Merry Christmas and Bonjour from Paris 2008!
Jan 7th, 2009, 04:29 AM
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Merry Christmas and Bonjour from Paris 2008!
The AF flight from Boston to Paris was l-o-n-g but otherwise uneventful. It was a much different story for our return but that will come later...
We had booked online and were met by our driver from shuttle-inter.com (55 euros one way.) He was holding a sign with our name on it outside the exit right after you claim your luggage. The service was efficient and easy for two weary first time visitors.
As we drove into the city in the predawn light of Christmas morning we saw Notre Dame Cathedral off in the distance. Now we knew we were in Paris!
We arrived to our Paris apartment on 56 rue Bonaparte, Arrondissement 6 in St-Germain des Pres (www.parisianstay.com or http://www.vrbo.com/198104) that was just like the online pictures that I had looked at almost daily till we got there. We had a laptop provided during our stay with a French keyboard. It was hard to find punctuation and there was no qwerty setup! After our emails were sent to our family to tell them we had arrived we wanted to nap. We decided to fight the jetlag instead by going out to explore the city.
We had booked online and were met by our driver from shuttle-inter.com (55 euros one way.) He was holding a sign with our name on it outside the exit right after you claim your luggage. The service was efficient and easy for two weary first time visitors.
As we drove into the city in the predawn light of Christmas morning we saw Notre Dame Cathedral off in the distance. Now we knew we were in Paris!
We arrived to our Paris apartment on 56 rue Bonaparte, Arrondissement 6 in St-Germain des Pres (www.parisianstay.com or http://www.vrbo.com/198104) that was just like the online pictures that I had looked at almost daily till we got there. We had a laptop provided during our stay with a French keyboard. It was hard to find punctuation and there was no qwerty setup! After our emails were sent to our family to tell them we had arrived we wanted to nap. We decided to fight the jetlag instead by going out to explore the city.
Jan 7th, 2009, 07:43 AM
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We walked around the corner to a tavern that was open and had the petit dejunier special(10 e pp) of coffee, tea, a croissant, and warm, freshly buttered bread. Oh my, the bread was delicious! Forget the low fat diet and the whole grains. This was living! After breakfast we wandered toward the Seine and walked around the Tuileries Gardens and the Louvre. When we turned around, we whacked each other and exclaimed “Wow-there’s the Eiffel Tower!” We found our way to see the very modern designed holiday storefronts at Galeries Lafayette and Printemps. We went back to our apartment and tried to stay awake. I think I saw the back of my eyes for a bit! We decided to return to the same tavern for supper with a handy, pocket sized paperback copy of Herbach’s Eating and Drinking in Paris menu translator. We enjoyed a plat du jour of turkey for me and sole for the DH with a couple of beers for around $50e. The only difficulty we encountered that evening-partly because because of being overtired and not being as attentive as we should have been was that we were shortchanged $20 e. We didn’t realize it right away but we were more careful with our euros from that point on.
Jan 7th, 2009, 10:45 AM
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We woke up at 9 AM, much later than we expected. We were still getting used to the time
change. The day after Christmas was sunny, windy and very cold and we were glad to have layers of clothes to be a little more comfortable outdoors. This was the first time I tried Jobst black socks. They sure helped to keep my legs and feet warm.
We have always visited local grocery stores on our travels and the Monoprix was that and more. Food and champagne was right around the corner from our apartment! We were appreciative to the Fodorites who came to the rescue with our misadventure with what we thought was milk that we bought in the refrigerated section. Milk there was unrefrigerated. Goat’s milk was kept right next to cow’s milk. I was glad to see the pictures on the boxes when trying to decide what to buy.
We figured out how to use the metro that was steps away from the apartment. We bought the first of 3 carnets of tickets from the machine in the St.Germain metro station. Here you just use the rollbar near the bottom of the screen to select English instructions and it was very easy to use.
We traveled by metro to the Arc de Triomphe and then walked the famous Champs-Elysèees. DH enjoyed the showrooms for Peugot, Mercedes, Renault, and Toyota along the way. We took the metro to the Concorde station to go to the Orangerie Museum in the late afternoon. Lines weren’t long at all to get in. The six-foot walls of eight glorious Monet canvases from morning to sunset were beautifully displayed in two rooms. We enjoyed seeing some of Renoir and Picasso’s work, here, too. Crowds were at a minimum and getting around the museum was a breeze.
We couldn’t decide if we should call it a day and go back to our apartment but we were so close to the Louvre with evening opening hours and cheaper entrance prices that we decided to stay. We chose to have dinner at the Cafe Marly right at the museum. The young and friendly waiter translated the entire menu to English for us. I ordered steak, DH had ribs of lamb, and with drinks the total was just under $100e.
