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Old Jun 26th, 2012, 07:44 PM
  #21  
kja
 
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> The Alpujarras look like a nice possibility for hiking & Capileira looks charming (I google imaged it). Are there lots of good trails to hike? Would you do that again?

Yes, there are lots of great hiking trails in the area, and they offer some stunning views. I believe you can also go horseback riding and otherwise enjoy the outdoors in this area. I am definitely glad I spent some time there - it was a lovely counterpoint to other parts of Andalucia. Capileira is one of several very small towns in the Poqueira Gorge, each of which held some tourist infrastructure and touristy-shops, but also - at least in 2004 - had sections that seemed reasonably untouched. The down-side was the terrifying bus ride to get there. From a previous thread:

kja on Aug 4, 10 at 5:19pm
... I really enjoyed a night in Capileira in Las Alpujarras. The bus ride to get there (from Granada) was terrifying, with a seemingly endless stretch of blind, sharply switchbacking curves, but the area is lovely IMO. I'm not sure one can really experience "village life" there, but it might be worth considering.

weber6560 on Aug 4, 10 at 5:50pm
kja: scariest road I have ever been on.

lincasanova on Aug 4, 10 at 5:57pm
My aunt wouldn't even get out of the car to be in the picture at a picturesque spot.!LOL!

kja on Aug 4, 10 at 6:57pm
weber6560 and lincasanova - so glad it wasn't just me! At first, I thought I was really lucky because I had gotten the front seat on the right-hand side of the bus. But that just meant that I felt like I was hanging off the road on many of those turns! I kept telling myself to go ahead and look because the scenery was stunning and if I was to die, I might as well enjoy the view, but every time I looked, it was so frightening that I reflexively turned away. And as though the road wasn't bad enough, my driver on the way in played really irritating music at full volumn and spent most of the trip talking - with his hands. I wondered whether I could bring myself to board the bus when it was time to leave, or whether I'd have to choose between hiking out or moving in!


BTW, the ride out was much less terrifying. And I don't think that was entirely due to the large (very large!) glass of beer I had before boarding. I chose a seat part-way back and this driver seemed much more attentive to the road, which makes sense because drivers do generally have more control going up than coming down.
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Old Jun 27th, 2012, 03:28 AM
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Perfect to swim in Nerja late May early June. Expect sea temp at some 70F.

I had some great swims here in late March this year, but I'm Norwegian...

And if you want a hotel with a pool (roof-top with sea and mountain-view), Mena's brand new offspring Mena Plaza is just around the corner. 62€ for a double in May/June: http://www.booking.com/hotel/es/mena-plaza.en.html
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Old Jun 27th, 2012, 03:58 AM
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...and nine small and large beaches among the cliffs in Nerja. My favourite is somewhat hidden El Salón just in front of Mena: http://www.nerjatoday.com/nerjabeachguide/el-salon/
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Old Jun 27th, 2012, 05:58 AM
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I have read a lot about that the town of Nerja does not have any sewage treatment works. Thus the sewage is pumped straight out into the sea untreated. I would not recommend anyone to swim in raw sewage.
http://www.typicallyspanish.com/news...le_34910.shtml
http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/ShowTop...Andalucia.html

The dangers of swimming in raw sewage.
http://bit.ly/MWD6zH
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Old Jun 27th, 2012, 06:35 AM
  #25  
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kja - thanks for the heads up on the bus trip to Capileira. That may put a kabosh on that plan for me. I was on a bus up to the top of a mountain in Bavaria a couple of summers ago & literaly got sick to my stomach just looking out at the view. I had no idea I could be affected until that ride. By some of the comments in that tread you provided, the Capileira bus trip sounds worse than what I did. I'm thinking a large beer wouldn't be enough for me! LOL.

TonyBishop & kimhe - looks like I won't be swimming in the Med. I'm definitely not Norwegian as I won't go into the ocean off the Mid Atlantic coast (Maryland) until after July 4th & even then it's still too cool for me. I was hoping the Med might warm up faster. A shame as El Salon looks lovely.

ribeirasacra - thanks for the warning. I don't think I care for raw sewage!

kimhe - the Mena Plaza's pool looks wonderful. And, the rates are great too. That could be a winner for me. Thanks!
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Old Jun 27th, 2012, 07:01 AM
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From May 29th to June 12th this year we flew to Malaga, took the train to Seville, then the train to Cordoba, train to Malaga and a local bus to Nerja. Our timing was 4 nights Seville, 3 nights Cordoba and a week on the beach in Nerja.

