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-   -   Munich and....??? (https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/munich-and-1489625/)

Stephy Oct 15th, 2017 06:14 AM

Munich and....???
 
My husband and I are planning on going to Oktoberfest in Munich in 2018 with some family and friends. We don't have set dates yet as some family members are waiting to book on miles. I have been trying to do some searching on what we would like to do. I think we are planning on spending two days in the festival with our friends and then we are breaking off and exploring Munich and I would like to visit Dachau, neuschwanstein castle, zugspitze....we usually like to do one thing a day and then explore the city and restaruants/bars. I'm thinking we will be in Munich for at least a week. I think we are planning on being in Europe for at least 10 days (we can be a bit flexible). We wanted to go somewhere from Munich as well and try to get another location in but we are a bit stuck on where to head next. People have suggested Prague, Salzburg (Hallstatt), Vienna, etc...I've watched some travel shows on these places, but not sure they call to me or my husband. I have only been to Europe once, Italy, and I think I'm having a hard time comparing expectations to that trip. I have watched info on the Mosel River Valley and that seems appealing to me (Burg Eltz looks amazing), but not so much my husband....(he is also not being decisive but says he will go wherever). Amsterdam is appealing I think because of the bike culture and history (Anne Frank). I seem to be drawn to historical sites, ruins, national parks, etc. My husband has mentioned Lake como after Munich as well.
I guess I am looking for advice on if our Munich portion seems on track with what to see and do there? Is it easy to travel by train to other sites farther away (Amsterdam or Lake Como)? Or is it a better use of time to explore more of Bavaria? By train or car?
I know this probably seems scattered but would appreciate some advice.

Fussgaenger Oct 15th, 2017 07:24 AM

Amsterdam is about 8 train hours from Munich. A group like yours probably should not be planning long-distance ground travel like this with just 10 days, especially if you must return to fly out of MUC.

"I seem to be drawn to historical sites..."

Germany has many, many good ones. However, American travelers tend to base destination decisions not on European culture and history, but on their own country's cultural/historical connections with Germany and on the German stereotypes they've acquired through Hollywood. WW II and Disney tend to figure a bit too prominently in our itineraries, IMO. (Lots of us go to Salzburg because Julie Andrews made a huge splash there, of all things.)

So the specific places that have called to you may be somewhat suspect. It's not wrong to visit some of the ones you mention, but I would just suggest that you be a little choosy and leave some room in your itinerary for places that you know nothing about and which may not call to you right now at all... do a bit more research and see what turns up.

Burg Eltz is pretty fantastic - you'd spend about 4.5 - 5.0 hours reaching the Rhine/Mosel area by train, certainly more doable than A'dam. And of course there's much more in that region as well - other medieval castles, a developed wine culture, old-world towns like Cochem and Bernkastel, and ROMAN history in Trier, for example. But I wouldn't want to travel much further than that from Munich.

Cochem: http://www.der-takt.de/typo3temp/_pr...087e83a8d1.jpg

Bernkastel: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikiped...astel_BW_2.JPG

Much closer to Munich would be the region of Franconia in Northern Bavaria - Nuremberg, Bamberg, and Bad Windsheim, and Iphofen, among other towns:

Bamberg: UNESCO World Heritage town, major beer culture
http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/624
https://en.bamberg.info/sehenswertes/

Nuremberg:
http://media.belocal.de/120712/1152x768_0,0c.jpg
http://tourismus.nuernberg.de/en/dis...s-of-interest/


Bad Windsheim: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attracti...a_Bavaria.html

Iphofen:
http://tramino.s3.amazonaws.com/s/ip...en-english.pdf

Iphofen photos: http://www.stadtbild-deutschland.org...1508ec59c864be

kja Oct 15th, 2017 08:35 AM

Much as I love Prague and Vienna, you might want to give them more time than you have for this trip. In contrast, I would think Salzburg a nice companion to Munich for the time you have. No car would be needed.

fourfortravel Oct 15th, 2017 09:35 PM

With ~10 days, I too would concentrate on Bavaria, Salzburg, and the Salzkammergut. Late September can be a lovely time in the area. In addition to historical sites and the usual tourism, many harvest/wine festivals are taking place; and there are quite a few Almabtrieb worth seeing, too. For Munich and Salzburg a car would not be necessary; for day trip flexibility, however, you may want to rent a car.

sssteve Oct 16th, 2017 01:10 AM

There are so many beautiful places to visit in southern Germany within driving distance of Munich.
In 2014, we spent about 12 days visiting Munich and other places in southern Germany.
Here is the web page describing that trip.