We entered the Louvre through the grand pyramid entrance at the central courtyard a little after 6 PM. Lines weren’t long at all then. But the crowds were indeed there for the Mona Lisa. People were at least 8 deep all the way across the ropes trying to get a glimpse or take a picture. Crowds were less when we saw the Winged Victory and Venus de Milo. When we left the museum later that evening we were tired but happy to accomplish what we did today.
change. The day after Christmas was sunny, windy and very cold and we were glad to have layers of clothes to be a little more comfortable outdoors. This was the first time I tried Jobst black socks. They sure helped to keep my legs and feet warm.
We have always visited local grocery stores on our travels and the Monoprix was that and more. Food and champagne was right around the corner from our apartment! We were appreciative to the Fodorites who came to the rescue with our misadventure with what we thought was milk that we bought in the refrigerated section. Milk there was unrefrigerated. Goat’s milk was kept right next to cow’s milk. I was glad to see the pictures on the boxes when trying to decide what to buy.
We figured out how to use the metro that was steps away from the apartment. We bought the first of 3 carnets of tickets from the machine in the St.Germain metro station. Here you just use the rollbar near the bottom of the screen to select English instructions and it was very easy to use.
We traveled by metro to the Arc de Triomphe and then walked the famous Champs-Elysèees. DH enjoyed the showrooms for Peugot, Mercedes, Renault, and Toyota along the way. We took the metro to the Concorde station to go to the Orangerie Museum in the late afternoon. Lines weren’t long at all to get in. The six-foot walls of eight glorious Monet canvases from morning to sunset were beautifully displayed in two rooms. We enjoyed seeing some of Renoir and Picasso’s work, here, too. Crowds were at a minimum and getting around the museum was a breeze.
We couldn’t decide if we should call it a day and go back to our apartment but we were so close to the Louvre with evening opening hours and cheaper entrance prices that we decided to stay. We chose to have dinner at the Cafe Marly right at the museum. The young and friendly waiter translated the entire menu to English for us. I ordered steak, DH had ribs of lamb, and with drinks the total was just under $100e.
We entered the Louvre through the grand pyramid entrance at the central courtyard a little after 6 PM. Lines weren’t long at all then. But the crowds were indeed there for the Mona Lisa. People were at least 8 deep all the way across the ropes trying to get a glimpse or take a picture. Crowds were less when we saw the Winged Victory and Venus de Milo. When we left the museum later that evening we were tired but happy to accomplish what we did today.
Jan 7th, 2009, 12:39 PM
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Day 3
We bought a 2 day museum pass when we were leaving the Orangerie Museum yesterday to use for the next two days. We cooked up breakfast around 9 and went to Notre Dame on the metro by way of the Cite metro stop. While there we used the museum pass to get a view of the crypts below Notre Dame. We walked behind the cathedral to go to the Deportation Memorial but it was closed.
We walked around Ile St.Louis and saw Berthillon but I was too cold to want ice cream. That's how cold it was. We went off to see St. Severin where the organ sure was a beauty! We stopped at St. Chappelle using the museum pass to see the 15 stained glass windows with over 1,110 scenes that was just amazing!
We used the museum pass again to get into the Conciergerie Museum. One benefit of the museum pass helps you to avoid waiting outside in lines on very cold days. We kept walking to the back through the bookstore to see where they kept prisoners before they took them by cart to the guillotine, including Marie Antoinette. They had rooms recreated with mannequins, sort of like a wax museum setting.
When we were ready to go home we walked through the lively Latin quarter to get back to our apartment. We had dinner. But the best part was the dessert that was a short walk away. You leave the apartment and walk straight to 21 rue Bonaparte. Now I have to express much gratitude to everyone on Fodors that wrote about Laduree and their mini-macaroons. That alone is worth a trip back to Paris!!! Skip the museums, skip the churches, but don’t skip the macaroons!
We bought a 2 day museum pass when we were leaving the Orangerie Museum yesterday to use for the next two days. We cooked up breakfast around 9 and went to Notre Dame on the metro by way of the Cite metro stop. While there we used the museum pass to get a view of the crypts below Notre Dame. We walked behind the cathedral to go to the Deportation Memorial but it was closed.
We walked around Ile St.Louis and saw Berthillon but I was too cold to want ice cream. That's how cold it was. We went off to see St. Severin where the organ sure was a beauty! We stopped at St. Chappelle using the museum pass to see the 15 stained glass windows with over 1,110 scenes that was just amazing!
