My second try at the perfect trip to Scotland – itinerary
 

After a wonderful, whirlwind tour of Scotland in August 2003, my husband and I have decided to take another trip at a more relaxed pace in the East of the country, that we have not visited before, in August 2009.
Just to let you know, a third trip is already in the making for 2010 , probably to visit some areas in the North and West that we missed in 2003.
While 6 years ago we were very naïve and didn’t know exactly where to go, what to see and how to do it, today we probably exaggerate on the other side: we have very clear ideas of what we want, and this has led to sometimes unusual choices.
More specifically, my husband thought we had not see enough castles in our previous trip, therefore the highlight of this year is the Castle Trail, and I would like to know your opinion on the inevitable choices we had to do on which castles to visit. Please note that I love ruins while my husband prefers restored castles, but then we are both more interested in furnished rooms rather than in art collections, paintings and painted ceilings.
On the other hand, we like open air museums a lot, and included a couple of them in our itinerary.
Finally, we have pre-booked all accommodations, and for their choice we heavily relied on friend suggestions, thus picking some that are in the middle of nowhere (but who knows, they could be real finds, at least we hope so!).

Here is our itinerary, please let me know what you think:

August 4th
Landing in Edinburgh at 1 pm, going to Pitlochry to see friends. Possibly making a detour to Stirling Castle to collect Homecoming Pass.
Sleeping in Dunmurray Lodge in Pitlochry, has anyone tried it?

August 5th
Driving to and visiting Glamis Castle, having a hike in Glen Clova. Possibly going a bit further and visiting Edzell Castle (does any of you recommend it?).
Sleeping in Dalhenzean Lodge, in the middle of nowhere on A93 (friends suggestion).

August 6th
We are driving to Stonehaven, visiting a couple of villages and possibly a castle, and/ or having a hike on the way. Not really decided on this, but I think we could visit maybe Braemar, Ballater and Kincardine O'Neil, and have a look at Craigievar Castle (I know you can’t go inside), or at Drum Castle. The hike could be around Loch Muick.
Depending on how long all this takes, we’ll visit Dunnottar Castle in the evening, or in the morning of the following day.
Sleeping in Beachview B&B in Stonehaven, where I had some problems in finding a room.
Probably having dinner at The Creel Inn, Catterline.

August 7th
We are driving up the coast, with some detours, from Stonehaven to Pennan.
We are going to circumnavigate Aberdeen and to visit Castle Fraser (it took long to select this one, what do you think of it?), the Sands of Forvie (quickly, as we are not into birdwatching), the Bullers of Buchan, to have a look at Slains Castle (if reachable, I have read they are working on it) and at Aberdeenshire Farming Museum, a small – but – free open air museum in Peterhead.
Sleeping in Pennan (we thought it would be cool) in the only accommodation available: Driftwood B&B.

August 8th
After a look at the small village of Crovie, we are driving to Elgin to visit the cathedral and then Pluscarden Abbey, highly praised by some Fodorites.
Then, we are going to do something open air (weather permitting), maybe visiting Cairngorm Reindeer Centre, or Rothiemurchus Estate, or Highland Wildlife Park?
Sleeping in Old Ferryman's House in Boat of Garten (friends suggestion again).

August 9th
We are visiting Highland Folk Museum in Newtonmore and Blair Castle, that we barely missed in 2003. It is possible that we stop at House of Bruar to buy souvenirs, if we haven’t done it yet.
Then we are going to Dunkeld, that we visited in 2003 and liked immensely, and are having dinner and sleeping there at The Pend, which was recommended by friends and looks very nice on their website also.

August 10th
On our last full day, we are thinking of visiting a few villages and places that are more off the beaten path, at least I can’t find them often in trip reports. Going west from Dunkeld, we are visiting Fortingall, the Crannog Centre (a reconstruction of a prehistoric lake dwelling), Loch Tummel and Queen’s View, and probably (back on the A9) Stone Palace and/ or Dunfermline Abbey. Actually, I would be also interested into Elcho and Loch Leven Castles, but I don’t know how much we’ll be able to fit in.
We are sleeping in the small, picturesque village of Culross, in St. Mungo’s B&B.

