Nice and Provence--4 Day Itinerary--Feedback Please
 

Hi--

Will be traveling to France including 4 days to split between Nice and Provence early August for first-time visit. Party of 4 includes 2 middle-agers, one with some mobility limitations (can walk fair distance on cane but not looking for rough hiking), plus 2 teacher (art and history) daughters, mid-20's. What is set so far, arrival from London via air to Nice on Saturday, 10:00 a.m. and we plan to leave from Avignon on early a.m. on Wednesday via TGV to spend 4 days in Paris (7th Ar rental).

Feedback on this preliminary itinerary would be greatly appreciated. So far, I do have 2 night reservation in Nice but am thinking to change it to one night and head toward Provence later on second day. Wish we had more time, but this is it and we want to make the best of it.

Saturday

· Arrive Nice via air at 10:05a
· To Hotel Suisse, hopefully by noon via bus or cab (or maybe rental)
· Grab some lunch first, or, picnic if public beach, or beach snack bars?
· Visit one of the beaches—public? Private?
· Explore either Vieux Nice or Promenade—what order?
· Dinner somewhere
· Possible nightclubs/bars for mixed age group or suggestions for 20’s safe/convenient to either Hotel Suisse or via cab

Sunday

· Morning market Cours Saleya
· Beach
· Check out of Hotel Suisse, baggage hold
· P/U rental car hopefully in town mid-late afternoon
· Spend night in Aix-En-Provence

Monday

· Morning—7ish—head toward Gordes
· Stop at Cavaillon for market—time? Vendors?
· Continue to Gordes to see lavender fields, Lavender Museum (?), Abbaye Notre-Dame de Senanque, see Borries near Gordes
· Head to Avignon to arrive around 1 or 2 pm—check into hotel for 2 nights, possibly near Palais du Pope
· Visit Pont du Gard in afternoon
· See Palais du Pope in evening
· Dinner in town
· Night spots?

Tuesday

· Explore Arles, St. Remy
· Winery??
· What else?
· Back to Avignon before dark (9 pm)

Wednesday

· TGV to Paris @ 6:40 a.m.

Thank you for any suggestions. Also, one vegetarian (not vegan), so anywhere on this itinerary you might know of where there might be some actual choices would be greatly appreciated.

>>Saturday

· Arrive Nice via air at 10:05a
· To Hotel Suisse, hopefully by noon via bus or cab (or maybe rental)
· Grab some lunch first, or, picnic if public beach, or beach snack bars?
· Visit one of the beaches—public? Private?<<

What is entailed in a "visit" - spending the afternoon sunbathing?? The public beaches are kinda "rough" - flat polished stones that I don't like to walk on. Throwing a towell on the beach seems uncomfortable to me. Public beaches are quite plush - you can rent a chaise lounge, umbrella, and there are mats you walk on (instead of walking on rocks). You can have lunch at the restaurant associated with the specific public concession you chooe - that's what I would do. Very nice way to start your visit. However, in August, I would make a reservation for lunch. I don't know where the Suisse is, but call them and ask for their reommendation for the closest nice private beach concession on the beach where you can have lunch & sunbathe (snooze),.

>>· Explore either Vieux Nice or Promenade—what order?
· Dinner somewhere<<

Have dinner on the Cours Saleya in Old Nice at Safari - call to reserve. Walk along the Promenade before & after dinner. The 20YOs (and everyone else) will love the scene on the Cours in the evening

>.· Possible nightclubs/bars for mixed age group or suggestions for 20’s safe/convenient to either Hotel Suisse or via cab<<

Nope - just wander in Old Nice & along the Promenade on Sat Night.

>>Sunday

· Morning market Cours Saleya
· Beach
· Check out of Hotel Suisse, baggage hold
· P/U rental car hopefully in town mid-late afternoon
· Spend night in Aix-En-Provence<<

Why Aix on Sunday???? It will be dead, dead, dead. Practically all shops will not be open (at least they aren't in June or Sept). With such a limited time, just stay in Nice Sunday night & save a packing & unpacking. Shops will be closed on Monday morning too.

