Murphy's Great Adventure Part II: Greece. Reflections, Tips and Some Embarrassing Bits Too...
Jul 10th, 2006, 04:13 PM
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Hi murphy, count me as one of your fans! Oh to be able to write and relate a trip like you do! Snakes, mopeds and Greek buses. You have a heart and guts my dear, lol!
A movie of your trip would indeed be fantastic..seriously.
A movie of your trip would indeed be fantastic..seriously.
Jul 10th, 2006, 06:50 PM
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You guys are so kind, thank you for the encouragement. Who should play me in the movie? Well, there is a picture of me somewhere in my France photos, so I’ll leave it to your imagination – lol! 
<font color="green">Pylos</font>
Pylos is a really pretty town. Really attractive. I enjoyed it because it is large enough that there are lots of options for walking/wandering and there are lots of things to occupy ones time in and around town. There are several beaches in the surrounding area – accessible by taxi or bus too. I stayed in a spectacular hotel - 12 Gods Rooms to Rent. Situated toward the top of Pylos, I still have trouble believing the price. For only 30 Euros/night I stayed in a lovely room with a big balcony overlooking the ocean - wonderful. Pylos sits on the famed Navarino Bay, where Ali Pashas ships were destroyed in the war of independence. There is a boat tour around the bay to the various war memorials dedicated to the French, British, Russians etc. The boat tour was about 8Euros, spending time with the chain-smoking boat driver – “priceless”. He really was such a nice fello! I would have enjoyed it more with a different group however. This one consisted of 3 extended families. Between them they had 9 children ranging in age from 1-7. Call me a curmudgeon, but I just don’t enjoy other people’s children that much. There must be scientific evidence linking exposure to people who coo and blubber at babies and acute migraine headaches.
The landscape in this region is very beautiful and there is excellent hiking to be had around Pylos and neighboring Giolova. Unfortunately, I had the same problem with Pylos as I had with Koroni - the bus. It was the only place I traveled in the Peloponnese where the bus was always late and where <font color="purple">it seemed like monkey’s had collaborated on the schedule.</font> Contributing to the problem: 1. A useless station agent 2.Easily one of the most difficult bus drivers of all time
. Using the bus in Pylos was a massive hassle and frustration. All of the buses for the area seemed to show up at the same time, dump off their passengers and leave as fast as possible. In the meantime I would sprint from bus to bus trying to find out which was the one I needed – due to the time pressure, I would just ask the bus driver (yikes). Meanwhile, the station agent is sitting there sipping coffee and having a smoke (fully aware of what bus you need) – heaven forbid she get up off her ass to help – not even a vague gesture to hint at what bus you should be trying. I realize this isn’t her job, but is it a little help too much to ask? Apparently it is, because she watched me miss the bus several times over the next three days (she even watched me miss it twice one day). I was so put off by the bus service/routes that I finally just left Pylos 2 days early.
Note: In case I’ve been to harsh on bus personnel I have to say that many of them were very nice. The bus was a big part of my trip – I spent a lot of time either on a bus or waiting for a bus, so I suppose it can’t help but be irritating some of the time.
Methoni.
I didn’t leave Pylos before day-tripping to the fortress at Methoni though. Thank goodness - incredibly worthwhile. This site is really amazing. I arrived first thing in the morning and found myself the only person present. No staff supervising, nobody else at all present. As a result I got some pretty amazing photographs of this particular site (I will post some of them). The structure is amazingly intact – massive walls, a Turkish bathhouse, ramparts, a church, tunnels and an impressive assortment of other buildings and a little island fortress seem to have weathered the years quite well all considered. The only thing that annoyed me about Methoni is that is was free. I know - how terrible. Really though, a site of this caliber should not be free. I think visitors should pay an entrance fee that will go toward the preservation and upkeep of the site. To me this is preferable to getting in free, only to navigate through a kastro that hasn’t had any landscaping done at all. I don’t mean pretty French gardens. I mean the ability to explore an incredible piece of history without wading through knee-high grass, rat pooh and giant spider webs. It did look like someone ran a lawn mower around as an attempt to make a path, but outside of that you explored at your own risk. The stairs up to the ramparts were crumbling in places, but otherwise the ramparts were in great shape. The Turkish bath house stands lovely and intact – I stood appreciating that until I saw that snake (or squiggly stick thing). I promptly left. There are amazing tunnels and lower access points – you can see them, but try to ignore those spider webs I dare you. I found this at many of the kastros in the Peloponnese – these places are expensive to restore and take care of. So why are they free? That is part of the reason I enjoyed Mystras so much – the building were cleaned out and accessible to even the squeamish. All of that being said, if you have the chance to see Methoni – do go. It is amazing. Just be sure to wear hikers and pants – you can stick to the strictly mowed path if you don’t want to explore further. Go early and give yourself a few hours - 2 or 3, to do the site justice.
That is it for the Peloponnese! Stay tuned for my jaunty to Nafpaktos and Delphi. Then it is off for some more island fun…
<font color="green">Pylos</font>
Pylos is a really pretty town. Really attractive. I enjoyed it because it is large enough that there are lots of options for walking/wandering and there are lots of things to occupy ones time in and around town. There are several beaches in the surrounding area – accessible by taxi or bus too. I stayed in a spectacular hotel - 12 Gods Rooms to Rent. Situated toward the top of Pylos, I still have trouble believing the price. For only 30 Euros/night I stayed in a lovely room with a big balcony overlooking the ocean - wonderful. Pylos sits on the famed Navarino Bay, where Ali Pashas ships were destroyed in the war of independence. There is a boat tour around the bay to the various war memorials dedicated to the French, British, Russians etc. The boat tour was about 8Euros, spending time with the chain-smoking boat driver – “priceless”. He really was such a nice fello! I would have enjoyed it more with a different group however. This one consisted of 3 extended families. Between them they had 9 children ranging in age from 1-7. Call me a curmudgeon, but I just don’t enjoy other people’s children that much. There must be scientific evidence linking exposure to people who coo and blubber at babies and acute migraine headaches.
The landscape in this region is very beautiful and there is excellent hiking to be had around Pylos and neighboring Giolova. Unfortunately, I had the same problem with Pylos as I had with Koroni - the bus. It was the only place I traveled in the Peloponnese where the bus was always late and where <font color="purple">it seemed like monkey’s had collaborated on the schedule.</font> Contributing to the problem: 1. A useless station agent 2.Easily one of the most difficult bus drivers of all time
. Using the bus in Pylos was a massive hassle and frustration. All of the buses for the area seemed to show up at the same time, dump off their passengers and leave as fast as possible. In the meantime I would sprint from bus to bus trying to find out which was the one I needed – due to the time pressure, I would just ask the bus driver (yikes). Meanwhile, the station agent is sitting there sipping coffee and having a smoke (fully aware of what bus you need) – heaven forbid she get up off her ass to help – not even a vague gesture to hint at what bus you should be trying. I realize this isn’t her job, but is it a little help too much to ask? Apparently it is, because she watched me miss the bus several times over the next three days (she even watched me miss it twice one day). I was so put off by the bus service/routes that I finally just left Pylos 2 days early. Note: In case I’ve been to harsh on bus personnel I have to say that many of them were very nice. The bus was a big part of my trip – I spent a lot of time either on a bus or waiting for a bus, so I suppose it can’t help but be irritating some of the time.
