Need help planning Scotland itinerary

Old Sep 11th, 2022, 08:22 AM
  #41  
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Tom, thanks for the information. I probably won't make my decision as to where we stay the night before departure until I have made our airline reservations so I know exactly what flight we have. BTW, how long does it take by taxi to get from the airport to downtown Edinburgh? If we stay overnight at the airport, it would be nice to go into Edinburgh for dinner.

I think there is also a noon time flight using Star Alliance partners.

Flying Delta non-stop would be the easiest and quickest but right now fares are about $1200 - $1400 per person. I won't make my airline reservations for another 2 months and will keep checking airfares, too. If the Delta fares drop below $1000, we might consider paying cash and not use our miles for this trip. The Delta flight leaves at noon, I think. Would it be risky/stressful to overnight in Callender or Stirling the night before our flight, which means getting up very early and returning the car first, if the flight leaves at noon?

Last edited by KarenWoo; Sep 11th, 2022 at 08:26 AM.
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Old Sep 11th, 2022, 09:22 AM
  #42  
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I have a draft of my itinerary that I would love opinions on.

Janisj, your suggested itinerary on Sept. 7 (post #13) includes 6 bases. I prefer to keep it to 5 if possible to minimize packing and unpacking and moving around. My proposed itinerary is based on 16 nights and flying in and out of Edinburgh.

I will also include Google drive times, which may not be accurate but it's all I have right now. So please comment how accurate or inaccurate they are.

Edinburgh - 4 nights
Visit Stirling Castle on the way to Crail (or does it make sense to visit Stirling Castle at the end of our trip, on our way back to Edinburgh?) 1.5 hour drive from Stirling Castle to Crail.
Crail - 2 nights (East Neuk Coastal drive, stop at fishing villages along the way, and visit St. Andrews, especially the castle ruins and cathedral ruins)
Nairn or Grantown on Spey - 4 nights - I might prefer Nairn to be on the water.
Drive from Crail to Nairn - 3 hours and 16 minutes. Make stops along the way in Cairngorm NP.
While in Nairn, visit Elgin Cathedral, a distillery or two, Urquhart Castle, Lock Ness, possibly a boat ride on Loch Ness, and/or drive around Loch Ness. Perhaps Culloden Battlefield, Cawdor Castle, and/or Black Isle if time permits.
Portree - 3 nights. Drive from Nairn to Portree - 2 hours and 45 minutes.

I now have 3 nights left, and this is where I am confused.
Possibly Callander for 2 nights OR Ballachulish OR Oban for 2 nights. Does it make sense to try and visit Mull for a day from Oban? The prehistoric site of Kilmartin Glen also sounds interesting. Is trying to include Oban and Mull too much rushing around? I like MaiTaiTom's description of his drive from Killin to Oban; we could possibly do that in the reverse or at least part of it from Oban or Ballachulish but not sure if this is doable. The Trossachs sound beautiful, too, so Callander is appealing. I am trying to avoid a lot of rushing around and driving out of our way.

And our last night will be determined when I make our airline reservations.

Drive times:
From Portree to Oban - 3.5 hours
Portree to Callander - 4 1/4 hours
Oban to Edinburgh - 3 hours

Thank you to everyone who has responded so far. All of your information and advice has been invaluable.



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Old Sep 11th, 2022, 10:23 AM
  #43  
 
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"Does it make sense to try and visit Mull for a day from Oban?"

I actually wished we had done that, but there were other considerations we had to take in effect since we didn't know how Kim would be after 2 1/2 weeks of traveling. As it turned out, he was fine. There was a day long tour to Mull we could have taken had we booked before. I believe you would like that much better than a day in Oban.
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Old Sep 11th, 2022, 10:46 AM
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The drive times you're citing look to be from Google Maps and are therefore (IMO) not especially trustworthy. I'd mentally add at least 20% to the Google estimates, and that could be conservative where single-track roads are involved, or when transiting urban areas.

As I said before, my preference would be Mull over Skye; mainly due to the relative proximity of other interesting and/or beautiful places close by, even though the islands themselves are nearly equal in appeal (to me, maybe not everyone.) But this is really your call; you're the ones setting priorities and following your own passions, just as it should be.