>>Monday

· Morning—7ish—head toward Gordes
· Stop at Cavaillon for market—time? Vendors?<

I'm not a big fan of Cavaillon - and I don't think their market is that great.

>· Continue to Gordes to see lavender fields, Lavender Museum (?), Abbaye Notre-Dame de Senanque, see Borries near Gordes<<

That's fine - but plan to spend most of the day visiting other sections of the Luberon - Roussillon, Bonnieux, and the beautful countryside in between.


>· Head to Avignon to arrive around 1 or 2 pm—check into hotel for 2 nights, possibly near Palais du Pope
· Visit Pont du Gard in afternoon
· See Palais du Pope in evening
· Dinner in town<<

No way you are going to wake up in Aix or Nice, visit the market in Cavaillon, drive in the Luberon a bit, visit the lavender fields there & the museum, check into a hotel in Avignon at 2, visit the Palais, and then the Pont du Gard in 1 (one), day. No way. At least I wouldn't do it - especially with 4 people.

Just drive around/visit the Luberon, get over to Avignon around 3 or 4, check into the hotel and visit the Palais.

>>· Night spots?<<

Just wander in town

>Tuesday

· Explore Arles, St. Remy
· Winery??
· What else?
· Back to Avignon before dark (9 pm)<<

Pont du Gard in the AM.
St Remy & Les Baux in the afternoon.

>>Wednesday

· TGV to Paris @ 6:40 a.m.<<

You'll need to get up early - the TGV station is out of town a bit.

Personally, for 4 days I would just stay in the Nice area. There are just as many cute little villages around Nice as there are in Provenece - perhaps more (you'll need a car, however). Check with others about when in August the lavender is harvested.

Stu Dudley

Thank you for your interest and assistance, Stu!

I know our time is too short to do all I'd hope to do and I'm going to try to rework this.

For Saturday in Nice, I think we will be good. The Hotel Suisse is beyond the far eastern end of Quai des Etats-Unis (where it curves south and becomes Quai Rauba Capeu) which I think situates us well for Cours Saleya and Vieux Nice. There is indication the hotel has a deal with a private beach across the street, so between that and other research between now and then, I think we'll have a "Nice";-) time having our first dip in the Med. Your dining suggestion is greatly appreciated and I will try to check if they have a non-smoking section when reserving.

For Sunday, after the market, maybe another beach session, etc--I am still unsure how we will proceed. The Aix-En-Provence idea was not with the intent of actually seeing much, but rather to situate us closer to our morning goals for Monday, i.e., leave Nice with enough time to check in somewhere before dark and have dinner--I thought since it's a bigger town there'd be convenient choices for Sunday. Until I started to think about leaving Nice on Sunday, I hadn't planned on stopping in Aix at all.

I am not opposed to spending two nights in Nice, as I'd originally reserved, rather I was thinking it might be more cost and time effective to leave Nice on Sunday to reposition for Monday morning. If we stay in Nice for the night, I would probably take the first bus to the airport and pick up a rental there since they open at 6:00 a.m. and in-town or rail station not until 8:00-8:30, really too late, I think for our Monday plans.

The other alternative would be to leave Nice late afternoon on Sunday and head toward the Luberon so that Monday morning we can get an early start but not so early as if we leave from Nice. If you do see any value, logic or expediency to that plan, might you have a couple of suggestions of where might be a good town to sleep and dine, either Aix or preferably further north toward/in Luberon village.

On Monday, then, I am trying to do further research along the lines of your suggestion to see more of the villages around Gordes. Thank you for your input on the market in Cavaillon. That was the only one I initially found along our route which was open on Monday morning, however, I have now found a site showing Monday morning markets in Cadenet, Forclaquier, Lauris--Forclaquier looks too far east but what about the other two--either of them worth a stop? Our dates don't really work for any of the great markets, but if any of those in our travel path are worth it, we'd stop for the experience. I'm looking at possibly cutting north off the A8 near Aix in either of scenarios (i.e. early start Monday from Nice, or morning start from somewhere in Luberon). Hopefully there will be a couple of wineries where we can stop and taste and/or tour without advance notice--any recommendations?