Methoni.
I didn’t leave Pylos before day-tripping to the fortress at Methoni though. Thank goodness - incredibly worthwhile. This site is really amazing. I arrived first thing in the morning and found myself the only person present. No staff supervising, nobody else at all present. As a result I got some pretty amazing photographs of this particular site (I will post some of them). The structure is amazingly intact – massive walls, a Turkish bathhouse, ramparts, a church, tunnels and an impressive assortment of other buildings and a little island fortress seem to have weathered the years quite well all considered. The only thing that annoyed me about Methoni is that is was free. I know - how terrible. Really though, a site of this caliber should not be free. I think visitors should pay an entrance fee that will go toward the preservation and upkeep of the site. To me this is preferable to getting in free, only to navigate through a kastro that hasn’t had any landscaping done at all. I don’t mean pretty French gardens. I mean the ability to explore an incredible piece of history without wading through knee-high grass, rat pooh and giant spider webs. It did look like someone ran a lawn mower around as an attempt to make a path, but outside of that you explored at your own risk. The stairs up to the ramparts were crumbling in places, but otherwise the ramparts were in great shape. The Turkish bath house stands lovely and intact – I stood appreciating that until I saw that snake (or squiggly stick thing). I promptly left. There are amazing tunnels and lower access points – you can see them, but try to ignore those spider webs I dare you. I found this at many of the kastros in the Peloponnese – these places are expensive to restore and take care of. So why are they free? That is part of the reason I enjoyed Mystras so much – the building were cleaned out and accessible to even the squeamish. All of that being said, if you have the chance to see Methoni – do go. It is amazing. Just be sure to wear hikers and pants – you can stick to the strictly mowed path if you don’t want to explore further. Go early and give yourself a few hours - 2 or 3, to do the site justice.
That is it for the Peloponnese! Stay tuned for my jaunty to Nafpaktos and Delphi. Then it is off for some more island fun…
Jul 10th, 2006, 07:42 PM
#45
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It's hard to see your face in the photo but I'm thinking that maybe the girl who was Claire on Six Feet Under could play the movie Murphy after you write the book. A combination of red-headed beauty and talent and vulnerability and angst and klutz. Does that sound like you?
Jul 10th, 2006, 08:39 PM
#46
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Wow moolyn - the beauty part is pretty generous. How far back in that shot was I standing? - lol! 
quot;>
Probably that Claire girl from Six Feet Under would help ticket sales more than an exact Murphy replica though.
Murphy
quot;> Probably that Claire girl from Six Feet Under would help ticket sales more than an exact Murphy replica though.
Murphy
Jul 11th, 2006, 03:28 AM
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Glad you were amused rather than offended by my casting choice, Murphy.
You write with so much interesting detail. Did you keep a journal as you travelled? I did and took hundreds of photos but my June 2006 Dordogne trip report is still in the organizational stage. And it won't be as compelling as yours because I was in total bliss the whole time I was there. I really like your oh so honest report because I wish I could have travelled through Europe on my own when I was your age so I'm living vicariously through you.
You write with so much interesting detail. Did you keep a journal as you travelled? I did and took hundreds of photos but my June 2006 Dordogne trip report is still in the organizational stage. And it won't be as compelling as yours because I was in total bliss the whole time I was there. I really like your oh so honest report because I wish I could have travelled through Europe on my own when I was your age so I'm living vicariously through you.
Jul 14th, 2006, 10:59 AM
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You guys rock! I'm back to start polishing off this puppy. I've already started planning my next trip, so I better get this done
Moolyn, no I didn't keep a journal. I'm afraid I don't have the patience. Someone here recommended a little tape recorder though - that seems like a good idea for future trips. This is just by memory which is why I've already failed to mention the riots in France and a few train strike stories.... Oh well, I'll have to jot down those points seperately somewhere for my own sake.
<font color="green">Nafpaktos</font>
When planning my trip, I always wanted to get to Nafpaktos – I just didn’t think I had time for it. Having made an early break from Pylos though, I decided “what the heck” and gave over the better part of a day to reach it. I traveled from Pylos to Kalamata - had a minor coronary by almost missing the connecting bus to Patras, then caught another bus from Patras to Nafpaktos. I managed to arrive in Nafpaktos around 2:00pm. Not to bad considering the distance. Nafpaktos is a large town with quite a bit of green space and big leafy tree lined boulevards. Once a fortified city/town it still has a crowning fortress, and its harbour walls remain intact. There are two long beaches in town - rough sand if memory serves. It was a nice stop - I thought one day would have done the trick though. All the shops were completely closed the days I was there (by 2:00 on Sat and all day Sun), which was really unfortunate. I saw some great sunsets here and I think the town is best appreciated by wandering around in its narrow upper streets and by people watching at one of its many many trendy cafes. Not a large range of tavernas but one from my guide was good.....O Stavros - on the waterfront. Not a huge number of things to do per se, it was still still too cold to swim - though windsurfers made good use of the windy weather.
<font color="blue">The Trendy Café</font>
Although on the whole I consider myself a confident person, I am not a fan of the trendy café. I am just not cool enough and don’t have the patience to pretend otherwise. I was never comfortable in cities/towns that were inundated with these types of establishments. Of course this feeling was just accentuated by sitting all alone. Considering every café in Greece is an outdoor café, I couldn’t help but feel self conscious walking by the scores of well turned out hipsters you have to pass by to get anywhere. I was only really happy with a place if there were a few basic taverna’s to quietly people watch and rest my weary feet. Nafpaktos doesn’t really fit the bill in this respect – too cool for Murphy.
Warning: There are TWO bus stations in Nafpaktos. Coming from Delphi you will hit one and will likely leave Nafpaktos from the other so be sure to ask!
<font color="green">Delphi</font>
Famous Delphi. The ancient Greeks would have been hard pressed to find a prettier setting that’s for sure. I left Nafpaktos on the early morning bus and arrived in Delphi around noon, thanks to an annoying bus transfer in Itea. Yet I still had plenty of time to wander through ancient Delphi and its small museum. I didn’t beat out the crowds however and the only thing that made the site tolerable was that it was still off-season so the tour groups ebbed and flowed somewhat. I enjoyed my visit - it was a nice misty day, good for pictures and good for hiking. I stayed overnight and whittled away the afternoon with a hike and stroll around town. Actually, considering the stairs in modern Delphi, that would be a stroll around the hills and a hike through town. Modern Delphi is ok – overpriced though and full of touristy shops. Who is buying all of those museum replicas? It is worth staying a night if you have one handy – just for the joys of the scenery and for a visit to neighboring Arahova. I never did make it to Arahova due to a shameful amount of apathy. I was really having trouble getting motivated for some reason. The regret set in when I passed it in the bus the next day – oh dear, it looked nice.
