Mussels in Paris
I posted this previously under an itinerary thread...I am looking forward to having mussels in Paris. Has anyone eaten at the chain Leon de Bruxelles? Features mussles & other seafood reasonably priced. We like good food but don't want to break the bank - we are mostly street food & cafe diners; family of 4 traveling w/ 2 teenage girls.
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Hi,
I actually have eaten at Leon de Bruxelles. It was good. The restaurant looks more like a chain restaurant in its' decor and menu. They prepare the mussles in many ways i.e. wine or beer or whatever. The mussles arrive in some sort of a cast iron bucket. They come with french fries, a drink and dessert. I think from your description of yourself you will be happy. Enjoy, Yipper |
Yipper-
Thanks so much! We have 3 dinners in Paris and so glad to have one buttoned down. My family really like Le Deux Maggot last time probably because it was close to the hotel and we could escape smoke sitting outside. Any other recs for casual budget friendly dining welcome! Thanks! |
I eat at <i>Léon de Bruxelles</i> about twice a month. One of the best things about it is the fact that the mussels are always of a guaranteed size; this makes a big difference depending on the season. Other restaurants will sometimes give you a mixture with too many small mussels.
Other good places for mussels in Paris are <i>Au Trappiste</i> right at the beginning of rue Saint Denis at Place du Châtelet. Also the various <i>Taverne du Maître Kanter</i> around Paris have good mussels. These other places are better options if anybody with you has no interest in mussels, because <i>Léon</i> has a very limited menu if you don't eat mussels. |
Kerouac - this is good to know as I was completely put off eating mussels in St.Malo. Teeny little things full of sand! Just awful.
Only once before did we have mussels the way I like them - cooked in garlic, white wine, parsley and finished off with creme fraiche. That was in a marina somewhere on the French Riviera many many moons ago! I look forward to Leon de Bruxelles in May. magrb: I thought Deux Magots was rubbish. Dreadfully overpriced. Many many better places off Blvd.St.Germain like: Aux Charpentiers, 10 rue Mabillon, Tel: 01 43 26 30 05. No terrace however but you can ask about smoking. Bistrot de la Grille, 1 rue Guisarde, Tel.01 43 54 16 87 Even Brasserie Lipp, 151 Blvd St.Germain. 01 45 48 53 91 (Across the road from Cafe de Flore) |
Another suggestion for mussels came from a Fodors poster some time back and I noted in my Paris guide - Maison Blanche in front of Gare de Nord.
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I had the best bowl of steamed mussels ever at a little Greek restaurant in Place Monge. For the life of me can't remember the name of it but I remember those shells!!!
Bon Appetit. |
Charlot Roi des Coquillages
http://www.cityzeum.com/en/charlot-roi-des-coquillages It's been a very good source for fresh seafood and shells. Maybe it's a bit higher than what you want to pay but this is (1) very good food, and (2) a lot of ambiance. Charlot 2 is located on the Place de Clichy. Blackduff |
Thanks - I am making my list! Le Deux Margot fit the bill (literally) at the time for Croques M. & Mme & Caprese salad. Location & smoke free was our most important criteria with 2 kids then 9 & 13. They may want to go again for "old times sake".
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Mussels are the one instance where high volume might be preferable (2 billion hamburgers, or whatever the figure, is not attractive), because it suggests that they have had been out of the water for a relatively short time. In that regard, Léon de Bruxelles is the right place to have mussels.
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I remember reading that during the summer (or spring... or something) the mussels in Paris are imported from PEI - does anyone know the season for mussels in Paris or elsewhere in France?
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The BBC says that mussels can only be eaten for months with the letter of "R". So, May wouldn't a good month.
http://www.bbc.co.uk/food/in_season/february.shtml In reality though, France serves mussels all summer in the Mediterranean. The French mussels turn to be smaller than the Spanish mussels. There are others which come from the North Sea too. I've never seen mussels from PEI around my area. I think that they cannot be frozen for transport across the ocean. Blackduff |
The "R" rule was apparently put in place by Louis XIV, when keeping mussels fresh was a big problem in the warm months while being carried by horse carriage to Paris. This is no longer a problem and you can enjoy mussels every month of the year.