August 11th
On our last day, our departure from Edinburgh Airport is at 1 pm. I think we’ll just have the time for a not – so – early breakfast, packing and driving there.
Will traffic be very intense, on a Tuesday mid-morning?

So this is it, what are your thoughts?
Thanks for reading, and for any suggestion you will have!

Great trip!

A few random thoughts:

>>Edzell Castle (does any of you recommend it?).<< Yes - very definitely. Nice ruin in the middle of farmland w/ the most AMAZING small formal garden. The view down to teh garden from up in teh castle ruins is unique.

>>have a look at Craigievar Castle (I know you can’t go inside)<< Craigievar is probably my very favorite of all and I've been many times (back to the 70's-80's when one could still go out on the roof). BUT w/ it being closed this year, I'd probably skip it. It is a lovely wee, fairytale looking place -- but you are going to see so many other tower house examples. Maybe play it by ear, if you have the time, pop over - otherwise pass it by.

>>Castle Fraser (it took long to select this one, what do you think of it?)<< Its very nice and definitely worth a visit.

>>the Bullers of Buchan<< Absolutely 100% YES (even if you can't get to Slains AND don't do birding. Very dramatic)

>>House of Bruar << Bring LOTS of cash :)

>>Fortingall<< Different than anyplace else you'll see - thatched cottages even. But it doesn't take long. Pretty scenery around/about.

>>The Crannog Centre<< Very interesting - well worth the time.

>>Stone Palace<< Do you mean Scone Palace?

>>Loch Leven Castle<< IF you have the time - yes. Being out on the loch it is a different experience than any of the others on your list.

I'd definitely try to fit in Crathes Castle. Maybe instead of Craigievar and and one or two others. The castle is worth it by itself -- but it also has one of the very best gardens in Scotland (in the entire UK for that matter).

Hi Janis, thanks a lot for your thoughts. A couple of comments:

>>Stone Palace<< Do you mean Scone Palace?
I do mean Scone Palace :-)

>>I'd definitely try to fit in Crathes Castle. You'd recommend it over Drum, and the others in the surroundings?

I might recommend it over Fraser (reluctantly) - But then its garden is one of my favorite places in Scotland.

The June Border won't be at its best -- but the roses and everything else will be in full bloom.

http://tinyurl.com/ksuxbc

Hard decision

OK, thanks a lot.
Have you experienced Cairngorm Reindeer Centre, Rothiemurchus Estate, or Highland Wildlife Park?

I have been to the reindeer center. It was OK, but very touristy, with Santa's cottage. LOL

Enjoyed the Highland Wildlife Park much more, and learned a great deal there about Scottish wild life.

Another place in that area, you might look into, is the funicular Cairngorm Mountain Railroad. It is a very scenic trip, and beside the stunning views, an excellent restaurant awaits you at the top.

Dunnottar castle is fantastic, but requires a strenuous climb up to the entrance. Worth it, though!

Near Dunkeld, check out The Hermitage Woods - beautiful path through a serene woods, with a triple waterfall and a fantastic bridge.

I think Fraser Castle is great. We hit it on a fine sunny day and could go to the top and survey the countryside. Drum is interesting because it's a melange of building styles, but as a photo op Crathes is nicer.

Thanks for all your replies!
I think I will choose the Highland Wildlife Park over reindeers...
I am still considering Crathes Castle, and also The Hermitage Woods sounds great

We found the Highland Folk Museum in Newtonmmore to be very interesting, but there were very few other visitors there that day (early May during the week). We spent quite a bit of time talking to one of the guides because there were no other tourists requiring her attention.

I also second the Cairngorm Mountain Railway - and particularly if it is a clear day.

Alby, I'm not going to add to your original itinerary. You've done a good job.

I will comment on the castle quandary. Crathes is a small (relatively) fairytale-like castle that a person might easily see themselves living in and the gardens, as mentioned, are superb. It does, however, seem to get more visitors than either Fraser or Drum which tour groups generally ignore. Fraser is one of my favorites also as is Drum Castle, the ancestral home of the Irvines. The keep at Drum has wonderful views and the library is fabulous. All three castles are fairly close together,so you might be able to visit a couple of them, if time allows. You really can't go wrong whichever one you choose.

