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MlleFifi's week in Par(ad)is, with a side trip to Nancy

MlleFifi's week in Par(ad)is, with a side trip to Nancy

Jan 19th, 2009, 08:18 PM
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,037
I've finally had a chance to catch up with your report, Fifi, and it's wonderful. It's always so sad, going to bed on the last night.

Great cast for Raymonda. Dorothee Gilbert looks very tall! And I think that's Nicolas le Riche I see in your photos, I think he was doing Abderdan (or whatever the name is- brown velvet pants man) first cast with Gillot/Martinez (I've been on a Nicolas le Riche binge this past weekend)

I agree with you about the Waterlilies at the Orangerie, very pretty and soothing but they didn't excite me. Like you I also loved the Derains and Utrillos, and most especially the Soutines. I think the Soutines at the l'Orangerie are my favourite paintings ever. I don't know if you remember from my trip report last year, but kerouac is actually acquainted with Chaim Soutine's daughter. Small world.

Thanks for such a wonderful report, though you're leaving me heartsick for Paris.
Apres_Londee is offline  
Jan 20th, 2009, 03:05 AM
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Hi Apres,
Yes, that's le Riche, and he was marvelous in the role. The audience went wild during his curtain calls. On stage, Gilbert looked petite next to Gillot-- I think she just looked tall in that picture because she was closer to the camera.

I accidentally broke one of the photo links; the Ecole demonstrations photo is here:
http://images35.fotki.com/v1210/phot...B4845e1-vi.jpg The girl in the center looks like a miniature little Aurelie Dupont. I wish the students' names were shown on the program (only the class levels and teachers are listed).

Oh, after that thread about your screenname, I wanted to try the perfume but forgot to look for it in Paris!
MademoiselleFifi is offline  
Jan 20th, 2009, 03:07 AM
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Day 11-- Last moments

Sunday morning I bid au revoir (but not adieu to the apartment and take the #96 bus to my classmate L.'s place near Notre Dame. Scenic route through many major attractions-- Place des Vosges, Hotel de Ville, Chatelet, Palais de Justice, St Michel ... better than the expensive hop-on/off tourist buses in many cities. This is what I should have done Thursday when too exhausted to walk around! OK, "you told me so," in numerous Fodor threads about the advantages of buses, but from living in San Francisco and New York, I've had a phobia of them-- getting stuck in traffic slower than a crawl, not knowing where and what the next stop is (when it's too crowded to see street signs out the window), pissing off the driver when pulling the cord to early or too late, .... French buses are almost as easy as the metro. An electronic sign lights up to indicate the upcoming stops (only in Nancy and not Paris?), and the recorded announcement is loud and clear, not the incomprehensible mumble of MTA people.

At St. Michel, I get off and walk to L.'s apartment. Busy getting ready for her family's visit, she has kindly offered to keep my luggage while I indulge in just a little more flanerie.

Tourists who must have just arrived are leisurely taking photos and videos in front of Notre Dame. Local residents are out buying Christmas trees. I envy everyone who doesn't have to leave today, even the birds. One pigeon's profile looks just like the the Guimard ironwork on which he's perched.

Travelling mostly in cold weather, I've never had Berthillon ice cream. This time, having read so many strong opinions on Fodor's (both for and against), I'm curious to see for myself. (Amorino's available in other countries, so that can wait). Well, I don't know what flavors the detractors tried, but the pistachio is perfect.

After a whole week of photographing weird details like faucets and doorknobs, I should at least get a few more normal, typical "Paris" shots before leaving, and what's more so than the boats and bouquinistes along the Seine, with Notre Dame in the background.
Sadly, only a few of the bouquinistes are still selling old books and prints; many more are selling tacky souvenirs instead. I must buy something from one of the remaining real booksellers. The paperbacks are only 2,50 euros-- much cheaper than getting them shipped from Amazon.fr. I pick up Zazie dans le Metro and wish I had time to shop for a few more.