<font color="blue">Murphy All Museumed Out and a Little Lonely Too</font>
By this point I was really museumed out. Also pretty much churched out. This didn’t turn around for the rest of the trip. Unlike France where church doors are unlocked and you feel relatively free to poke your head in and wander around quietly. In Greece, church doors were mostly locked and when they weren’t I found it hard to know whether you were allowed in or not. I stopped trying to visit churches all together – not willing to go to a big effort just to view the exterior, especially when Greek churches do not vary much in outward appearance. As for museums, it’s embarrassing but honestly a lot of the items seemed the same from museum to museum and overall, I am far more intrigued by the spaces in which people lived than I am by the items they owned. I planned on all of these museums etc in my itinerary and was slow to organize myself into other activities instead. You know when you sit around with you friends and everyone takes turns saying “what do you want to do?” – “I don’t know, what do you want to do?”….and this goes on and on, wasting all kinds of time? I started to do this within myself. I really felt a lack of motivation setting in.
I was also starting to miss the English language and really, really wanted to meet some other travelers. What I would have done for a conversation that wasn’t reduced to a language lesson - even the simple comfort of eves-dropping on someone else’s conversation would have sufficed. I have a new appreciation for how isolating language can be. Hotels are nice, but do not lend themselves to meeting other backpackers. I didn’t see many tourist at all while I was in the Peloponnese – April is still off season. I was starting to question my itinerary – maybe I should head for a more “touristy” destination. During the planning phase I had shunned the very thought of “touristy” places (which was bit high minded considering I was a tourist). Now I started to think I missed the boat a bit. I very seriously considered ditching my Northern Aegean plans (airfare and all) to hit popular Rhodes instead. I wanted other tourists and lots of specific “things to do”. Luckily, I didn’t have my guidebook info on Rhodes, having ripped out only the sections I needed before I left home. Thus, I decided it was best to stick to the plan – I had after all spent hundreds of hours carefully crafting this itinerary and reading up on my chosen destinations. On the other hand, can you believe I didn’t go to Rhodes because I didn’t have those guidebook pages with me? That is sad and depressing to admit.
Time to shake things up - its off to the Lesvos and amazing Chios!!
Moolyn, no I didn't keep a journal. I'm afraid I don't have the patience. Someone here recommended a little tape recorder though - that seems like a good idea for future trips. This is just by memory which is why I've already failed to mention the riots in France and a few train strike stories.... Oh well, I'll have to jot down those points seperately somewhere for my own sake.
<font color="green">Nafpaktos</font>
When planning my trip, I always wanted to get to Nafpaktos – I just didn’t think I had time for it. Having made an early break from Pylos though, I decided “what the heck” and gave over the better part of a day to reach it. I traveled from Pylos to Kalamata - had a minor coronary by almost missing the connecting bus to Patras, then caught another bus from Patras to Nafpaktos. I managed to arrive in Nafpaktos around 2:00pm. Not to bad considering the distance. Nafpaktos is a large town with quite a bit of green space and big leafy tree lined boulevards. Once a fortified city/town it still has a crowning fortress, and its harbour walls remain intact. There are two long beaches in town - rough sand if memory serves. It was a nice stop - I thought one day would have done the trick though. All the shops were completely closed the days I was there (by 2:00 on Sat and all day Sun), which was really unfortunate. I saw some great sunsets here and I think the town is best appreciated by wandering around in its narrow upper streets and by people watching at one of its many many trendy cafes. Not a large range of tavernas but one from my guide was good.....O Stavros - on the waterfront. Not a huge number of things to do per se, it was still still too cold to swim - though windsurfers made good use of the windy weather.
<font color="blue">The Trendy Café</font>
Although on the whole I consider myself a confident person, I am not a fan of the trendy café. I am just not cool enough and don’t have the patience to pretend otherwise. I was never comfortable in cities/towns that were inundated with these types of establishments. Of course this feeling was just accentuated by sitting all alone. Considering every café in Greece is an outdoor café, I couldn’t help but feel self conscious walking by the scores of well turned out hipsters you have to pass by to get anywhere. I was only really happy with a place if there were a few basic taverna’s to quietly people watch and rest my weary feet. Nafpaktos doesn’t really fit the bill in this respect – too cool for Murphy.
Warning: There are TWO bus stations in Nafpaktos. Coming from Delphi you will hit one and will likely leave Nafpaktos from the other so be sure to ask!
<font color="green">Delphi</font>
Famous Delphi. The ancient Greeks would have been hard pressed to find a prettier setting that’s for sure. I left Nafpaktos on the early morning bus and arrived in Delphi around noon, thanks to an annoying bus transfer in Itea. Yet I still had plenty of time to wander through ancient Delphi and its small museum. I didn’t beat out the crowds however and the only thing that made the site tolerable was that it was still off-season so the tour groups ebbed and flowed somewhat. I enjoyed my visit - it was a nice misty day, good for pictures and good for hiking. I stayed overnight and whittled away the afternoon with a hike and stroll around town. Actually, considering the stairs in modern Delphi, that would be a stroll around the hills and a hike through town. Modern Delphi is ok – overpriced though and full of touristy shops. Who is buying all of those museum replicas? It is worth staying a night if you have one handy – just for the joys of the scenery and for a visit to neighboring Arahova. I never did make it to Arahova due to a shameful amount of apathy. I was really having trouble getting motivated for some reason. The regret set in when I passed it in the bus the next day – oh dear, it looked nice.
<font color="blue">Murphy All Museumed Out and a Little Lonely Too</font>
By this point I was really museumed out. Also pretty much churched out. This didn’t turn around for the rest of the trip. Unlike France where church doors are unlocked and you feel relatively free to poke your head in and wander around quietly. In Greece, church doors were mostly locked and when they weren’t I found it hard to know whether you were allowed in or not. I stopped trying to visit churches all together – not willing to go to a big effort just to view the exterior, especially when Greek churches do not vary much in outward appearance. As for museums, it’s embarrassing but honestly a lot of the items seemed the same from museum to museum and overall, I am far more intrigued by the spaces in which people lived than I am by the items they owned. I planned on all of these museums etc in my itinerary and was slow to organize myself into other activities instead. You know when you sit around with you friends and everyone takes turns saying “what do you want to do?” – “I don’t know, what do you want to do?”….and this goes on and on, wasting all kinds of time? I started to do this within myself. I really felt a lack of motivation setting in.
I was also starting to miss the English language and really, really wanted to meet some other travelers. What I would have done for a conversation that wasn’t reduced to a language lesson - even the simple comfort of eves-dropping on someone else’s conversation would have sufficed. I have a new appreciation for how isolating language can be. Hotels are nice, but do not lend themselves to meeting other backpackers. I didn’t see many tourist at all while I was in the Peloponnese – April is still off season. I was starting to question my itinerary – maybe I should head for a more “touristy” destination. During the planning phase I had shunned the very thought of “touristy” places (which was bit high minded considering I was a tourist). Now I started to think I missed the boat a bit. I very seriously considered ditching my Northern Aegean plans (airfare and all) to hit popular Rhodes instead. I wanted other tourists and lots of specific “things to do”. Luckily, I didn’t have my guidebook info on Rhodes, having ripped out only the sections I needed before I left home. Thus, I decided it was best to stick to the plan – I had after all spent hundreds of hours carefully crafting this itinerary and reading up on my chosen destinations. On the other hand, can you believe I didn’t go to Rhodes because I didn’t have those guidebook pages with me? That is sad and depressing to admit.