Léon de Bruxelles often puts little tags on its mussel pots to inform you where they come from. They usually come from the Netherlands or Belgium, but sometimes they come from Italy or Greece. Tod, the mussels you like are called "moules à la crème." The version without the cream is called "moules marinières." But most places usually have about 5 or 6 different variations available. |
Blackduff
The only problem with eating mussels or oysters in springtime is that they spawn and are "fatter" than usual. Some people do not like it. The "Spanish mussels" (moules d'Espagne) are not necessarily imported from Spain (just as "Italia" grapes do not come from Italy)but are raised locally around the Med. It is the name of the variety. They are eaten grilled with herbs or ailloli or stuffed with meat (moules à la sétoise) or else raw. For moules marinières, one uses the much smaller "moules de bouchot" from the Atlantic Coast. |
I'm pretty sure what Spanish looks like. I take a fairly good choice in my area. Most of the restaurants buy moules, which are from a supplier in Montpellier, since it's already cleaned.
The Spanish moules take me about an hour to clean a kilo. The barnacles and beards have to be cleaned and trimmed before it hits the pot. All of the French moules are much smaller than the Spanish version. All in all, they serve you a pot of mussels, pommes frites and a dessert for 9 euros. I'm going to try to post my mussel recipe list. If you're into cooking mussels, you'll like some of these. Blackduff |
Au Trappiste in the Chatelet is great...get a beer and enjoy the rushed waiters
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Here's a few recipes. The best is with the Coconut milk. Whether you cook or order, it gives an idea of what you're going to be served.
Enjoy Coconutmilk Mussels Now that they are back in season (just) in the UK, I bought 3 lbs yesterday for supper (for 2). Here's what I did: 3lb cleaned scrubbed mussels 1 small onion finely chopped 1 small chilli finely chopped 2 stalks lemon grass finely sliced 1 clove garlic crushed 1 tbsp Thai Red Curry Paste 1 can coconut milk 1 handful roughly chopped coriander In a large pan, I softened onions, chili and lemongrass for 3/4 minutes then I added the garlic and Curry Paste and continued frying for a further 3/4 minutes then I added the coconut milk and let that come up to the boil then I turned up the heat and added the mussels and banged the lid on for a few minutes, shaking the pot to ensure they all took a turn at the bottom then I checked they were all open and added the coriander, shook it all up again and served with some crusty bread then I fell asleep as I had eaten too much - MrsSKOTCH said it was the nicest way she'd ever eaten mussels enjoy Skotch --------------------------------------------------------------- Moules en Sauce Submitted by: Kasienko Makes 4 servings Prep Time: 30 Minutes Cook Time: 20 Minutes Ready in: 50 Minutes Average Rating: ***** 0 Ratings 0 Reviews " A simple recipe for mussels typical mussel recipe from the Breton coast in France. Creme fraiche is available in many supermarkets, but if you cannot find it, a mixture of sour cream and Neufchatel cheese will also work. Serve with a dry white wine. " ADD: to Meal Plan | Pantry | Nutri·Planner™ Print: 3x5 | 4x6 | full page Add: to Recipe Box | to Shopping List Email: Recipe | a Recipe Ecard Convert: Metric | U.S. Standard View: Reviews | Notes | Nutrition Info Ingredients 2 quarts mussels - cleaned and debearded 2 tablespoons butter 2 large onion, peeled and sliced into rings 3 stalks celery, cut into 1/2 inch pieces 1 1/2 cups dry white wine 2 sprigs fresh thyme 2 bay leaves salt and pepper to taste 1/2 cup creme fraiche 1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley Directions 1. In a large frying pan, melt the butter over medium heat, and cook until it is just beginning to turn brown. Add the onions and celery to the pan, and cook just until the onions are clear. 2. Place mussels in pan, and stir. A few minutes after the mussels start releasing their juice, pour wine over them. Add the sprigs of thyme and the bay leaves; stir, then add salt and pepper. Continue to cook for about 10 more minutes, stirring frequently. 