1pm-- time's up. Back to L.'s place to meet her grandchildren and pick up my luggage. In front of the Hotel Dieu, I realise with a shudder that with the RER, unlike the Roissybus or shuttle, there will be no final scenic tour. This is it. One last look back http://images45.fotki.com/v1423/phot...11B6679-vi.jpg , then down the stairs to the train to CDG.

The next morning, I am again on a crowded Metro, but instead of "...Arts et Metier, ...Rambuteau," I hear, in a less musical language, "...Queensboro Plaza, ...42nd St / Times Square." Back to reality.
MademoiselleFifi is offline  
Jan 20th, 2009, 06:08 AM
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MlleFifi - thank you again for this fantastic report. I am also not crazy about Monet's waterlilies. Perhaps I would feel different if I get to visit the museum alone without thousands of tourists wandering around and snapping photos.

I hope your mom will post her trip report!

When and where is your next trip?
yk is offline  
Jan 23rd, 2009, 02:20 PM
Join Date: Nov 2005
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Truly lovely trip report! Thank you for sharing your unique perspective.

I also hope your mother will share her trip with us. I'll be watching for it . . .
LCBoniti is offline  
Jan 24th, 2009, 01:15 PM
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>>>Gilbert looked petite next to Gillot<<<

Hi fifi, that was my mistake, I've never really seen Gillot other than publicity photos and short little clips, and I thought that was Gilbert in your first photo...it's Gillot who's the amazon! (I'm tall so I'm always interested when I see tall dancers)

>>>Back to reality<<<

I know the feeling, it's so sad

Count me in with those who would love to hear from your mom about her trip.
Apres_Londee is offline  
Jan 24th, 2009, 07:41 PM
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Ironically, not so long ago I was coming here annually as a tourist, and ending a NY trip then was just as sad as ending a Paris trip now; I envied the locals and fantasized about being able to drop by the Met Museum any time. How we start taking things for granted when caught up in the routine of work and normal life. My 2009 resolution is to keep my eyes more open every day, not just while on vacation.

Re tall dancers--
Have you seen Muriel Maffre? She was my favorite dancer at SFB. Such stage presence-- as Lilac in Sleeping Beauty, she could command the audience's full attention just standing in a corner.



The main reason I'm having such a bad case of travel-withdrawal right now is that I have no trips planned. Not sure "when", and have never been so indecisive about "where". Was hoping for Vienna (been at the top of my list for decades) in May, but that's not working out-- for a variety of reasons, Vienna has to be postponed again at least until late October, which also means no Thanksgiving in Paris for 2009

Just started a new job recently, so it's hard to schedule vacations. If I can get the time off, I'd like to still go somewhere with mom for one week in spring but will have very little time to plan. Considering Rome or somewhere in France (Bordeaux?), but I keep thinking we should take advantage of the low GBP and pick somewhere in the UK (Glasgow/Edinburgh?)
MademoiselleFifi is offline  
Jan 30th, 2009, 03:42 AM
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Zut, guess I won't be able to re-create Chartier's salad at home--

Bush War on Roquefort Raises a Stink in France: Departing Officials Set Duty at 300%
MademoiselleFifi is offline  
Jan 30th, 2009, 06:58 AM
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I think Vienna in October will be better than in May, no? I assume the concert halls and opera houses are dark by May?

I would love to go back to Vienna for another visit, even though we were *just* there in 2006. I got sick on the trip, so we lost a whole day of sightseeing time on our already short visit.

I also want to go back to the UK, like you said, because the pound is so cheap now. But I probably want to wait until late April or May when the weather is better. I have lots of FF, so perhaps I can get a free ticket there.

Here are a few Vienna trip reports that I've enjoyed (including my own, of course):

WillTravel (vienna in Nov 08)

amyb (Paris/Vienna April 08)

Mine (London/Vienna Nov 06)
yk is offline  
Feb 3rd, 2009, 07:06 AM
Join Date: Jan 2004
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Hi Fifi-

I was checking a few things online for Manhattan, and came across the Forbes Galleries.

They are having an exhibit on all things Hungary, including Art Nouveau ceramics.
yk is offline  

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