Time to shake things up - its off to the Lesvos and amazing Chios!!
Jul 14th, 2006, 11:47 AM
#51
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You know Murphey I admitted the same lonliness sentiment in my report of my Feb. trip, and that was on;y 3 days in. But then I realized how great it was to be alone and travelling in a foreign country, something not everyone will do. So you are FABULOUS and 20-something(right?) for being an adventurous soul,better to travel alone then not at all. Keep the report coming.
Jul 14th, 2006, 12:05 PM
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laartisa, thank you for the continued feedback! I loved your Feb trip report (I've been meaning to tell you that) - I tried to mirror your wonderful sense of humor when I was on my trip. I even thought of you as I was loading about 30 bars of soap into my backpack before heading home.... You are so right - even the worst day on my trip beat the heck out of being at home. Don't hold off on travel until your friends have the same money and the same time off - you could wait forever that way. Just go.
Finishing off Lesvos - will post shortly.
Cheers,
Murphy
You are so right - even the worst day on my trip beat the heck out of being at home. Don't hold off on travel until your friends have the same money and the same time off - you could wait forever that way. Just go.Finishing off Lesvos - will post shortly.
Cheers,
Murphy
Jul 14th, 2006, 12:16 PM
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I do know the feeling of museumitis (also churchitis). There comes a point where you are on overload and cannot see anything anymore. Even at The Hermitage or The Louvre, where I have spent a solid day at a time (and you really have to to see anything), the way to do it is to take a break. You either go to the Cafe and have lunch or just sit down and look through a guide book for a half hour to get a second wind.
When I have been abroad for a month or longer, there does come a point where I won't go into another museum or church unless there is really something special about it. I remember spending a month on a home exchange in the Loire Valley once. I saw 18 chateaus over the month. I never did more than one a day for viewing (and maybe another one in the evening for a special event such as a concert). I read about these people trying to do 3 in a day. I do wonder what they are seeing because most of the time they must be on a forced march.
Part of the pleasure of European travel sometimes is just taking time out to relax. That is one reason I love doing home exchanges there. You are not on a schedule and, if you want to take a day off to catch up on sleep, do laundry, read a book and have lunch in a local cafe, you can.
When I have been abroad for a month or longer, there does come a point where I won't go into another museum or church unless there is really something special about it. I remember spending a month on a home exchange in the Loire Valley once. I saw 18 chateaus over the month. I never did more than one a day for viewing (and maybe another one in the evening for a special event such as a concert). I read about these people trying to do 3 in a day. I do wonder what they are seeing because most of the time they must be on a forced march.
Part of the pleasure of European travel sometimes is just taking time out to relax. That is one reason I love doing home exchanges there. You are not on a schedule and, if you want to take a day off to catch up on sleep, do laundry, read a book and have lunch in a local cafe, you can.
Jul 14th, 2006, 12:22 PM
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Murphy, I'm really enjoying your trip report. I've spent a lot of time in the Peloponese since I married into a family from Patras. The first time I visited in 1998 I had never been to Europe before and Greece was way diffrent from my Nova Scotia home and I found it so isolating not knowing any Greek I can only imagine how hard it was for you because at least I did have my boyfriend to talk to. I just felt left out of the conversations while we were in Patras I still do sometimes but at least I know some Greek now. The first time I went to Nafpaktos it was for a baptismal in a small village up above the town I had a guy ask my husband's cousin where my Father was because he was interested in marrying me and wanted to know what it would take to get the deal done. Although we live in the US now I'm so glad to have a home in Patras and a reason to visit Greece as much as I can. I can't wait for the rest of your report because Lesvos and Chios are in my tentative plans for next year.
Jul 14th, 2006, 02:56 PM
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Hi Murphy,
Loved the latest installment
I completely agree with your assessment of modern Delphi. We spent 2 nights there and I about went nuts (full report on that breakdown in my trip report if I ever get to the Delphi part!).
I also know what you meant about the musuems... I mean, I know that every single vase is unique but I can't help myself. After the 200th, I just don't care to see any more! DH is more of a museum buff and can spend an infuriatingly long time in even the smallest exhibits. We had "a talk" after Olympia where we agreed to just split up and go separate ways for a couple days on future trips so he can spend dawn to dusk indoors while I get to wander the streets soaking in ambience and getting to know each place.
Loved the latest installment
I completely agree with your assessment of modern Delphi. We spent 2 nights there and I about went nuts (full report on that breakdown in my trip report if I ever get to the Delphi part!).
I also know what you meant about the musuems... I mean, I know that every single vase is unique but I can't help myself. After the 200th, I just don't care to see any more! DH is more of a museum buff and can spend an infuriatingly long time in even the smallest exhibits. We had "a talk" after Olympia where we agreed to just split up and go separate ways for a couple days on future trips so he can spend dawn to dusk indoors while I get to wander the streets soaking in ambience and getting to know each place.
Jul 14th, 2006, 04:11 PM
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Glad to see I am not the only one to get tired of vase, after vase, after vase - lol! That is exactly it - I stopped going to churches and museums unless they were of particular interest to me or special in some way (although even then I didn't always make it).
Trish it must give you such a unique perspective on the countary to be married to a fellow from Patras!
LOL TexasAggie!
I have to hear about Delphi. I hope the "talk" you had with your DH blew over quickly.
Thanks again guys for sticking with my report!
Okay folks - Lesvos it is....
<font color="green">Fantastic Lesvos!</font>
It turns out I managed to meet a few people on the bus from Delphi to Athens. There was a little pack of Canadians on the bus – 2 were even from my city! It was lovely – we chatted happily for the entire journey and beyond. Coincidentally, the couple from my town were heading out to Rhodes (on the flight I very nearly booked), so we decided to help each other find our way from Terminal B to the nearest metro station. It was all so delightful. I was a sponge, soaking the conversation in – I likely came off a little desperate though.
It was a lovely morning, until I got to the airport and saw the length of the Olympic Airways line-up. Then panic started to set in. Oh man, I am going to miss my flight. One girl checking everyone in. One girl! For crying out loud!!!!! I very nearly did miss that flight. On the plus side, between the panic attack and the airport sprint I must have sweated off at least two pounds.
<font color="green">Lesvos</font>: Mytilini Town
I flew to bustling Mytilini Town and stayed the night at uninspiring Hotel Lesvion on the waterfront. The location was great, but it was a bit pricy at 40Euros/night.
Mytilini Town reminded me of Nafpaktos – where are the restaurants? Where is the sustenance beyond coffee? I even pulled out my guidebook suggestions but was never able to find any of them. Lots of trendy café goers in Mytilini Town. There is however, great shopping in the tiny backstreets and the waterfront allows for some rather attractive pictures. I was thrilled to check out an English flick at the movie theater too – what a treat!