3. Once all of the mussels are open, stir two large spoonfuls of creme fraiche into the sauce. Divide mussels and sauce between four bowls, and add a bit of parsley and another very small spoonful of creme fraiche for decoration. Makes 4 servings Scale this Recipe to servings Recipe Scaling Help Find Similar Recipes French International Main Dishes Mussels Shellfish Nutrition at a glance Servings Per Recipe: 4 amount per serving Calories 303 Protein 11.3g Total Fat 17.8g Sodium 434mg Cholesterol 80mg Carbohydrates 11.5g Fiber 2g --------------------------------------------------------------------- Mussels in Curry Cream Sauce Submitted by: Kerry Makes 4 servings Prep Time: 40 Minutes Cook Time: 15 Minutes Ready in: 55 Minutes Average Rating: ***** 4 Ratings 4 Reviews " Mussels steamed in a curry cream sauce, an easy and delicious recipe, you'll love it! " ADD: to Meal Plan | Pantry | Nutri·Planner™ Print: 3x5 | 4x6 | full page Add: to Recipe Box | to Shopping List Email: Recipe | a Recipe Ecard Convert: Metric | U.S. Standard View: Reviews | Notes | Nutrition Info Ingredients 1/2 cup minced shallots 2 tablespoons minced garlic 1 1/2 cups dry white wine 1 cup heavy cream 1 teaspoon curry powder 32 mussels - cleaned and debearded 1/4 cup butter 1/4 cup minced parsley 1/4 cup chopped green onions Directions 1 In a large saucepan, cook shallots and garlic in simmering wine until translucent. 2 Stir in cream and curry powder. When sauce is heated through, add mussels. Cover, and steam mussels for a few minutes, until their shells open wide. With a slotted spoon, transfer steamed mussels to a bowl, leaving the sauce in the pan. Discard any unopened mussels. 3 Whisk butter into the cream sauce. Turn heat off, and stir in parsley and green onions. Serve immediately. Makes 4 servings Scale this Recipe to servings Recipe Scaling Help Find Similar Recipes Cream Sauce Mussels Shellfish Nutrition at a glance Servings Per Recipe: 4 amount per serving Calories 432 Protein 6.4g Total Fat 35.5g Sodium 169mg Cholesterol 128mg Carbohydrates 9g Fiber 0.7g -------------------------------------------------------------------- Mussels Mariniere Submitted by: Christine Makes 4 servings Prep Time: 35 Minutes Cook Time: 15 Minutes Ready in: 50 Minutes Average Rating: ***** 17 Ratings 15 Reviews " This is a simple recipe. Most of the work is preparing the mussels; cooking takes very little time. When you have finished eating the mussels, dip bread in the buttery wine sauce. " ADD: to Meal Plan | Pantry | Nutri·Planner™ Print: 3x5 | 4x6 | full page Add: to Recipe Box | to Shopping List Email: Recipe | a Recipe Ecard Convert: Metric | U.S. Standard View: Reviews | Notes | Nutrition Info Ingredients 4 quarts mussels, cleaned and debearded 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 onion, chopped 6 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley 1 bay leaf 1/4 teaspoon dried thyme 2 cups white wine 3 tablespoons butter, divided Directions 1. Scrub mussels. Pull off beards, the tuft of fibers that attach each mussel to it's shell, cutting them at the base with a paring knife. Discard those that do not close when you handle them and any with broken shells. Set aside. 2. Combine onion, garlic, 4 tablespoons parsley, bay leaf, thyme, wine, and 2 tablespoons butter in large pot. Bring to boil. Lower heat, and cook 2 minutes. Add mussels, and cover. Cook just until shells open, 3 to 4 minutes. Do not overcook. Remove mussels from sauce, and place in bowls. 3. Strain liquid, and return to pot. Add remaining butter and parsley. Heat until butter melts. Pour over mussels. Makes 4 servings Scale this Recipe to servings Recipe Scaling Help Find Similar Recipes Appetizers Main Dishes Mussels Shellfish Steamed Nutrition at a glance Servings Per Recipe: 4 amount per serving Calories 280 Protein 18.6g Total Fat 10.1g Sodium 177mg Cholesterol 70mg Carbohydrates 7.9g Fiber 0.8g ---------------------------------------------------------------- Mussels Mariniere Submitted by: Christine L. Makes 4 servings Prep Time: 35 Minutes Cook Time: 15 Minutes Ready in: 50 Minutes Average Rating: ***** 1 Rating 1 Review " A wonderful mussel sauce served over a bed of noodles. " Print: 3x5 | 4x6 | full page Add: to Recipe Box | to Shopping List Email: Recipe | a Recipe Ecard Convert: Metric | U.S. Standard View: Reviews | Notes | Nutrition Info Ingredients 4 quarts fresh mussels 1 (16 ounce) package linguini pasta 3 tablespoons butter 1 onion, chopped 2 cloves garlic, minced 6 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley 1 bay leaf 1/4 teaspoon dried thyme 2 cups white wine Directions 1. Scrub mussels and pull off beards, cutting them at the base with a paring knife. Discard those that do not close when you handle them and any with broken shells. 2. Bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a boil. Add pasta and cook for 8 to 10 minutes or until al dente; drain and reserve. 3. Meanwhile, in a large skillet place 2 tablespoons butter or margarine, onion, garlic, parsley, bay leaf, thyme and wine. Bring to a boil and lower heat; cook for 2 minutes. Add mussels; cover and cook just until they open, 3 to 4 minutes. Do not overcook. 4. Divide pasta into 4 bowls and spoon mussels over noodles. 5. Strain mussel liquid, and return to pot. Add remaining butter or margarine and heat until it melts. Pour over mussels and serve. Makes 4 servings Scale this Recipe to servings Recipe Scaling Help Find Similar Recipes linguine pasta Mussels Seafood Seafood Sauce Shellfish Nutrition at a glance Servings Per Recipe: 4 amount per serving Calories 681 Protein 33.5g Total Fat 12.7g Sodium 182mg Cholesterol 70mg Carbohydrates 89.4g Fiber 4.6g -------------------------------------------------------------- Steamed Mussels II Submitted by: Stephano Makes 4 servings Prep Time: 15 Minutes Cook Time: 10 Minutes Ready in: 25 Minutes Average Rating: ***** 7 Ratings 5 Reviews " Less is more when it comes to cooking mussels! Use only fresh mussels, which are tightly closed when you buy them. If you can't find fresh mussels, make something else! Serve with slices of fresh crusty bread to soak up the delicious broth. " ADD: to Meal Plan | Pantry | Nutri·Planner™ Print: 3x5 | 4x6 | full page Add: to Recipe Box | to Shopping List Email: Recipe | a Recipe Ecard Convert: Metric | U.S. Standard View: Reviews | Notes | Nutrition Info Ingredients 2 tablespoons butter 1/4 cup shallots, minced 3/4 cup dry white wine 3 pounds mussels, cleaned and debearded 1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley ground black pepper to taste Directions 1. In a medium stock pot, heat butter over medium heat. Add shallots and saute until translucent. 2. Pour in wine and mussels. Raise heat to medium/high and steam mussels until shells open, about 5 minutes. 3. Pour mussels and cooking liquid into a serving bowl, sprinkle with parsley and freshly ground black pepper to taste. Serve immediately. Makes 4 servings Scale this Recipe to servings Recipe Scaling Help Find Similar Recipes 30 minutes or less 45 minutes or less Appetizers Main Dishes Mussels Shellfish Steamed Nutrition at a glance Servings Per Recipe: 4 amount per serving Calories 152 Protein 10.8g Total Fat 6.6g Sodium 111mg Cholesterol 42mg Carbohydrates 4.6g Fiber 0.3g ------------------------------------------------------------ Mussels with Garlic Stuffing You have to like your garlic for this one and, if you do, be sure to have lots of crusty fresh bread to mop up the delicious juices. Serves 4 4 pints (2.25 litres) cleaned mussels 3 cloves garlic, crushed 4 oz (110 g) butter, at room temperature 1 tablespoon lemon juice 1 heaped tablespoon chopped parsley salt and freshly milled black pepper * Click an ingredient to find out more Pre-heat the oven to gas mark 8, 450ºF (230ºC). Place the prepared mussels in a large wide, dry saucepan, cover and cook over a low heat (there's no need to add any liquid) until they all open. Remove and discard the empty half shells and throw away any mussels that haven't opened. Arrange the remaining mussels in their half shells in four individual heatproof dishes. Next, in a basin, combine the butter, garlic, lemon juice and parsley, season with salt and pepper and mix well. Place a small dab of the savoury butter on each mussel then put the dishes on the top shelf of the oven and cook for 5-10 minutes or until the mussels are sizzling noisily. Serve immediately, still sizzling and bubblin -------------------------------------------------------- Gratin of Mussels in Garlic Butter For me, mussels