Michelin Green Guide ratings--Aquitaine, Dordogne, la Rochelle
Sep 15th, 2016, 11:21 AM
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Michelin Green Guide ratings--Aquitaine, Dordogne, la Rochelle
For our three week trip next month I am still trying to figure out a couple possible itineraries (they'll be weather dependent) between our arrival point in Bordeaux and our departure point in Toulouse. I have drawn an imaginary triangle with Archachon at the coast on the south and la Rochelle at the coast on the north and Toulouse as the three points. Then I took my Michelin Green Guides to these areas and made lists of how they rated places. This is how it ended up looking. Do you agree with these ratings? With the time we have available to us, should we strive to focus on these more highly rated places rather than the places that just got a * for "interesting"? Obviously, rating is subjective and a person/people created these ratings for Michelin, but I am wondering whether most people would agree with the Green Guides' ratings.
*** Highly Recommended
Bordeaux
La Rochelle
La Palmyre Zoo (this is the one *** that I'm quite certain we won't visit)
Dordogne Valley
Sarlat
Dordogne Lotoise Valley (a little east of my triangle)
Rocamadour (a little east of my triangle)
Peche Merle (a little east of my triangle)
Toulouse
Albi (a little east of my triangle)
** Recommended
Bordeaux and Aquitaine area
Bassin d’Arcachon
Arcachon
St. Emilion
Poitou-Charentes area
Rochefort
Royan
Saintes
Gironde Estuary
Angouleme
Dordogne/Perigord area
Brantome
Perigueux
Le Eyzies
Commarque
Lascaux
Eyrignac
Le Sarladais
La Roque GAgeac
Beynac et Cazenac
Marqueyssac
Domme
*** Highly Recommended
Bordeaux
La Rochelle
La Palmyre Zoo (this is the one *** that I'm quite certain we won't visit)
Dordogne Valley
Sarlat
Dordogne Lotoise Valley (a little east of my triangle)
Rocamadour (a little east of my triangle)
Peche Merle (a little east of my triangle)
Toulouse
Albi (a little east of my triangle)
** Recommended
Bordeaux and Aquitaine area
Bassin d’Arcachon
Arcachon
St. Emilion
Poitou-Charentes area
Rochefort
Royan
Saintes
Gironde Estuary
Angouleme
Dordogne/Perigord area
Brantome
Perigueux
Le Eyzies
Commarque
Lascaux
Eyrignac
Le Sarladais
La Roque GAgeac
Beynac et Cazenac
Marqueyssac
Domme
Sep 15th, 2016, 12:05 PM
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Generally speaking, I agree with the Green Guide ratings, and when someone says, "Should I really visit Granada/the Alhambra, is it worth my time"? Look at the Green Guide to see how it's rated, I reply.
Sep 15th, 2016, 01:25 PM
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Well, not that my opinions matter in the least, but I do live here and know these places intimately:
I hate Rocamadour
I hate St-Emilion even more
I don't like Angoulème
I've never even heard of La Palmyre Zoo
Brantôme is a big meh. The restaurant l"Abbaye is overrated.
What's "le Sarladais?" The whole area around Sarlat?
Eyrignac and Marquessac - fine if you like really well-tended gardens. I don't much care.
Commarque is incredible. Was just there a few weeks ago. Hardly anyone goes there, which makes it all the more amazing. The "game room" in the main building with the medieval games is one of the most fun things I've ever seen from that period. Involves lots of hiking and steep stairs.
Domme, apart from the view from the Esplanade, is a bit of a bore - a long, steep hillside full of cheap souvenir stores and expensive foie gras places.
The old quarter of Périgueux is fabulous.
Les Eyzies is a one-road town full of schlocky souvenir stores, but it has the best prehistory museum in Europe, and the exhibits at Le Pôle are fabulous (go see the Wildemann exhbit there through February).
La Roque-Gageac and Beynac are the classic riverside hill towns. Take a gabarre ride, then move on.
Lascaux should not be missed, and Montignac is a lovely town.
Michelin has clearly overlooked a LOT of gorgeous places, btw.
I hate Rocamadour
I hate St-Emilion even more
I don't like Angoulème
I've never even heard of La Palmyre Zoo
Brantôme is a big meh. The restaurant l"Abbaye is overrated.
What's "le Sarladais?" The whole area around Sarlat?
Eyrignac and Marquessac - fine if you like really well-tended gardens. I don't much care.
Commarque is incredible. Was just there a few weeks ago. Hardly anyone goes there, which makes it all the more amazing. The "game room" in the main building with the medieval games is one of the most fun things I've ever seen from that period. Involves lots of hiking and steep stairs.
Domme, apart from the view from the Esplanade, is a bit of a bore - a long, steep hillside full of cheap souvenir stores and expensive foie gras places.
The old quarter of Périgueux is fabulous.
Les Eyzies is a one-road town full of schlocky souvenir stores, but it has the best prehistory museum in Europe, and the exhibits at Le Pôle are fabulous (go see the Wildemann exhbit there through February).
