Fodor's Travel Talk Forums - Naples, Italy Information

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Naples, Italy Information

Hello I will be visitng the Naples, Italy area for a week in late November. My question regards where to stay -- how to balance my nights between Naples and the suurounding area of Camapania. I plan to use local transportation to get around. The most convenient spots to stay are Sorrento and Naples -- both to see those spots and to visit Pompeii, Vesuvius, Capri, etc. for the day. Normally, I would stay primarily in Naples, and maybe a night to two in Soreento and maybe one night in Capri for a change of pace, and more relaxing surroundings. However,opinion on Naples itself seems to be clearly divided -- between those who hate it and those that love it. I do plan to see the sights of the city for at least a coupel of days. Does anyone have recommendations on how to divide the time up??? In general, I like big cities. I have been to Rome, and could stay for days on end. I have also been to Milan, and just found it so-so. The 36 hours I was there was enough. If Naples is much like Milan, a limited amoutn of time would be enough. Any opinion?? Also, any recommendations on moderately priced hotels would be appreciated.

We took a cruise this summer, and although the ship stopped in Naples we did not bother with seeing it. We have always heard so many negative things about Naples that we decided to pass on it. One of the couples at our dinner table had taken the ship's guided tour of Naples. They both said it was so dirty and there was nothing charming about it. They were so upset that they had choosen to spend the day in Naples.

Howard- I just returned from Naples, Sorrento, Pompeii and Capri. Stay in Sorrento, take only one or two days at the most to see Naples. Stay on Capri for at least 2 nights. Pompeii is very interesting and not to be missed. I was in Milano and liked it better than Naples by far. Sorrento is wonderful and so is Capri. Have fun!

Despite some of the opinions you've heard, Naples isn't nearly so bad. My friend and I enjoyed our 3 day stay back in September 1996 very much. We stayed at the Santa Lucia Hotel on the waterfront, across the road from the Castel D'Ovo. As long as you don't flaunt your wealth you shouldn't have any problems. We were wearing dressy jeans, long sleeved tshirts and black trainers. Carried backpacks. No problems with anything - even notorious taxi drivers were all pussycats. Only problem(?) was in the boutiques - everything we touched was readjusted as soon as we moved away. Decided the locals must wear their "best" clothes to go shopping! We were careful wandering in back streets, but found a great little trattoria in the street running parallel to Via Toledo. The waterfront where our hotel was is quite upmarket and a nice place to stay. I believe the Vesuvio is the best of the hotels there. Even walking the streets at night there were heaps of people everywhere. People I knew at home (including one from Sorrento) tried to scare me off the place and I must admit the night before arriving there from Capri I felt a bit apprehensive, but the reality was so different.

There is also lots to see and three days there wasn't nearly enough. First and foremost you must see the Archaeological Museum, as the Pompeii frescoes and mosaics are there, as well as many ancient stone (such as the Farnese Hercules) and metal sculptures. Castel Nuovo has an array of C19th paintings and is architecturally interesting. The Palazzo Reale is quite spectacular (vestiges of the Bourbons). There is also decadence of sipping an espresso and woofing down a huge gelato in Caffe Gambrinus!

Naples is a greatly underrated city. It has cleaned up (both the streets and crime) a lot in the past few years, though it's still not clean by American standards. But the city has much to recommend it. As I have written on previous posts, I felt much more on my guard in terms of safety in Florence than in Naples. Just don't go walking around wearing sneakers and a fanny pack and carrying a camcorder.

