sheila

I think we're going to be asked to a wedding in Lisbon at the end of June. Not having been before, I'd like to take a week- probably mid week to mid week, and spend some time there. I haven't even bought a book yet although I've had a wee look round here earlier.

1. Interested in real Fado. I have a number of records, and would love to hear it sung locally- preferably somewhere not just for tourists. Any suggestions.

2. Our style is to prefer to self-cater; ie be in a flat, rather than a hotel. We would, however, want one a) with a separate sitting room; and preferably b) with a terrace. I guess we'd like to be central although not necessarily in the main square, if you see what I mean. Does anyone have any recommendations either as to a specific flat or to an area. We like places with cafes, bars. markets, local shops. Not high end stuff.

3. What else should we do or see? Is there anything within an easy day trip's worth?

4. Has anyone been to a bourgeois Portuguese wedding? Anything you can tell us about format? dress?

Mati

Last May we stayed in a very spacious apartment in Lisbon's Chiado district, www.vrbo.com/77293. But there is no terrace. There is a lift and the windows face the square, but the windows are sound proof. The tram stops in the square and there are many restaurants, pastry shops, groceries, bakeries etc. nearby. This owner has other apartments; there is a link to his other apartments on the website above. He was very easy to deal with and helpful.

We spent a day in the castle and Alfama districts, transportation via tram. For another day trip we walked to the ferry port and crossed the river for a terrific lunch at Ponto Final, then walked up the stairs (there is a lift too) to spend a few hours in the town of Almada. (Ferry to Cacilhas) Another beautiful day trip is to Sintra via train. We walked to the Rossio train station for the train. Everything is so accessible from this apartment!

Nikki

For fado, Caldo Verde is a small place in the Bairro Alto at Travessa Poço da Cidade, 40. We went with Lobo Mau, a Lisbon Fodor's poster, and we were the only tourists there.

You get invited to the best weddings.

sheila

where did you guys stay?

Nikki

We have stayed at two hotels in Lisbon: The Hotel Borges, on Rua Garrett in the Chiado http://www.hotelborges.com/hotelborges/homeENGL.html

and the Residencial Florescente, at Rua Portas De Santo Antão Nº 99. http://www.residencialflorescente.com/ This is a pedestrian street lined with restaurants just off the Rossio square.

Both are fairly basic hotels in good locations.

I have read trip reports here with reviews of apartments that would probably meet most of your criteria and will try to find them for you.

Nikki

Here's one apartment I had bookmarked: http://www.vrbo.com/60752

Here's another:
http://www.rent4days.com/lisbon-apar...rrett+deluxe+/

ter2000

Three years ago we booked an apartment with www.travellingtolisbon.com - we actually stayed in Apartment no. 1 on the website, which was in the Baixa area.

Overall it worked out quite satisfactorily with a couple of caveats. The street where the apartment building was located was up quite a number of steps, with the apartment up about 60 more in the building, so it's not for the unfit! The area is "colourful" - very close to the city centre, but we were woken from a siesta on our first day by the sound of gunfire and looked out our window to see the police shooting and chasing after a man running down our street! (We later saw him being led away having been apprehended and handcuffed. That was the only such incident in the area and far from typical, we were told). And sadly, my handbag was stolen, having carelessly left it hanging over the back of my chair in a local bar.

Having said all that we LOVED Lisbon and I hope I haven't put you off. It's "grittier" than a lot of European cities, but it has loads to offer. You'll have a wonderful time - I'm sure the wedding will be fantastic.

sheila

Brilliant input guys, thanks

lreynold1

Just one thing -- you asked about dress for a wedding. I have been both to a wedding and a baptism in Lisbon, and the dress was EXTREMELY dressy. Both events were absolutely beautiful. You can probably take some cues from the site of the reception -- the wedding I attended had the reception in the Lapa Palace, which is a fancy hotel.