If it were me, I'd shorten the stay in Crail to one, or probably zero nights, and turn the East Neuk into a day trip, maybe part of a loop of Fife that includes St Andrews and Falkland, which IMO is often overlooked and is a real gem. Falkland Palace has lovely gardens and also some impressive ruins, and despite its prominent role in Outlander, the village is less impacted by tourists than the East Neuk villages (Crail in particular) and St. Andrews. Falkland would also offer relatively easy access to the A9 northbound as you travel to Nairn. I'd also recommend - if interested - a short detour to Fortingall en route. This is a picturesque and quite historic village in the Perthshire highlands, at the mouth of Glen Lyon, one of the most beautiful glens in the country. A yew tree in the Fortingall churchyard is reputed to be the oldest living thing in Europe, and legend has it that Fortingall was the birthplace of Pontius Pilate, during Rome's unsuccessful attempt to colonize Scotland. There's an incredibly scenic old bridge up Glen Lyon from Fortingall, called a "Roman" bridge, but it isn't that old. Google the places on this map - https://goo.gl/maps/GoniRViHXkVYnMJT6

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Old Sep 11th, 2022, 11:02 AM
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Just a couple of quick comments til later this afternoon . . .

"I will also include Google drive times, which may not be accurate but it's all I have right now. So please comment how accurate or inaccurate they are."

You'll want to add between 20% and close to 50% to most of those drive times Especially in the most rural areas which is the majority of your itinerary

"
Visit Stirling Castle on the way to Crail (or does it make sense to visit Stirling Castle at the end of our trip, on our way back to Edinburgh?) 1.5 hour drive from Stirling Castle to Crail."

Doesn't really make sense. Stirling is on your direct route from the west back to Edinburgh so leave it til then. I'd drive from Edinburgh directly into Fife. As much as I usually agree with Gardyloo, I wouldn't attempt Fife as a day trip from Edinburgh unelss that was your ONLY option. Just the basic loop drive say Edinburgh > Pittenweem > Anstruther > Crail > St Andrews > Falkland > Edinburgh would be 4+ hours. With any time in the fishing villages, 2 or 3 hours in St Andrews, a couple of hours at Falkland and you are talking a 13+ hour day and will have missed things like a boat trip out to the Isle of May etc. If it was me -- I'd stay a minimum of one night in Fife - or I wouldn't bother.

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Old Sep 11th, 2022, 11:31 AM
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I wasn't recommending it as a day loop from Edinburgh. I recommended it with one or more nights in Falkland, visiting the East Neuk and St. Andrews as a day trip, or maybe two separate day trips.
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Old Sep 11th, 2022, 12:54 PM
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Hi Karen

please skip Callender. It really isn’t the best our country has to offer.

From Portree you could take the Armadale ferry to Mallaig , drop in at Arisaig where the beaches and views are stunning. Drive to Glenuig then Acharacle and Kilchoan to spend a night in a B&B on Loch Sunart.

This area has the best wildlife spotting in the U.K.

if you afford a day in this area , there are some beautiful isolated beaches in this area which will be deserted and take some effort (30 to 90 minute walk) - all flat. certainly no crowds like Skye - too much effort for the crowds.

From Kilchoan take the 20 minute ferry to Tobermory, drive via Calgary Bay and the epic Loch Na Keal to Ffionphort, spend the two nights on Iona including a trip to see the puffins and Fingals Cave.

Take the ferry from Craignure to Oban.

EAT AT EE-USK - on Oban’s harbour, ask for a window table, some of the best seafood in the world, the platter is epic.

If you can make it to Talisker on Skye - my favourite drink in the world.

From Tobermory there are boat trips to see the sea life of the inner Hebrides - the basking sharks should be around (20 - 30ft long) - majestic sight.

I whole heartedly agree with Gardyloo’s sentiments on Mull - magical place to the visitor numbers are regulated by ferry capacities.

