September or October I believe).
Back to hotel for afternoon rest.
Dinner--back to Da Raffaele--not great, but very good, we obviously enjoyed it enough to go back. Were going to go to Da Arturo, near hotel, but menu looked a bit more limited, so decided to go back to Raffaele. I thought it was very reasonably priced (about 50 Euro per person, maybe a bit more, I had 3 courses plus dessert, wife had 2 plus dessert).
After dinner, back to San Marco for one last look to say goodbye.
Back to hotel to pack to come home (sob!)
Hotel called water taxi for us to go to airport. Cost was 80 Euro, and was a very nice ride, a stylish way to leave Venice.
Flew from Venice to Rome, right on time. Alitalia rep met flight in Rome, taking all connecting passengers and led us from terminal A through airport to terminal C. Had plenty of time, but it was a long walk, and included waiting in 2 lines, one for security again and the other passport control. Got off first plane about 12:10 and got to gate for 2nd flight at about 1. Boarded right away, again business class, very comfortable. Flight was delayed a bit.
Enjoyable (LONG!), uneventful flight home.
All in all an amazing trip, and we loved everything we saw. Also, I had bought one of those Pimsleur CD courses at Barnes & Noble, and studied some vocabulary for a few weeks before leaving, and I was able to converse well enough. Mostly everyone spoke English, and if I spoke to them in Italian, they usually answered in English. But at a few places (a couple of stores and restaurants) they didn't speak much English and I was able to talk to them. Probably not necessary to learn, but I enjoyed it and was glad I could (at least attempt to) talk to them in Italian.
I'm sure I've left some things out. I'll be happy to pass along any info or tips I picked up if anyone has any questions.
Until next time, arrivederci!
Arrived in Venice with no problem, and left train station to get water taxi. (One hint that I had read in my research was that instead of going into the station at end of platform, walk to your left where there is a ramp, easy to roll luggage, instead of having to drag it down the steps in front of the station). Went to water taxi stand in front of station, and got taxi to hotel (cost was 50 Euro, and was worth it to us, a great way to arrive--went down some side canals, it was fun).
Hotel--Palazzo Sant'Angelo. Hotel was awesome. Small hotel (about 14 rooms) right on the grand canal. Had a deluxe room, and again it was enormous. Entry hallway leading to huge marble bathroom with jacuzzi tub and 2 sinks. Then, another hallway leading to bedroom area, again large, seating area with couch and a desk. Yellow and gold wallpaper and carpet. Traditional Venecian decor, but very modern hotel (only a few years old I believe, part of Sina Hotel group.) Also a very large walk in closet with dresser. Lovely breakfast room with meats, cheese, eggs, bacon, breads and pastry, cereal--all included in price, was very nice. Would highly recommend this hotel. Also, vaporetto stop right at front door of hotel (in addition to private dock for water taxi). We actually ended up walking everywhere, only took 1 vaporetto, plus one to Murano. Glad we didn't get the Venice card or a multi-day pass.
Got to hotel around 2, room was ready and settled in before heading out.
First, I must say that all the words and pictures cannot prepare you for the beauty and experience of Venice. While Rome has great things to see, when you are walking around, it is a big city. Venice itself is a sight to see, just walking around the streets is an amazing experience.
From hotel, went out to explore and get some lunch. Ate at Le Cafe, a small cafe in Campo Sant Stefano, just a few "blocks" from our hotel and on the way to San Marco. Had some nice bruschetta and some ice cream (the amazing Venice specialty with the ice cream floating in melted white chocoloate--yum!)
After lunch, walked to Piazza San Marco. WOW, what a sight for the first time, breathtaking. Of course, fed the pigeons and took pictures of us covered in birds. (Funny, we're from NYC, and would never dream of touching or interacting with pigeons at home. Here, it was fun!)
Then, walked from San Marco to Rialto, along the Merceria, the streets lined with shops, just looking at the lovely stores. Walked over the Rialto bridge looking at stores, then explored the area on the other side of the bridge a bit as well.
Went back to our hotel and called it an early night after a long day. Picked up a sandwich at a nearby shop for a light dinner.
Thursday--Just about the only minor glitch of the whole trip, but not a big deal. I had emailed the hotel in advance asking them to make a reservation for the secret itinerary tour at Doge's palace. When we arrived back at the hotel Wednesday afternoon and asked about it, the person at the desk couldn't find the information, but said he would talk to the concierge in the morning. We told him to make it for Friday or Saturday, and we would do something else Thursday. Well, Thursday morning, concierge called us and said he did make the reservation for Thursday morning. Great. So we went to Doge's Palace to check in, and the person asked us how well we understood Italian. We said "not well." She told us the hotel had called that morning to book, and she explained to them that she only had availability for the Italian tour. The hotel booked it anyway, and never bothered to mention it to us. So, she was able to give us a reservation for the English tour the next day. So we decided to go to plan B and took the vaporetto up to Cannaregio to go to the Jewish ghetto. Took the tour at the Museo Ebraico, it was very interesting, saw the old synagogues. After the tour, we had lunch at Gam Gam, a famous Kosher restaurant, and had some potato latkes, falafel, and some other "Jewish"/mediterranean food, as well as some pasta.
