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-   -   Metaxi mas: a Greek TR photo essay (https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/metaxi-mas-a-greek-tr-photo-essay-1699076/)

zebec Jul 31st, 2021 06:01 PM

Metaxi mas: a Greek TR photo essay
 
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In 2014, Mrs Z and I traveled to Greece. The trip was primarily a return to the isle of Folegandros, to gift some enlarged copies of portraits to the locals whom I'd once photographed there back in March '92. During this same 2014 trip, we also visited Athens, Patmos, Samos and Santorini. This long photo essay will start with a 25 shot overview of Athens. We'll throw in some Greek music throughout here, in order to break things up. Enjoy. *metaxi mas: 'between us'.
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Urban Athens: note ANTIFA in bottom right.
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Kallisperi street school: girls running wind sprints during phys ed class (Makrigianni district).
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...902e89373c.jpg
Anafiotika neighbourhood. Built by folks who came to Athens from the tiny island of Anafi in the Cyclades. Name means ''little Anafi'.
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Taverna sign in Psyrri district.
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Temple of Olympian Zeus.
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Have you seen this missing dog?
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Door grill at Benaki Museum, next to French embassy in Kolonaki district (superb gift shop). *will show some shots of its contents here later.
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Ironic shadow.
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Tweeners peer into pond at National Garden in Syntagma district.
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Trio of archaeologists at National Archaeology Museum use high tech. *will show some shots of its contents here later.
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Lovely lantern.
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The rippled marble path of the 'Iera Odos' Panathenaic Way beside the Parthenon. Like waves during sunrise.
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The Asklepeion cliffs area beneath the Acropolis. *more shots of the sacred site here later.
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Mythical masks---can you name them?
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Plaka chairs and tables.
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Not all history here is ancient. A pair of posters from the Greek Civil War of the late '40s.
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as above
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Athenian pizza delivery.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d234f6f50f.jpg
Metamorphosis church interior.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f3883617fc.jpg
Roof tiles.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...39dea7d6e7.jpg
Funky newsstand.
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Kaisariani Monastery, an underrated local site *more shots from this here later.
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Street art in the funky-boho Exarchia student district--protest central.
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Locals relax near the Beule Gate.
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End of part one. Time for music.

zebec Jul 31st, 2021 06:13 PM

The great Yannis Kotsiras has incredible range. He does pop, rock and folk all equally well. Here is an example of the latter, 'Manaki Mou'.
Sung like he meant it, yeah?


zebec Jul 31st, 2021 06:41 PM

And secondly, the equally great George Dalaras singing one of my all-time fave songs live, the traditional Cretan number 'Osso Varoun Ta Sidera' ('As long as the shutting door echoes'). I always imagine it sung by say, some innocent Cretan farmer who'd been rounded up in a Nazi reprisal, imprisoned and waiting to be hung. Famed travel writer Patrick Leigh Fermor once worked with Cretan resistance to kidnap a Nazi General then whisk him off in a Brit submarine. One imagines the subsequent reprisals and those waiting in their prison cells.
'As long as the shutting door echoes,
as long as the iron bars clash...'



zebec Jul 31st, 2021 06:51 PM

Bring on the clowns! Here is yet another attempt to find a link for that song which works, this time a more modern one. Fingers crossed. Again.
Listeners will melt when he begins to sing @ 0:49.

Adelaidean Aug 1st, 2021 01:15 AM

Always enjoy your photos, zebec.

HappyTrvlr Aug 1st, 2021 09:50 AM

Thanks for taking me back to Greece with your wonderful photos!

zebec Aug 2nd, 2021 09:10 PM

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A young soldier solemnly carried the national flag up to the Acropolis.
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He was part of a specialized morning ritual team.
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Their job was to raise the flag.
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The pavement catches sunrise.
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One of the best times to visit the Acropolis is right at sunrise opening. Extensive renos have been underway for years. Here we see harnessing at the base of a column.
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The Parthenon symbolizes the birthplace of democracy, a fact that has special meaning just now, yeah? Are those broken pediments at the top also symbolic?
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Powerful forces continue to distort democracy and
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try to twist it to meet their political ends.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6bc98b5ad3.jpg
That storm still is a long ways from clearing.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b6ed4859b4.jpg
But hope springs eternal, even during a pandemic.
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Archaeologists stand atop to discuss how best to maintain the Erechtheion porch and
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its substitute Caryatids sculptures (415 BC).
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c913e938cf.jpg
The local stonework reveals different materials, and maybe different epochs.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...87bd1378e2.jpg
Fluting and detail on shorter column.
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Tourists read about the hallowed monument.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...61d5bce761.jpg
The Parthenon's Doric columns have flawless form.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9428ebf3f9.jpg
This is thanks to cleverly-curved concave and convex features, all designed to create an optical illusion.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e22fbbb6f0.jpg
One of the 3D metope carvings, in this case a horse head.
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Wet marble section reveals interesting colours.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d5b86333e0.jpg
The Parthenon was dedicated to the goddess Athena.
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Visitors find differing degrees of restoration.
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This school is very close to the sacred site. The students will learn about the brave young men who once snuck up through a crack in the Acropolis wall during the occupation, to tear down the Nazi flag and replace it with their own.
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The newish Acropolis Museum.
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Same from afar.
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The museum reflecting its neighbour.
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Powerful high-tech tools aid the crews working the site.
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New replacement materials are sometimes necessary to
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complete restoration tasks.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d52df6e9fe.jpg
A table reflection.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...24695b7c1f.jpg
A whirlpool reflection.
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Framed image.
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A feline archaeologist.
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One of many views looking down from the top.
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Final view of the Acropolis, reflected in sunglasses. *Next: Santorini.