Molyvos
To think I almost didn’t go to Lesvos. What a mistake that would have been. I loved Lesvos. I loved my time there – and glorious Molyvos was my favorite of all the Greek towns I visited. What a jaw dropper. Molyvos tumbles down the sides of a steep hill, its crowning kastro drawing your eyes skyward. No whitewash houses here, just beautiful stone and red tiled roofs. Magnificent Molyvos. I had the most incredible hotel too. I splurged and stayed at the Sea Horse Hotel (42Euro/night) right on the waterfront. Big clean rooms, a lovely balcony and all amenities – it was great. 42Euros was hefty for me, but I got the room for about half price due to the season – so it really was a steal of a deal. Molyvos had some lovely stores - lots of quaint little shops that lend to browsing. I am sorry I didn’t buy more there actually - some of the jewelry was very reasonably priced.. Beautiful, narrow cobblestone streets with shady vine trellises’, great views from the town and of course from its kastro. Though my guidebook mentions a “narrow pebble beach” in town, there is also a nice sand stretch if you follow the coast westward a bit. The best restaurant meals are not at the waterfront, but are tucked away inland. My personal favorite was a little place called Gatos – on the main shopping street about 3 streets inland. Great meals and perfect views at a reasonable price. I imagine the town gets plenty of visitors in the summer. Even in early May there were a fair number of tourists. It was just perfect when I was there though. The weather was grande, the scenery lush and green - Molyvos tugs at my heart strings.
<font color="blue">Baklava Belly</font>
I consider myself quite a connoisseur of the Baklava pastry. Having sampled it pretty much every single solitary day for two straight months. That I still managed to loose weight is a testament to how much physical activity I engaged in during this trip. That is my recommendation actually. I recommend you eat what you want but do be mindful of the waistline and those pesky yet helpful coronary arteries. Hit those stairs (as if you have a choice), hike up to those kastros, walk don’t drive to that neighboring town and all the while smile – you’ve just earned your Baklava for the day!
By the way, IMHO the best baklava comes in small, compact pieces – I favor the more dense type over the giant loosey-goosey cake sized pieces that are sometimes served
<font color="green">Petra</font>
Luckily Molyvos is only 6km from Petra, so you can walk there – even better you can rent a bicycle! Yes, there is a bicycle rental place in Molyvos! It was sadly the only non-motorized bike rental place I saw in Greece. So I was all over the bike rental. Now there is a reason the bicycle hasn’t caught on like wildfire – Greece is very mountainous and full of hilly terrain. Lesvos is no exception. That didn’t stop me however (I have a baklava to earn after all) and I hopped on my bike for a peddle to Petra my first morning in town. Now this sad excuse for a 28 year old body has been traveling for 2 months so I considered this bike ride a litmus test for how much I’d managed to shape up. Pretty good overall – my muscles groaned but survived. The ride was really, really hilly, but I felt exhilarated with my new mode of transportation! In some ways travel can get monotonous and something new to shake you out of your complacency is a welcome relief. This was a wonderful day. Once I got to Petra the area was flat and I ripped around on my 10 speed, just enjoying the physicality of it all. There is a lovely little church atop a rocky outcrop in the middle of town (you can’t miss it) – it has posted opening hours so provided you are appropriately dressed you are welcome to see inside. Petra has a long stretch of golden sand, but it’s not really my kind of beach – too public and there was a bit of garbage and flotsam about. The town is ok – nothing particularly special I thought, pleasant enough for a stop and walk about.
<font color="red">Lesvos: Get a Car or Take a Hike! – Literally.</font>
To bus anywhere you pretty much need to be in Mitilini so that doesn’t really work if your staying elsewhere. Be prepared to rent a car – even for just a day or two. It is well worth it. By car you can stop in all the amazing little villages Lesvos had to offer. I rented a car for one day (two would have been better) and outside of that – I rented a bicycle twice (not for the faint of heart) and chose to walk long distances to everything else. Molyvos is 6km from Petra and 5 from Eftoulu for anything else you need a car.
Next up: More Lesvos and Chios too!
That is exactly it - I stopped going to churches and museums unless they were of particular interest to me or special in some way (although even then I didn't always make it). Trish it must give you such a unique perspective on the countary to be married to a fellow from Patras!
LOL TexasAggie!
I have to hear about Delphi. I hope the "talk" you had with your DH blew over quickly.Thanks again guys for sticking with my report!
Okay folks - Lesvos it is....
<font color="green">Fantastic Lesvos!</font>
It turns out I managed to meet a few people on the bus from Delphi to Athens. There was a little pack of Canadians on the bus – 2 were even from my city! It was lovely – we chatted happily for the entire journey and beyond. Coincidentally, the couple from my town were heading out to Rhodes (on the flight I very nearly booked), so we decided to help each other find our way from Terminal B to the nearest metro station. It was all so delightful. I was a sponge, soaking the conversation in – I likely came off a little desperate though.
It was a lovely morning, until I got to the airport and saw the length of the Olympic Airways line-up. Then panic started to set in. Oh man, I am going to miss my flight. One girl checking everyone in. One girl! For crying out loud!!!!! I very nearly did miss that flight. On the plus side, between the panic attack and the airport sprint I must have sweated off at least two pounds. <font color="green">Lesvos</font>: Mytilini Town
I flew to bustling Mytilini Town and stayed the night at uninspiring Hotel Lesvion on the waterfront. The location was great, but it was a bit pricy at 40Euros/night.
Mytilini Town reminded me of Nafpaktos – where are the restaurants? Where is the sustenance beyond coffee? I even pulled out my guidebook suggestions but was never able to find any of them. Lots of trendy café goers in Mytilini Town. There is however, great shopping in the tiny backstreets and the waterfront allows for some rather attractive pictures. I was thrilled to check out an English flick at the movie theater too – what a treat!
Molyvos
To think I almost didn’t go to Lesvos. What a mistake that would have been. I loved Lesvos. I loved my time there – and glorious Molyvos was my favorite of all the Greek towns I visited. What a jaw dropper. Molyvos tumbles down the sides of a steep hill, its crowning kastro drawing your eyes skyward. No whitewash houses here, just beautiful stone and red tiled roofs. Magnificent Molyvos. I had the most incredible hotel too. I splurged and stayed at the Sea Horse Hotel (42Euro/night) right on the waterfront. Big clean rooms, a lovely balcony and all amenities – it was great. 42Euros was hefty for me, but I got the room for about half price due to the season – so it really was a steal of a deal. Molyvos had some lovely stores - lots of quaint little shops that lend to browsing. I am sorry I didn’t buy more there actually - some of the jewelry was very reasonably priced.. Beautiful, narrow cobblestone streets with shady vine trellises’, great views from the town and of course from its kastro. Though my guidebook mentions a “narrow pebble beach” in town, there is also a nice sand stretch if you follow the coast westward a bit. The best restaurant meals are not at the waterfront, but are tucked away inland. My personal favorite was a little place called Gatos – on the main shopping street about 3 streets inland. Great meals and perfect views at a reasonable price. I imagine the town gets plenty of visitors in the summer. Even in early May there were a fair number of tourists. It was just perfect when I was there though. The weather was grande, the scenery lush and green - Molyvos tugs at my heart strings.
