Leen,

I came across this apartment in Monti and thought you might like to see the reviews. Several are from first time visitors to Rome:

http://www.tripadvisor.com/VacationR...o.html#REVIEWS

I hope to stay in Monti for my next (but not yet booked) trip to Rome, so have been compiling notes and info I've stumbled upon. Here's a good entry from food blogger Katie Parla.

http://www.parlafood.com/eating-and-drinking-in-monti/

As I have not yet stayed there I can't comment much on the area, but since we are talking Monti I thought I'd share.

jmct,

There is another food writer in Rome who lives in Monti, so you might want to have her take too:

http://www.elizabethminchilliinrome....to-eat_21.html

And for the record, this is her description of Mont -- like I said, from a resident of Rome:

"Monti is the tiny neighborhood in Rome, tucked into the area between Via Cavour and Via Nazionale. Although Monti is not 'on the way' to anywhere, it is very centrally located. There are no big streets running through it, just around it. So it not only feels like a neighborhood, it is one in every sense of the word. When I moved here twenty years ago there were still a lot of artisans renting ground floor spaces. While many have had to leave, forced out by high rent, there are a handful left. And the stores and restaurants that have replaced them have given Monti a new - yet still authentic - feel."

Okay, I may be starting another small battle here but could anyone tell me about the Villa Borghese area? We may want to use some of our Hilton points and stay there but we have similar attitudes as Leen and want a more neighborhood feel for our first time trip. My husband and I will be going to Italy in July.
Thanks so much.

OK--I'll sdd a new idea. We stayed in the San Lorenzo district (near the University) on our first trip to Rome (first trip to Europe) 13 years ago and loved it so much that we are headed back for the third time. It is a bit out of the way--but three of our top five all time travel stories are about experiences and restaurants in this area. It actually shows up in some guidebooks now, especially for the restaurants.

Welcome, Leen! Just found this thread and am wondering about the area around Piazza Cavour. I am not familiar with the Airb&b's so this may be of no help. We stayed in Hotel Isa ( http://www.hotelisa.net/hotel-isa-ro...ican-city.html ) and loved the area.

Major bus lines at nearby Piazza Cavour and it was an easy walk over to Piazza Navona. We had not discovered the tram system at that point, so you might want to google a map of that--easier to navigate than bus IMO. But that was on our 3rd visit to Rome so we were a bit more familiar with the city at that point.

Good luck and have a wonderful trip. Please do a trip report when you are finished--maybe you can help settle some of the differences of opinion. :-d

MountainMomma you may get more responses if you begin your own thread with "Villa Borghese area" in the title.

MountainMomma,

I agree with jamerein that you should start your own thread, but when you do, you should specify which "side" of the Borghese area that you are talking about. It is quite a large circle and, for instance, the area nearest the Spanish Steps is quite commercialized for tourism, and some other streets have lots of embassies. If you have a specific apartment or hotel you are looking at, include what street it on in your question.

Another think you might do is look up a couple of the hotels in that area on TripAdvisor and read the reviews. Often people comment on the feel of a neighborhood, and whether they found easy transportation connections to things they wanted to do and see.

PS: MommaMomma,

About the battle, you can just ignore people who show up in your new thread to tell you that you shouldn't care if you are in a tourist neighborhood (even though you are the one paying for this trip.) I've said all I'm going to say on this subject, except to momentarily applaud you for wanting to experience the actual Rome not the Fodorite Rome, which is a packaged abbreviation of the actual Rome, less complete, with less flavor.

Thanks so much Zeppole for the information, and I might do this but now I am strongly considering the Monti area of Rome. We definitely will not have the packaged trip as we'll be out of the cities for a good amount of time, and we'll be on our own doing our own thing.
Thanks to you as well, Jamerin.

I've been to Rome yet again and still have not stayed in Monti (couldn't find an apartment that suited us in the area). However, we did stumble through several times on our last trip, including once for dinner at the DELICIOUS Asino d'Oro. I am posting here to recommend it.

To Leen: Coincidentally, my sister and I were in our mid-30s--I think I was just 34 but maybe exactly 35---several years ago when we first "discovered" Monti and agreed that we wanted to stay there. Different strokes and all, but at that time I found it much hipper (not at all edgy, though, fear not) than the very central part of the center. But San Lorenzo is good for that vibe too.

Wherever you stay, enjoy Rome.

Hi Leen! I am also visiting Rome in August and I am also searching for the good neighborhood there. Well as far as the areas are suggested I also find good reviews about your mentioned areas and I have looked for one apartment as well form the agency I rented for my Paris visit.
I have chosen http://www.lodjee.com/mantellate-stu...rome-apartment in Trastevere and I found that it is near to Piazza Navona and St. Peter's Square as well and is having fairly less distance from the historic places as well. Moreover the rent is also an attractive part besides being in such a good location.
You can have a look and if seems good to you then can rent it for your visit and then surely send me the reviews about it so as to confirm it for my visit next to you in August ;)

Another thing to consider is your own strengths as visitors. If one of you has an infallible sense of direction or speaks a fair amount of the language, then anywhere within your budget would work for you. I do not have a good sense of direction and although my Italian is sufficient to understand simple directions, I prefer the Campo de' Fiori/Jewish ghetto area because it's easy for me to find my way on foot or with good information from the concierge about public transportation to any of the places I want to visit.