zebec Aug 3rd, 2021 09:56 AM

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Santorini soon come, but first a promised mish-mash of the Benaki museum, the National Archaeology museum, Kaisariani monastery, downtown et al. *The Greek god above looks EXACTLY like my cousin!
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2dd10f9fa5.jpg
Historic loom.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b2ce40eaf6.jpg
Ancient Roman portrait of Lucius Nikonagus, convicted in 37 BC of taking too many photos while traveling in Gaul.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...51f2d56e8e.jpg
Athenian bar scene.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ae5be97739.jpg
Public garden 'tunnel'.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4813c61498.jpg
Seen atop some Athenian roofs.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9a56097a9f.jpg
Archaeologist laying cable at Kaisariani Monastery. His team of attractive young assistants, male and female, all looked like they came straight from a modeling agency. We shared some good-natured joking about that and everyone had a laugh that sunrise.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9ede671cae.jpg
Wall detail from same.
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(from pamphlet) 'The Monastery lies in a verdant valley on the western slopes of Mt. Hymettus.'
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In our opinion, this monastery is one of Athen's underrated sites.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8ab6d6cb7f.jpg
Go early morn and you may just be alone there, except for the smoking hot archae...(sound of slap) OWW!!
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...21a97cfad8.jpg
Portrait painting of military hero.
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An ancient nation almost always at war. With itself.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c723af119d.jpg
Painting of nautical scene, a reminder of Greece's extensive islands and coastline.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...958260a31d.jpg
More maritime imagery, perhaps Piraeus?
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ef46b97c8a.jpg
Stylish downtown balcony garden.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cb014791d8.jpg
Exarchia street poster.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...92da629278.jpg
More urban street art.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1a75cfb224.jpg
Aghia Nikodinos church.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...296bc1c640.jpg
Detail of wooden door on same.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...390d4c1769.jpg
Ancient Egyptian hair comb.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...14f68b9e95.jpg
Ottoman parlour.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...aba2907aba.jpg
Stained glass window from same.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e8f9ebcfcc.jpg
Portrait of Greek boy.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0f638a98e2.jpg
Painted vase with faux ancient imagery.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cf8ecc4a60.jpg
Downtown street sign.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...47da28d94c.jpg
Modest downtown private vineyard.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...25ca6f623d.jpg
A Greek lime from a private downtown orchard..
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Urban church.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0666416f6e.jpg
Students wait to enter the Archaeology Museum.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...899b8b6f3a.jpg
Modern art installation.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d880966729.jpg
Ancient warrior, perhaps Achilles?
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2ab2f21864.jpg
Ancient Greek buttocks.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1393798c01.jpg
Ancient slaves lug warm water for someone's bath.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...aae393155a.jpg
Very young Roman boy.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...dfd263c273.jpg
Very young Roman girl holding prized pet bird.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...85a60d0be3.jpg
Lion statuary.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4b3e0df3e8.jpg
Bronze face.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9290e43461.jpg
African face (the young horse trainer).
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3fd3da1038.jpg
Shadow of mythical half-human, half-bird statue.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5b30eb0160.jpg
Lovely woman statue.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...eeb317b297.jpg
Peace.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8957e6d302.jpg
Gold cup.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...97f3b1c78c.jpg
Old bastard bets on dog fight.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0f93e1a656.jpg
Athena.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b400931089.jpg
Wrestlers.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e31fc4e478.jpg
One of the most ancient objects in the museum.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b82d9cc4ea.jpg
Another very old object.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2c508e0cc9.jpg
Downtown food market.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cc04badab8.jpg
Detail from same.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6f0b594f66.jpg
The museum had those Mycenean funeral masks (e.g. Alexander the Great's father, Philip of Macedon), but it also had this more comical one! *In addition, the museum had that strange bronze discovery mentioned by von Daniken in his Chariots of the Gods', a sort of mechanical 'computer' item that has puzzled many with its sophistication.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...29b251efeb.jpg
See you soon in Santorini.

dreamon Aug 3rd, 2021 11:02 PM

Thanks for sharing, Zebec, you have a wonderful eye for subject and composition. It's such a long time since we were in Greece but I remember it so vividly. It's a place that's hard to forget.

geetika Aug 4th, 2021 04:17 AM


Originally Posted by dreamon (Post 17269406)
Thanks for sharing, Zebec, you have a wonderful eye for subject and composition. It's such a long time since we were in Greece but I remember it so vividly. It's a place that's hard to forget.

I wholeheartedly agree, Zebec’s pictures are stunning and capture so many minute details and images the average person would miss! Thanks a ton for the pictorial and musical voyage, doubly welcome in these times…

plufmud Aug 5th, 2021 02:08 AM

Zebec,

Your photos and the short clips are wonderful and informative. We are traveling to Greece next month and your photos of the Kaisariani Monastery have inspired us to visit it.
Loved the story about the soldier in WW2. Thank you for sharing your photos!

zebec Aug 6th, 2021 10:01 AM

Time for some feminine touch in the music. This is Vicky Mosholiou. My Greek is weak---perhaps someone could translate the lyrics for us all?
I am done. The music

zebec Aug 6th, 2021 10:28 AM

And now another lady singer. Eleftheria Avarnataki singing her 'Skies kai Chromata (shadows and colors)'.

*dunno about you, but 'relational memory' gets me every time that I hear Greek music. Like Pavlov's dog, I immediately taste tzatziki in my mouth!


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