provide one of the most evocative flavours of the sea around – and at the lowest possible price. This gratin of mussels sizzling in their own juices and mingled with garlic butter is a truly sublime combination. Serves 6 as a starter or 3-4 as a light supper 2 lb 4 oz (1 kg) mussels 3 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed 6 oz (175 g) soft butter 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 shallot, peeled and finely chopped 6 fl oz (175 ml) dry white wine 1 tablespoon lemon juice 2 rounded tablespoons finely chopped parsley salt and freshly milled black pepper * Click an ingredient to find out more You will also need a solid, rimmed baking sheet measuring 10 x 14 inches (25.5 x 35.5 cm). First tip the mussels into a sinkful of cold water and, using a brush, give each one a scrub and pull off the little hairy beards. Discard any broken mussels and, if any are still open, give them a sharp tap with a knife to see if they close. If they don't respond and shut tightly, throw them away. When all the mussels are clean, swirl them around in more cold water to get rid of any last remaining bits of sand or grit. Now pre-heat the oven to gas mark 8, 450°F (230°C). Then heat the olive oil in a large, solid pan that will hold the mussels comfortably, add the shallot and cook it over a low heat for about 5 minutes, or until just soft. Next add the wine, and when it just comes up to the boil, tip in the prepared mussels and put on a close-fitting lid. Now, keeping the heat at medium, cook the mussels for about 5 minutes, shaking the pan once or twice. After that, remove the lid and, using a draining spoon, lift the cooked, open mussels out of the pan. Reserve the cooking liquid containing the precious juice that flows from the mussels as they open, and throw away any mussels that are still closed. Next, have ready a sieve lined with fine gauze, then strain the cooking liquid through it into a bowl, discarding the shallot. Now rinse out the pan, then return the liquid to it. Place the pan over a high heat and reduce the liquid down to about 2 tablespoons. This concentrates the lovely fresh sea flavour. Meanwhile pull away the top shells of the cooked mussels and discard them, then arrange the mussels in their half-shells on the baking sheet. Next, in a basin combine the butter, garlic, lemon juice and chopped parsley together with the reduced mussel cooking liquid. Then season well with salt and freshly milled black pepper. Now put a blob of the butter mixture on to each mussel, place the baking sheet on the top shelf of the oven and cook for 5-8 minutes, or until you hear the butter sizzling nicely. Serve them absolutely immediately on warm plates with lots of crusty baguette to dip into those wonderfully flavoured juices. ------------------------------------------------------------------ * Exported from MasterCook * MUSSELS DIJON Recipe By : Serving Size : 2 Preparation Time :0:00 Categories : Seafood Amount Measure Ingredient -- Preparation Method -------- ------------ -------------------------------- 2 lb Mussels 2 tb Green onions, finely choppe 2 x Garlic cloves, minced 1 t Shallots, finely chopped Ground black pepper 2 taste 1/2 c Dry white wine 1 c Dijon mustard 2 c Heavy cream 3 tb Minced parsley 1 French bread loaf * servings are 2 for main course or 4 for first course Scrub and debeard mussels. In large stockpot, combine green onions, garlic, shallots, pepper, wine and mussels. Heat to boiling, cover and steam covered for 3 - 5 minutes or until mussels open. With slotted spoon, transfer mussels to heated dish. Discard any unopened mussels. Stir mustard and cream into liquid remaining in kettle. Boil mixture, stirring constantly, for 3 - 5 minutes or until sauce is reduced by half and thickened. Return mussels to stockpot and add parsley. Stir to coat mussels with sauce. Serve with french bread to soak up sauce. --------------------------------------------------------------- Mussel Recipes There are a so many recipes for mussels whether fresh, in the half-shell or marinated, mainly because they are so easy to cook and look great on the plate. The fantastic colour contrasts of the orange or white mussel meats against the blue-black shells. Combined with pasta and tomatoes and