I'll heed your advice and wait until late afternoon to head to Avignon and will spend Monday and Tuesday nights there, seeing Palais on Monday per your suggestion, and heading out early Tuesday for Pont du Gard. I'll have to do more planning for St. Remy, Les Baux as you suggested, and possibly a stop in Arles. Back to Avignon before dark and it looks like there are lots of options there for evening.

One thing I'd like responses about is security. I've never traveled anywhere that I've come across so many warnings about pickpockets, car break-ins, etc. Now maybe I just started clicking on too many links on this topic, especially for Paris and Nice, but I'm wondering what folks have actually found in their own travels. Did you actually feel more vulnerable in these areas than you would in any major U.S. cities/tourist destinations?

Well, looks like I have lots of details to plan here, so let me say thank you again to Stu, and anyone else who might offer feedback, suggestions, etc. Your help is greatly appreciated!

Smoking. If you dine outside, you might encounter smokers. Pick a corner table on the front row next to the pedestrian traffic. France is non-smoking inside restaurants.

>>If we stay in Nice for the night, I would probably take the first bus to the airport and pick up a rental there since they open at 6:00 a.m. and in-town or rail station not until 8:00-8:30, really too late, I think for our Monday plans.<<

Depends on what time of day you return the car. If you pick up the car Monday at 7 am, and return it anytime from 8 am to 6PM , it will be the same cost for you if you get the car after 6PM on Sunday - the night before.

>>The other alternative would be to leave Nice late afternoon on Sunday and head toward the Luberon so that Monday morning we can get an early start but not so early as if we leave from Nice. If you do see any value, logic or expediency to that plan, might you have a couple of suggestions of where might be a good town to sleep and dine, either Aix or preferably further north toward/in Luberon village.<<

Thast sounds like a good idea. It takes about 2 1/4 hrs to get to Gordes or St Remy from Nice. On Sundays, truck traffic is almost non-existant - so you can make good time on the freeway. The freewy is actually quite scenic around the St Tropez exit.

>>On Monday, then, I am trying to do further research along the lines of your suggestion to see more of the villages around Gordes. Thank you for your input on the market in Cavaillon. That was the only one I initially found along our route which was open on Monday morning, however, I have now found a site showing Monday morning markets in Cadenet, Forclaquier, Lauris--Forclaquier looks too far east but what about the other two--either of them worth a stop?<<

Gordes actually has a Tuesday market. Bedoin has an excellent Monday market, but it is too far north.
Lauris is kind of an interesting village - not very large. Don't know what the market is like. Cadenet is only OK. Never been to the market. These villages are right next to each othere - and I'm guessing that the markets would be quite small. Neither is mentioned on my list of markets in Provence.

>>couple of wineries where we can stop and taste and/or tour without advance notice--any recommendations?<,

Yep - forget it. It's more of an effort to visit wineries in France than it is in the US (I live near Napa/Sonoma)

>>One thing I'd like responses about is security. I've never traveled anywhere that I've come across so many warnings about pickpockets, car break-ins, etc. Now maybe I just started clicking on too many links on this topic, especially for Paris and Nice, but I'm wondering what folks have actually found in their own travels. Did you actually feel more vulnerable in these areas than you would in any major U.S. cities/tourist destinations?<<

Statistically, it is much safer in a French city than any similar city in the US. I lived in San Francisco or just 20 mins away for the last 34 years. I feel safer in Nice & Paris than in SF. We have never worn money belts. I keep my wallet in my front picket. My wife has a secure purse (all zippered-up), with shoulder straps. When we have luggage in the trunk of the car & want to park, we back the car up against a wall/lightpost/tree/anything solid so that the trunk can not physically be opened.

We got pickpocketed in front of Notre Dame in Paris 31 years ago on our first trip. Mom & 2 young kids chanted at us while we were sitting on a bench. They shoved papers in front of us. Youngest child picked my wife's purse while we were distracted. Don't let ANYONE distract you.

Stu Dudley

I may have missed one of your questions.

