pariswat

I've read somewhere you can eat at Marmottan.

welltraveledbrit

Here's my blog post on the Marmottan-Monet is it's of interest. When I was there in 2013 there was no cafe though it could have changed.

http://www.somuchmoretosee.com/2013/...et-museum.html

Have you been to the Jaquemart Andre or the nearby Nissim Camondo in the 9th? There is a cafe at the Jaquemart Andre and the audio guide is excellent, highly recommended.

http://www.somuchmoretosee.com/2013/...dre-paris.html

pariswat

Jacquemart has a cafe.
µSorry, I went to both the same day and mix them up.

Mathieu

And I'll second the suggestion for Nissim de Commando which is in the 8th. I throughly enjoyed a couple of hours at this beautiful and unusual Musee des Arts Decoratifs which is a residence, and the family treasures it contains.

I came away with dozens of unusual photos, including some close-ups of large silk tassels holding back heavy drapes, which looked so special in the October light, the large array of copper ware in the kitchen and some neat needlepoint artwork depicting food and fruit that looked like it had been painted - the shades of thread used were so delicate and exacting.

Definitely worth a visit.

latedaytraveler

Hi again WTB,

I enjoyed your blogs of the MAROTTAN and JAQUEMART. Sorry I missed the latter so your depiction was helpful.

Also agree with your and MATHIEU'S suggestion about the Nissim Camondo Musee - so beautiful and with such a tragic family history.

KOSVIE, let us know how you are progressing...

Mathieu

Hello latedaytraveler,

I'm embarrassed to say that I am more than a year behind in our correspondence - life has been such a whirlwind and I do apologize. I promise to write soon, but glad to see that you are well and travelling. Look forward to catching up soon.

Kovsie, apologies for the misnomer.. I know I typed in 'Camondo'.. I made sure that I did, but this damn autocorrect changed the word to Commando.. which brings its own unintended humour.

kovsie

I am back home, had my first day at work, have a functioning computer again.

We left Paris feeling healthy and rested. At Zurich airport, waiting for the connecting flight, I suddenly realised that I am not feeling well at all! Just a travelbug and a not-serious dose of flu, but enough to make me feel a bit sorry for myself. Sigh.

Have scanned through the TR thus far - it is so great to write during the trip and receive thoughtful comments and recommendations along the way.

For now, let me share one memory of our trip that still makes me smile:
The greengrocer and seller of 'all stuff' near our Paris home became a daily highlight. It was always an entertaining struggle to make myself understandable (using an online dictionary on my phone, once even phoning DD to help explain). The tall thin man who mostly works there, would help with a chuckle and some teasing. We would both be delighted when I found what I wanted, his finger pointing meaningfully at the price of the items. When leaving, I would say "Merci" and he would respond: "Thank you very good!"

kovsie

THE DAY I WENT TO THE MARMOTTAN
I whole-heartedly agree with all of you who recommended the Marmottan. It is truly a delightful little museum.

Getting there is a bit of a trek – it is in a lovely residential area. The short walk from the metro station through a park is clearly indicated - just follow the brown signs. The day I went there was drizzly and cool, just the right kind of weather for art!

I arrived a little before opening time at 10am, and was first in line when the huge door was opened. Part of the museum is about the house, furnishings, crystal chandeliers, other artists … a gift shop, then, downstairs, in the basement you find the Monet collection. I marched straight through all the other stuff and reached Monet in record time. For 35 blissful minutes, I had it all to myself! Just me and one security guard and a room full of Monet. I was blown away.


Although a picture cannot capture the reality, this painting is my favourite:

https://www.google.ae/search?q=impre...7hOOfZEOaMM%3A

There are many other paintings that are just as special, but the ‘Image: Sunrise’ was the one I returned to repeatedly. There are a few studies of water lilies. There are portraits of Monet and his wife, painted by Renoir.

This morning will remain one of my most treasured memories of Paris.

When you do look through the rest of the house, remember to glance through the windows – a great view of trees and park in busy Paris.

TDudette

I bought that print also, kovsie! Great minds.

Again, your TR was so lovely. Thank you very much. You are a wonderful writer.

irishface

Thanks for sharing your wonderful month in Paris! I have some things put in my notebook for when I get back to Paris!

analogue

This is a truly excellent report and you are very lucky to have been 'brave' enough to stay in the banlieue which so many people fear irrationally.

LCBoniti

So good to hear back from you - I loved your green grocer experience. And being relatively alone with any great art is just magical.

starrs

This is delightful!

kovsie

Thanks analogue and LCB and starrs and everybody else!

analogue: I never felt that I had to be 'brave' to stay out in the suburbs! It was great, and I will do it again. There is more to Paris than big museums and huge monuments and the walk along the Seine near Notre Dame.

For an excellent report on 'another side' of Paris I heartily recommend kerouac's newest thread:
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...aten-track.cfm

kovsie

THE THE SALON
Coming from the Marmottan, on the way to the metro, you pass a restaurant/patisserie marked with faded script as a The Salon. From the sidewalk, it seems that most people are having coffee. I find a table in the second row – inside but still having a good view. They are really busy on this Sunday morning. People are reading newspapers, chatting, families are having breakfast. This is one of the great joys of the culture here, for the price of an espresso you can have your table until you are ready to leave. My coffee and pastry arrive – perfect. I see a large woman with a large bag and small dog standing in everybody’s way, dissatisfaction oozing. The manager comes to listen to the problem. I pick up snatches of the loud and protracted conversation – mostly through gestures and body language. Madame wants a table. Noooo, not one of the available tables inside, she prefers a table in the front row outside. It is all full? Can that be? Can something be done? The manager surveys his field, notices the two young girls who are using a table without a chair to stow their numerous bags. Deftly, smilingly, he removes the bags, moves the table one centimeter to the left to indicate new ownership, snaps his fingers for a chair … voila! Madame has the seat that she wished for. Queenly Madame arranges herself, her bag on the floor. The little dog, who is clearly used to the proceedings, clambers right into the bag, ensures that he has a good view too, and the pair settles down. Madame is obviously a regular, because seconds later, a pot of tea and a basket with three pastries appear at her elbow. Could this whole entertaining show have happened in any other country?

Mathieu

And that, Kovsie, is the best and most authentic slice of Paris you could have ever experienced, lol. Thanks for that delectable little morsel

YankyGal

I'm loving this style of reporting, i.e. stories, impressions, moments. Recommendations are wonderful, don't get me wrong, but for someone who reads novels set in upcoming destinations, rather than guidebooks, I am totally enjoying it. Thanks, kovsie.

kovsie

YankyGal: thanks for the thanks! The hidden recommendation is, of course, that you should have time for this. If you rush through Paris with a to-do list you may just miss the "delectable little morsels"

kovsie

A little later a child tried to say hallo to the dog. The nervous little dog thought to protect his territory and barked ferociously, seemingly ready to eat the child's hand to the elbow. Madame did not blink. The parents retrieved their son in a huff. The manager watched serenely.

TDudette

What YankyGal said.