La Roque-Gageac and Beynac are the classic riverside hill towns. Take a gabarre ride, then move on.
Lascaux should not be missed, and Montignac is a lovely town.
Michelin has clearly overlooked a LOT of gorgeous places, btw.
Sep 15th, 2016, 02:33 PM
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Brantôme is really nice:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/mksfca...282383670/show
to which I would add nearby Bourdeilles.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/mksfca...282383670/show
to which I would add nearby Bourdeilles.
Sep 15th, 2016, 02:34 PM
#5
Well, Michelin can't rate everything as 3-stars, but basically anything with 2 or 3 stars can be considered worth seeing. Some of them would be a "one time only" affair for a first timer. For example, Rocamadour is very impressive but it is quickly unbearable if you go in the height of tourist season. Last time I was there, it was fantastic because it was a warm and sunny November 1st, and I ate lunch on a terrace overlooking the valley with a friend. There were other people there since that date is a holiday, but it was not at all overcrowded.
Plenty of places with only one star in the green guide would still qualify as some people's favorites, but not everybody has unlimited time to find out. Just as an example, if you look at the Green Guide for Paris and the stars (or not) that it gives the sights, you could have endless arguments with just about anybody about things that were slighted or overrated.
Plenty of places with only one star in the green guide would still qualify as some people's favorites, but not everybody has unlimited time to find out. Just as an example, if you look at the Green Guide for Paris and the stars (or not) that it gives the sights, you could have endless arguments with just about anybody about things that were slighted or overrated.
Sep 15th, 2016, 04:25 PM
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Interesting replies--thanks much.
I especially appreciate the comments about over run with tourists, tourist schlok and non-stop shopping. I can put up with a bit of that but would not make a special visit to a place like that.
Obviously, there are lots of places that got one stars (maybe some of your favorites) that I didn't bother to list.
St. Cirq--I have no clue what le Sarledais is. On the map on the iunside cover the area is somewhat NE of Sarlat, but when I went to the index there was no listing for this. I assume it is the surrounding area.
"La Roque-Gageac and Beynac are the classic riverside hill towns. Take a gabarre ride, then move on." Will these still be available in mid-October?
I especially appreciate the comments about over run with tourists, tourist schlok and non-stop shopping. I can put up with a bit of that but would not make a special visit to a place like that.
Obviously, there are lots of places that got one stars (maybe some of your favorites) that I didn't bother to list.
St. Cirq--I have no clue what le Sarledais is. On the map on the iunside cover the area is somewhat NE of Sarlat, but when I went to the index there was no listing for this. I assume it is the surrounding area.
"La Roque-Gageac and Beynac are the classic riverside hill towns. Take a gabarre ride, then move on." Will these still be available in mid-October?
Sep 15th, 2016, 04:36 PM
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BTW, I remember that you asked for, and received, a tremendous amount of information before planning your 2015 trip to Sicily -- and then you decided to start more-or-less from scratch and just "wing it." Which is, of course, your right! I'm not objecting, just observing.
Same thing with Venice in 2013.
And you've asked about the Dordogne and nearby areas before.
You are, of course, free to ask whatever you want whenever you want -- but from my point of view, it would really help to know what iinformation you think we can give you that would actually help you make decisions. And honestly, I don't see how the questions you are asking would help to do that. JMO, and I could easily just be failing to see what seems clear to others....
Same thing with Venice in 2013.
And you've asked about the Dordogne and nearby areas before.
You are, of course, free to ask whatever you want whenever you want -- but from my point of view, it would really help to know what iinformation you think we can give you that would actually help you make decisions. And honestly, I don't see how the questions you are asking would help to do that. JMO, and I could easily just be failing to see what seems clear to others....
Sep 15th, 2016, 11:25 PM
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We are still in France with limited Internet (iPhone).
We were in Rocamandour last week. Got there at 9:45 & parked right by an entrance gate. Very few people in town & pics with nobody on the streets. Departed at 11 & still relatively few people.
Most of the 2 & 3 star attractions you mention are in the Dordogne region near Sarlat. Stay near Sarlat for several days, then move east to near St. Cere for a few days & then on to Albi & then Toulouse.
Stu Dudley
We were in Rocamandour last week. Got there at 9:45 & parked right by an entrance gate. Very few people in town & pics with nobody on the streets. Departed at 11 & still relatively few people.
Most of the 2 & 3 star attractions you mention are in the Dordogne region near Sarlat. Stay near Sarlat for several days, then move east to near St. Cere for a few days & then on to Albi & then Toulouse.
Stu Dudley
Sep 15th, 2016, 11:28 PM
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Good point, kja.
The boats on the Dordogne run when there's enough water in the river. We've been through a major drought here this summer, so right now there's no water. You'll have to wait and see.
The boats on the Dordogne run when there's enough water in the river. We've been through a major drought here this summer, so right now there's no water. You'll have to wait and see.