We used the museum pass again to get into the Conciergerie Museum. One benefit of the museum pass helps you to avoid waiting outside in lines on very cold days. We kept walking to the back through the bookstore to see where they kept prisoners before they took them by cart to the guillotine, including Marie Antoinette. They had rooms recreated with mannequins, sort of like a wax museum setting.
When we were ready to go home we walked through the lively Latin quarter to get back to our apartment. We had dinner. But the best part was the dessert that was a short walk away. You leave the apartment and walk straight to 21 rue Bonaparte. Now I have to express much gratitude to everyone on Fodors that wrote about Laduree and their mini-macaroons. That alone is worth a trip back to Paris!!! Skip the museums, skip the churches, but don’t skip the macaroons!
Jan 8th, 2009, 03:20 AM
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Yes, there were many of you in Paris for Christmas.
I did that a few years back..from Dec 15 to the 30. This year we went on a short trip from Dec. 3 to 15.
I think we missed the worst weather..especially upon returning.
Enjoying reading all the reports.
I have just put together my restaurant list for my return mid April for a month.
Enjoy....will look to reading more.
Joan
I did that a few years back..from Dec 15 to the 30. This year we went on a short trip from Dec. 3 to 15.
I think we missed the worst weather..especially upon returning.
Enjoying reading all the reports.
I have just put together my restaurant list for my return mid April for a month.
Enjoy....will look to reading more.
Joan
Jan 8th, 2009, 03:49 PM
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Day 4
We were up at 7AM and ate a cereal that's from France. It was like eating a bowl of salt and sugar with a few grains and dried fruit thrown in for good measure. Very tasty!
We took the metro to the closest stop to the Orsay, the Solferino, to be there for when the doors opened. We used our museum pass to enter and headed right up to the top floor of the museum. There were no crowds then and the floor was full of the artwork I saw as a child from one of my Grandpa’s art books! Monet, Degas, Renoir, van Gogh...how exciting to see the pages of the book come alive! We had a quick enjoyable lunch at one of the cafes there for under $40e. We ordered open-faced ham and chicken sandwiches (tartines) with a bottle of wine.
That made for a pleasant walk to the Rodin Museum using the museum pass to see his statues inside the mansion and outside in the gardens.
Not far from there we walked to the gold dome of Les Invalides Church to see the beautifully ornate resting place for Napoleon and the rest of his family, using the museum pass once again. We picked up some bread (ohh the bread is sooo good!) and ended up back at the Monoprix for groceries and some drinks for dinner.
We were up at 7AM and ate a cereal that's from France. It was like eating a bowl of salt and sugar with a few grains and dried fruit thrown in for good measure. Very tasty!
We took the metro to the closest stop to the Orsay, the Solferino, to be there for when the doors opened. We used our museum pass to enter and headed right up to the top floor of the museum. There were no crowds then and the floor was full of the artwork I saw as a child from one of my Grandpa’s art books! Monet, Degas, Renoir, van Gogh...how exciting to see the pages of the book come alive! We had a quick enjoyable lunch at one of the cafes there for under $40e. We ordered open-faced ham and chicken sandwiches (tartines) with a bottle of wine.
That made for a pleasant walk to the Rodin Museum using the museum pass to see his statues inside the mansion and outside in the gardens.
Not far from there we walked to the gold dome of Les Invalides Church to see the beautifully ornate resting place for Napoleon and the rest of his family, using the museum pass once again. We picked up some bread (ohh the bread is sooo good!) and ended up back at the Monoprix for groceries and some drinks for dinner.
Jan 8th, 2009, 04:05 PM
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LC, You have a perfect reason to
return!
MomDD, I'm enjoying your trip report,too. We could of arranged a convention there if only we knew!
Oh, Joan-a month's visit in April! That sounds devine!
return!
MomDD, I'm enjoying your trip report,too. We could of arranged a convention there if only we knew!
Oh, Joan-a month's visit in April! That sounds devine!
Jan 9th, 2009, 09:19 AM
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wow-this has been great-at least 3 holidays in Paris trip reports...can't wait for my trip next year...
tc-must have been reallllllllyyy cold to forefo ice cream from Berthillion...
Lauduree Macaroons-yum-can't wait-I've read that Pierre Herme is pretty awesome now too-modern version?
I've been to Paris three tips...and just being there makes me weepy...or perhaps that's the first day jet lag...
love report
tc-must have been reallllllllyyy cold to forefo ice cream from Berthillion...