Maybe it will give you some ideas:

http://www.travel.stv77.com/germany/germany.htm

Dukey1 Oct 16th, 2017 03:12 AM

As soon as you know definite dates, START looking for hotel or other accommodations in Munich (assuming you want to stay IN town). Yes, hotels book up a year in advance in some cases so be aware.

4sammy234 Oct 16th, 2017 06:11 AM

Early Oct in Munich is wonderful! We were there for about 5 days total. Must have been right after Oktoberfest. It was a wonderful trip! We spent a day Fussen touring Neuschwanstein, a day at Garmisch-Partenkirchen, a day at Dachau, and we rented bikes one day and biked through the Englischer Garden. If we'd had another day we would have added in Salzburg or Eagle's Nest. Dachau is about a half day total.

Don't miss Garmisch! In addition to the Olympic Ski Stadium and the jump slopes (fun hike around up there) the Partnach Gorge is a great hike.

I know a lot of people on here have different opinions, and that's part of what's great about Fodors. For me, personally - I can't go to Europe several times a year so spending 10 days in one location doesn't appeal to me. I was fine with 5 days in Munich / Bavaria. I would add Salzburg as a day trip (it is all really easy on the trains).

It sounds like you are splitting off with the family and it will just be you and your husband after Munich - if that's the case - I would go with another location entirely. I vote for Amsterdam but with a 8-hour train trip between the two cities, would consider flying. Or what do you think about Paris ?

Underhill Oct 16th, 2017 07:21 AM

From Munich you could head down into Austria--Salzburg, of course, and the Salzkammergut.

PalenQ Oct 16th, 2017 08:39 AM

Is it easy to travel by train to other sites farther away (Amsterdam or Lake Como)?>

Yes long train rides -Mosel can have funky weather in October but wine harvest should be going on - I too would suggest dwelling on sites nearer to Munich - Salzburg yes a natural - Prague a fairly short bus ride - places you've dismissed however.

Why not fly to say Amsterdam and fly home from there? Amsterdam would fit most of your desires. Or go to Mosel for a few days and then a shorter train ride to Amsterdam.

Anyway for loads on trains check www.bahn.de/en - German Railways site; www.seat61.com; www.budgeteuropetravel.com (online European Planning & Rail Guide has lots on places to go by rail); www.ricksteves.com.

And yes Bavaria itself has plenty besides what you plan- Regensberg; Rothenburg; Nurnberg, etc.

tailsock Oct 16th, 2017 06:41 PM

Prague stuck out and would undoubtedly give you a unique experience. The architecture and views from various bridges and towers make it one of the most beautiful cities in Europe and you'll save some money by paying in crowns. One con is you're looking at 5 1/2 - 6 hours whether you take the train or bus so spending a night or two is highly advisable.

Fodorite018 Oct 17th, 2017 05:19 AM

We just got back from Germany/Austria a couple weeks ago. We spent 5 nights in Munich at the start, and one at the end. Our time there was perfect for us as it enabled us to do day trips as well as see the city itself. We did Dachau on a Sunday since shops were closed in Munich on that day. We also did a trip with Mike's Bike Tours out to Neuschwanstein which was a hit with our family. The bike ride is short, but really nice, and you go out to Swan Lake where you can see the castle behind you. While in Munich, we also took a day and rented bikes from Mike's again, and rode through the English Gardens for about 5 hours. There are several beer gardens in the park, so perfect for stops;) The BMW museum was also nice, but be warned it is really hot in there, so wear layers.

We had two weeks for our trip, so spent the rest of the time in Rothenburg and Salzburg. From Salzburg we went to the Eagle's Nest. We wished we had more time there to go to the salt mines and Halstatt (sp?).

Stephy Oct 19th, 2017 09:33 AM

Thank you all so much for your input and advice! Lots to consider! I didn't realize you could do a day trip to Nurenburg from Munich. Glad i'm starting to research this now! Once our travel companions have their dates I will look to book our hotel in Munich first as they book up fast like Dukey1 says. Can anyone recommend hotels in Munich that they liked? Are there "American" hotels vs "German" hotels? I don't think I'd want to stay at a Holiday Inn, unless it really just doesn't matter in Germany.

Trophywife007 Oct 19th, 2017 11:20 AM

Last year in Munich we stayed at the Platzl, which Dukey has previously recommended, and enjoyed it very much. The location is excellent for exploring the city center on foot. Definitely worth the splurge.

If you are into seeing other Ludwig II builds, check out Linderhof and Herrenchiemsee. Additionally there are two other places associated with him: Hohenschwangau located next to Neuschwanstein and Nymphenburg Palace located closer to the city center. The Residenz is in the center.

