Need Advice on First Leg of Trip - Provence
 

First leg of our three week trip. Want all your expertise advice on the following days. What days are we packing in too much? What days do we have room for more? Advice? Comments? All your comments are very much appreciated. Our trip is going to be so much more fantastic and rewarding because of all your advice. Thanks to all ahead of time.


Fly in to either Paris or Marseille on Saturday and head to Avignon. Have nothing planned for the rest of Saturday. Stay up as late as we can and then get a good night sleep.

Sunday (rent car)
L’Isle sur la Sorge (morning market)
Roussillon
Gordes
Villages des Bories

Monday
Avignon
Palais des papes
Rocher des Domes
Place de L’Horloge
Pont St. Benezet
Vaison la Romaine
Pont du Gard

Tuesday
Nimes
Amphitheatre
Maison Carree
Arles

Wednesday
St. Remy (morning market)
Les Baux

Thursday
Aix-en-Provence or Marseille

Friday
Drive to Sarlat
(stopping at Carcissone on the way)

I don't know what time of year you're coming, but here you go...

You might be able to visit all that you want to see in Avignon on the afternoon of your arrival on Saturday, depending on what time you get there.

Sunday looks fine.

On Monday,scratch going to the Pont du Gard AND Vaison la Romaine. Too much driving back and forth. Add the Pont du Gard to Tuesday's schedule.

On Tuesday go to the Pont du Gard first, then to Nimes. I don't know how fast paced you go at the sightseeing, but Arles might be too much in the same day.

Wednesday - The market ends in St. Rémy around 1 PM, so you'd have time to visit Glanum and the Mausole de St Paul (Van Gogh's home away from home so to speak).
If you'd like to do Arles this day, I'd suggest going there early afternoon and save Les Baux for later in the day
(after 5PM), when it's quieter.

Patricia

There are several cute perched villages (Seguret, Sablet, Gigondas, etc.) on the way to Vaison that you might want to stop and stroll around and do at least one wine-tasting as long as you're in the area. We did a wine-tasting in Gigondas and so enjoyed their wines.

Enjoy!

Thank you for your input - sure is helping.

Patricia - we are going the first three weeks of September. I have added Gaum and Mausole de St. Paul to do on Wednesday. (Looked them up and GREAT advice.) I read that you can do ALres in 1/2 day so maybe we will leave Les Baux for dinner?? Would that be "do-able"?

Luvparee - I think we might add Vaison and the surrounding villages for the afternoon of Monday - hoping that we have already covered some of Avignon on Saturday afternoon and/or Sunday. Who could pass up great wineries?!

Thanks again. So much apprecaited.

eholden

Yes, you can visit Arles in about a half a day - the tourist office there (on the main street next to the Jules César hotel) has a great walking tour booklet in English. One of the few things they charge you for - 1€ and worth it.

There aren't any decent restaurants IN Les Baux, but you might want to splurge and dine at La Riboto de Taven. In the valley below Les Baux it has great views up to the village. Or you could visit Les Baux and then dine in nearby Maussane (where I live).

If you'd like the names of some restaurants in the area, let me know.

Patricia

Just my opinion, but also wanted to add that I'd agree you should visit some of the villages like Seguret. But frankly, Vaison does nothing for me and I don't know if I'd drive that far to see it.
I'd opt for some wine tasting in Gigondas, or Châteauneuf du Pape....

Patricia

In my opionion, you're seeing too many cities & village & not enough countryside.

Most stores will be closed in Avignon on Monday morning, and many will be closed in the afternoon also. Same with most non ultra-touristy cities & villages in France. You are also trying to do way too much on Monday.

I would rent the car on Saturday as late as possible, instead of on Sunday. You need to get to the l'Isle sur la Sorgue market by 8:30 on Sunday - in early Sept it will be a complete zoo after around 10:30. I doubt very much if you can pick up a car in Avignon & get to the market before 10:30 - not sure if the rental offices in Avignon proper will be open early on Sunday - you might have to take a taxi to the TGV offices outside of town. Check with AutoEurope. Also, depending on what time of day you plan to return the car, it won't cost you any more to pick it up late Sat than early Sun.

Avignon, Arles, and Nimes have a lot of similarities. I usually advise people to just visit one of the three. If you don't want to visit just one, I would choose Avignon & Arles (Nimes is more difficult to get in & out).

The medieval section of Vaison is quite interesting - the "newer" area where the Roman ruins are locatd, and where there are lots of outdoor cafes are not interesting, IMO. Quite often visitors explore the "newer" section & completly miss the medieval area because it is across the river gorge, across a street, and up a very steep hill.

