Hi, Ant -
loved the 2nd episode especially the restaurant report; looking forward to more!

Regards

Ann

Florence – Day 3


We slept in until noon. NOON. I know, I know. DF and I are both so exhausted from our jobs alone, not to mention all the running around and eating/drinking. The shutters at our hotel block the light a little too well – it was pitch black at noon! I dragged us both out of bed, and we were of course, starving. We walked around by the Duomo and stopped in a café that looked ok until the food arrived and it was NASTY. Just the spinach wraps alone were freezing cold and the wrap just tasted like flour that hadn’t been cooked. To top it off, as we were sitting there watching our extra-rude waiter be rude to everyone around us, a pigeon came flying right in the door and flew all over the restaurant! I wanted to cry.

We had until this point trying to work out whether we wanted to go to Siena for the day, but it kept raining on and off so we decided that if we were going to be outside getting wet we may as well do it where we are within reach of the hotel if we needed to call it quits and go back for a rest. So we stayed in Florence and my DF let me shop.. and shop.. and shop  Did I mention he is a saint? He told me that it was my day, and I was all museum-ed out, so I was happy to go and spend lots and lots of money that I actually don’t have in my bank account. Oops.

First stop was at Marketa Centrale where we walked all over the indoor and outdoor market. In the food markets we saw what was likely a group of American students on their school orientation. I suppose that is where they will go to shop for their dorms. Then we walked around the stands outside. It was pretty empty out there, but I still made sure that my purse was glued to me and DF had my back. Nothing obvious, we just wanted to be careful since I was carrying my camera in there. We were totally fine. I scoped out the scarves, checking out prices to get an average before I went in for a purchase. I found 3 beautiful mohair/silk chunky scarves that were brightly colored, so beautiful! They wanted 8 Euros each so I told her I’d offer her 6. She really tried to hold firm but I reminded her how empty the market was that day and that she should probably take my money while she was being offered it since I could get similar scarves at another stand. Her eyebrows flew up and she relented (score!) The best part was when she asked me how I learned how to bargain like that! Definitely one of the highlights of my trip  I told her I am from NY and work in sales, so negotiating is what I do all day long. It’s kind of funny how far pointing out the obvious can get you sometimes.

We stopped at a few boutiques with brand names (Diesel for DF, Max & Co. for me where I bought AWESOME high heels with stitching threaded all around), and some boutiques that were clearly only in Italy. I bought a couple more gifts and then we went back to our favorite wine bar (Verrazzano) to kick back for a bit. Febrize was expecting to see us again, and this time he really did it up. He piled our plates high with cheese, salami and wild boar, and brought us 2 glasses each to taste and compare from his portfolio. We ended with a glass of Vin Sante. Yum.

So my aunt and uncle had just come back from Italy a little less than 6 months ago with beautiful leather coats that they had custom tailored while they were there. Of course I was all about it, so I asked the concierge to recommend me a shop and he told me to go to Bemporad right down the block which was a store that had been there for over a century. It was definitely old-school – 4 older gentlemen that were impeccably dressed overseeing FIVE rooms of furs, leathers and cashmere coats. I didn’t really know what I wanted so I started picking through some very different types of coats and finally settled on a gorgeous shearling that goes past my knees. It’s got a really funky collar that can tie up 3 ways and large stitching running through the whole coat. DF’s face totally changed when I put it on, and he more than anyone sold me on it. I love clothes more than I can explain, but I have never in my life spent this much money on anything (I nearly hyperventilated when they rang me up). But like DF kept reminding me, I will be wearing it for the rest of my life 

Later we went back to Buca S. Giovanni for dinner. What a nice surprise to find out that the owner had already pre-selected the entire menu AND the wine for us! The wine was a Sangiovese/Cabernet blend that was beautiful. It turns out that a group of men who were dining nearby were hunters and they had hunted a wild boar just that day and brought it into the restaurant to be cooked! As it turns out, the owner had arranged for us to be served some of what they were having from the boar. All he told me was that it was the best part of the boar, but I didn’t dare ask which part that was! The first course was antipasti made with the boar and some cheeses, then they brought us a dish of papardelle with a side of the boar, so we added it to the pasta and it was unbelievable. All Gianni kept saying to us was how this was such a delicacy and what treat we were in for to be eating it that night. Gianni’s guest that night was named Dalida. She was a great woman that did wedding planning in Florence (how cool, right?) kept saying that we were probably never going to have another meal like this again. She kept trying to tell DF and I that when we decided to get married to call her and she’d arrange for our wedding in Florence. DF and I couldn’t even look at each other, it was so funny watching him squirm!

