Naples Dilemma
 

My two friends and I have two full days to spend in the region of Campania during a backpacking trip to Italy this May. As the primary planner for this trip I have chosen to base in Naples (staying at the Hostel of the Sun). I have decided to use one of our two days to visit the town of Amalfi (planning to get there via Metro del Mare). This will allow us to see a large portion of the coast from the sea and also spend some time in one of the small coastal towns. I would like to use the other day to tour Naples. Here comes the dilemma. My original plan for the second day included the National Archeoligical Museum, Spaccanapoli, Via Communale, and Santa Lucia. However, several people that I know recommend that I visit Pompeii. Now from what I understand the National Archeoligical Museum in Naples houses the largest collection of artifacts retrieved from Pompeii so initially I thought that might make up for not visiting the actual site itself. What I need to know is if a half-day or full-day trip to Pompeii is really worth my time or if I should just stick to my original plan. Your insights will be much appreciated.

Pompeii is an enormous and fantastic historic site that almost has no equal the world over. (Think Egyptian pyramids, Taj Mahal, etc. for comparison). The Naples museum is astonishing, but it does not substitute for the impact of a visit to the ruined city itself. If you are interested in Pompeii and history, both should be visited.

The Amalfi coast is dramatic beauty spot not unlike Big Sur (are you American?) although with towns that cling to the hillsdies, great food, lemons and great charm as well as beauty -- although the Amalfi is very much geared to the tourist trade.

In two days, you cannot possibly do justice to Pompeii, Naples and Amalfi. The closest you can come is to base yourself in Sorrento, which has just a wee bit of the lemony charm of the relaxed Amalfi, with pretty seaside sunsets. From there, you can see Pompeii, and visit Naples, but return each night to the good food and seaside relaxtion of the Mediterranean.

If you are really not interested in Pompeii (you are not obliged), stick to your original plan.

Where are you coming from? One plan that might solve your dilemma is to begin your journey in Campania in Salerno (even if you are coming from Rome.) Don't spend time in Salerno but catch the bus there to Sorrento. Get off in Amalfi or Atrani for lunch, then continue on. By the time your bus arrives in Sorrento, you will have seen almost all fo the most dramatic scenery of the Amalfi coast. Sleep in Sorrento.

If you want to return to the coast the next day, do so. If you want Pompeii, go there and return to Sorrento to sleep. The next morning, get up early, take the train to Naples and stow your luggage at the train station. Tour Naples and its archeology museum. Leave by train for your next destination.

T2T - As Pompeii is en route to the Amalfi Coast, why not combine them? You could spend half a day in each and still see plenty ...

You could take the Metro del Mare to Positano for the morning (- more charming than Amalfi :) ) - then return to Pompeii via Meta (i.e. bus from Positano to Meta, then train (Circumvesuviana) to Pompeii.

Or vice versa - Pompeii in the morning, Amalfi in the afternoon ...

Hope this helps ...

Steve

HI,

I just came back from a trip to Italy. We took a day trip that combined Pompeii and the archeological museum in Naples, and I am SO glad we did. Yes, Pompeii is so evocative by itself, with Vesuvius looming in the distance, but then to see the incredible mosiacs and paintings and STUFF that was unearthed there, really brought the place to life. What an extraordinary city it must have been! If you can work it into your itinerary to see both, I HIGHLY recommend it!

Have fun!

Patti

I think the best plan would be to add another day and reserve it for Pompeii. If that is not possible, try getting to Pompeii early one day, the returning to Naples for the museum. The rest of the attractions you want to see in the city are walkbys -- you can see Spaccanapoli after leaving the museum, and perhaps have dinner in Santa Lucia (I would recommend Da Ettore).

I think Pompeii is wonderful, but as stated, it is vast. If you want to get a feel of Pompeii, and the eruption in 79AD, then might I suggest Herculaneum - 5 minutes walk from Ercolano station on route to Sorrento. It is also wonderful, but "doable" in a couple of hours

Thank you all for your very helpful replies. After reading your replies and doing a little more online research, I've decided to include Pompeii into our itinerary, and for now I am going to nix the archeoligical museum.

I still have some details to work out, but the new version of our itinerary will basically include two day trips: one to Amalfi or Positano (haven't made up my mind yet) and the other to Pompeii. Then we will use the evenings to explore Naples. Perhaps if we have some extra time during one of the afternoons, we will be able to hit the archeological museum for a few hours. If not, I wouldn't mind saving it for a future trip.

Nessundorma, to answer your question I am American and this will be my first trip to Europe.

time2travel don't miss the SAN SEVERO'S CHAPEL in Spaccanapoli

Cappella San Severo is indeed worth seeing. It is the size of a single room, so no excuses -- see it first thing in the morning if that's the only time to squeeze it in.

Do be careful walking around Napoli at night. Ask your hotel concierge to show you on a map which areas are not safe. Napoli is one of the very few Italian cities that is like our typical American city in that it has neighborhoods that are unsafe.

I am so glad to hear you are including Pompeii for a day. After you see it, you may not be able to resist seeing the archeological museum. Be aware that the museum will hold your luggage for you while you tour the museum.

Regarding the choice between Amalfi and Positano, please realize that both are tourist resorts. Positano is both closer and more poetically arranged and picturesque than Amalfi.

Neither is the kind of town you "explore" like the historic walled towns of Italy. Exploration turns up more tourist shops!

One goes to the Amalfi coast to see the views, the lemon trees growing from the sides of hills and -- if you've got the scratch -- to laze around the swimming pool and feel rich.

In fact, you could head down to Positano in the morning, have a lunch, and be back in Naples in time to go to the archeology museum. ;-)

I just booked 2 nights at hostel of the sun for may 12/13, when are you gonna be there.

Hi T,

>I've decided to include Pompeii into our itinerary, and for now I am going to nix the archeoligical museum. <

I urge you to reconsider. (That's more polite than saying "NO! NO! NO! :) )

You have 2 days.

Take the train to Sorrento and the bus to Praiano. This gives you a ride along the Coast Road.

From Praiano, you get lovely views of the coast and Positano.

Take the Orange bus to Positano. It will drop you at the foot of the town.
See some of Positano.

From here, take the ferry to Sorrento, to see the coast from the water, and the train to Pompei.

Return to Naples.

Day 2. See the Archaeological Museum, Capella Sansevero, the waterfront, and get a view of the city and Bay of Naples from Castel S. Elmo.

In the evenings walk through Spaccanapoli and along the waterfront.

Pizza Bellini on Piazza Bellini is a good restaurant, about 1.5 km from your hostel.

((I))

bookmarking!

I see this is an old thread, but for other budget travelers to Pompeii, there is a campground within walking distance of the ruins and train station. The campground has campsites, but also rents bungalows with AC.
http://www.campingspartacus.it/menu/...lery.asp?id=27

There is a hostel in Positano.
http://www.brikette.com/