you have a great looking dish that is very easy to prepare. Here are a few more of our favourite recipes below: CHILI MUSSELS serves 6 people. Ingredients: 2 kg fresh mussels 2 tins peeled tomatoes 3 small hot chillis or add chilli sauce to taste dollop of olive oil 3 garlic cloves, chopped coriander, chopped parsley Method: 1. Puree tomatoes and add chilli sauce and garlic to taste 2. In a very hot pot add 1 teaspoon of olive oil 3. Add mussels, cover and cook for 2 – 3 minutes until mussels open and flesh is firm 4. Pour off three quarters of the juice and add the sauce, coriander and parsley Simmer for 2 minutes 5. Serve in bowls with crusty white bread and chilled white wine SCOTTISH MUSSEL BROSE 6 Servings Ingredients: 2 tb (1/4 stick) unsalted butter 1/2 lb Leeks; white part only -finely sliced (about 2 cups) 1/2 cup Celery; white part only - finely sliced 6 shallots; finely chopped (about 1/3 cup) 8 Whole peppercorns 4 Whole allspice berries 1 Bay leaf 1/2 ts Dried thyme; crumbled 2 kg Fresh mussels; scrubbed and - debearded 1 l Bottle English dry hard -cider 1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter 1/4 cup plain flour 2 cups Whipping cream Nutmeg; freshly grated Salt and freshly ground -pepper Fresh chives; snipped Method: Melt 2 tablespoons unsalted butter in stockpot over medium-high heat. Add leek celery and shallots and sauté until wilted and just beginning to colour about 5 minutes. Add peppercorns allspice bay leaf and thyme and sauté 2 to 3 minutes to flavour vegetables. Add mussels and toss gently to blend. Pour in cider and bring to a simmer. Cover and steam 5 minutes. Remove opened mussels using slotted spoon and transfer to large bowl. Cover with damp cloth and keep warm. Continue cooking remaining mussels until opened about 5 minutes. Transfer opened mussels to bowl; discard any unopened mussels. Reserve broth. Remove mussels from shells. Reserve 2 shells for each serving of soup; discard remaining shells. Ladle reserved broth through strainer lined with several layers of moistened cheesecloth. Rinse and dry stockpot. Melt remaining 1/4 cup butter in stockpot over medium-high heat until foamy. Add flour and whisk 2 to 3 minutes. Blend in broth 1 cup at a time. Cook until mixture begins to thicken. Stir in cream nutmeg salt and pepper. Continue cooking until slightly thickened and very smooth. Reduce heat to low add mussels and stir until just heated through. Taste and adjust seasoning. Ladle soup into heated bowls. Garnish with reserved shells. Sprinkle with chives and serve. MUSSELS ON THE FRENCH RIVIERA Ingredients: 350 ml dry white wine 2 kg mussels,scrubbed & trimmed 1 ounce onion, chopped 1/2 tsp curry powder 1 1/2 tsp plain flour 150 ml fresh cream 5 grms butter Black pepper, ground as required Parsley sprigs as required Salt As required Method: Put the wine and mussels in a large saucepan and bring to a boil. Cover tightly and cook over high heat for 4 minutes, shaking the pan occasionally until the mussels' open. Remove the mussels from the shells, pouring their liquid back into the pan. Put the mussels into a bowl and keep aside. Boil the mussel liquid till it becomes half the quantity. Heat butter in a saucepan, add onion and cook, stirring occasionally till soft. Add the curry powder, flour and cook, stirring for 1½ minutes. Strain reduced mussel liquid and slowly pour into the onion mixture. Bring to a boil, simmer for 4 minutes and then stir in the fresh cream, salt and pepper and boil until lightly thickened. Stir in the mussels, garnish with parsley and serve. ------------------------------------------------------------------ |
Blackduff
I have the same choice, I live in the same area. Go to the Station de Conchyliculture on the road to Leucate to buy Spanish mussels, they are cleaned, fresh out of the water and sell for less than €2.50 a kilo. :-) |
Thanks for the place to get the mussels. That will please my back, since trying to clean these are tough.
Thanks again. It's not from my place ~ Sorede Blackduff |
Here's a happy mussel eater.
http://www.la-petite-reine-argeles.c...t%20chalut.jpg This was at a restaurant in Port Vendres, near the Spanish border. It doesn't get much better. Blackduff |
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