Sounds like the best option for you is to head to Provence in the late afternoon on Sunday.

It's a scenic 2 1/2 hr drive to the Avignon/Provence area. Pick up the car at the Nice train station (take a taxi there - verify that it will be open on Sunday). The roads around the train station can get some heavy commute traffic - but not on a Sunday.

Perhaps the question I missed...
Do you plan on staying in Avignon on that night (Sunday - seems you plan to stay there Mon & Tues)??? You may have asked for a rec on where to stay Sunday. If so - I would stay in Avignon that night so you don't have to change hotels again. Personally, while in that area of Provence I prefer to stay in the Luberon countryside around Gordes/Roussillon/Bonnieux, or in a smaller village like St Remy (lots of restaurants & other stuff yu can walk to) - but Avignon is fine if you want a large city. There is some pretty awful sprawl in Avignon to the west & north - but just ignore it. Traffic getting in & out of Avignon can be frustrating at times.

Stu Dudley

One tip -

My husband broke his foot a few weeks before our France trip. We took his temporary handicapped permit with us and it worked great everywhere. I had read that it is universally recognized and it was. We were able to park closer and easier and it also allowed us to drive most of the way up to Eze instead of having to park at the bottom and walk up. We just flashed it to the policeman guarding the entrance and he waved us right through.

So even if your friend doesn't have a handicapped permit, they might want to ask their doctor for a temporary before you go. It might save a lot of wear and tear.

I don't know how all the states handle hanidcapped placards - but here in Calif the Dr gives you a "permit", which you must take the the DMV to get the placard.

My wife broke her foot too.

Stu Dudley

Yes, in Michigan we had to take our form to the DMV and get our hanging window permit.

What is the deal with clumsy Fodorite spouses before trips to France?!?

I still made him hike up the medieval spiral staircase in Uzes to see the view. Getting him down was quite the experience.

Think it might be too late for the lavender but the sunflowers will be up.

Thanks, Stu, kellieb and TDudette for your replies.

I was working on all this last night and have a dozen windows open at home to resume later.

Let me work backward a bit. TDudette, I hope there will be some lavender to see somewhere in the region. Some of the books I've looked at say July and August (others say June and July), so I really hope that somewhere we'll see and smell some that hasn't petered out or been harvested. We'll be in this area Aug 9-10, so maybe there's hope.

As for the parking placard, we've got one and believe me, it'll be highlighted on my packing list. It was the only thing I forgot 2 years ago on a month-long trip "down under"--I left the changeover to traveling purse for last and the cab was honking...quoth the raven....

I have to double-check 'cause it's been a week or so and I could be rusty, but I think when I checked I can get a car at the station in Nice at least until 4 on Sunday. I'll check out of the hotel, put our stuff in baggage hold on Sunday for a few hours, do whatever, then get the car and head out probably around 4pm or so.

I was looking at a couple of places, either Roussillon or just south of Gordes (something in Les Imbres I think it was) just for Sunday night, probably prepacking just what's needed for that one night. I do hate to lug, pack, unpack for one night, Stu, but in this case I think it will be worth it to see this scenic area in both the evening and morning light depending where I am, and I'm a sucker for sunrises and sunsets. I also found at least one winery tasting room that's supposed to be open in that area, so hopefully we can fit that in--youngest hasn't had that experience anywhere yet and it'd be fun to fulfill that request--lavender was the other request.

I guess we'll head to Avignon late Monday afternoon and book there for 2 nights, probably inside the center near the Palais--Is that location okay? We'll go out early Tuesday, see Pont du Gard, St. Remy, etc, then back to Avignon before dark, leaving hotel 5 a.m.-ish Wednesday for Paris via TGV. Avignon TGV says there's a drop box for car keys. Hopefully all's secure there.

Once I get this all set I'll run my Paris itinerary by this forum for detailed assistance though I've pretty much allocated our four days in terms of a major thing each day and fit the rest into evenings, late afternoons--just need to figure out best day for each thing.