In any case, I don't like to be dependent on cabs or to be in a neighborhood that shuts down early. If I've had a long day sightseeing and it's late on a warm night, I can stroll over to Piazza Navona for a light supper and watch the world go by. The ghetto restaurants are open on days when other restaurants are closed, so that's a bonus, too.

We have been to Rome twice. The first time we were there for a week and stayed in an apartment near the Vatican. It was a nice location, however, I felt that other then the day we went to the Vatican, we spent way too much time riding the subway back and forth across the river to get to other sights. So for that reason I would suggest staying on the side of the river opposite from the Vatican. Last year we were there for only 3 days and stayed in the Hotel Nerva. It is right across the street from the Forum and very convenient to our meeting place for our Tour of the Forum. We booked a tour with "From here to Eternity." There were restaurants nearby within walking distance and the hotel recommened a fun restaurant near the Pantheon. Do be prepared for hot weather. Both times we were there - May and Sept. it was extremely hot. If you are looking for an apartment we've had good luck with VRBO in several places. Do try to fit in the Borgese Gallery. It is an outstanding museum as well as the National Museum.

zeppole, do you own Italy or something? Does it ever ever occur to you that your opinion of something is simply YOUR opinion??

I've been to Rome at least 10 times in the last 40 years. Among other areas I have stayed are the areas near the RR, the Pizza della Republica, Pantheon, Trastevere, and most recently the Via dei Coronari. When we return, we hope to stay in the same pension on VdC, if we can.

And if it helps to know, we are one-small-suitcase-each travelers who use public transportation whenever possible. I speak Italian. I have twice visited my relatives in a tiny out-of-the-way mountain village. I'm not exactly an Italy novice...but I don't consider myself an expert, as you seem to consider yourself. However, unlike you, I do consider my opinion as valid as anybody else's.

"actual Rome not the Fodorite Rome"

By definition, there simply is no way that a traveler can experience "actual" any city in that first visit. And "Fodorite" Rome is pretty special. Things are touristy because they are popular. They're a gift and a curse I suppose, but no need to sneer about them.

Now if you want to splurge, stay at Raphael:

http://www.raphaelhotel.com/index.html

We've been to Rome 4 times. Our last visit was 10 days long, and we took our son. To save money, while still having a prime location, we rented an apt about a block from the Trevi Fountain. It was fantastic! Close to a metro stop and walking distance to virtually everything. Here's the link- http://www.casatrevi.it/home_en.htm . The owner is really helpful. She will arrange transport to and from airport if you wish and provides lots of good recommendations. Wherever you stay, get a place close to a metro stop and buy a pass. The metro is easy to use and allows you to get almost anywhere without too much walking.

I've said all I'm going to say on this subject,>>

LucieV,

I think I am an expert in the kind of travel that seeks to avoid touristy spots, and in avoiding places altered by mass tourism.

TDudette,

Rick Steves couldn't make the fortune he has selling books called "Rick Steves' Italy" if there wasn't a parallel universe of tourism that you can go to as a tourist and not the actual universe. I simply don't know what to say to people who cannot tell the difference between a genuine experince of a place and a packaged one. I gather nothing I say will change that worldview. You apparently think it is scientifically based as well as enjoyable. Nobody asked you to leave Fodorite Rome. The question was from somebody who never wants to go there. Why begrudge her a truthful answer from someone who knows what she is talking about? If she had asked to go to Botswana, you wouldn't have answered since you've never been. Why answer here?

annhg,

They changed the subject.

poetess,

I have yet to encounter the Roman neighborhood that shuts down early.

zeppole, you may think so. But you really need to know the truth: you're not. Not by a long shot. With all due respect, of course.

"The question was from somebody who never wants to go there.----------------------But this thread is for mostly first-time travelers who DO!

"I think I am an expert in the kind of travel that seeks to avoid touristy spots, and in avoiding places altered by mass tourism." ------------Zepp, you just reminded me of my first husband. He was stationed in England for quite a few years. On my first visit to London, I expressed my desire to see Westminster Abbey. He poo-pooed it and said that St. Paul's was much more significant. I was fortunate enough to return years later and saw that most touristy Abbey and other spots that he felt weren't significant enough.

And who said anything about Rick Steves in this thread?

Leen, if you are still around, again, please let us know all about your trip and enjoy it very much. Zepp gives good advice but doesn't allow for the also valid opinions of others.

TDudette,

Do you know the term "straw man"? That is what you are doing here. You are changing the subject and ceating a straw man to argue with.