I also second the idea of staying in Garmisch-Partenkirchen. The mountains there are beautiful.

Enjoy your trip!

PalenQ Oct 19th, 2017 11:40 AM

and Mad Ludwig's tomb in St Michael's Church Munich - the least ostentatious Ludwig relic!

Use the bargain Bavarian Pass/Card for any day trips in Bavaria and also to Salzburg!

Fodorite018 Oct 19th, 2017 12:33 PM

We stayed atPension Lindner and it was perfect for us. Great location, comfortable room, great host who makes a fantastic breakfast spread, and good rates. We stayed there for 5 nights, then stayed at Hotel am Viktualienmarkt for our last night after we had traveled around. That hotel was good too, but a more modern feel to it. The host was really nice and arranged for breakfast for us before we left, which was before their regular hours. I would definitely recommend either one of these hotels

stilltravelingat62 Oct 27th, 2017 06:55 AM

sssteve: Wow, you did your research! I am just beginning to do mine so really appreciate your work. Thank you!

PalenQ Oct 27th, 2017 01:15 PM

Innsbruck is another possible day trip and not only a neat city but easy to take the hill-climbing tram into the hills and the 1964 Olympic ski jump area - a lush natural area.

Instead of day tripping to Garmisch-Partenkirchen why not base there for 3 days or so - easy to do day trip by train and bus to Neuschwanstein from there via a much prettier route than from Munich and to Mittenwald, Innsbruck, Oberammergau = Mad Ludwig's Linderhof. etc.

Plus much cheaper than Munich and more real family-run guesthouses.

Stephy Oct 29th, 2017 11:16 AM

It seems like there is a lot to see in this area and having Munich as a base. I think we are planning on 2 days for Oktoberfest and then another 4-5 to explore Munich and a few sites before moving on to another city. So many to choose from. Thank you all for advice on day drips and suggestions to other places!
I'm wondering if airbnb in Germany is a good idea for Munich? Has anyone used this service there? I'm sure prices are more during Oktoberfest too?

PalenQ Oct 29th, 2017 11:43 AM

You probably want to stay in Munich but also consider some town nearby with good train service as a base - could save a ton of money and be only a few minutes away.

Macross Oct 29th, 2017 11:57 AM

We did the fest and went to Nurnberg one day and back to the fest the next to give our liver and head a break. Audi has a factory tour between Munich and there in Ingolstadt. We had just done the BMW tour so skipped it. We have been twice to Oktoberfest and this year went to the festival in Stuttgart. It was not the same at all. We missed Oktoberfest. We have stayed in Munich and one year we were late getting reservations so stayed in Augsburg which I really liked. 30 minutes on the party train. If you go early and on a weekday no need for reservations before 4 in most tents. Hofbrau has a standing room only section with tables that need no reservations and they are the most entertaining. Augustiner fish tent will find you room at a table to eat and drink after 4. We love it.

PalenQ Oct 29th, 2017 12:42 PM

If you go early and on a weekday no need for reservations before 4 in most tents.>

Yes and I enjoyed hopping between tents to see the different atmospheres and bands. Even at night when tables are like to be full you can stand in each tent to get the flavor.

swandav2000 Oct 29th, 2017 09:01 PM

Hi Stephy,

I gave my nephew a trip to Germany this year, and he, rather late (June), told me he wanted to see the Oktoberfest. I scrambled for hotels, but I found a relatively reasonable hotel at Freising, outside of Munich near the airport. The trip into Munich took either 25 minutes using a regional train or 45 minutes using the UBahn (more stops...). So you may want to consider that.

Airbnb is illegal in Munich. Like Paris, Munich has a bad housing shortage, and it's illegal for folks to buy up & rent out apartments like hotel rooms. You can find legitimate apartments But -- of course the charges will also be higher for apartments during Oktoberfest ... everything costs more during Oktoberfest!

I live in Garmisch-Partenkirchen, south of Munich, so let us know if you'd like more information on some places to visit.

Have fun as you plan!

s

PalenQ Oct 30th, 2017 12:08 PM

Yeh Garmisch-P is a great place and great base as mentioned before - we stayed there and hopped to Oktoberfest but had seen Munich several times before so I think it nice to stay in or much nearer Munich than Garmisch (though just an hour away by train and dirt cheap with the Bavarian Ticket).

swandav2000 Oct 30th, 2017 08:33 PM

Well... more like 1h20 away.

s

PalenQ Oct 31st, 2017 11:14 AM

tsk tsk...20 more minutes! Anyway to far for someone who wants to see Munich for some days but perfect for someone just wanting to train into Octoberfest for a day or night - trains stop at secondary station very close to Festival Grounds.

swandav2000 Oct 31st, 2017 09:11 PM

Well... it is significant. To me, anyway. I take this trip somewhat often, and I would love for it to be 20 minutes shorter.