But in general, I think it's fair to say that Portuguese people tend to dress more formally than in the US. I just picked up a Portuguese friend last night at the airport (he's coming to teach a course for a week) and he was in a sports coat and dress pants. Not the way most of us on this side of the pond dress for an overseas flight, especially since the destination on arrival was the hotel.

You will love the wedding, I don't mean to suggest that just because it's formal, it'll be stiff. The events I've been to were wonderful affairs. Laurie

sheila

Thanks Laurie. The brothers' and sister's wedding were very posh and it's the Portuguese half of the family which is the poshest bit so....>sighs<

I am really looking forward to it.

VisitingPortugal

Hello, Sheila - What a treat. Portuguese weddings are incredible. Expect to see more beautifully prepared food than you may have ever seen in your life, and spend the afternoon, evening and perhaps into the wee hours of the morning celebrating. Did I mention food will be non-stop?

Wear something simple yet elegant.

As for fado, you might also consider Mesa de Frades in the Alfama. Small, informal, it's where the fado singers go to unwind... nothing really starts until almost midnight. You never know who'll show up, but they may well be the best of the best, both fadistas and musicians.

Have a great trip!
debk

sheila

That's me... simple but elegant.

A thought occurs; being a non fish eating veggie, will I have difficulty eating? I'm used to it, but it would be so nice if I didn't.

Thank you, Visiting , for the fado recommendation

sheila

ttt

Sher

Sheila. Do you eat eggs and milk? Because I probably could easily live on pastry in Lisbon.

Seriously. There have been posts about vegetarians in Lisbon. I just cannot put my finger on it with the search.
If you try the topic on Google or another search engine sometimes Fodor posts come up.

We have rented three apartments in Lisbon, unfortunately none had a terrace. But I have used VRBO and Traveling To Lisbon and rent4days and they have many apartments. With VRBO it is a little more risky as you really are dealing with individual owners. With Traveling To Lisbon you are dealing with an agency and I you can email them with specific questions about an apartment that you like and they will email you back. The same with rent4days.

Good Luck.

sheila

I do. Thanks for the further guidance

lobo_mau

Sheila, do you need to buy a wedding gift in Lisbon? If you do, don't stress, because there ir plenty of offer. I can direct you to the right place.

ameliamaria

Hi,
A group of 10 university friends came to see me in Lisbon.
They have booked an apartment (a just renovated space )near praça do comercio and Fado museum-Alfama.
Very large apartment with 4 rooms and 2 beds in the lounge.....
A very good value.

sheila

Lobo, thanks for that. I think, given that they're furrin, and we're Scots, I'll probably bring something from here. That's what we did with her siblings.

Ameliamaria, I think the apartment to which you're referring would be too big for us.

sheila

Guys, a follow up now that the recent excitement is out of the waybr />
We have been invited and the flights are booked (it's part of the package, would you believe?). So, we fly to Lisbon on 22nd June, arriving 12.50pm, and leave on 28th at 3.50pm.

Lobo Mau, should you know of any "events" in that time, which we might want to go and see, please would you let me know?

Our accommodation- also part of the invitation-is at the Pestana Palace Hotel

http://www.hotelpestanapalace.com/

On 24th June our hosts are organising a relaxed dinner. On the 25th there is a gold tournament for the golfers and tourist and cultural tour of Lisbon for those who don't golf, (or you can just chill) followed by an evening at the Palacio dos Condes d'Obidos for a "typical Portuguese dinner" and an evening of song and music.

Saturday, they get married at the Sao Roque Church at lunchtime. There is a cocktail party at 8pm at the Palacio Nacional de Mafra.

On Sunday, we are invited to a Sardinhada e Churrasco at Estoril at 2pm.

So, even taking the extra days, we've got very little time to do stuff on our own.

I have bought Time Out Lisbon, a decent map, and the Eye Witness guide to Lisbon, plus their Top 10 guide. (If I buy any more, KMR will KILL me) And there was an article on in last month;s High Life.

So- what are we missing?

namaka

....taking me with you? LOL!