Montepulciano -- report on Al Poggiolo apartments
Mar 22nd, 2005, 05:28 PM
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Montepulciano -- report on Al Poggiolo apartments
As a down payment on a fuller trip report, here is an edited version of the report I sent to slowtrav.com:
Al Poggiolo apartments, Montepulciano:
These are 4 apartments in a large stone house attached to the family palazzo "about halfway up the hill" in Montepulciano.
Ours, number 4, was a two-storey unit with the kitchen and sitting room upstairs under a high beamed ceiling.
It has open views over the countryside and a private entrance from the street. Hence it could not be quieter or more private.
No pool but there is a handsome terraced garden, shared by all tenants. The flagstone patio and benches, stone steps and retaining walls must have cost a fortune. The garden is gated at one end -- far from the sitting area -- and guests may park there. This is a major plus for Montepulciano, in which parking space is severely limited.
Inside, the very successful renovation has preserved (or renewed) beams and stone stairs but with the addition of complete modern comfort: double-glazing throughout, efficient heating and boiler, total re-wiring, dishwasher, microwave, heated towel racks in the modern bathrooms.
Where new materials were required -- such as the Tuscan "cotto" floors -- faithful copies of old materials have been used.
Did I mention the handsome fireplace in the snug but well-lighted sitting room? Or the fine botanical pencil-sketches lining the walls? -- I deciphered a family member's name and the date 1905 on them.
The owners have also recently converted another building in an adjacent street; for these smaller studio apartments, the view is not quite so open. Still perfectly quiet, though.
The nearest restaurant was also our favourite and, we would argue, the finest dining in Montepulciano: Le Logge del Vignola (www.leloggedelvignola.it) is a very fine restaurant with attentive but not cloying service. It is 3 minutes away in via delle Erbe.
We had one big blow-out dinner there, then went back for lunch a few days later. Lunch is a good deal, as you can have two courses (with an amuse-gueule, plus house aperitif plus a glass of wine) for 18 Euros -- this is really a steal for a dinner-sized meal of high, high quality.
We also ate at simpler but still recommended places in Montichiello, Montefollonico and elsewhere in Montepulciano -- Trattoria Il Cacagno in Montepulciano; La Porta in Montichiello; 13 Gobbi in Montefollonico. All okay, none perfect.
BTW: We booked the apartment through the owners, at www.appartamentialpoggiolo.it
Note though that the website gives only their Montepulciano phone numbers and they are there only at weekends. One of the two sisters, Margherita, gladly gave me her Rome land-line number and I will pass it on: 06 6795251.
Margherita and Giorgio took us on a quick tour to see the main sights, on our arrival. They are highly civilized people -- that is my highest accolade -- who clearly love their town.
We paid 500 euros, their low season rate for 2 person occupancy. That is about 71 Euros per day. If you are questioning the wisdom of a March holiday: It was cold just before our arrival but by the end of the stay I was worried about sunburn, in the 70 degree (21 degree centigrade) sunshine.
Al Poggiolo apartments, Montepulciano:
These are 4 apartments in a large stone house attached to the family palazzo "about halfway up the hill" in Montepulciano.
Ours, number 4, was a two-storey unit with the kitchen and sitting room upstairs under a high beamed ceiling.
It has open views over the countryside and a private entrance from the street. Hence it could not be quieter or more private.
No pool but there is a handsome terraced garden, shared by all tenants. The flagstone patio and benches, stone steps and retaining walls must have cost a fortune. The garden is gated at one end -- far from the sitting area -- and guests may park there. This is a major plus for Montepulciano, in which parking space is severely limited.
Inside, the very successful renovation has preserved (or renewed) beams and stone stairs but with the addition of complete modern comfort: double-glazing throughout, efficient heating and boiler, total re-wiring, dishwasher, microwave, heated towel racks in the modern bathrooms.
Where new materials were required -- such as the Tuscan "cotto" floors -- faithful copies of old materials have been used.
Did I mention the handsome fireplace in the snug but well-lighted sitting room? Or the fine botanical pencil-sketches lining the walls? -- I deciphered a family member's name and the date 1905 on them.
The owners have also recently converted another building in an adjacent street; for these smaller studio apartments, the view is not quite so open. Still perfectly quiet, though.
The nearest restaurant was also our favourite and, we would argue, the finest dining in Montepulciano: Le Logge del Vignola (www.leloggedelvignola.it) is a very fine restaurant with attentive but not cloying service. It is 3 minutes away in via delle Erbe.
We had one big blow-out dinner there, then went back for lunch a few days later. Lunch is a good deal, as you can have two courses (with an amuse-gueule, plus house aperitif plus a glass of wine) for 18 Euros -- this is really a steal for a dinner-sized meal of high, high quality.
We also ate at simpler but still recommended places in Montichiello, Montefollonico and elsewhere in Montepulciano -- Trattoria Il Cacagno in Montepulciano; La Porta in Montichiello; 13 Gobbi in Montefollonico. All okay, none perfect.
BTW: We booked the apartment through the owners, at www.appartamentialpoggiolo.it
Note though that the website gives only their Montepulciano phone numbers and they are there only at weekends. One of the two sisters, Margherita, gladly gave me her Rome land-line number and I will pass it on: 06 6795251.
Margherita and Giorgio took us on a quick tour to see the main sights, on our arrival. They are highly civilized people -- that is my highest accolade -- who clearly love their town.