The train journey from Malaga to Seville was wonderful, part of it through a national park. We were glad we didn't take the fastest train. For us, Seville was uncomfortably hot for moving around to see all we wanted to see (and we LOVE heat). If you stay in the centre, I think you can see the main sights in a couple days. Also, in the end, it is a big city and feels like a big city.

The train journey to Cordoba is quick and easy (excellent service and very comfortable). We could have spent longer in Cordoba...it is smaller and easier to move around with lots of small wonders. If we had had the time we would have taken the bus to the Medina outside town, but really it probably deserves most of a day, so we will return to beautiful Cordoba again.

Again we enjoyed our train journy to Malaga, a lovely small city I have visited before. If you like good food and architecture both Cordoba and Malaga are wonderful places to spend time.

I was in Rhonda many years ago, stunning but based on my experience, the real beauty of a city is Granada. We spent a week in Granada last year and would happily return tomorrow! We visited the Alhambra twice so we could really get a feel for the gardens and architecture. The tapas culture is slightly different in Granada, really larger portions like eating a generous course in each bar, or just sitting in one and eating all sorts of delightful things. Most of the serious eating seems to be done indoors rather than outside. The buzz of conversation is more like an old fashioned Irish pub, before sports tv took over from conversation.

Having more time in Granada we found all sorts of interesting things: a science and technology centre, art exhibits, convents that bake biscuits, it goes on. It really helped us understand the Moorish history in particular, making our trip this year much more informed. Oh yes, and did I mention the food! The Moorish influence on the food was a revelation, yum. Do try it all! Oh and look out for the Sephardic Jewish restaurant in Cordoba, very close to the Synogogue, delightful.
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Old Jun 27th, 2012, 09:44 AM
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Maybe not Nerja if you're really into swimming. The views of the Med are beautiful though.
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Old Jun 27th, 2012, 07:48 PM
  #28  
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> thanks for the heads up on the bus trip to Capileira. That may put a kabosh on that plan for me. I was on a bus up to the top of a mountain in Bavaria a couple of summers ago & literaly got sick to my stomach just looking out at the view. I had no idea I could be affected until that ride. By some of the comments in that tread you provided, the Capileira bus trip sounds worse than what I did. I'm thinking a large beer wouldn't be enough for me! LOL.

It's worth keeping in mind that the bus makes this trip about 3 times a day, every day - a thought I tried to keep in focus on that trip! I suspect that I would have found the trip much more bearable if I hadn't had that front right seat with virtually nothing to block the spectacular (and terrifying) views over the road's edge. Had I been further back, looking out rather than down, or even not looking, I would probably have found it much more manageable. And a manual transmission - as this bus had - does give the driver more control when going uphill than my head registered. And for all I know, there were mirrors or other ways for the driver to know what was coming - I've certainly experienced that as a driver elsewhere. And one more thought: You could stay at one of the villages below Capileira, which would drastically reduce the part of the ride that is on the scary side. One of my hikes was down into the valley and back up; you could instead climb up and then down. So don't give up on this area just because of the ride!
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Old Jun 27th, 2012, 11:14 PM
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Regarding beaches in Nerja:

In all of the Málaga region there were eight top quality rankning beaches (the Q-mark set up by the Calidad Turística Española (ICTE) bureau) by 2008. Two of the nine beaches in Nerja with this distinction as well as with the international Blue Flag based on criteria dealing with water quality, environmental management, safety and services.
http://www.spainaway.com/nerja-beach-guide.html

By 2011, four of the nine beaches in Nerja has got the international Blue Flag award.
http://www.andalucia.com/beaches/blueflag/beaches.htm

Nine beaches in Nerja, from large Burriana and Torecilla beaches with all services to small and sheltered hide-aways among the cliffs. About the Blue flag award. http://www.andalucia.com/beaches/blueflag/home.htm
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Old Jun 28th, 2012, 03:55 AM
  #30  
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JanieMac - thank you so much for your comments. I have read so many posts that Seville has so much to offer it deserves a week. You've given me a different perspective & likely more compatible to my traveling style. "in the end, it is a big city and feels like a big city." I seem to like visiting big cities on winter trips to Europe but during my summer trips I enjoy smaller cities & towns where I can feel more connected to enjoy the out of doors during good weather. Based upon your comments I'll likely take days away from Seville, add one to Cordoba & 2 to Granada. The reason I have chosen Andalucia as a destination is that I want to experience the Moorish culture, gardens, architecture & history. It looks to be fascinating & so different from elsewhere in Europe. And, thanks for the Shepardish Jewish restaurant recommendation. I'm always on the search for good & different food experiences.