<font color="blue">Baklava Belly</font>
I consider myself quite a connoisseur of the Baklava pastry. Having sampled it pretty much every single solitary day for two straight months. That I still managed to loose weight is a testament to how much physical activity I engaged in during this trip. That is my recommendation actually. I recommend you eat what you want but do be mindful of the waistline and those pesky yet helpful coronary arteries. Hit those stairs (as if you have a choice), hike up to those kastros, walk don’t drive to that neighboring town and all the while smile – you’ve just earned your Baklava for the day!
By the way, IMHO the best baklava comes in small, compact pieces – I favor the more dense type over the giant loosey-goosey cake sized pieces that are sometimes served
<font color="green">Petra</font>
Luckily Molyvos is only 6km from Petra, so you can walk there – even better you can rent a bicycle! Yes, there is a bicycle rental place in Molyvos! It was sadly the only non-motorized bike rental place I saw in Greece. So I was all over the bike rental. Now there is a reason the bicycle hasn’t caught on like wildfire – Greece is very mountainous and full of hilly terrain. Lesvos is no exception. That didn’t stop me however (I have a baklava to earn after all) and I hopped on my bike for a peddle to Petra my first morning in town. Now this sad excuse for a 28 year old body has been traveling for 2 months so I considered this bike ride a litmus test for how much I’d managed to shape up. Pretty good overall – my muscles groaned but survived. The ride was really, really hilly, but I felt exhilarated with my new mode of transportation! In some ways travel can get monotonous and something new to shake you out of your complacency is a welcome relief. This was a wonderful day. Once I got to Petra the area was flat and I ripped around on my 10 speed, just enjoying the physicality of it all. There is a lovely little church atop a rocky outcrop in the middle of town (you can’t miss it) – it has posted opening hours so provided you are appropriately dressed you are welcome to see inside. Petra has a long stretch of golden sand, but it’s not really my kind of beach – too public and there was a bit of garbage and flotsam about. The town is ok – nothing particularly special I thought, pleasant enough for a stop and walk about.
<font color="red">Lesvos: Get a Car or Take a Hike! – Literally.</font>
To bus anywhere you pretty much need to be in Mitilini so that doesn’t really work if your staying elsewhere. Be prepared to rent a car – even for just a day or two. It is well worth it. By car you can stop in all the amazing little villages Lesvos had to offer. I rented a car for one day (two would have been better) and outside of that – I rented a bicycle twice (not for the faint of heart) and chose to walk long distances to everything else. Molyvos is 6km from Petra and 5 from Eftoulu for anything else you need a car.
Next up: More Lesvos and Chios too!
Jul 15th, 2006, 09:57 AM
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<font color="blue">Lesvos cont….</font>
<font color="green">Beach Weather?</font>
I learned one or two surprising things about myself on this trip. One of the most surprising being that I am a beach person. A beach person - me. It’s so surprising. I gave no thought to beaches when I planned my itinerary. I vaguely assumed that it would be too cold to swim in April, but figured it would improve quickly in May and June. I was a little off the mark. The water was too cold for swimming in April but it only started to improve in <italic>late</italic> May. Even then it was only for the hardy – by mid June I thought the water was fine, but then I had been trying to swim since April so I was accustomed to really frigid water. I will say that it is getting in the water that hurts – once your in the temp improves quickly. Judging by the number of other swimmers though, clearly not many of us managed to get past the initial shock.
In May however, the water temp really bothered me. It’s hot outside, so you want to swim, but then the water is cold and/or the wind picks up and is immediately discouraging. Also, nobody else is in the water so you sort of stand out – which I also don’t enjoy. Once I arrived on Santorini and found myself surrounded by inviting shores, all I wanted to do was go to the beach and became obsessed with it over the next two months. As such I don’t think I would return to shore-lined Greece before mid May in the future. If you think you may have this problem lurking in your psyche, and you are heading to Greece in the spring, consider central Greece and Macedonia first, moving toward the islands and coast last in hopes of warmer water. It turns out I would sacrifice a few more crowds for swimming weather and a more inviting water temperature. It is something to seriously consider.
<font color="green">Eftoulu</font>
I managed to swim in Lesvos thank goodness and there were even a few others braving the water temperature. I couldn’t help myself. There is a marvelous pebble beach in Eftoulu, over by the heated bath house. Walk beyond that igloo looking structure and you can stop for a swim or sunbath in any of the coves that are tucked away along the shoreline. Parents be forewarned: some nude bathers at far end and the water is deep (which I like for myself). The beach at Eftoulu is 5 kms northeast of Molyvos - you can walk or bike (hills people, hills). I spent an entire day just lounging around on the warm stones working on my sunburn. My dermatologist would balk. It was delightful.
<font color="green">Day Trip to Skala Sikaminias: Teenagers Are Annoying in Every Countary.</font>
I could have done without this trip. Skala Sikaminias is a tiny, tiny fishing village northeast of Molyvos. I did a boat excursion for 10 Euros through my hotels travel agency. The boat ride was nice – or rather it would have been nice if the dark clouds and ferocious wind hadn’t kicked in. The weather cleared a bit by the time we got to Skala Sikaminias itself – visibility was certainly good enough that we could see the plague..I mean hoarde…I mean group of junior high-school aged children that had descended on the place. My eyes involuntarily rolled skyward. With good reason though. We docked and got a better look at this group and realized there were at least 4 bus loads of kids running around – not a teacher or planned activity in sight. The boat was scheduled to pick up back up in 5 hours, so I set off in search of lunch and something to do. Lunch was a bothersome affair. Stuck next to a group of snotty, ill-behaved teenage boys I contemplated that this day-trip was maybe not have been the best of ideas. These boys kept luring in cats by offering them food, only to kick them and pick them up by their tales. It was disgusting. I asked them to stop in broken irritated Greek. Of course they though that was hysterical. To add to the issue, the restaurant was packed and my dinner took forever to arrive, then my cheque took FOREVER to arrive and by the time it did I was so infuriated that I demanded to know who was supervising these “poorly behaved children”. Having identified the adults “in charge”, I politely went and spoke with the boys teacher before leaving. I can’t say they seem to care but one teacher did go talk to them at any rate. I considered that it may not be my place – but cruelty tolerated is cruelty you are guilty of and that is that. I was so upset I was shaking by the time I left. What kind of school field trip dumps your kids off at a place where there is nothing for them to do – for hours!!!!! How educational. They were still there when our boat pulled out of port to return to Molyvos.
Outside of eating, there are about 2 shops to look through and a tiny church which was not open – so all of that took about 20 minutes to slowly browse through. I had a few more hours to kill. There was a nice enough beach, but the weather was not cooperating. So I went for a walk and a coffee and then another coffee and sort of sat around waiting for my boat. All in all, not a very inspiring day. I would have been better off renting a car and touring the area at my own pace.