Pal, the train from Garmisch does NOT stop at a "secondary station very close to the Festival Grounds," and I believe I've already noted that on one of your posts. The trains from Garmisch stop at München-Pasing and then at the Hauptbahnhof.

The stop that is nearest the fest grounds is Theresienwiese. It's just one stop from the main station on the Ubahn, but would only be about 5-7 minutes to walk it. So it's quite easy to take the train to the main station and then to walk it. But the main station is obviously not a secondary station.

s

kja Oct 31st, 2017 10:29 PM

The difference between an hour and 1'20" would matter to me. And while I would do the research to confirm the actual time before making a decision, I would be frustrated if I made a choice based on inaccurate information provided on this forum. JMO.

PalenQ Nov 1st, 2017 11:20 AM

In any case G-P is too far to commute to Munich more than once - thanks for corrections but I did recall taking train to S-Bahn station just a stop west of Hauptbahnhof - Hacker Brucke or something - where tons of folks got off to walk to Octoberfest but now and thinking train was from Stuttgart not G-P. Swandav is of course always right as she lives in area and kja usually right - me well not always. Will try to do better!

kja Nov 1st, 2017 06:15 PM

I think PalenQ is, once again, being to kind to me -- but FWIW, when I post something factual (such as the length of time it takes to go from A to B), I usually try to confirm it beforehand, as I wouldn't trust my memory for that kind of detail. Of course, personal experiences and opinions are a different matter. ;-)

swandav2000 Nov 1st, 2017 09:04 PM

I do too -- just before I post the time length of a trip, I quickly verify it using DB. Two things make this necessary -- my memory SO often misfires (!), and trains are running faster & faster. Actually in my memory that trip was 1h40, but after verifying, it is 1h20. Feels like 1h40 though.

And Pal -- we do love your enthusiasm!

s

PalenQ Nov 2nd, 2017 05:13 AM

I usually speak in gneralities but slipped up - should have said about an hour and nothing else and Hauptbahnhof is a short enough walk from Festival Grounds.

Prost!

TPAYT Nov 2nd, 2017 06:14 AM

Bookmarking

Stephy Nov 2nd, 2017 06:14 AM

We do know that we are staying in Munich since we've never been, so G-P as a base is out. However I'd love to get down there to see the zugspitze (sp?). What I do want to know more about is this airbnb situation! Illegal? I'm confused b/c when looking online there are a lot of rooms/aparments listed on the site.....so if it's illegal wouldn't the authorities shut it down?

kja Nov 2nd, 2017 09:56 PM

@ PalenQ: Not to belabor the point, but really, saying it’s “about an hour” when it’s 1’20” is, IMO, misleading and unhelpful. Just one example: For me, a distance of an hour is the breakpoint for moving on (relocating) vs. a day trip – I know, from long experience, that if it’s more than an hour away, and in the direction I’m going, then I will actually spend LESS time if I relocate rather than take a day trip and have to backtrack. I know I’m unusual in my willingness to relocate, and I would never take anyone’s word for the time required (I research my trips rather obsessively), but why give people the wrong idea? Please consider either checking your facts brefore posting them or avoiding statements about factual information. I think the very valuable information you generously provide will be much better received if you don’t undermine your own credibility. It would be a shame if people stop reading your posts! JMO.

swandav2000 Nov 2nd, 2017 10:10 PM

Just as in Paris, the authorities are working on it. But government works rather more slowly than folks who want to make a quick buck. Some info:

https://www.citylab.com/equity/2016/...urists/482463/

You can go to this article, then select the text and use google's translate tools to translate it:

https://www.merkur.de/leben/wohnen/a...l-6650239.html

One paragraph, translated by google:

No. Although the rental of rooms on platforms such as Airbnb in the countryside in importance, but only in Munich, the misappropriation of housing by statute is prohibited, there were discussions in Regensburg and Fürth. Bavaria's Minister of the Interior, Joachim Herrmann (CSU), called on the municipalities at the beginning of July to follow the example and issue corresponding statutes.
Why is the Ministry of the Interior interfering in the debate?


***
So, the issues apparently are -- reporting of income, getting permission from the landlord, and respecting your neighbors.

s

PalenQ Nov 3rd, 2017 06:39 AM

It would be a shame if people stop reading your posts!<

I usually talk in generalities and will try to do that more and BTW it's not 1:20 GP to Munich but either 1:21 or 1:19! Hopefully one would reconfirm any info they receive online.


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