On Thurs, it's market day in Aix. Get there early. Not sure it's an entire day visit, however. I still think you are visiting too may large cities in Provence. The small villages & countryside is what makes me return.

Wednesday is kinda light. Drive around the Alpillies a bit. I also think the market "hides" some of the nicer features in St Remy. Perhaps revisit it again in the afternoon. You could be seeing enough markets with l'Isle sur la Sorgue & Aix.

Stu Dudley

If you go to Chateauneuf du pape, I suggest lunch at th Chteau des Fines Roches.
Another fan here of Gigondas, you can dine at Les Florets.
And Seguret, where you cabn lunch at Mesclun with a beautiful view.

We just got back from a loooong trip (5 wks) and spent more time in Provence than we had originally planned, revisiting St Remy where we had based in 2003 for about a week, and also staying in Vence and then near Lagnes in a beautiful country "mas" for two nights. I echo the suggestions to drop some of the cities for some smaller towns. Getting in and out of Nimes, Avignon, Arles and Aix can be a real pain.

Like Stu noted, picking up your car Sunday AM could make you "too late" to find parking in Isle sur la Sorgue.

We got to Isle sur la Sorgue on a Sunday too late to find parking so we just proceeded on to Fontaine de Vaucluse. The river is magical and if you like fresh trout you can eat simply and wonderfully just outside of town at a little restaurant called L'eau Vive on the road to Lagnes. They have a beautiful terrace if the weather is nice -- but a lovely dining room inside if it isn't. From there you can head on to visit Gordes and Roussillon. The Abbaye de Senaque is in the region as well. Of course if you DO get to Isle sur La Sorgue in time for parking, you will likely spend half the day enjoying the market, so you may only get to see one other town and maybe a quick peek at another. Menerbes and La Costa are possibilities -- of course the most dramatic are Rousillon and Gordes.

Actually you might want to plan out Sunday and Monday, then decide what you want to do on Tuesday based on what you have or haven't seen yet.

St Remy, Glanum and Les Baux are a full day. I think Arles and Pont du Gard are a good pairing for another.

I think Carcassone can be a pretty big "visit" and might require spending a night near there before heading on to Sarlat. Otherwise you will want to get an early start on your way Friday, with as much time on the tollroad as possible if you plan to stop there around lunchtime. (The highways are expensive, but fast when you have distances to cover.)

Okay, this is what I wanted to hear and what we have been waiting for.

Stu (I've been waiting to hear from you :) I thought you might say too many cities... so if we go to Seguret, Sablet, and Gigondas will we see the countryside? Some advice on good countryside to visit in the area? Should we do the countryside on Monday when things are closed?

I have added a drive around Les Alpilles between St. Remy and then to Les Baux. I just read about it and it sounds wonderful and relaxing. We will mainly be going to St. Remy for the Glanum, Van Gough and the castle. I think one market is enough.

Maybe we will pass on Carcissone. We might be pushing it too much.

LadyO - to spend five weeks - how wonderful.

Thank you all for the great advice. So far, we will keep Sunday the same, don't know what to do Monday because a lot sounds closed, then for sure Wednesday at St. Remy and a drive through Les Alpilles and end the day in Les Baux to see the castle. We will be leaving for Sarlat on Friday morning.

Any other advice will be extremely appreciated. Thanks to all.

emh

I'm not stu but yes, you will see the countryside you wil be in Les Dentelles de Montmirail

Do you have my Provence itinerary??? If not, e-mail me at [email protected].

The Lavender Route in the itinerary is my favorite "countryside" excursion. The route goes from the Luberon through Sault & beyond, up in the mountains a little & then back. A Chateau, pretty countryside, cute village, mountains, and in late June & July - lavender.

A "perfect" day would be to take about 2/3 of the lavender route, then head over to the Seguret area after the mountains past Sault. To do this, as you pass through Aurel a second time after the mountain loop (see my itinerary), head north again towards Montbrun, instead of south to Sault. Just before Montbrun, take the D72/D40 west. Do an "up & back" to Brantes & admire the cute village of Brantes (go past Brantes a little for the best view). Continue west on the pretty D40 then the D13 to just north of Malacene. Then take the counter-clockwise loop around the Dentelles - stopping Crestet, in the medieval section of Vaison, then Seguret, & Gigondas (village isn't anything special, but there is a nice square there with a tasting co-op).

This plan would give you a good taste of the countryside, and insure your return the next year.

