I don't know if you said where your home is that you are exchanging with this family, but I am guessing the teenage boy with the New York bedroom is every bit as entranced by his experience in the US if that is where you are from as you and your daughter are with your stay in Paris.

And if you do make it back to Paris during the cultural season, tickets to performances at the Opera Garnier do not require a big budget, there are some very reasonably priced seats, although you may have to be up in the upper reaches of the theater. As you point out, there are some seats with very limited views, but there are some whose only drawback is their height (and the fact that you feel like you are sitting on a perch rather than a chair).

Love your continuing TR! The night of the thunderstorm sounds awesome.

Enjoying kovsie- loved the set tour of Opera Garnier - even my husband who hates tours TMI he says but found this one great .
Pere La Chaise - a beautiful place to explore - spot the famous but also the family mausoleums -

I am loving this trip report!! And your day at Fauchon and Chanel sounds like heaven on earth! Keep it coming!! :)

It was nice to read it.

I was kind of half looking for Fauchon my last trip. I had seen in my second trip and knew I was close but didn't find it. If it had been THAT important I would have made sure to get there. I went by Chanel's shop with my friend but didn't go in. She was going to meet up with her couture group later in the week (she's a BIG time sewer) and wanted to see some of the windows of the fashion houses.

I have a few places on my bucket list, mostly food centered, for when I go back. LOL I'm also a food court whore at all the grand magazines.

I would have never left Fauchon with a LITTLE pink box. LOL

THE DAY I WENT TO MORET-SUR-LOING

I went to Moret-sur-Loing as recommended by Stokebailey and Kerouac. It is on the RER line, it is 45 minutes from Gare de Lyon, and it is a delightful little town. It is as if you are walking into a film set, almost too pretty to be real. The sleepy cat watching from the top of an ancient wall, red geraniums against purple shutters, cobble stones, a WW1 memorial, flowers, wisteria twisting against the walls, the clear river with a few people swimming, the cathedral towering, the town gates still in good repair, people quietly chatting under red umbrellas on the town square – these are scenes that Renoir could have painted. It is so small – you can see from one city gate to the other. But it is big enough to get lost in the maze of narrow streets. Somebody should publish a book with pictures of the doors and windows of Moret-sur-Loin!

But - it is a real town, with people stopping to post letters, chatting in the street, returning from the supermarket with baguettes under the arm. Not all buildings are ancient, but many are. After the madness of summer in Paris, it is restfully quiet. The few small restaurants do brisk business, but there is not a queue in sight.

The creperie that Stokebailey recommended, the one with the river view at the town gate, was closed – it seems they are still busy with serious renovations. I had lunch at a small place next to the town square called Le Rouge Gorge, and I loved it. 20Euro for the ‘plat’ and desert, with a glass of wine and a very nice coffee added. I was a bit early for lunch, and found Madame the owner standing on a chair in the square! She was fixing one of her red umbrellas. She is friendly, bilingual and serves good food. When you ask about the menu, she fetches the small blackboard with the day’s offerings, and explains it to you.

I had an early lunch. By the time I started walking again, the little shops were closed. It seems they re-open by 3.30pm, but then I was on my way back to Paris. There is not much to entice shoppers, but one or two places did look interesting.

If you feel that your life needs new direction, you may buy the hotel / guest house facing the town square … it is still for sale. There are a few other smaller places also for sale. I prefer the small house with lavender shutters near the cathedral!

Have a look at kerouac’s photo essay linked above, lovely pictures that say much more than my words.

Trains from Gare de Lyon leave only once every hour – at 19 minutes past the hour. If you have RER tickets for Zone5, go straight to Halle 1 and find the train by looking at the big electronic boards. You want the station Moret veneux les Sablons, direction Montargis. If you have to buy tickets, make sure that you are in the correct line! Also: when returning to Paris, make sure that you are on the correct platform - the signage is somewhat confusing.

I am still thinking about Moret-sur-Loing. This place gives new meaning to the word 'picturesque'. The river is so clear that you can see little stones at the bottom from the bridge. It seems shallow and safe near the bridge. I was thinking what a nice day trip it would be with young children. Lawns and huge shady trees along the river, place to play in the water, even to wade knee-deep right to the other side - AND good food nearby!

It's just a shame that the walk from the train station is as long as it is!

YES! I asked at the tourist info office, and they said no bus goes between town and station. They do have taxis in town but, according to the TI lady, the taxis do not want to do the run to the station. You would think that somebody would see a business opportunity here (perhaps the new owner of the hotel)! It is only a 15minute walk, but it does feel long.

Sounds like a perfect daytrip.

Have been on vacation without internet access for 6 days! SOOOOO happy to catch up on your experiences. Great book idea, I think, for you to document your adventures and impressions in your exchange and to have the other family do the same based on their experiences in the US. You write thoughtfully and beautifully.

How fun, kovsie. I knew you'd make the most of your month. Loving your report.

Moret sur Loing sounds enchanting. I shall dream about the little house with lavender shutters.

Hi KOVSIE,


"Today we went to the Rodin Museum, and I spent a few extra minutes at the various sculptures of Victor Hugo. Sitting in the garden with beautiful roses, having enough time to really look at Rodin's art was special." Isn't it delightful? You might also enjoy the Hugo Museum - his home in the Marais -#6 Place des Vosges.

Kerouac - merci for yet another great photo splash. Moret-sur-Loing is beautiful!

So glad that you and your daughter were able to enjoy Moret. Great report - merci...

I am writing this from a borrowed laptop, my own crashed a few days ago. Major frustration. We are in the last week of our adventure. Will post the last section of this TR when we are back home next week. Every day is just special, I am having a Monet splurge at the moment! Thanks for following along!

If you've got a Jones for Monet, think about heading over to the Musée Marmottan out in a residential area of the 16th. Much lower-key than the big places, chock-full of Monets (with some worthwhile Pissaros and Sisleys, as well) -- nice place.

And if you haven't got time to go there this time, it makes a good start for a list of places to visit on the next trip.

Oh, sorry about the crashed laptop - mostly because we now have to wait for more of your beautiful updates!!

Hope you enjoy the rest of your time in Paris and I look forward to catching up.

Hi again KOVSIE,

Just seconding Don Topaz's suggestion - "think about heading over to the Musée Marmottan out in a residential area of the 16th."

That is an excellent museum and so "doable." Just looked back at my 2012 Paris TR:

"Built as a 'hunting lodge' on the edge of the Bois de Boulogne, it was owned by the Duke of Valmy, a serious art collector who bequeathed his works to the Academie des Beaux Arts. The original collection was First Empire, but then the family acquired many late 19th century paintings so their focus changed. In 1966 Monet’s second son Michael left the MAROTTAN his collection of his father’s works, 'thus creating the world’s largest collection of Monet
paintings.' "

Brings back great memories - what a toney neighborhood too...

endorse a visit to Marmottan