<font color="green">Finally, A Car Rental! Sigri to Mandamous in One Whirlwind Day. </font>
I managed to rent an automatic transmission for only 35 Euros/day from the Avis in Molyvos. This same Avis agent called an associate on Chios for me who in turn managed to “find” an automatic for me on Chios too (at the same price) – literally the guy had one brought to Chios for me. I am very grateful to the Avis gentleman on Molyvos and so I am happy to mention him here. What an outstanding price. Be forewarned however, it was the ONLY automatic anyone had in Molyvos – that one car. I was only able to get it for one day even in the off-season – so if you want an automatic consider booking in advance. I can’t explain the exhilaration of having a car after 2 month of taking the bus. The freedom, the joy – it was fantastic and much easier than I expected. One thing about Greece though is the roads go through small towns – they don’t circumnavigate them as they do in Canada. In Canada your diverted off the main road to get to small towns 9 times out of 10. In Greek you must drive through them – which I found hair-raising at times. Thank goodness I went with an automatic, because I think I would have caused an accident trying to navigate the tiny little cobblestone streets with a standard. Though my friend gave me a few lessons before I left home in her standard, I just wasn’t comfortable and I can’t imagine how I would have managed. In some of the mountain villages (most actually), the road wasn’t wide enough to pass other cars, so it was all reversing up hill, down hill, twisty-turning – all in front of an audience of course. Stressful in an automatic, never mind in an unfamiliar standard. Otherwise driving was great. Signs are in English for the most part so it is easy to get around.
<font color="purple">First stop of the day: The Petrified Forest by Esseros.</font>
I had a passing interest in this site so I made a bee-line for it first thing in the morning as I didn’t know the opening hours. It is a pretty sight if nothing else. As you move westward the scenery becomes more and more craggy and desert like. Barren rock and wheat colored grass dominated the scenery. I thought it was very pretty in its way and the petrified forest park offers visitors a lovely stroll through a nice valley. I can’t say I was too interested in the chunks of petrified wood. I sort of went wow, neat at the first one and that was enough. There was one small tour group viewing the site as well - I couldn’t have imagined a more boring tour (for myself personally). Their guide stopped at every tree for a lengthy explanation. Yikes. I left them in my dust and hit the trail. Happily there is a trail, because clearly there are snakes in Lesvos – I saw any number of dead ones on the highway and the terrain is of the type where you can imagine them all over. It made me nervous when the path narrowed and you found yourself in grass, but over all it was a clear dirt path and there were no snakes to report on my visit. I should mention that most of the snakes in Greece are harmless and not poisonous – I looked into it. At any rate, I didn’t linger too long at the site as I had lots I wanted to accomplish that day.
<font color="purple">Next Stop: Sigri</font>
Next, I headed for Sigri to visit its fortress and tour around its town. Sigri sits right on the coast with a fair number of whitewash styled buildings. The fortress was free (aka – not particularly tended too), so I took a brief look around. There wasn’t really much to do in Sigiri so I didn’t stay long. Reportedly there is a museum for the petrified forest, but as I mentioned I was not interested in museums at this point so I skipped it. Again, there was a beach – but the weather was too windy.
<font color="purple">Next Stop: Antissa and Things to Avoid Doing in a Rental Car</font>
Lordy, lordy. I am sooooo lucky I didn’t puncture a tire trying to find ancient Antissa. There are a number of things you should NOT do in a rental car. You should NOT:
1. Cross a river when there isn’t a bridge.
2. Continue on when the road disappears because you think it must start up again somewhere.
3. Drive rough-shot over pointy rocks and gravel in the middle of nowhere, when you technically have never changed a flat in your life (though you’ve heard, theoretically it can be done).
I will definitely consider this advice in the future. Of course there are no guarantees. I think, though I am not positive, that finally found ancient Antissa. I think, though I am not positive, that it was a big pile of rubble and weeds down on the coast. Feeling harried after 2 hours of looking for it, I failed to get out of my car to appreciate it further. What I did find was a spectacular deserted beach. It was the type of beach you see on tv – big waves crashing down upon a soft white sand beach. I was pretty dejected that I couldn’t go swimming, but the find almost made the drive worthwhile. Almost. In addition I caught a fleeting glimpse at a giant crane of some sort – we startled each other and he flew over me while I grappled with my camera. I got a great shot of the sky – but no bird.
I am not done, I will be back. Time for lunch though
After this short break – Kalloni and Mandamous.
<font color="green">Beach Weather?</font>
I learned one or two surprising things about myself on this trip. One of the most surprising being that I am a beach person. A beach person - me. It’s so surprising. I gave no thought to beaches when I planned my itinerary. I vaguely assumed that it would be too cold to swim in April, but figured it would improve quickly in May and June. I was a little off the mark. The water was too cold for swimming in April but it only started to improve in <italic>late</italic> May. Even then it was only for the hardy – by mid June I thought the water was fine, but then I had been trying to swim since April so I was accustomed to really frigid water. I will say that it is getting in the water that hurts – once your in the temp improves quickly. Judging by the number of other swimmers though, clearly not many of us managed to get past the initial shock.
In May however, the water temp really bothered me. It’s hot outside, so you want to swim, but then the water is cold and/or the wind picks up and is immediately discouraging. Also, nobody else is in the water so you sort of stand out – which I also don’t enjoy. Once I arrived on Santorini and found myself surrounded by inviting shores, all I wanted to do was go to the beach and became obsessed with it over the next two months. As such I don’t think I would return to shore-lined Greece before mid May in the future. If you think you may have this problem lurking in your psyche, and you are heading to Greece in the spring, consider central Greece and Macedonia first, moving toward the islands and coast last in hopes of warmer water. It turns out I would sacrifice a few more crowds for swimming weather and a more inviting water temperature. It is something to seriously consider.
<font color="green">Eftoulu</font>
I managed to swim in Lesvos thank goodness and there were even a few others braving the water temperature. I couldn’t help myself. There is a marvelous pebble beach in Eftoulu, over by the heated bath house. Walk beyond that igloo looking structure and you can stop for a swim or sunbath in any of the coves that are tucked away along the shoreline. Parents be forewarned: some nude bathers at far end and the water is deep (which I like for myself). The beach at Eftoulu is 5 kms northeast of Molyvos - you can walk or bike (hills people, hills). I spent an entire day just lounging around on the warm stones working on my sunburn. My dermatologist would balk. It was delightful.