Stu Dudley

Cigalechanta/Stu, could we do the famous "Lavender Route" on a Monday and would the villages of Seguert, sablet, and Gigondas be open?

I am trying to fill Monday because I know a lot of places will be closed.

emh

Yes - there isn't really anything in Seguret or Gigondas to be closed. Seguret is a cute un-sppoiled village that doesn't have any shops (that I recall). Gigondas doesn't have anything either - except for several wineries and the "tasting room" on the main square. There might be one shop there. My favorite restaurant in this region is on the square - www.restaurant-oustalet.fr

Stu Dudley

In Gigondas, Les Florets was open for lunch on a Monday. It's a beautiful romanyic stop in the "Mountains of Lace."

Parking is available in L'Isle sur la
Sorgue at the Spar Supermarket across from the water wheel. We had no trouble finding a spotlast year and on the 9 Oct.this year we again used their lot for 10 Euro for about 5-6 hours.
A memorable experience that you don't want to miss.

There is just so much to see in such a little amount of time that no matter what, something has to be dropped. We have gone back and forth a few times now and here is an updated version of our first leg of our trip. Comments anyone? Too much or too little in one day? They are greatly appreciated!!!


Marseille on Saturday and pick up rental car (first week of September) and head to Avignon. Have nothing planned for the rest of Saturday. Stay up as late as we can and then get a good night sleep.

Sunday
GET UP EARLY
L’Isle sur la Sorge (morning market)
Roussillon
Gordes
Villages des Bories

Monday
Stu's Dentelles, Vaison w/ Romain Ruins and Serious Wine Country Route
Evening in Avignon - Palais des Papes, Rocherdes Domes, Pont St-Benezet

Tuesday
Drive to Marseille
Rent mopeds and ride along the Mediterranean Sea to Cassis for lunch
Boatride along Calanques
Shopping

Wednesday
St. Remy (market) - Castle on Rhone, Glanum Ruins, Van Gough San.
Evening in Les Baux

Thursday
Nimes - Amphitheatre, Maison Carree (don't stay too long)
Pont du Gard
Arles

Friday
Drive to Sarlat
(stopping at Carcassonne half way for a few hours and lunch)

Get in to Sarlat about 5pm.

What say ye?

emh

emh, one thing springs to mind as I read your itinerary: for places with ticket offices, such as the Roman ruins at Vaison-la-Romaine or the castle ruins at Les Baux, do try to find out what their hours of operation are before firming up their sequence on a day's outing.

I mention this since the ticket office at Vaison-la-Romaine was closed from noon to 2 pm both times we visited. That may have been because we were there in the shoulder season, but it could put a major dent in your plans if you have set up a full day of things you want to see.

Anselm

Anselm, that is one of the best pieces of advice that I have received yet. I would have never thought about that. thank you so much.

Stu, is there a "countryside route" from Avignon to Marseille we could take on the way to Marseille and then just take the autoway home?

emh

My Provence itinerary, which I think I sent you, has a scenic drive in the Cassis area. To get there, go over the Combe de Lourmarin then through Lourmarin to get to the Aix area & then to Cassis. I have not spent much time in the Salon/Aix/Marseille triangle so I don't have any first hand experiences. Why are you going to Marseille??

Stu Dudley

Because my husband wants to see the Mediterranean and Cassis. Can't seem to get him to change his mind.

Do you think the REST OF the trip is okay?

emh

I had my first sea urchins served raw in their half shell in a café along the port. I think it is their season!

It's really hard to set up an itinerary and plan a big trip like this when you have never been there before and people well comment on things and you don't have any clue what they mean. You just have to rely on what everyone is saying and hope for the best.

Stu, what Michelin map would I buy to be able to do the route you just mentioned?

Can anyone else tell me if we have booked too much in one day or not enough? We are now planning on flying in to Paris and then taking the TGV to Avignon and picking up the car there.

Thanks everyone for helping me. Hopefully soon I can move on to the next leg of our trip.

emh

>>Stu, what Michelin map would I buy to be able to do the route you just mentioned?<<

Map #114 is the best - however, you may not be able to find it in the US or from some of the internet sources. You could wait till you get to France & purchase it then. If you can't wait till then, get map #340 - but you will have to squint more to read it and some of the smaller roads are not on the 340 map.