Stu, thanks for sharing re: your bad experience at Notre Dame and I'm glad you've both been safe since. I think the most digusting thing I've read in the last couple of weeks was women in Italy throwing babies at tourists. Walking with someone on a cane who's got some obvious partial paralysis has made me verrrrrrry aware of surroundings and would-be trouble. One evening in Toronto last year there were 3 of us lagging sort of behind a larger group and two of us noticed we were being targeted and tried to close the gap with friends up ahead--but we were still lagging some as I was pulling hub along on the cane--faster, faster. I'd like to borrow one of those special canes they've got on display in the FBI weapons room.... We were followed quite a way down Yonge St until we were turning into our hotel's walkway. It's not a good feeling. But, we've been to Toronto numerous times, same hotel, same jaunts, bumped and pushed through the crowds at the corners and that was the first time it happened. For this trip I think I may have to ban the travel vest that's worked so well for him since Oz--too bad--it surely lightened my load but I've seen quite a few reports of slashings recently and people being surrounded.

Well, I'm rambling--back to the rock. Once again, thank you so very much for your input--it's very reassuring to have feedback from those in the know when planning!

Ah, sunflowers....

You probably mean les Imberts near Gordes. Great location - that's close to where we stay when spending time in the Luberon (4 weeks, over 2 trips - in a Gite).

Avignon TGV station. As you enter the complex through the gates, look for the signs to the car rental offices which are on the "other" side of the train station. You will be turning right to get to these offices once you get inside the complex - pay attention & don't miss the entrance to the car rental return parking lots. If you miss them, you'll have to circle the complex again. As you approach the offices, do not drive on the road to the left which is right next to the station - that's where cars go to drop of passengers and you'll have to wait till all the passengers in front of you are dropped off.

The car rental lot is less than 50 yds from the station.

Do you have my 27 page Cote d'Azur & Provence itinerary? I've sent it to well over 700 people on Fodors & aol. E-mail me at [email protected] & I'll send you one by reply e-mail.

Stu Dudley

If you have time after Pont du Gard and need a good meal, push through to Uzes. And climb the medieval tower. It is a very quaint town.

And in Nice, we would go to the market in the morning and get some yummies and then cross the road and sit on the beach and eat our early lunch. You might want to pack a swiss army knife for cheese cutting or some plastic forks. And if you have any time to do Eze, it is just lovely. It is much easier to do with a car than without.

Thanks once again, Stu and kellieb--

Hopefully soon I can get those Luberon and Avignon selections made and do reservations.

The info on Avignon TGV is very helpful, Stu, and yes, thank you, I will email for your itinerary.

Don't worry, kellieb--I'll be sure to have those aids and a corkscrew, too;-) Gotta eat and drink those local yummies as you go!

The corkscrew is imperative! I even had traveling plastic wine glasses!

I usually agree with Stu, but I can't on his assessment of the Cavillon market. We found it terrific with everything imaginable and some very good activity.

Julie

Which day did you visit the Cavaillon market?

There are actually two market days in Cavaillon - Monday &amp; Friday. I'm pretty sure we went to the Monday market. We would have probably visited the Carpentras market on Friday - which is fabulous. Perhaps the Friday market in Cavaillon is better than their Monday market. In Uzes, the Sat market is very large, and their market on Wednesday is dinky.

Stu Dudley

There is a good vegetarian restaurant in Nice: Zucca Magica. It's on the port and would just be a pretty easy walk from your hotel.

sequess, I agree.
kellybellie:
" Reminds me of my safari in Africa. Somebody forgot the corkscrew and for several days we had to live on nothing but food and water.”....w.c. fields

I understand Stu's comment about wineries if you've visited those in California - but if you go to St Remy and Les Baux there is a winery between the two - Le Mas de la Dame - that we really enjoyed. A very nice sparkling rose. The house is in one of Van Gogh's paintings. We even went back for a second visit/purchase. Just down the road is an olive grower that we also liked a lot.

I second sequess's vote for Zucca Magica. But go hungry! After the 3rd of 7 courses I started groaning and the owner/chef shook his finger at me and said:

"We are vegetarian not dietetic, Madam"

A fun place. I'd suggest reservations if you go for dinner-it isn't large.