I will grant its detractors that Naples is sometimes dirty, maddening, busy and perhaps bereft of 'sites' but it is definitely worth the visit. Perhaps this is where the difference between a 'traveller' and a 'tourist' comes into play again, and my, don't we know how we all feel about that theme on this forum? Go to Naples with an open mind and a sense of adventure and at least a smattering of Italian and you will enjoy it. Go with a headful of preconceived ideas and fears and you will probably wander no further than Piazza Garibaldi and have a wretched time. If you do stay, try the Mergellina area, from where you can take the hydrofoils to Capri or Ischia and where there is a funicular railway and a metro connection. There is a Best Western 3 star hotel with a fabulous roof terrace in this area which we stayed at. It is good value, given the location and roof terrace. You can eat well at the Castel d'Ovo, a walled castle protruding into the sea around which there is a marina with bars and restaurants and the like. Sorrento is really worth seeing too. You can get a train there on the Circumvesuviana line, which also goes to Pompeii and Vesuvius.

We spent 5 nights in Naples in mid-September and were very pleased with our visit. One full day (by train) to Pompei, 1/2 day to the Archelogical Museum, 1/2 day to Herculeum, 1 day to Capri, and the rest of the time wandering the streets in the old section which was fun and we felt relatively safe. We stayed at the Albergo Sansevero just off Piazza Bellini on Via S. Maria di Costantinopali 101 (tel 081-21-0907)with balcony. It was well sited and you can walk everywhere (including to train station, but excluding Palazzo Reale)- convenient, clean, comfortable, and economical. Would suggest one night at Capri, leave heavy bags at your Naples hotel and just carry overnight on the hydrofoil. Can't offer advice on Sorrento or Amalfi coast as we drove thru (in the rain) to Paestum, which is worth a 1/2 day visit.

Naples is all everyone has said and more. Take that anyway you like. Frankly I would use it as a day trip or two days and stay in Sorrento, with quick and easy boat service to Naples, and to Pompeii. And PLEASE don't make the mistake of doing a day trip to Capri. We got to Capri and hated it by mid afternoon, but we were staying three nights. Once the boats started leaving in the late afternoon, the island was wonderful, and once we traveled to Anacapri and hiked on the hills we were in love with the place. Truly one of those places that's overrun with daytrippers, but is wonderful once they leave. Also stayed in Positano for three nights and boated to Amalfi which was actually great fun -- lots of locals eating out and marketing, etc. The whole area is really kind of magical. We even loved Sorrento, which everyone told us was simply too touristy.

Nigel ...I am with you. Pass Naples and staying in your ship.... Peccato !!!! No more comments. Graziella

Though I've been there quite a few times, I don't feel I have a "grip" on the city (kind of lost!). This may be so because invariably I've been hosted by a very close cousin of mine and emphasys ends up beeing put on family relations. She has been our "guide" to the city, doing all the driving, to the nearby islands on her boat and dining out. When I'm in Naples, therefore, I just sit back and totally relax for a change. I certainly have loved all my visits there and what attracts me most is its "atmosphere". I find it kind of amazing that people living in a city with the highest demographic index in Europe, high unemployment rate, maddening traffic, very little of "green", etc can be so "cool". Though the city may be dirty (it certainly has improved along the years) I frankly almost don't notice it (as if it were a simple minor detail). In my peculiar Naples experience: a) I agree with the recommendation of spending a night or two in Capri (or Ischia). I've visited these islands only on day trips and, even though I did it with a large degree of freedom, I'd certainly like the opportunity experiment early in the morning and in the evening/night). If this turns up, some day, I'll definitively stay in Anacapri; On the other hand I certainly wouldn't trade Naples for Sorrento; b) if things haven't changed, Monday is a good day to take off early in the morning ... most of the sites should be closed for the day; c) if you're visiting the Archaeological Museum and Pompei during the same day, visit the museum first (I'd be very surprised if it turns out to be open in the afternoon); d) if the Capodimonte museum is not closed for works, it's almost a "must"; it's one of my preferred small museums in Italy; e) I've had much fun strolling old Naples and Spaccanapoli at daylight with my cousin, as well as Santa Lucia and Castel d'Ovo in the evening. Paulo

I just wanted to add my vote for staying in Capri for a few nights. We've been there 4 times and will be going back next summer for our 5th. It is truly a magical place, like no place else I have ever visited. A great hotel, somewhat removed from the crowds is the Luna. Have a great time