We paid 500 euros, their low season rate for 2 person occupancy. That is about 71 Euros per day. If you are questioning the wisdom of a March holiday: It was cold just before our arrival but by the end of the stay I was worried about sunburn, in the 70 degree (21 degree centigrade) sunshine.
Mar 23rd, 2005, 07:32 AM
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Tedgale,
Just stumbled upon this - thanks for your update. I've long thought this looked like a real gem from the reports here. I am glad you had a good experience!! When we go to Tuscany, I think this is the place for us.
Sally
Just stumbled upon this - thanks for your update. I've long thought this looked like a real gem from the reports here. I am glad you had a good experience!! When we go to Tuscany, I think this is the place for us.
Sally
Mar 23rd, 2005, 06:07 PM
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Tedgale: "The unedited version on slowtrav.com" Can you tell me please, exactly where on slowtravel your trip report is? There are so many places to visit there, I have become totally confused. Not difficult, I might add! Thanks, Shanart
Mar 23rd, 2005, 11:47 PM
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shanart: The reply I got from slowtrav indicated that posting may take several days as they edit/ spell-check/ censor only on weekends!
If you go to the homepage, click Italy in the header; click Vacation rental reviews on the page that comes up; then click SOUTHERN Tuscany for Montepulciano reviews.
I should appear there presently. But really, all the info I have given is presented here, just formatted differently.
Patrick: Yours was the apartment we had asked for but the water heater had just blown and was awaiting repairs. (German model; model has just changed; new part was being custom-milled -- if metal can be milled -- in Milan)
I asked the repairman to show us the flat and yes, the terrace and the view are excellent.
BTW: "Our" 2 apartments can be joined by opening a communicating door.
If you go to the homepage, click Italy in the header; click Vacation rental reviews on the page that comes up; then click SOUTHERN Tuscany for Montepulciano reviews.
I should appear there presently. But really, all the info I have given is presented here, just formatted differently.
Patrick: Yours was the apartment we had asked for but the water heater had just blown and was awaiting repairs. (German model; model has just changed; new part was being custom-milled -- if metal can be milled -- in Milan)
I asked the repairman to show us the flat and yes, the terrace and the view are excellent.
BTW: "Our" 2 apartments can be joined by opening a communicating door.
Mar 24th, 2005, 04:01 AM
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Ah, so that's where that locked door went!
By the way, I thought our apartment would have been perfect for a family. The second bedroom, which we didn't use except to store our suitcases had three beds, one which was a kid's dream, in a sort of loft of its own. And although there was only one full bathroom with nice shower, there was a second half bath with toilet and sink.
By the way, I thought our apartment would have been perfect for a family. The second bedroom, which we didn't use except to store our suitcases had three beds, one which was a kid's dream, in a sort of loft of its own. And although there was only one full bathroom with nice shower, there was a second half bath with toilet and sink.
Mar 24th, 2005, 03:02 PM
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I think I have an office colleague signed up already as a Poggiolo client; his family is looking for a Tuscan town holiday for the 1st 2 weeks of June.
I realized, BTW, that we would not have been as happy in a country place such as nearby La Foce, which we also considered.
We dine out and driving after dark is really not very pleasant and perhaps not very safe, either.
Too, in Montepulciano, you have every sort of shop and restaurant yet the silence and the views that you would expect to get only in the country.
And it really takes only 3 minutes to get out of town (Heading for Pienza, say) from Al Poggiolo, via S. Biagio -- though you do have to circumnavigate the lower town, if you are heading east or south.
I realized, BTW, that we would not have been as happy in a country place such as nearby La Foce, which we also considered.
We dine out and driving after dark is really not very pleasant and perhaps not very safe, either.
Too, in Montepulciano, you have every sort of shop and restaurant yet the silence and the views that you would expect to get only in the country.
And it really takes only 3 minutes to get out of town (Heading for Pienza, say) from Al Poggiolo, via S. Biagio -- though you do have to circumnavigate the lower town, if you are heading east or south.
Mar 24th, 2005, 05:15 PM
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Tedgale, you've expressed exactly what I labored long and hard to find and why I was delighted with Al Poggiolo. While many people yearn for a Tuscan countryside place in the "middle of nowhere", that is the LAST thing I want. I refuse to drive to and from dinner, especially when we drink a lot of wine (which we do). And having grown up in the country, there is nothing exciting about sitting out in the darkness of a country setting in the evening. I love being able to walk a few blocks to a choice of dinner spots, and after dinner to stroll the streets if I want. Meanwhile sitting on my back terrace -- I was facing off into the distance and I could have been in the countryside, if I didn't know what was on the other side of our door.
Mar 31st, 2005, 05:01 PM
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Colleague came to my office this morning, all excited.
On my suggestion he went to book Al Poggiolo apartment for 5: self and wife and baby plus his parents.
After discussion with owners he has rented 2 units (numbers 2 and 3) because the one unit they thought might be suitable was not available.
Owners offered them lower rate -- nearly a 20 percent discount, despite peak June dates -- for taking 2 units for the 2 weeks.
On my suggestion he went to book Al Poggiolo apartment for 5: self and wife and baby plus his parents.
After discussion with owners he has rented 2 units (numbers 2 and 3) because the one unit they thought might be suitable was not available.
Owners offered them lower rate -- nearly a 20 percent discount, despite peak June dates -- for taking 2 units for the 2 weeks.
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