One more comment. When visiting the Crannog Centre plan enough time not only for the tour but also for the hands on activities.

I was thinking you are missing Crathes Castle on your list. The gardens are amazing. I haven't been to Castle Fraser though. Yesterday we went to Fyvie Castle. I prefered Crathes over it. Dunnottar is amazing, as is Glamis (my favorite). Glamis is a big one, so maybe a smaller one like Crathes would be nice. Both have beautiful gardens. I don't think you will go wrong though really. I don't think I've been to a castle that I wished I hadn't gone to yet.

I think I have a question now. Drum Castle or Castle Fraser if having to choose? Might fit one in sometime. Mother in law's maiden name is Fraser, but for some reason father in law doesn't want to take her there. Oh, and he says the Highland Wildlife Park is great.

Thanks a lot, amelie! I hope you are enjoying your trip, and that the weather is helpful!
I think I will check out Highland Wildlife Park and Crathes for sure... (I just hope I don't overdo it, fitting too many castles in my short week).
Castle Fraser looks wonderful in guidebooks,but I think it looks similar to Fyvie.

Some photos I took at Crathes Castle last August:

http://www.kodakgallery.com/ShareLan...localeid=en_US

I did a great long answer to this on Friday morning but it disappeared when I tried to post it.

I think you have picked a great route, and have only a few things to throw in.

On the Homecoming Pass, I spoke to visitscotland who told me it was the first time anyone had raised the issue with them. They are phoning Historic Scotland to see if anything can be done. I have volunteered to collect them and post them to you, but ONLY if I can get them in the North East (I'm making a point here. When I told her the 4 pick up points seemed a little central belt orientated, she said there's one at Castle Urquhart, and then paused as she realised that that, the closest was 125 miles from me. I also told her we refer to the A9 as "the North East by-pass)))



I haven't been into Braemar Castle since it was taken over by the local community trust, but it used to be very basic inside.

I, too, like Craigievar, but I'm not sure I'd make the detour if I couldn't go in. I, too, think you should see Crathes. I was going to suggest Castle Fraser as a reason for the detour, but you have sorted that out for the next day. I was going to say that I think Castle Fraser is probably MY pick of the bunch, but (pace Amelie's report made just yesterday), I really like Fyvie too.

You might like to think about a walk around the Linn of Dee as an alternative to Loch Muick.

I would probably counsel missing out Forvie. I think you'd be frustrated by it. But do drop in at Collieston, next door, before you go onto the Bullers.

The Farming Museum is at Aden, near Mintlaw, not at Peterhead.

Another outdoor option on Speyside is the Osprey centre at Loch Garten. They have CCTV up into the eyrie.

The ruiny person would probably like the barracks at Kingussie.

I think it sounds great. Have a super trip

Sheila, really thanks a lot for your support, you are incredibly kind.
My trip starts on August 4th, so it's probably too late to have the pass posted to me anyway, but I really appreciate your efforts and hope they will be helpful to someone else. I have ordered the pass and, if nothing new happens, will collect it in Stirling.

There seems to be universal consensus on Crathes here, so I'll definitely check it out.
Thanks a lot for all other suggestions, I'll keep them in mind, particularly the Kingussie barracks.

I really hope this is going to be a great trip, and I will post a trip report... hopefully before the next 6 years!

Ok. IF they ever phone me back, I will explain further. Would you mind emailing me your real name in case I need it for explanatory purposes?

Alby, they phoned back, and , to be fair, they tried, but... the suggestion was that if you could tell them which Historic Scotland things you wanted to see, they would authorise you to enter those properties on the Pass. That clearly won't work, so I guess it'll have to be Stirling

Some photos I took in The Hermitage Woods:

http://www.greendragonartist.com/Gal...ntownWood2.jpg

http://www.greendragonartist.com/Gal...WoodsSteps.jpg

Thanks a lot, Sheila, then Stirling will be.

Thanks to you as well, Greendragon, the Hermitage Woods look truly wonderful!