Dessert was a cupcake filled with rice and topped with cream, alongside a dessert wine. Dalida and Gianni wanted us to go with them to a piano bar after dinner, but they were going to be in the restaurant for a few more hours closing up. I hated to say no, but we were wiped and had so much packing to do as we were to return to Rome the next day. I have a great pic of DF lying in the bed with his sunglasses on to block out the light and listening to his IPod while I was up til all hours packing.

More later…

Hi AntInNewYork, I am still so enjoying your trip report. Your coat sounds fabulous! I don't know about you but it seems to me when it rains in Italy it is usually much colder than when it rains where I live which is N California. BTW, the hotel where you had your champagne was probably the Hotel Savoy, a very lovely hotel!

Hey LoveItaly (me too!) thanks for stopping in again. Yes, it was the Hotel Savoy! How funny. It was pretty chilly - just damp even when it wasn't raining. It kind of cuts right to the bone and you find yourself darting into the nearest cafe for some cappucino. And thanks, the coat is fabulous (!) I've worn it as much as possible - it's such a great feeling when someone compliments you on your clothes and you can say you got it in Italy...kind of the motherland of fashion, isn't it?

Florence/Rome – last days

We finished packing and hit the street to find the tax counter where I could get some American cash back, according to my well-dressed friends at Bemporad. It seems that when you spend a certain amount of Euros in one store, there’s something about tax-free money that you can get back. I had to fill out all these forms at the store and was told to get to this counter to get my money back which luckily was right down the block from our hotel.

Three counters later (they all said “Change”) I finally found the one I needed. DF was uber-cranky at this point, so he took a time-out on the street with his IPod while I dealt with the counter guy who was very interested in having a conversation and finding out my whole life story for some strange reason. I got my money ($165- whoo hoooo!) and we hit a nearby café for some cappuccino. We had to stay close since we had just a little under an hour until our cab arrived to take us to the train station so we went back over to have another look at the Duomo. Then we walked to Piazza Della Signoria to see the David replica which is outdoors.

The train ride out of Florence was very quiet. DF and I barely spoke at all. I guess the reality had finally set in that there was less than 24 hours for us to be together in this amazing country. It was raining steadily the whole way to Rome which was such a shame because I really would have liked to see the countryside in the sunshine. It would likely have been a much prettier ride.

We checked back into the Eurostars International Palace and it seemed as though we had been placed in an older wing of the hotel. We didn’t realize there were renovations going on until we walked through a confusing hallway that seemed to be in the midst of some repair. While our beds were softer (thank goodness), the room itself was kind of old and depressing. Maybe it was just the rain combined with our moods.

We grabbed the umbrella and headed out for our last walk around Rome. It was raining just on and off, so nothing too terrible. Our first stop was the Trevi Fountain so I could take some pictures with my camera (I didn’t have it with me the first day). We hadn’t had lunch, so we sought out a spot for some wine and cheese. I didn’t care for any of the places we saw right in front of the Trevi as they were packed with tourists and likely would have been rip-offs, so we continued down toward the Pantheon and found a nice place nearby. DF wanted to try a local wine so we strayed away from Tuscany and went with a blend of Merlot/Cab/Pinot Nero that I didn’t much care for. The antipasti platter was fine, but after having what we had in Florence, it didn’t quite match up. However, the place was really nice and I liked that both the wine list and all of the wine bottles set up on the walls were divided by region. Possibly a dish off their full menu would have been better.

We walked around a bit more so I could buy some little shirts for my Goddaughter and new cousin-to-be and then stopped in some Scottish dive pub for a beer. I had offered to buy my DF a beer because we still being so wonderful about letting me shop  Afterward we stopped at a market across from the hotel for some beer and water. By then it had started to rain again, unfortunately. It was no warm rain, let me tell you!