After lunch, walked around exploring that area some more, walked over the Scalzi bridge, down to Piazza San Polo, then back to Rialto and back to hotel for some rest.
Dinner--Ate at Trattoria Da Fiore (near Campo San Stefano) (not Osteria Da Fiore), based on recommendations here. It was very good.
Walked around a bit after dinner and back to hotel. Afterwards, went out and took our gondola ride, starting near the Rialto bridge. Our gondolier was excellent, took us on a nice route along some smaller canals as well as on the grand canal a bit.
Friday--morning--Piazza San Marco for the Doge's Palace and secret itinerary tour. Tour was excellent, but I had read that the tour took you onto the bridge of sighs, but ours did not (don't know if some of them do). But the tour was fun, getting to see the back rooms and cells, including Casanova's cell. After tour, looked around the rest of the Doge's palace.
Lunch--ate at Cafe Florian in Piazza San Marco. Yes, it's overpriced, but had a nice light lunch of excellent sandwiches.
Began to walk around after lunch, when a cold front started to come in. Temperature dropped about 20 degrees in 5 minutes, wind picked up and everyone started running for cover. Made it back to hotel in nick of time before skies opened up. Took our afternoon rest waiting for rain to let down. Later on, went back to San Marco and went to the Correr Musem including Museo Archologico. They were very interesting.
Dinner--Da Raffaele (again, based on recommendations here), not far from San Marco. Dinner was very good and I thought reasonably priced. My wife is a picky eater, and she loved it. Couldn't eat outside because it was still cold and a bit damp from the storm.
Saturday-oh no, our last day! Back to San Marco, up to top of Campanile and then the Basilica. Both were amazing. The basilica was beautiful, more beautiful than St. Peter's in Rome I thought.
Lunch--again, Cafe Florian. Still overpriced, but we loved the sandwiches and just being out in the Piazza watching everything going on.
After lunch, went over to Murano to see the glassblowing and looked around a bit. (Take the no. 5 Vaporetto rather than the 41--a bit faster, it is an "express". The 5 runs through September or October I believe).
Back to hotel for afternoon rest.
Dinner--back to Da Raffaele--not great, but very good, we obviously enjoyed it enough to go back. Were going to go to Da Arturo, near hotel, but menu looked a bit more limited, so decided to go back to Raffaele. I thought it was very reasonably priced (about 50 Euro per person, maybe a bit more, I had 3 courses plus dessert, wife had 2 plus dessert).
After dinner, back to San Marco for one last look to say goodbye.
Back to hotel to pack to come home (sob!)
Hotel called water taxi for us to go to airport. Cost was 80 Euro, and was a very nice ride, a stylish way to leave Venice.
Flew from Venice to Rome, right on time. Alitalia rep met flight in Rome, taking all connecting passengers and led us from terminal A through airport to terminal C. Had plenty of time, but it was a long walk, and included waiting in 2 lines, one for security again and the other passport control. Got off first plane about 12:10 and got to gate for 2nd flight at about 1. Boarded right away, again business class, very comfortable. Flight was delayed a bit.
Enjoyable (LONG!), uneventful flight home.
All in all an amazing trip, and we loved everything we saw. Also, I had bought one of those Pimsleur CD courses at Barnes & Noble, and studied some vocabulary for a few weeks before leaving, and I was able to converse well enough. Mostly everyone spoke English, and if I spoke to them in Italian, they usually answered in English. But at a few places (a couple of stores and restaurants) they didn't speak much English and I was able to talk to them. Probably not necessary to learn, but I enjoyed it and was glad I could (at least attempt to) talk to them in Italian.
I'm sure I've left some things out. I'll be happy to pass along any info or tips I picked up if anyone has any questions.
Until next time, arrivederci!
Sep 27th, 2004, 10:47 AM
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Yes, already looking forward to next trip. Would love to see Amalfi coast as well. My wife and I started discussing on the plane ride home yesterday where our next European vacation should be. I've only been to a few places (she's been to more), so there are so many on my list. I think the leading contenders right now are Switzerland and France, although no decisions yet. Maybe the trip after that we'll go back to Italy, I miss it already!
Oct 2nd, 2004, 03:58 PM
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Welcome back, almesq! We returned from our first trip to Italy one month ago and can't wait to return. I had planned on staying at the Exedra, but cancelled after hearing some negative reviews. But it sounds like it was lovely, and your description makes me wish we had stayed there.
Oct 2nd, 2004, 08:09 PM
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We really did love the hotel. We had a deluxe room and it was enormous, and the neighborhood was fine, walked pretty much everywhere from the hotel. Really wouldn't have mattered where we stayed, just loved being in Rome.
