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Murano - Best way to see glass-blowing?
I've heard about all the people in St. Mark's square "hawking" trips out to Murano to see glass-blowing factories. Is this really the best way to go?
Any suggestions? I think my cousin would like to do it; we just don't want to feel like cattle, if you know what I mean. :) Thanks for any/all suggestions/comments. |
I've seen glass blowers all over Europe, including in Murano. I don't get the big deal. They heat the glass, they blow it into shapes, it hardens into stuff you want to buy. Big deal. It's all over Europe. I wouldn't make a special trip out to Murano for it. Especially if your time in Venice is limited.
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There’s an awful lot of glass in Venice. Correspondingly, there is a lot of awful glass in Venice. If you want to see the stuff being made, than taking yourself to Murano is a good idea – but if you take up an offer from the guys hanging around San Marco, you will certainly experience a hard sell. It’s a fifteen minute ride on a vaporetto from Fondamenta Nuove.
Places that are producing really high end glass (say about 100 euro for a single glass) are Moretti and Venini. Both glass makers are represented in museums – I know that Venini is represented in the Metropolitan Museum of Modern Art in NY - so you’d see some good stuff being made – if you can get access to their work shops. On Murano, look for signs saying “fornace” – that indicates a workshop open to visitors. |
We found that most fornaci were hard at work in the morning and really quiet in the afternoon, so I would get to Murano as early as you can.
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Murano is glass and glass blowing, Burano is exceptionally colorful houses(reds, yellows, blues, pinks, greens etc)..take yer pick. (45 minute ride to the latter..worth the time in my opinion)
stu |
I thinks it's the best way
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Some of the larger glass showrooms on Murano have a small demonstration area where they have one "piazza" (glass blowing station run by a master glass blower) to do smaller, single objects like a vase, which are enjoyable, and the hard sell is limited, as you can just walk out.
In order to get to one of the "serious" name glass blowing workshops, which generally are not open to the public, you need to know someone, or make a large purchase, at which point they may consider bringing you to the workshop as a "reward". |
The problem with the tours is not so much the cattle issue; it's the high-pressure issue. Once the glass-blowing demo is over, they'll usually stick you with a sales person trying to sell you an expensive piece. Just say "no thank you" and walk out the door.
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Well, just having seen a demonstration of the craft, it would be nice to buy something. It doesn't have to be an expensive piece, just a little support in Murano's battle against the flood of Chinese glass being sold throughout Venice and even on Murano.
http://www.thevenetianclub.co.uk/ind...=93&Itemid=114 If you want to buy a piece, look for this trademark to insure it is truly Murano-made: http://www.ferromurano.it/yalosmuran...demark_gb.html |
More than 20 years ago w experienced a delightful glass demonstration by accident. We were wandering the backstreets of Murano and came upon a large open window to a fornace. The window gave a reasonable view of the glass workers at their tasks. We stood at the window for more than half an hour watching them make the same item over and over--a decorative vase with a splayed look achieved by careful cutting and spinning. We enjoyed watched the dance of the workers, five different men each with his own task in forming the vase. One pulled the glass from the furnace, then next did some preliminary forming, the next did some cut and more forming, the next the final moves, the last handling the vase for cooling . . . each receiving the next piece of glass as they finished the previous one. We enjoyed this tremendously, seeing how a glass factory really works. The workers paid no mind to us, but we kept our place quietly and respectfully without taking photos. I'm not sure that one could find such an open window any more, but exploring a back alley may yield such an experience rather than staying on the main streets.
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most hotel front desks offer "free trips to Murano with glass-blowing demonstrations." If you have the time and interest, fine. A small boat will transport you pretty quickly to Murano. You will be directed into a factory to watch the demonstration. You will be encouraged to visit the showroom. You can leave when you like. I don't find that much sales pressure, not compared to other cities I've visited.
Most factory showrooms offer "serious" glass objects; a few of them have small souvenirs as well. The main street of Murano "Glass Street" has one shop after another, most offering souvenir items. Some have signs in the windows assuring customers that their glass items are made in Murano and not in China or elsewhere. Murano has a couple of churches well worth visiting, and a Museum of Glass. You can spend 2-3 hours on Murano, and then get a vaporetto boat back to Venice on your own but you will have used half a day. If the above doesn't interest you or the time is short, there is plenty of browsing and shopping to be had in Venice proper. |
Thanks all for your input.
I was in Venice last spring and did go to Murano. Saw the glass museum and Santi Maria e Donato. We pretty much just wandered the streets and shops. I did buy a small vase in one shop, that looked like it would go well with two other pieces I have. I have a desire to go back to the glass museum, or visit an "old" factory, as my sister has two pieces of Venetian glass that my aunt left to her. I cannot find anything similar anywhere. These pieces are "crackle" glass, a vase and a pitcher. I have detailed pictures of them (my sister happens to have spent some time as a museum cataloguer, and boy did that pay off!) :) We think my aunt purchased them in Venice in the 50's. (She taught school at an American base in Italy for 2 years). Anyway, figured if I was going back, it would be nice to see. And my cousin has never seen anyone blowing glass. I am fortunate enough to have seen the glass blowers working at the Waterford crystal factory in Ireland. Found it fascinating. Thanks, again, friends. I think we'll head out there on our own and play it by ear. |
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