<font color="green">Day Trip to Skala Sikaminias: Teenagers Are Annoying in Every Countary.</font>
I could have done without this trip. Skala Sikaminias is a tiny, tiny fishing village northeast of Molyvos. I did a boat excursion for 10 Euros through my hotels travel agency. The boat ride was nice – or rather it would have been nice if the dark clouds and ferocious wind hadn’t kicked in. The weather cleared a bit by the time we got to Skala Sikaminias itself – visibility was certainly good enough that we could see the plague..I mean hoarde…I mean group of junior high-school aged children that had descended on the place. My eyes involuntarily rolled skyward. With good reason though. We docked and got a better look at this group and realized there were at least 4 bus loads of kids running around – not a teacher or planned activity in sight. The boat was scheduled to pick up back up in 5 hours, so I set off in search of lunch and something to do. Lunch was a bothersome affair. Stuck next to a group of snotty, ill-behaved teenage boys I contemplated that this day-trip was maybe not have been the best of ideas. These boys kept luring in cats by offering them food, only to kick them and pick them up by their tales. It was disgusting. I asked them to stop in broken irritated Greek. Of course they though that was hysterical. To add to the issue, the restaurant was packed and my dinner took forever to arrive, then my cheque took FOREVER to arrive and by the time it did I was so infuriated that I demanded to know who was supervising these “poorly behaved children”. Having identified the adults “in charge”, I politely went and spoke with the boys teacher before leaving. I can’t say they seem to care but one teacher did go talk to them at any rate. I considered that it may not be my place – but cruelty tolerated is cruelty you are guilty of and that is that. I was so upset I was shaking by the time I left. What kind of school field trip dumps your kids off at a place where there is nothing for them to do – for hours!!!!! How educational. They were still there when our boat pulled out of port to return to Molyvos.
Outside of eating, there are about 2 shops to look through and a tiny church which was not open – so all of that took about 20 minutes to slowly browse through. I had a few more hours to kill. There was a nice enough beach, but the weather was not cooperating. So I went for a walk and a coffee and then another coffee and sort of sat around waiting for my boat. All in all, not a very inspiring day. I would have been better off renting a car and touring the area at my own pace.
<font color="green">Finally, A Car Rental! Sigri to Mandamous in One Whirlwind Day. </font>
I managed to rent an automatic transmission for only 35 Euros/day from the Avis in Molyvos. This same Avis agent called an associate on Chios for me who in turn managed to “find” an automatic for me on Chios too (at the same price) – literally the guy had one brought to Chios for me. I am very grateful to the Avis gentleman on Molyvos and so I am happy to mention him here. What an outstanding price. Be forewarned however, it was the ONLY automatic anyone had in Molyvos – that one car. I was only able to get it for one day even in the off-season – so if you want an automatic consider booking in advance. I can’t explain the exhilaration of having a car after 2 month of taking the bus. The freedom, the joy – it was fantastic and much easier than I expected. One thing about Greece though is the roads go through small towns – they don’t circumnavigate them as they do in Canada. In Canada your diverted off the main road to get to small towns 9 times out of 10. In Greek you must drive through them – which I found hair-raising at times. Thank goodness I went with an automatic, because I think I would have caused an accident trying to navigate the tiny little cobblestone streets with a standard. Though my friend gave me a few lessons before I left home in her standard, I just wasn’t comfortable and I can’t imagine how I would have managed. In some of the mountain villages (most actually), the road wasn’t wide enough to pass other cars, so it was all reversing up hill, down hill, twisty-turning – all in front of an audience of course. Stressful in an automatic, never mind in an unfamiliar standard. Otherwise driving was great. Signs are in English for the most part so it is easy to get around.
<font color="purple">First stop of the day: The Petrified Forest by Esseros.</font>
I had a passing interest in this site so I made a bee-line for it first thing in the morning as I didn’t know the opening hours. It is a pretty sight if nothing else. As you move westward the scenery becomes more and more craggy and desert like. Barren rock and wheat colored grass dominated the scenery. I thought it was very pretty in its way and the petrified forest park offers visitors a lovely stroll through a nice valley. I can’t say I was too interested in the chunks of petrified wood. I sort of went wow, neat at the first one and that was enough. There was one small tour group viewing the site as well - I couldn’t have imagined a more boring tour (for myself personally). Their guide stopped at every tree for a lengthy explanation. Yikes. I left them in my dust and hit the trail. Happily there is a trail, because clearly there are snakes in Lesvos – I saw any number of dead ones on the highway and the terrain is of the type where you can imagine them all over. It made me nervous when the path narrowed and you found yourself in grass, but over all it was a clear dirt path and there were no snakes to report on my visit. I should mention that most of the snakes in Greece are harmless and not poisonous – I looked into it. At any rate, I didn’t linger too long at the site as I had lots I wanted to accomplish that day.
<font color="purple">Next Stop: Sigri</font>
Next, I headed for Sigri to visit its fortress and tour around its town. Sigri sits right on the coast with a fair number of whitewash styled buildings. The fortress was free (aka – not particularly tended too), so I took a brief look around. There wasn’t really much to do in Sigiri so I didn’t stay long. Reportedly there is a museum for the petrified forest, but as I mentioned I was not interested in museums at this point so I skipped it. Again, there was a beach – but the weather was too windy.
<font color="purple">Next Stop: Antissa and Things to Avoid Doing in a Rental Car</font>
Lordy, lordy. I am sooooo lucky I didn’t puncture a tire trying to find ancient Antissa. There are a number of things you should NOT do in a rental car. You should NOT:
1. Cross a river when there isn’t a bridge.
2. Continue on when the road disappears because you think it must start up again somewhere.
3. Drive rough-shot over pointy rocks and gravel in the middle of nowhere, when you technically have never changed a flat in your life (though you’ve heard, theoretically it can be done).
I will definitely consider this advice in the future. Of course there are no guarantees. I think, though I am not positive, that finally found ancient Antissa. I think, though I am not positive, that it was a big pile of rubble and weeds down on the coast. Feeling harried after 2 hours of looking for it, I failed to get out of my car to appreciate it further. What I did find was a spectacular deserted beach. It was the type of beach you see on tv – big waves crashing down upon a soft white sand beach. I was pretty dejected that I couldn’t go swimming, but the find almost made the drive worthwhile. Almost. In addition I caught a fleeting glimpse at a giant crane of some sort – we startled each other and he flew over me while I grappled with my camera. I got a great shot of the sky – but no bird.
I am not done, I will be back. Time for lunch though
After this short break – Kalloni and Mandamous.
Jul 15th, 2006, 10:15 AM
#59
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Hi murphy!
Fantastic two installments
LOL at your "Rental Car No-No List"! After experiencing numerous car rentals with DH as the driver, I have to add:
Do NOT feel the need to "test" the car's limits by seeking out every curb in sight to hop
Your bike ride sounds just magical. I'll have to seek that out when we make it to the Greek Islands some day. Of course the last time I rode a bike I had an unfortunate mishap involving me flying over the handlebars and a rather painful visit to the dentist. Do they have helmets?
Fantastic two installments
LOL at your "Rental Car No-No List"! After experiencing numerous car rentals with DH as the driver, I have to add:
Do NOT feel the need to "test" the car's limits by seeking out every curb in sight to hop
Your bike ride sounds just magical. I'll have to seek that out when we make it to the Greek Islands some day. Of course the last time I rode a bike I had an unfortunate mishap involving me flying over the handlebars and a rather painful visit to the dentist. Do they have helmets?
Jul 15th, 2006, 11:00 AM
#60
Join Date: Feb 2006
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I just came across your trip report, Murphy. What a fun read! I rarely laugh out loud, but the motorized bike rental did it for me. Now I'll have to go read France and look at your pictures, and where will my day have gone?