Sep 15th, 2016, 11:34 PM
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le Sarladais: https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Commun...s_du_Sarladais
Sep 16th, 2016, 06:02 AM
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Wow, kja! Either you've got a tremendous memory or you've spent a lot of time researching me! Yes, I got a lot of very helpful information here last fall prior to our trip to Sicily. It was very helpful, and I used it to tailor a trip that was perfect for us, not anyone else, us. And, if you will recall, afterward I wrote an extensive trip report that I hope others will benefit from.
Frankly, our Italy trip in 2013 was quite a while ago so I don't remember how many questions I asked. It must have been a lot since you mention it. To further enlighten you, you may want to bop over to the Asia forum because we have done several long Asia trips in the past years where I also asked lots of questions ahead of time and then wrote long trip reports on them too. By the way, we sometimes do like to do our own thing and not always what others do. We have now spent close to four months in India, and we haven't yet made it to the Taj Mahal.
The Venice portion of our 2013 trip was so nice (other than the weather) that we have considered returning for a month-long stay. That three week trip we had all booked except for the last five nights. Because of terrible weather (coldest May in Italy in 200 years), we were so glad that we could make our decision on the last part of the trip, at the last minute, based on where we could go that we would most likely see the sun and have some warm weather.
This trip is in October which means the possibility of gorgeous weather or pretty miserable weather. And, it is shoulder season so I don't need to worry about competing for reservations with hordes of other people for lodging. You have all helped me tremendously to make a generalized plan that I will use if weather is decent on the coasts. Right now I have booked my first 9 and last 3 nights.
I want to have a plan B in mind for my middle, unbooked 10 days in case there is cold, rainy, windy weather along the Atlantic coasts. Then, we won't do the Archachon basin, la Rochelle, Rochefort, adjacent iles etc. That is why I have asked questions.
Knowing things in advance like some places are really only one block long, there are gazillions of tacky souvenir shops, certain places are over rated, driving is hard if one wants to use a place as a base, water levels are low, places are super expensive, a place is truly worth it even if there are millions of tourists there etc. help me pull all the pieces together in formulating a plan.
BTW, count us in among the group of people who can dislike a Michelen (and everywhere else) *** rated attraction. We visited Carcassonne twice, thinkng perhaps our impressions from the first visit were influenced by the less than optimal weather. Didn't do a thing for us the second time around either.
Once again, thanks all. I won't know until we get home whether we'll spend a lot of time exploring the Dordogne region of just taste it for a few days in between our time on the coasts and Toulouse. I know this style of planning does not work for many people here, but it works for us.
Frankly, our Italy trip in 2013 was quite a while ago so I don't remember how many questions I asked. It must have been a lot since you mention it. To further enlighten you, you may want to bop over to the Asia forum because we have done several long Asia trips in the past years where I also asked lots of questions ahead of time and then wrote long trip reports on them too. By the way, we sometimes do like to do our own thing and not always what others do. We have now spent close to four months in India, and we haven't yet made it to the Taj Mahal.
The Venice portion of our 2013 trip was so nice (other than the weather) that we have considered returning for a month-long stay. That three week trip we had all booked except for the last five nights. Because of terrible weather (coldest May in Italy in 200 years), we were so glad that we could make our decision on the last part of the trip, at the last minute, based on where we could go that we would most likely see the sun and have some warm weather.
This trip is in October which means the possibility of gorgeous weather or pretty miserable weather. And, it is shoulder season so I don't need to worry about competing for reservations with hordes of other people for lodging. You have all helped me tremendously to make a generalized plan that I will use if weather is decent on the coasts. Right now I have booked my first 9 and last 3 nights.
I want to have a plan B in mind for my middle, unbooked 10 days in case there is cold, rainy, windy weather along the Atlantic coasts. Then, we won't do the Archachon basin, la Rochelle, Rochefort, adjacent iles etc. That is why I have asked questions.
Knowing things in advance like some places are really only one block long, there are gazillions of tacky souvenir shops, certain places are over rated, driving is hard if one wants to use a place as a base, water levels are low, places are super expensive, a place is truly worth it even if there are millions of tourists there etc. help me pull all the pieces together in formulating a plan.
BTW, count us in among the group of people who can dislike a Michelen (and everywhere else) *** rated attraction. We visited Carcassonne twice, thinkng perhaps our impressions from the first visit were influenced by the less than optimal weather. Didn't do a thing for us the second time around either.
Once again, thanks all. I won't know until we get home whether we'll spend a lot of time exploring the Dordogne region of just taste it for a few days in between our time on the coasts and Toulouse. I know this style of planning does not work for many people here, but it works for us.
Sep 16th, 2016, 05:46 PM
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No research, julies, just very clear memories of the frustration I felt when I, and so many others, were doing our best to answer your questions, only to find that you apparently weren’t getting the information you felt you needed. That’s why I asked if you could be any clearer about your needs when you post questions. But if you are getting what you need, then it’s all good.
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