Even the OP stated I understood her request. Leen said right up front they wanted to visit the tourist sights in Rome BUT they didn't want to lodge in area that was tourist-dominated. I never once suggest she not see the sights she wants to see. I suggested two areas where she would have great access to major famous sights but not be in a touristy area. I did NOT "sneer" once at the desire to see the famous sights of ROme.

What happened was predictable. Fodorites came into this thread to sneer at the idea that you can escape tourist zones when you travel and telling Leen there was no benefit in traveling to Rome that way. They told her not to listen to advice like that but to stay near the piazza Navona or the Spanish Steps telling her that's what she wanted despite what she just said.

I think worse than have little respoct for someone else's opinion is having no respect for another person's travels values and telling them to quit listening to people who do.

LucieV , as for whether I am an expert in avoiding tourists, on Fodor's the one-eyed-man in this regard gets to be a king. Only on Fodor's would somebody post that "By definition, there simply is no way that a traveler can experience "actual" any city in that first visit." -- and not get a chorus of laughter in return.

Is Tdudette serious? She can't walk into a city and tell the difference between the tourists areas and the non tourist areas? She can't see what is the actual everyday life of the city apart from what has been developed to attract tourist dollars?

Nope, she can't, and neither can most people posting on Fodor's because that isn't what they want to see when they travel. They want the tourist experience. They can't advise somebody who wants more than that because they don't know what it is. I do.

PS: If you think you know what it is, why don't you help Leen instead of attacking me?

Zep - I think by definition you are a Fodorite as much as the rest of us.

You say people sneered at the OP (I didnt) but you sneered at all of us. And do on any occasion you disagree. You can get your point across and provide your great advice without insulting people and putting people down. Your advice would add so much more if it didnt come with the sarcasm and putdowns of people just trying to provide their own valid opinions.

Everyone's experience is a valid one, whether you see it as Fodors Rome or not. I certainly dont think my trip to Rome was - hey, we barely stepped foot in a museum or church! But I wouldnt encourage everyone to skip the magnificence of the museums or churches in Rome. I also know as a first timer to Rome we stayed in a neighbourhood out of centre and greatly regretted it as we werent comfortable taking the metro at night, we generally couldnt afford taxis and wished we had been closer in so that we could have walked around to see the lights at night and have a late night drink in a piazza all lit up and felt comfortable getting home. This is something we hadnt thought of - so my sharing it isnt sneering at the OP, its just providing my experience and giving them something to think about that they might not have.

Cant we all just give our own opinions and disagree without all the nastiness?

What jamikins says. Amen.

Last year we stayed in an awesome apartment (and will be returning there again in September) located in the far south end of Trastevere. We were able to get public transportation less than a block away and getting to the city center and everywhere else was quite easy. A cab stand was just a few blocks away as well. We loved the area and did plenty of walking around at night. The apartment has a spectacular outdoor space too. Drop me an email if you would like the contact info. We did write a trip report also. Happy Travels....wish I was in Rome right now! 166 days and counting down.

David and I rented a three bedroom/two bathroom penthouse apartment (with elevator) last spring in the Monte Verde area just beyond Trastevere. We absolutely loved the apartment and the price (I think it was €100 a night), but being out of the pandemonium of central Rome was the best part. The tram, that whisked us into the center in about ten minutes, was literally right outside our front door so we easily saw all the sites we'd come to see.

But we loved starting the day at the huge, hundred-or-so-stalls-market next door to our apartment where we sampled foods we otherwise would not have tried, and ending the day by getting take-out lasagne from Frontoni's across the street. Toni's, with some of the best gelato in the city was a few doors away.

We originally worried that we'd miss all the action by not being in the heart of the city, but we were delighted with our choice. After a day being crowded off the city sidewalks, it was a pleasure to return to our little neighborhood for true Italian hospitality.

Here's the link to our apartment http://www.vrbo.com/282276 More information about our trip, the apartment, and apartment photos are at Tightwad Travel.

Tightwadtravel3r, that apt. looks fabulous!

LuvToRoam, do you have a link?

Buongiorno Leen. Don't sweat the traveler arguments. Everybody is a star, their shine is just different from mine. Many good recommendations between the other stuff here. I'm not an expert, been to Rome twice. I love the Corso/Spagna area, but had two loud lodging experiences. I think north of Piazza del Popolo would be a great location. Easy to walk anywhere or jump on the metro. Trastevere is cute, but stay away from the party bar street (use Google Map and you can find these). Piazza Navona itself is very touristy, but between there and the river is really really nice, though probably pricey, is my guess. There are so many awesome (honestly) churches right around Navona I would love to stay around there if I could find a quiet apartment. (Read up on Bernini and Borromini, seriously.) Monti, I'm not familiar with. Check out Eleonora's "Roma Every Day" photo blog for some views of different areas. Wear good walking shoes and walk walk walk. Get lost in the streets (though I'm addicted to Streetwise maps). Above all: have fun!

Centro and the area near the Colosseum and Roman Forum would be the best option for sightseeing. However, if you want to experience the local character of Rome I would highly recommend the Trastevere area.