All week long we had said that we’d be going to some grand dinner that last night but between the rain, the train ride and the late snack, we were done. I was disappointed since I’d been looking forward to wearing a dress again after looking and feeling so schlubby all week but we decided just to go around the corner to the first little bistro we’d gone to in Rome the weekend prior (Hostaria Vineria). I wore my dress anyway – I needed to feel like a human being again! Such a rebel, I know.

Dinner was strange, to say the least. The restaurant had run out of chicken! Fully run out of chicken. How do you run out of chicken on a Friday night? They would go out of business in a place like New York. Seriously, we’re not asking for the moon and the starts here people, but when a large portion of your menu is comprised of chicken, don’t you notice when you’re low? Yikes. I ended up with rigatoni with a tomato basil sauce – basic but good, and DF had a lamb that tasted alright but was not particularly tender. We split a bottle of Agnolioco (sp?) that I liked. The waiter wasn’t particularly wonderful with helping us with wine, so I just took a stab and thankfully guessed right. After that afternoon in the café, I really wanted to go out on a high note with the wine. The waiters felt bad as we’d had trouble ordering due to the lack of poultry (and the other 2 dishes we tried to order) and bought us each a limoncello. I’m not a fan, but it was a nice gesture. What was cute was that they gave us an extra umbrella to walk back to the hotel with when they noticed we had only one. I handed it to the concierge when I got back to return to the restaurant.

Rome Cabs was right on time the next morning. It poured rain the whole way out, but we had a better drive this time, as he took us by the Colosseo so we could get another look. The ride was done in near silence. I couldn’t believe it was over – the whole week was such a blur and I wasn’t even on the plane yet.

We checked in with no problems, but were running around trying to find the counter for me to turn in these tax-free forms. They sent us from one counter to another and my frustration with that just added to my sadness at leaving. Here’s a tip: the tax-free counter is AFTER security! All of the running back and forth was for nothing, as nobody bothered to tell me to pass through security first. Ugggh.

I had to eat as I was ready to pass out, so we headed upstairs to the food court for some cappuccino and paninni. DF bought some newspapers, and we chilled out a bit watching the rain fall. So similar to the way I had left New York. DF walked me down to security and we had a very sad good-bye as I didn’t know at that point when I’d see him again (we are looking at May now, which is great). Alone for the first time in days, I made my way over to the tax free area (only to be bounced to another counter-go figure!) The Italian man who dealt with me was so rude, and I didn’t understand his directions to get my envelope into a nearby mailbox. He must have thought I was the stupidest American alive, but hey – I was in no state to deal right then.

I took the monorail over to my gate, which was quite far. Chick tip: DON’T get too excited about all of the shopping that is available after security unless you have time to spare! The monorail/finding your gate process can take a while! I purchased another sandwich to take with me on the plane for later on, which was a smart move. The food leaving Italy was worse than coming over, not sure how it’s true but it was. On the plane I was seated next to a cute girl from Bari who was 2 years younger than me. My family on my father’s side is from Bari, so I wanted to speak to her but unfortunately she spoke just a little more English than I did Italian. This was not saying a whole lot, people. Let’s all picture nine and one half hours spent mostly with us working off of our phrase books to converse. Exhausting, I tell you! But she was with a group of coworkers, one of whom spoke some English and had asked me to help her. Who was I to say no? Thank goodness for the movies they showed, because I was clear out of conversation after a while.

Landing, baggage claim, customs was all a blur and I’ve now been settled back in for about two weeks. I’m looking forward to getting back to Europe sooner rather than later, just wish it weren’t such an expensive endeavor! My next trip will be wine country, or Amalfi – something a bit more relaxing than hoofing it all over two cities sightseeing. Don’t get me wrong, it was great BUT I need a vacation from my vacation!

Hope you enjoyed reading this crazy trip report as much as I’ve enjoyed writing it!