Last edited by BritishCaicos; Sep 11th, 2022 at 01:21 PM.
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Old Sep 11th, 2022, 01:17 PM
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Gruezi

here’s my photo looking back at you !



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Old Sep 11th, 2022, 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Gardyloo
I wasn't recommending it as a day loop from Edinburgh. I recommended it with one or more nights in Falkland, visiting the East Neuk and St. Andrews as a day trip, or maybe two separate day trips.
Oh -- I completely misunderstood your post -- I thought you were recommending doing Fife as a day trip from Edinburgh. Staying in Falkland, or St Andrews, or Crail et al . . . any would work and be a decent base for all of them

Originally Posted by BritishCaicos
Hi Karen
please skip Callender. It really isn’t the best our country has to offer . . .
Callander is just one option -- one could stay anywhere w/i a 10 or 15 mile radius. That area is convenient for: Stirling Castle, Doune Castle, Inchmahome Priory, Queen Elizabeth Forest Park, Loch Lomond, several other pretty lochs/waterfalls, and within easy reach of either GLA or EDI unless the flight out is super early in the AM.

I agree with Gardyloo and BC that if it was me and I only had time for one, I'd do Mull instead of Skye. Skye is on every American's (those visiting Scotland anyway) must/bucket list. Skye has all the publicity and therefore all the crowds. The one saving grace is you are traveling after the May Bank holidays and before the schools let out in late July so Skye will only be crowded - not CROWDED. Don't get me wrong - Skye is an amazing place - but it was soooo much easier/better 15 or 20 years ago - before all the TV and film connections drew too many people for too little infrastructure.
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Old Sep 11th, 2022, 03:26 PM
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how long does it take by taxi to get from the airport to downtown Edinburgh?
20 minutes either by taxi or the frequent express bus (#100 “Airlink”), or there’s tram that takes about 30 minutes. It’s the only tram in town.

There’s a shopping mall (Gyle) by the Marriott at the first tram/bus stop from the airport for a fast meal, I wouldn’t go all the way into town for a meal.
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Old Sep 11th, 2022, 03:40 PM
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For a stay in or near Callander I was thinking something like one of these:

https://www.romancamphotel.co.uk
https://karmagroup.com/find-destinat...e-of-menteith/
https://www.lubnaigguesthouse.com
https://www.macdonaldhotels.co.uk/fo...-hotel-spa-gmb
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Old Sep 11th, 2022, 05:10 PM
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As this is your first trip to Scotland, be aware of this common sign on the trunk highways

https://www.alamy.com/aggregator-api...oad-H8HAW5.jpg

and how are you going to respond. My closest approximation to an American highway sign equivalent is “one lane bridge.”
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Old Sep 11th, 2022, 05:38 PM
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Now you're just trying to scare them
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Old Sep 11th, 2022, 06:21 PM
  #54  
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Thank you so much to everyone who has replied. I have no doubt that all of your suggestions are wonderful and would give us a beautiful and memorable trip. The problem is that we obviously don't have the time to see everything in just 16 nights. I will look at your suggestions more closely and at my map in the next couple of days. But in the meantime, I have a few questions/comments assuming I don't alter my itinerary too much.

Janisj, when you say it takes less than an hour to drive from Callander to Edinburgh Airport and that Stirling is less than 40 minutes, does that take into account commuter morning traffic? Unless flight schedules change, I think our flight would be around 10AM or noon. In that case, would it still make sense to overnight in Callander or Stirling (instead of Edinburgh) the night before our departure?

While Gardyloo's suggestions sound great re Falkland, I think I prefer staying in Crail because we love fishing villages and the coastal ambience. We might still have time to visit Falkland Castle (which sounds wonderful), depending on how our sightseeing is going. Thanks for the video of the "Roman" bridge. It looks beautiful!

Regarding Oban and Mull: Per google maps, it takes 2 hours to drive from Oban to Stirling. So if I add 20% to the driving time, that would be about 2.5 hours. So if we leave Oban in the morning, we could get to Stirling Castle in time for an afternoon visit, which is a must. It is one of my husband's few requests. And if I feel comfortable spending the night in Stirling the day before our flight, that is what we would do.