Regarding packing 10 days worth of advised activiities into 5 days. Don't visit every town that seems cute/historic/charming/etc ie. - don't visit Aix, Nimes, Avignon, Arles, Uzes, etc - just pick 1 or 2 (I've advised this before). Get the Green Michelin guide and the Cadogan Guide and read thru these for further descriptions of the sites. Michelin has a rating system, and Cadogan is opinionated and will tell you if something is over/under rated. Also, don't try to do too much of the same "type" of stuff - mix countryside, with historic sites (Pont du Gard), with small villages, with outdoor markets, with larger cities, with chateaux, with "do nothing" moments. Also, don't drive too far just to visit one site (Cassis, for example). Remember, shops close for lunch and many sites do too. If you drive all the way to Aix and get there at 12:00 with the intention of shopping - you'll have to wait till 3:00 - which will screw up the rest of the day's planned activities.

Stu Dudley

Against the grain, but we don't travel with a plan , except for restaurants should we be in the area. We read what we like to see and can fit things in on our own clock. And the trip is truly ours not following in anyone's footsteps
and it keeps us open to serendipity.

Some times I think going to these towns/villages, we will be seeing countryside along the way and the cities aren't all the same. It is hard without being there arleady. Sorry if I am irritating you. I have dropped Arles and Nimes (only did Nimes so we could see the Roman architecture). I have dropped all the Avignon sites also except of what we may see while we are staying there. Thursday we aren't going to do much accept Pont du Gard and leave the rest of the day open for whatever we feel we need to do before we leave for the Dordogne. I have also added Les Alpilles Drive after St. Remy on Wednesday. I think that's enough. I am sure there will be times while we are there were things just change and we decide to chill for a day. But to have a baseline and the advice will make it so we don't make too many mistakes along the way.

Hope that sounds better and not too rushed. Thanks for the advice.

emh

I notice that you are planning to visit Vaison on Monday. I suggest that you maybe swap your Monday & Tuesday itineraries to be in Vaison Tuesday morning to be there for the market.

>>going to these towns/villages, we will be seeing countryside along the way and the cities aren't all the same<<

Seeing pretty countryside depends on which cities you are visiting. If you stay in St Remy, for example, and visit Nimes, Arles, and Avignon from there, you won't really see any scenic countryside that you won't already have seen by just touring the immediate area around St Remy/les Baux/Mausanne. Heading north from St Remy to Avignon is not that special, IMO, and west to Nimes is not scenic at all, most of the way. Ditto to Arles & Uzes. However, if you stay in the Luberon and head to the Alpillies via Senanque, Venasque, Mormoiron, Bedoin, Malaucene, it is quite scenic. Same with the partial "lavender Route" that I've suggested as a way to get to Vaison from the Luberon.

Like I've stated many times, there are many similarities between Nimes, Arles, & Avignon. I notice you've dropped most of these, but I would not short-change Avignon. While you are there, take the suggested walking itinerary in the Michelin guide.

While at the Pont, visit Uzes - one of my wife's favorite shopping towns and a little different from the rest of th medium sized cities. An efficient day would be to skip breakfast at your hotel (it really is almost never included in the room cost) and have breakfast at an outdoor cafe in Uzes in the big open center. It's fun to be in these towns before the tourists arrive, and you can watch the shopowners open up their stores. If you are there on Wednesday, you can watch the market getting started also. Tour Uzes after breakfast. Just before noon closing, head over to the Pont & have a lunch at the cafeteria before everyone else has lunch. Then tour the museum while everyone else is at lunch - it will be a lot less crowded then. After the museum, go see the Pont. I'm not a museum buff - but I really enjoyed the one at the Pont - it explains & demonstrates the wheres/whys/hows of aqueduct building by the Romans.

Stu Dudley

Stu - I love to watch shops open up in the morning before things get crazy, when people are out in front of their doorways sweeping the porches and it's still kind of quiet. We will go to Uzes for breakfast and then go shopping and visit the center, etc., until they close the shops for lunch. Then spend the afternoon at Pont du Gard. My husband is excited to see the museum too. That night we will just take it easy back in Avignon before our big drive the next day. I have divided the days between big towns and driving routes to small towns and took out Les Baux, Arles, and Nimes. I think two markets is enough for my husband. Don't think I could get him to do much more. (I could do them all!!)

Thanks again for all your help everyone. Really appreciated.

emh

>> took out Les Baux, Arles, and Nimes<<

I would not take out Les Baux. Getting there is quite scenic, and many people consider it a "must see".

Stu Dudley

I agree with Stu, it would be a shame to leave out Les Baux. There are several really wonderful restaurants there also(sitting at the foot of the village). This month Mirielle Guiliano (French women don't get fat)
reviews them on her webb site and you can read abit about Les Baux.

Okay, I put Les Baux in after the Les Alpilles route. That should work. Thank you for that. That is why I am in debt to you all.

emh :)