Great 1st report. I am much older than you and have spent 1 week in Rome which was great. Returning in May to go to Rome,but include Venice and Florence this time which will not nearly be enough time,but that is only an excuse to plan another trip. It will be much more enjoyable for you to plan in weather that will be warmer and less rain. Keep traveling while you are young. Wish I could have done more at that time.

Ant - This is a wonderful report and you sound like you and DF really enjoyed your trip. Thanks for the great details!

Hi again AntInNY, yes knowing you are leaving Italy is depressing but being able to return in May is a WOW! Good for you. And than you can buy some fantastic summer clothes! I know a lot of Fodorite's don't seem to like to shop for clothes in Italy but let me tell you I have several wonderful dresses from Italy and always get asked about them when I wear them. And isn't it fun to say "oh, I purchased this in Italy, lol". Bad us!

BTW, the tax is the VAT tax. And they don't make it easy to claim it. In fact last trip I forgot to (maybe on purpose?? ;;) A stupid decision no doubt but I just didn't take the time.

May should be beautiful Ant..and the Amalfi Coast would be wonderful. I sure hope it all works out for you and your friend. He sounds like a wonderful travel companion. Thanks again for the fun and enjoyable report.

I must have phrased it wrong- I am not going back in May :( DF is coming here :) He's got biz in CA and is doing a long weekend in NY to see me. So we'll be together but unfortunately not in my happy place of Italy.

Thanks for reading!

Wonderful report!

You do a great job of describing crankyness while traveling...made me laugh.

Really enjoyed your report. Any pictures?

thanks for sharing!

Hi Ant, I misunderstood, sorry! Well I am glad your and you will be able to get together soon and I really do hope you are able to return to Italy just as soon as possible.

Hi all, thanks for reading my trip report. I'm so happy that people enjoyed it!

Camelbak, I do have pics but I don't know how to share..?

I also wrote another thread called "maybe this will help?" wherein I detailed my notes I took prior to the trip for Rome/Florence. These notes mostly not written by me. I compiled them from different reviews on a whole lot of travel websites, ideas from friends/family, etc. If you're going to Italy anytime soon you may want to hit that thread up (just click on my name if you're not familiar with this site).

Hi Ant,

Thoroughly enjoyable posts. My wife and I are doing Italy (Venice-Florence-Rome) in May and Verrazzano sounds like a great restaurant to take in during our week there. I've tried to Google it to no avail and was wondering if you could locate it on Google Maps and post the link.

TIA
Nick

Ant, I really enjoyed your report. That coat sounds fantastic! When I was in Rome over Christmas, Alitalia lost my luggage for five days, so I had to do some shopping. Fun! I know what you mean, you can only start planning to go back.

Hi Nick,

Did you mean Verrazzano or Buca Giovanni? The only reason I ask is because Verrazzano is only a wine bar, I don't remember them having a full menu.

Buca S. Giovanni is located at Piazza S. Giovanni, 8. Telephone is 055.287612.

Cantinetta di Verrazzano (I may have listed it as Castello di Verrazzano which is the actualy winery - sorry) is located at Via dei Tavolini, 18-20r, Tel: 055.268590.

Susan I'm sorry to hear about your Alitalia experience. I can honestly say that I would have lost my mind if that had happened to me simply because I was having a hard time with the clothing sizes in Italy. Most of the tops that were supposedly my size (and this included many coats) were simply too tight across the back, and I'm not even a particuarly wide person. I would have had a hard time replacing the contents of my suitcase.

Awesome report. As a NYer, I was jealous to read about 60 degree weather in early Feb, even though we were close to 60 yesterday.

Sorry you had so much rain...

Thanks, Mc. It was a great way to break the cold spell we'd had a few weeks back. The rain was definitely a damper (ok, no pun intended), but the trade-off was that we escaped the hordes of annoying tourists, the lines, the pickpockets, etc. and just had our run of the cities. Not to mention $489 r/t from JFK on Alitalia :)

Buca S. Giovanni it was. Too much trying to multi-task on my part. :)

I hear you, Nick. I think I've given myself ADD over the years trying to do too much at once.

Check out the wine bar though, and make sure that you get the meats from the wild boar, so much tastier than you'd imagine! Get the seat by the window and take a break.