But now I am not sure we really have the time visit Mull and do it justice. Seems like a wonderful place where we would actually want to stay on Mull for a few nights. I am wondering if I should omit Oban and Mull from this trip. We do hope to combine a re-visit to London (haven't been there since the 70's) with a journey through northern England. We have only visited London in England, nowhere else. So a future trip could be London/northern England/ and a return to Scotland with a proper visit to Mull and the Borders. Just thinking out loud. We also hope to be able to travel for a month at a time starting in 2024. We have some constraints for 2023.

I do want to visit Skye on this trip. It is one of my priorities, and we will be there after the May holidays and before school summer vacation so I am not too concerned about the crowds.

We are interested in some boat trips to see dolphins and other sea life. Are the waters typically rough? I am prone to seasickness, unfortunately. Will definitely have to bring dramamine with me!

Thank you!

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Old Sep 11th, 2022, 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by janisj
Now you're just trying to scare them
Well, while visiting Costa Rica, we did drive over a very narrow wooden bridge with good-size gaping holes! My husband had to dodge the holes in the bridge! No exaggeration!
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Old Sep 11th, 2022, 08:43 PM
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Just two comments:

On the Skye vs. Mull -- or -- Skye and Mull issue. From the get go I felt you simply don't have time for both and I could tell you really wanted to visit Skye. Which is why I didn't mention Mull up top. As often happens on here - with the many Scotland fans -- we want everyone to see what we personally love. But no matter how long one has, they can't see even close to everything. You've received recommendations for Mull, and Fortingall, and Ullapool and the far north, and the borders/Tweed and more. All of these are great (as are several other regions like the far southwest). But the more places we throw out there, the more confusing/overwhelming it can get. Wherever you go it will be wonderful, and scenic, and fun, and memorable -- so don't even think what you are missing and just enjoy where you do go. IMHO no matter how awesome Mull is, trying to fit it in just complicates things and takes away form other priorities. If it was my trip -- I'd do Mull, but since it is your trip . . . forget about Mull, do Skye instead (just Skye) and love every minute of it.

And where to stay the last night. Don't make any decisions til you have your flight times. With the understanding that in general the morning commute traffic tends to be quite a bit later in the UK than back home. With say a 10AM flight and wanting to be at EDI by 0730-ish I'd not have any concerns with driving in from Callander or Stirling. Stirling is just under 30 miles from the airport and it is motorway the entire distance. At 6AM it would barely take 30 minutes, 40 mins if you are unlucky. Later in the morning there would be heavier traffic and it would take longer. Callander is about 40 miles from EDI and at that time of the morning would take about 55-60 mins Main difference being the first 10 or 11 miles is not motorway.
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Old Sep 11th, 2022, 08:48 PM
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And BTW if you find flights with better fares/schedules in/out of GLA -- drive times from either Stirling or Callander would only be 5-10 minutes longer
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Old Sep 14th, 2022, 02:55 PM
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Oh I'm so excited you're going to Scotland next year Karen! You've already gotten plenty of suggestions, plus I know you read my trip report and know my highlights, so I won't offer itinerary opinions. Like janisj said, it will be beautiful wherever you go! I'm looking forward to following along with your planning and eventually reading your trip report.

I'm headed back to Spain next spring (Barcelona, Costa Brava, Mallorca). I'll have to re-read your trip report from when you visited the Costa Brava. There aren't many Fodorites that respond to questions about that area.



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Old Sep 14th, 2022, 07:01 PM
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memejs, I am seriously considering what Janisj suggested in her last post - dropping Mull/Oban from our itinerary because I don't want to rush through Mull and the Oban area. I'd rather wait until we can return and spend more time in Mull/Oban and do it justice. I can't make a final decision until we make our airline reservations and know what time our flight departs Edinburgh. I will post my final (hopefully final) itinerary at that time. I really enjoyed your trip report and your photos.

You might already know this but my screen name when we visited Barcelona and Costa Brava was kwoo. So you need to search that name to find my report. You will love that part of Spain!
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