Egbert - that's the reason I'm considering Nerja as opposed to Malaga. The photos of the coast look just gorgeous.

kja - thanks for the words of reassurance & suggestion to stay in a valley village. However, I'm not sure you have me convinced. (My heart says go for it, my stomach says NOT!) I imagine I will whimp out & stay in Rhonda instead.

kimhe - thank you for the additional information on the Blue Flag status of Nerja beaches. You've made me feel much better about dipping my feet in the Med. (I'll stick with a pool though for swimming as the Med will be just too cold for me to enjoy.) I'm a whimp on cold water too!
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Old Jun 28th, 2012, 06:23 AM
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There is an alternative point of view to that posed by kimhe. Read these. I will leave it up to you to decide.

http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/ShowTop...Andalucia.html

http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/ShowTop...Andalucia.html

On blue flags - see the post by NoSoyGuiri.
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Old Jun 28th, 2012, 06:24 AM
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Oops. http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/ShowTop...Andalucia.html
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Old Jun 28th, 2012, 08:15 AM
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Dee-dee In Ronda we stayed at hotel Don Miguel. Its possible to get a room over the gorge with stunning views much like those from the Parador. Not overly expensive either.
See the pic gallery on their website.

http://www.dmiguel.com/en/galerias.php

Click on views from the air.
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Old Jun 28th, 2012, 10:38 AM
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You're right Tony, the Nerja sewage plant project seems to be "a never-ending story", and everyone local are furious, totally desilluionised, laughing or all. But the sewage goes out way off the beaches, and Nerja is a major beach destination for a reason. I keep swimming in the, at least by apparance, crystal clear water with a light heart and my mind elsewhere.
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Old Jun 28th, 2012, 03:05 PM
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And bacteria are very small.
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Old Jun 28th, 2012, 04:58 PM
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Be advised: if you are relying on public transportation (trains and buses)be sure to study the routes and schedules ahead of time. Not all cities are connected. Madrid serves as a hub. We made that mistake and ended up renting a car between Toledo and Granada in order to not have to train back to Madrid, endure a long layover, and another fairly long ride. Also, I agree with the posters who commented on the similarity of city sites. The Moorish influence is definitely worth seeing/studying but I found that I tired of it after a couple of cities. Enjoy your trip!
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Old Jun 28th, 2012, 09:53 PM
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"I keep swimming in the, at least by apparance, crystal clear water with a light heart and my mind elsewhere."
kimhe, you may have a coping strategy for swimming in the sea at Nerja but it is important to remember that you don´t have to be surrounded by turds for the water to be unsafe. Hence my comment that bacteria are very small.

In other words, the raw sewage doesn´t have to be visible in order for the water to be unsafe for swimming. So, by all means carry on swimming, but I would try to avoid encouraging others to follow suit if I were you.

"Nerja is a major beach destination for a reason."
Spanish people who live locally know all about the sewage problem at Nerja and they never swim in the sea there. In the Andalucían village where I live, all the Spanish people I know laugh at the idea of swimming in the sea at Nerja.

Foreign tourists are another matter. Most foreign visitors to Nerja, unfortunately, do not read Spanish well enough to read the newspapers. Even if they did, the newspapers don´t carry a story about the sewage every day.

Dee_Dee, you have been warned. What you do with that information is up to you.
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Old Jun 29th, 2012, 12:12 AM
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In a past life I was a water engineer. Believe me you do not want to be in contact with raw sewage, even if it is diluted a bit. Working in sewage treatment plants or walking down large swage pipes meant I had to have regular medical checkups to ensure my health...my sanity is a different matter!
As for the blue flag thing. This is not only related to water quality facilities come into the equation too. One word of caution is that recently monitoring of these beaches was changed. It used to be done independently, but now the local council does it. There is a far great risk of figures being “manipulated”.
Last year in Galicia there was an oil spill. Not a large one but they closed off the beach for only a week and a bit. Personally I do not believe you can get a beach from blue flag status down to polluted and back in just 14 days.
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Old Jun 29th, 2012, 12:25 AM
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Video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XosuWWRXUUI
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Old Jun 29th, 2012, 02:50 AM
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http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowTopic...Andalucia.html
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