Lauduree Macaroons-yum-can't wait-I've read that Pierre Herme is pretty awesome now too-modern version?
I've been to Paris three tips...and just being there makes me weepy...or perhaps that's the first day jet lag...
love report
Jan 9th, 2009, 10:02 AM
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<i>The ice cream at Amorino on Rue de Buci is much better than Berthillion.</i>
So, since I think the vanilla at Berthillion is heaven I earth (but it's been years), I guess I have to make another trip to try Amorino!
So, since I think the vanilla at Berthillion is heaven I earth (but it's been years), I guess I have to make another trip to try Amorino!
Jan 9th, 2009, 04:06 PM
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Versailles Day 5
The forecast was for icy rain for a few hours in the morning but we decided to go see the castle at Versailles anyway. We figured maybe the stormy weather would discourage all but the diehard tourists. What were we thinking!?!
Armed with an umbrella we took the metro from St. Germain to St. Michel. We found our way to the RER C trains to buy the Passport at a ticket booth (38 E for 2) which included R/T transportation and admission to Versailles. We made sure we boarded a train with a V name on the front and rode it to the end of the line.
Leaving the train station you can go straight across the street then go right after you cross the street direct to the parking lot for the chateau.
The freezing rain glazed the cobbles in ice and the streets and parking lot were slippery! When we got to the entrance rumors were flying that Versailles would
be closed because of the icy conditions. Though the tour buses weren’t unloading, they weren’t leaving so we got in line anyways.
After about a half an hour a cheer rose from the crowd as we shuffled from side to side to make way for the sand trucks to get through the largest central gate. But the gates still didn’t open for the public. The crowd was growing and the crowd was restless.
When that central gate finally opened you would think the crowds were storming the palace. People were forcefully pushing, shoving and yelling once the gate finally opened. I was separated from my DH till we were pushed through the gates. It sure didn't leave a very good first impression.
The palace was indeed grand but the crowds of people were not. If this is what winter crowds are like, we can't imagine what the summer crowds must be like.
The freezing rain continued after our chateau tour. We saw some of the incredible gardens, even in winter. But when we continued to
slip and slide on the grounds we decided to skip the 30 minute walk to the Domaine de Marie Antoinette and head back to Paris. (Note to future first time travelers-when you ride the train to Versailles and back to Paris, remember to keep your train tickets handy. You need them at the turnstiles to exit the train station.)
Back in Paris the rain had turned to gently falling snow. We walked to the Bon Marche Department Store for some shopping and picked up sandwiches. We bought some more champagne and some delicious cheese. The bread, cheese and champagne we tried in Paris is some of the best we've ever had!
The forecast was for icy rain for a few hours in the morning but we decided to go see the castle at Versailles anyway. We figured maybe the stormy weather would discourage all but the diehard tourists. What were we thinking!?!
Armed with an umbrella we took the metro from St. Germain to St. Michel. We found our way to the RER C trains to buy the Passport at a ticket booth (38 E for 2) which included R/T transportation and admission to Versailles. We made sure we boarded a train with a V name on the front and rode it to the end of the line.
Leaving the train station you can go straight across the street then go right after you cross the street direct to the parking lot for the chateau.
The freezing rain glazed the cobbles in ice and the streets and parking lot were slippery! When we got to the entrance rumors were flying that Versailles would
be closed because of the icy conditions. Though the tour buses weren’t unloading, they weren’t leaving so we got in line anyways.
After about a half an hour a cheer rose from the crowd as we shuffled from side to side to make way for the sand trucks to get through the largest central gate. But the gates still didn’t open for the public. The crowd was growing and the crowd was restless.
When that central gate finally opened you would think the crowds were storming the palace. People were forcefully pushing, shoving and yelling once the gate finally opened. I was separated from my DH till we were pushed through the gates. It sure didn't leave a very good first impression.
The palace was indeed grand but the crowds of people were not. If this is what winter crowds are like, we can't imagine what the summer crowds must be like.
The freezing rain continued after our chateau tour. We saw some of the incredible gardens, even in winter. But when we continued to
slip and slide on the grounds we decided to skip the 30 minute walk to the Domaine de Marie Antoinette and head back to Paris. (Note to future first time travelers-when you ride the train to Versailles and back to Paris, remember to keep your train tickets handy. You need them at the turnstiles to exit the train station.)
Back in Paris the rain had turned to gently falling snow. We walked to the Bon Marche Department Store for some shopping and picked up sandwiches. We bought some more champagne and some delicious cheese. The bread, cheese and champagne we tried in Paris is some of the best we've ever had!
